CIHM 
Microfiche 
Series 
(IVIonographs) 


ICIVIH 

Collection  de 
microfiches 
(monographles) 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  IMicroraproductiont  /  inttitut  Canadian  da  microraproductiona  hittoriquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  technique  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  tc  obtain  the  best  original 
copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this  copy  which 
may  be  bibliographically  unique,  which  may  alter  any  of 
the  images  in  the  reproduction,  or  which  may 
significantly  change  the  usual  method  of  filming  are 
checked  below. 


n 
n 

D 

D 
D 
D 

D 

D 

D 

D 

D 


Coloured  covers  / 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged  / 
Couverture  endommagee 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
Couverture  restauree  et/ou  pelliculee 

Cover  title  missing  /  *  e  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps  /  Cartes  geographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)  / 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations  / 
Planches  et/ou  illustratk>ns  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material  / 
Reli^  avec  d'autres  documents 

Only  editk>n  available  / 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  Interior  margin  /  La  reliure  serr^e  peut 
causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la  distorsion  le  k>ng  de 
la  marge  intdrieurp. 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoratkxw  may  appear 
within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these  have 
been  omitted  from  filming  /  II  se  peut  que  ceitairws 
pages  blanches  ajout^es  lors  d'une  restauration 
apparaissent  dans  le  texts,  mais,  kxsque  ceia  Malt 
possible,  oes  pages  n'ont  pas  M  fibntes. 


L'tnstitut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  examplaire  qu'il  lui  a 
ete  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details  de  cet  exem- 
plaire  qui  sont  peut-etre  uniques  du  point  de  vue  bibli- 
ographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  une  image  reproduite, 
ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une  modifications  dans  la  meth- 
ode  normale  de  filmage  sont  indiques  ci-dessous. 

I     I      Coloured  pages  /  Pages  de  couleur 

I     I      Pages  damaged  /  Pages  endommag6es 

I     I      Pages  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
' — '      Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pelteuldes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed  / 
Pages  decolorees,  tachet^s  ou  piquees 

Pages  detached  /  Pages  d^chees 

Showthrough  /  Transparence 

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Quality  in^le  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material  / 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

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slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image  /  Les  pages 
totalement  ou  partiellement  obscurcies  par  un 
feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure,  etc.,  ont  M  filmtes 
^  nouveau  de  fafon  k  obtenir  la  meilleure 
image  possible. 

I  I  Opposing  pages  with  varying  colouration  or 
' — '  discolourations  are  filmed  twice  to  ensure  the 
best  possible  image  /  Les  pages  s'opposant 
ayant  des  colorations  variables  ou  des  decol- 
orations sont  film^es  deux  fols  afin  d'obtenir  la 
meilleur  image  possible. 


D 

D 
D 


n 


AddKk)n8l  comments  / 
Commentaires  suppt^mer^aires: 


Thit  ittm  i<  f  Hmsd  at  th*  fsduction  ratio  ehaekad  below/ 

Ca  documant  att  fiHnt  au  tauK  da  rMuction  indi«u*  ei  dauoiw. 

10X  14X  1IX 


22X 


MX 


XX 


^2x 


y%x 


J 


ax 


24X 


2tX 


32* 


The  copy  filmed  hmrm  has  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  graca  i  la 
g*n*roait*  da: 

Bibliotheque  nationale  du  Canada 


Th«  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  eriginel  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contfact  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantas  ont  *tA  reproduites  avec  la 
plus  grand  loin.  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nenet*  de  I'exemplaire  filmi.  et  en 
conformity  avec  lea  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copies  in  printed  pepar  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  lest  page  with  a  printed  or  iilustreted  impree* 
sion,  or  the  beck  cover  when  appropriete.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, end  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  freme  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"). 
whiehaver  appliea. 

Maps,  plates,  charu.  etc..  mey  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ere  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  ieti  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  as  meny  frames  es 
required.  The  following  diegrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exempiaires  originaux  dont  la  couvorture  en 
pepier  est  impnmee  sent  filmSs  en  eommen^ant 
par  la  premier  piet  et  en  terminant  seit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  exempiaires 
originaux  sont  fllr.-i«s  on  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dea  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  telon  It 
cas:  le  symbole  «^  signifie  "A  SUiVRE  ".  I* 
aymbolo  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartaa.  planches,  tableeux.  etc..  peuvent  otre 
filmAs  *  dea  uux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  il  est  filme  A  pertir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  geuche.  de  gauche  *  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  baa.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagea  nAcassaire.  Lea  diagrammea  suivants 
illustrent  la  m«thod«. 


6 


MICROCOPY   RESOLUTION   TEST  CHART 

(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2) 


I.I 


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p;i 

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Oh 

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1.8 


d  APPLIED  liVMGE    Inc 

^  t6S3  East  Moin  Street 

'.S  Rochester.   Neo     ork         U609       USA 

B  (716)  482  -  OJOO  -  Phone 

B  (716)   288  -  S989  -  Fa> 


Iil 


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The  Wandering  Yankee 


Registered  in  conformity  with  Act  of  Parliament  of  Canada 
in  the  year  1902.  by  A™  A.  Gako   in  the  office  of       * 
tlie  Minister  of  Agriculture. 


WITNESS  PRINTWO  HOUSE, 

FBmTBBs  AKD  Emtwnat, 

MONTREAL. 


The  Wandering  Yankee 


or. 


The  Fun  of  Seeinj  Canada. 


BY 


ANSON  A.  GAJID, 

author  of 
My  Friknd  Bill, 
The  Yankee  in  Quebkc. 
Card's  Log  Hook, 
National  Hymn  to  the  Flag, 
The  Cuban  Battle  Hvmn, 
Some  Dked  op  Worth,  ' 
Etc.,  Etc. 


Published  by 

THE  EMERSON  PRESS, 

130  Liberty  Street,  New  York 
132  Pkel  Street.  Montreal,  Can. 


I 


.3 

->f   ^  5f 


"We  are  Not  Divided,, 
All  One  Body  We, 
One  in  Hope  and  Doctrine, 
One  in  ChariTi." 


i 


iri?*i 


-^--^  *!•¥'...>•. 


iiiiBri  '■  r»  '■'■ 


BcOicnttoit. 


a    io„"t       ^";V^''^''-,7'-»  --  tlu.  great  men  of 

iiiai  couiin  V.        J  lir»i'<«    will      I    >     :.. 

„„1    1     -i-  AIILll     will       l,o      111    ,3vt'lV      (ifv     locil 

bu    whose  vovy  names  are  often  unknown  outside  the 
-nn        .  ';,  '^^^'^"'  *''^'^"'^  ••"'^'  ">""  ^vhose  names  a  e 

but  not  .  '''  'r''''''  •"^■"'"■^  ''f  t"^'  laiKl-knowu 
but  not  honored.     Still,  again,  there  may  be  a  n,  in 

tbn  n  h»mble^t,-to  the  very  boundaries  of 

the  Dominion.       Go   where  you  mav,   seek   out  the 

in  doing  a  lovnig  homage  to  this  man  of  v.orth 

nvejy  thought  of  the  man  to  whom  I  wisl  ed  to  dedi 
oate  my  work;  but  I  eouhl  scarcely  hope  to  bo  granted 

TiseT'i'-'"'  -r  '  ""^'^^  ^^'  ^'-  Tonoi  Not  bt 
cause  of  his  wealth  or  title-I  care  tor  neither-  but 
because  he  was  a  man  whose  principle  I  coud 
udm.re;  because  he  was  a  man  whom  all  his  feTlow 
men  could  love.  I  asked  that  honor.  I  asked  to  be 
allowed  to  dedicat^^  my  work  to  him.  '  Grant  ,ne 
the  prni  ego,"  I  wrote  "if  «r-'i  i.^i  ^Ji^uix  me 

best  effortl''     ^Z;  Jo.J     iLTrSe^lT.^ 
:;i:r'' "Ivfr  "'"f '  "'  ^''-^^'-V  -cede  to  y^^r 
honor,''  "'        ''  '"•''^""  delighteth  to 

.    Xovi  mtntfxccnn  »n5  JHott   t  Boflal. 


INTRODUCTION. 


"Colom-J/'  said  I,  one  day   -  j  w.«i.  i  . 
some  genial  snipif    i.i         ^'  ^"  *  '^'"f'w 

h'-iii.ii  spuit,  like  yourself    in  Ar.>,  • 

I'd  go  over  and  see  if  I'.onM  «    ,  *'"'' 

hunting  up  the  old  nn^      L-   ^  ^"*^  '"'-^  ^"n  in 
tho  new  oi  that  euJ  '    ^"^^''^^  •'^^'l"ainted  with 

onfid^ni;l:;;'-^-"r^->.MVen.ust 

-ii  Life,  eJit  r;  b^r ^:^^^r*"-*  r 

aim  is  to  find  the  Oa^is  wlUi  "''•  '^'^' 

world   ,^o  worrv-n.r  r      V        ^'''^  '"'^^  ^'^  ^''^ 
can  sha'-re  Ze  ;"l=r;;;,  fV'^"'^^'.  *'^-'  if   I 
--mnke  hinx  forget  foLt'  ^''"^  ^'''  *''^"''^'- 
«"Hle  with  me  at  tTe  jovs       ..   "'V''  ^"^  '"^"^ 
real  worth   than  hnd  7^'i  !^'*"''  "*^''^  ^^ 

of  the  "Steenth"  mntl  \  ''''''^  ^  "^^^-  ^^^^^ 
ety  Of  timber  ^f  w^cf;  ^e  Sort/ P  ",'  •'''  ""''■ 
The  world  can  do  without  thsn'' '' '"•'^'^• 
along  without   the   vole   Ll\  ?''  """"''y 

needs  have  broken  to  «  .  the  world  must 
mean  to  not  only  ^etl'^K'^"^  ^^  "^^^'  '^^"^  I 
ward  the  b  eSg  "  y"^'';*  ^?  V  P-"*  to- 

-me  genial  spirrt'inMoXlfpd':'  '  '"^" 
see  if  I  conlrt  fin^  „      "^"^reai,  i  d  go  over  and 

ti.o  in.o.rti';"e„  „^  "„",  :;*■;?■"■'"■"-'  -♦ 

tropolis."  ''^"'^^<»f  Canada's  great  me- 


Tntrodiu'tion. 


"  Rube,  let  me  tell  you  one  thing  right  here. 
You  will  find  Montreal  a  social  zero.  The  peo- 
ple even  freeze  each  other  in  their  effort  to 
hold  their  places.  They  never  warm  up  lest  it 
wouldn't  be  proper," 

"  See,  here  Colonel,  I'll  wager  that  you've 
got  that  story  from  some  '  nobod .  '  who  would 
not  have  been  received  in  one  of  our  own  vil- 
lages, much  less  in  the  society  of  our  cities, 
and  he  calls  Montreal  cold  because  it  would 
not  throw  its  social  doors  opon  to  him.  When 
I  hear  a  man  express  an  opinion  on  a  city  or  its 
people,  I  must  first  know  the  man  before  I  give 
heed  to  his  opinion,  and  even  then  I  prefer  ?e- 
ing  the  city  and  its  people  before  forming  avj 
opinion  whatever  of  them." 

"  Rube,  you  may  be  right,  but  I  know  a  man 
of  unblemished  character,  who  was  and  is  clje 
associate  of  our  o«wn  Generals,  Senators,  and  is 
even  recognized  Dy  our  President  who  was  two 
months  in  Montreal  before  he  was  invited  out 
to  dinner  and  even  then  the  ihvitor  changed 
his  mind,  at  the  last  minute,  and  took  htm 
around  the  corner  and  offered  him  a  drink." 

"  Colonel  Horatius — you're  a — well,  no  mat- 
ter. I'm  going  over  to  Montreal,  and  I'll 
wager  you  a  Windsor  dinner  I'll  find  it  all 
right." 

And  here  I  be,  ready  to  win  that  dinner. 
The  Colonel,  who  is  never  a  busy  man,  has  pro- 
mised frequent  visits  to  the  Island  City  during 
my  stay,  and  I  assure  you  I  will  make  good  use 
of  him  since  you  all  seemed  to  like  him  well  in 
''  The  Yankee  Tn  Quebec,"  throughout  which  he 
played  no  insignificant  part. 


^l)t  Wmtttins  ^anktt. 


and  down  throughout  the  longth  and  bi-eudth  of 
our  hmd  !  It  has  been  "Fourth  of  Julied  "  t»m 
the  remotest  Cross  Roads  to  the  stages  of  our 
"Hn  "^r"""'  "«  ^«"»'^'  ^••"  continue  "o 
oratTabZ   """ '"'""  ""'  ^""'"*'"»^'  ^^  *« 

nev!^'do''f'  "^xc*  ^"^  *^'^  ^*^**'«'  ^"t  •*  ^"'"d 
"7.?  XT*"'   *f«"t'*'"'-     Why,  Montreal   has 
"four      Norths-North,  due  North,  magnet, 
^orth  and  Montreal  North,  and  Mith  thc'ral 
t be  sun  nses  in  the  South  straight  down  1W\ 
street,  past  the  ^Vindsor. 

Neither  the  Colonel  nor  I  o„n  account  for 
tins.  He  says  ,t  may  be  owing  to  Montival  bc-- 
"  g  on  an  island,  or  that  it  is  bent  out  of  plumb 
^v    ho  mounta  n  at  the  edge  of  town,  while 

ho;''-  ^'"."^••"^''  you're  crooked,  and  have 
been  ever  since  those  New  York  nidermeu  got 
to  coming  up  here!"  As  John  is  from  near 
Pliiladelphiu  and  used  to  help  run  its  politic. 


d 


12 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


John  ought  to  be  authority  on  anything  "crook- 
ed," so  we  will  let  it  go  at  that.  Yes,  children, 
Montreal  is  on  an  island  of  the  same  name. 
You  may  have  known  it  but  I  didn't.  The  Ot- 
tawa river  comes  down,  and  divides  itself  up 
indiscriminately  among  a  lot  of  islands  in  try- 
ing to  join  itself  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  and,  apro- 
pos of  the  "  joining "  it's  almost  like  trying 
to  mix  oil  and  water — one  of  them  is  mineral, 
clear  and  blue,  while  the  other  is  vegetable — 
yellow  and  thick — one  so  unlike  the  other  in 
color  that  you  can  see  the  line  between  the  two 
distinctly  marked  for  many  miles  down  the 
river  past  the  city.  This  island  on  which  the 
city  and  mountain  stand  is  about  30  miles  long, 
and  at  the  widest  point  10  miles  in  width. 

Montreal  has  had  so  many  aliases  that  it  is  a 
wonder  it  can  recognize  itself.  It  started  out 
as  an  Indian  town  called 

HOCHELAGA, 
then  it  was  called 

VILLE  MARIE 

"  the  city  of  Mary."      It  next  was 
MOUNT  ROYAL 


so  called  from  the  mountain.     Finally  this  last 
named  became 

MONTREAL 

or  as  the  French  would  say,  "  Mo'real."      The 
*'  nt  "  being  silent— like  about  one  half  of  the 


The  IVamicring  Yankee. 


13 

letters  in  all  their  words  seem  to  be  until  one 
wonders  why  they  use  them  at  all,  L  "1  busv 
age  of  shortening  everything  up  *;  the   imir"^ 

toThe'contrenr  "^'^  '^^  ^'^«*-'^^'^'  -*->''  ^"- 

WHEN  JACQUES  CARTIER  CAME  TO 
TOWN 

(pronounce  Gshok  Karcha).  Cartier  came  over 

uiscovei  tne  Stadoconas,  at  Queber.  The  Stn 
daconas  were  named  after  a  Fishing  and  Hun?-" 

Hfilway  '" Vf?  *'?  ^"^'^^^  -'^  ^^^-  ^t/j^ohn 
them  ho*  .  t  '  ^'^^'"^  P'"«P«''l.^  discovered 
laZ^  T"^  "P  "•"  "^'^''  t«  ^'-it  the  Hocw 

lagans,  much  against  the  will  of  the  aforesaid 

.,«P  fn    ^^^^-^^'^  everything  possible  except  to 
"«e  force  to  detain  him,  pretending  to  ha  e 

<a«h  distribution  of  trinkets-but  he  wouW  go. 

THE  HOCHEI.AGAN8, 

^^XnZZlf  "•?  ^"''"^  ^--nst^atlons  of 

them     Th/  '  -^  ^'''''*'  ""  n^w  to  all  of 

thnn.    This  was  on  the  evening  of  Oct  2  nn 

that  night  yet,  but  he  wanted  to  make  a  granj 


i 


14 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


II P' 


entry  and  preferred  daylight.  Early  on  the 
morning  of  the  3rd,  a  large  delegation  of  Alder- 
111.  n  were  down  at  the  wharf  to  escort  him  up. 
They  were  all  bedecked  with  new  paint  and 
some  feathers,  and,  no  doubt,  presented  an  im- 
posing spectacle.  History  does  not  state  the 
exact  line  of  the  parade,  but  I,  having  as  much 
right  to  make  history  as  anyone  else  who  don't 


THE    WKLCOMK. 

know,  will  state  positively  that  the  line  of 
march  was  up  MclHll  street  to  Victoria  Square, 
through  the  centre  of  which  *'  ran "  Craig 
Rtreet,  which  they  crossed  by  '  swimming  '  —a 
custom  extending  down  to  the  present  day. 
The  aldermen   not    beinj;  civilized  were  conse 


The  Wandcriug  Yankee.  j.-; 

qnently   honest,  and    as    the    party   emerR.d 

ilTu     "r  '*r*  ''''''  -P'«-^'d  to  Cartie. 
that  they  found  it  impossible  for  them  to  L^et 
rich  themselves,  and,  at  the  same  time,  keep 
their  streets   in   passable  condition-save   bv 
canoes.      After  they  had  swam  Craij?  street 
they  came   up  Beaver   Hall    Hill   to   Phillips 
Square,   crossed     St.    Catherines    thence    out 
Lnion  avenue  past  the  Colonial  House  to  Sher- 
brooke,    up  which   they  led    the  way  to   their 
town  proper,  located  just  south  of  Sherbrooke 
—across    the    way    from    McGill  College— at 
Mansfield  and  Metcalf  streets,  and  NoTth  of 
Iturnside. 


THE  HORSOMISING  01"  MH.  .JAC.iL'E8  CARTIEU. 

Fro,n  car^i     ,,  ^^^^^^^  ^^,^.^.j^  ^^^  furnished  to 

hi  hnd"  f"^^'.''^  "Hochelasa,"  he  nn.st 
\m\e  had  an  interestinK,  if  not  a  hilarious  time 
-luM.  he  Kot  into  the  circular  town  proZ' 
Jaciues  was  not  only  a  real  hero  of  the  Mcu-- 
nma..  K.nki„K  type,  but  a  very  brave  man  n« 
well,  for  as  he  admits 


16  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

ALL  THE  WOMEN  KISSED  HIM. 

"  Brave  man,"  for  to  have  been  thus  Hobson- 
ized  in  so  general  a  way  would  have  called  for 
a  high  degree  of  bravery— unless  perchance  the 
Hochelaganesses  were  "  The  Beautiful  Indian 
Maidens  "  who  existed  in  old  historic  times.  Tn 
that  case  the  Colonel— a  brave  ladies'  man- 
says  Jacques  Cartier,  was  really  an  object  of 
envy.  The  Colonel  also  seems  to  think  that 
there  was  some  error  about  his  being  a  mar- 
ried man  as  he  would  never  have  men- 
tioned this  particular  fact,  had  he  been. 

Jacques  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  man  to 
exclaim : 

"  HOCH  DER  KI(S)SER  !" 

After  Jacques  hj^d  gone  through  this  ordeal 
(?)  the  Mayor  of  the  '^ity,  Agou  Hanna,  deliver- 
ed the  customary  speech  of  welcome,  a  speech 
of  the  usu?l  length— and  interest.  There  is  no 
record  extant  as  to  what  particular  branch  of 
the  Hanna  family  Agou  belonged  to,  but  it  Js 
supposed  to  be  the  same  from  which  "  Marl;  " 
sprang  as  the  propensity  to  "  Boss  "  runs  so 
generally  through  the  lines  of  the  two  in  ques- 
tion. 

HONOURS  OF  C.^  RTIER. 

I  would  dearly  love  to  tell  you  more  of  this 
Cartier  story,  but  space  forbids.  But  I  must 
dwell  long  enough  to  say  that  Jacques  is  down 
in  all  the  books  as  one  of  the  real  characters  of 
Early  Canada.  They  pay  him  all  sorts  of  hon- 
ours here  in  Montreal— where  they  have  nnxv^^ 
Rubber  Shoe  and    Pulp   Companies    for    him, 


The  Wandering  YanTiee. 


17 
given  him  a  Square-on  which  they  havo  hniit 


TIIK  MAYOR  ADDRESSING  JACQUES  CAKTIEU 


morning  you  can  take  vour  l)imkof   .,n,i  k 


18 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Jaeques  Cartier  was  a  real  hero, — but  he  didn't 
stay  long  enough  in  town  to  get  to  know  it  as 
he  should,  else  he  would  not  have  come  in  on 
Oct.  2nd.,  and  gone  away  on  the  4th.  I  got  here 
myself  one  day  and  wanted  to  get  out  the  next, 
but  didn't  have  the  price— now  I  like  it  so  well  I 
could  stay  always.  Cartier  wanted  to  have 
gone  on  up  the  river  to  Caughnawaga,  but  the 
Lachine  Canal  wasn't  completed  yet  and  h( 
couldn't  get  up  the  rapids  west  of  town,  so  he 
returned  to  Quebec,  190  miles  down  the  river. 
It  was  a  long  time — 76  years — until  the  next 
pioneer  happened  this  way,  then 

SAMUEL  CHAMPLAIN 

found  himself  on  tjie  scene.  He  came  acroR.^ 
from  France,  stopping  at  Quebec  long  enough 
to  found  it,  (in  1608),  and  get  it  in  runninvf 
order.  H.  came  up  the  river  in  :611  and 
founded  a  trading  post  on  the  old  Custom 
House  Square  afterwards  called  "  La  PitUe 
Royale." 

MAISONNEUVE. 


W 


Paul   de  Chom^dy,   Sieur  de   Maisonneuve, 
with  the  Governor,  De  Montmagny  Father  Vi 
mont,  a  Jesuit,  Mile.  Mance,  one  other  woman, 
and  fifty -five  men,  on  May  18th,  1642,  landed 
and  founded  Ville  Marie. 

The  Indians  had,  since  the  Jacques  Cartier 
days  of  107  years  previous,  done  so  much  fight- 
ing among  themselves,  that  they  had  lost  all 
their  former  hospitality,  and  Maisonneuve  had 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  19 

•Hdi-s    ^le    sottkM-s    had    to    keep    within    it's 
>ou«d8    lest  thej  be  attacked    bv  the  '  "vale 


ORIGINAL  LIMITS. 

The  original  village  was  very  small       Jt  .e 
tr^nded  north  and  south,  back  from    le  rim-  to 
For  ification   Lane,    between     St.   James    ^n 
Craij,  streets,  and  east  and  west  from  Dalho 
le  Square,  (Place  Viger  Station  of  the  C  P  i  " 
ma  ,t;"  f'"''-      ''  "^«  '---^".v  an  island:  a 
street  was  then  a  considerable  stream    Ri- er 

at^s:s.r' ''  ""^"^'"^ '--  navii^h;:^ 

THE  PLACE  D'ARMES 

wn^'^^f '-^^  '^  "^^'the  business   centre  ofth'^ 
toxvn,  and  since  Maisonneuve  figured  so  hiSv 
m    hose  olden  da.ys,  it  is  most  appropria  "ti- 
the really  beautiful  monument    o  1  im  ,ho   M 
s  and  as  it  does  in  the  centre  of  thirsnu-o 
an  about  winch  are  th.  g..at  Bank  of  M     t^    J 
with  Its  millions  of  capital,  making  it  one  of 
he  strongest  monied  institutions  on  the  Vn 
•nent),  some  of  the   largest   insurance   b.il- 
ngs  in  the  city,  and   many  other  fine  bus    e  s 
nstitutions.      But  that  which  will  be  of     oJt 
interest  to  the  tourist  is  the  great  chu  ch   nl 
Notre  Dame  and  the  old  SemCrv  o    St^'s;/ 
pice  across    Notre    Dame  street  to  the  sou 

OiMontieal     further  along.    There  are  some 


20 


The  IVattdcriug  Yankee. 
TABLETS 


on  buildings  facing  this  Square,  put  then?  bv 
the  Antiquarian  Society  which  is  wisely  mark- 
ing the  spots  of  historical  interest  in  all  parts 
of  the  old  V'ille  Marie.  This  Society,  how- 
ever seems  to  take  it  for  granted  that  the 
English-speaking  public  know  all  about  it,  as 
the  tablets  are  mostly  In  French. 

RUBE    REDISCOVERS   MONTREAL. 

Having  rediscovered  Montreal,  I  am  here  to 
see  this  city  and  simply  wain^er  around,  pick 
up  what  I  can  during  the  winter,  give  you  an 
occasional  impressiion  of  its  sports,  people,  and 
whatever  occurs  worth  noting,  with  no  order 
of  arrangement,  just  as  you  would  And  it  were 
you  to  drop  into  town  in  the  early  part  of  win- 
ter to  remain  until  the  blossoms  come  again. 
At  tirst  I  was  disappointed  as  see  my  sketch 
on. 


WINTER  SPORTS  IN  CANADA. 

It's  Christmas  Day.  The  Colonel  and  I  refus- 
ed all  invitations  to  dinner,  (the  invitations 
are  to  be  framed  in  gold  and  marked  ''  exhibit 
A")  and  dined  with  the  bride  and  groom,  from 
Princeton  and  Baltimore  respectively,  who  said 
they  were  going  to  have  a  little  "  play  dinner  " 
in  their  rooms,  and  have  things  "  just  like 
mother  used  to."  Say,  "mother"  (they  did 
not  say  which  one's)  must  have  had  things  flue 
at  her  Christmas  dinners  !  At  any  rate,  the 
Colonel   and   I  will   never,   never   forget    the 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  21 

"Play  Dinner,"  Christmas  Day  of  1901       It's 
now  late  and  the  Colonel  is  not  over  it  vet 
but  that  8  not  telling  you  of  "  winter  sports  in' 
Canada."    I  v^ant  to  meet   the   man  -'-o   in- 
vented those  four  words,  and   put   them  toge- 

that  ".?"';*  I'  ''''-  "''  ^"^  ^"  ^» «-  --l<i 

that     the  only  Percy  "  or  genial  "  Matt "  Mur- 
phy can  show  us  of  "  winter  sports  "  is  a  skat- 
ing rmk,  which  I  thought  was  a  flower  conser- 
vatoj  until  "Percy"  told  me  different,  and  a 
lot  of  pictures  at  the  M.A.A.A.  of  some  bovs 
aud  girls  sliding  down  hill   on   a   long  bbaki 
Which  "Matt"  says  is  called  " toboggLni ng," 
but  which  I  could  .Imost  risk  a  wager,  was 
taken  of  our  old  crowd,  sliding  down  Wilson's 
Hill   on  a  plank  at  Tremont.      "  Yes   Rube  " 
.aid  ;^  Matt,"  ene  day,  while  standing  i'nlroni 
of  this  picture,  "  tobogganning  and  icepalacing 
and  hockey  and  snowshoeing   and   ski   ing   (I 
l.dn't  ask  '  Matt '  if  this  was  spHled  '  sking'  or 

Matt    called  it)  are  great  sport."    "Yes,"  said 
I,     but  when  do  you  do  it  ?    Now  I  can't  waif 
around  up  here  till  next  summer  just  to  Imve 
>ou  prove  that  these  pictures  were  not  taken 
down  there  on  the  Fort  Lee  Hill-where  everv- 
thmg  slides  all  theyear  around.  No,  I  wanttosee 
or  myself."  Then  he  took  me  down  there  where 
they  have  since  built  a  beautiful  shrine  to  a 
man  whose  greatness  should  have  warranted 
him    a    monument   instead,    and    showed   me 
where  had  once  stood  an  ice  palace.    "  Here  is 
where  we  icepalaced   in   1889.      Oh,  it  was   a 
splendid  spectacle."    "  Yes,  I  hear  all  th.^t  but 
What  did  you  build  it  out  of  ?"     «  Whv  ice  of 
course,    .what    do    you    suppose  ?"    pliyingly. 


22 


The  IVaiidcring  ]\inka\ 


"Well,  I  really  don't  know.     Yon,  people  up 
iH'iv,  have  a  way  of  building  things  that  I  can't 
follow  the   plans  of.     Home  of  you   built  that 
sentence    'Winter    Sports    in    Canada,'   and 
Hooded  our  country  with  its  photograph  until 
you  even  made  me  bring  all  my  winter  doth  >" 
Avith  me  last  June,  then  'roasted'  me  after  vi- 
got  me  up  here.  I  tell  you  '  Matt,'  it  'ooks  like 
a  scheme  of  your  tailors  and  haberdashers  to 
make  us     ling  out-o'-season    clothes,  then,  in 
self-defeii, . ,  buy  their  stock— why,  1  expected 
to,  at  least,  und  the  ruins  of  your  last  palace, 
if  not  the  palace  itself,  and  all  you  show  me  is 
this  shrine  where  it  stood,  and  tell  me,  'Oh,  it 
was  a  beautiful  spectacle  ."    I  tell  you  '  Matt,' 
it  would  take  a  \\^ry  strong  pair  of  them  to 
'see  '  this  '  winter  sports  in  Canada '  business}." 
'  Rube,  don't  get  impatient,  we'll  show  you 
yet  I"      Here  it  is  Christnms  and  he  has  only 
showed  me  the  photograph.     "Brown,  here," 
said  "Matt"  one  day,  at  the  "Alphabetical 
Club"— "can  b.  ;jr  me  out." 

Tl  .'U   IJrown   produced   a   pamphlet   of   the 

loriK  ago,  and    let  me   read  wht      Luke  Sharp 

hac'  said  on  tobogganing,  and  told  me,  "  Rube, 

just  wait.     I'll  let  Paton  take  you  down,  and 

*  Luke  Sharp'  that  he  don't  open  your  eyes  1" 

"  Thirty  days  V  said  I,  and  he  deserved  it. 

I  met  a  hackman  the  other  day.      Poor  fel- 

l(»w,  I  felt  sorry  for  him.      He  was  lamenting 

the  hard  times.  Said  he:  "You,  Yankees,  come 

up  here  and  won't  ride  unless  we  can  haul  vou 

around  in  sleighs  I"      That  explained  the  mud 

sleighing  they  do.       I  couldn't  understand  it 


before.   Why,  I  do  think  Sfontreal  can  do  ... 
sleighing  on  slight  provocation  than  any  pi 


more 


lice 


The  Wandcrins  Yankee. 


23 

I  can't—I'm  brokp  "    h^         .  "*  ^  ^"- 

"•anting  ,„,„e    ,„„  ,    ^r    ottr     "w"?" 
Sport,  in  Canada  !-    fla,.  ,„';,";:,',i^.^„  ^^  ■-*»■• 

TOUOOCiANNIXo. 

'.«..  to  -;  a,' ;.r^?rn''te  's  irfirs,,::;'".  i 

saw  at  once  that  fhf.^  t  i+  Canada,'  I 

do.-  to  save  re"^f„,':Lrr';;'"""?""*  '^• 

'  Slioits,'  eiae  wlien  rn v  h    ?  "^  aforesaid 

palaces  and  feed  its  polar  bears       ^^  r       "« 
said    Matt     "  s  .m„+i  •  "t^ais,       "  Percy  w 

ter  sports."    iy;'  't"'"'""  ?"„"'  """'  ""'• 
wlmt  can  we  do   witl!  ?,  .'  .,"'   ^''"'>''  "  ""* 

prognostication   frm„  ,i  "  "azette  "  a 

nevoe,  Prof"e„.  r      t  "'"'  "»nt«"al's 

-.wsi,„e,.     A  severe  e:M  ^ve*     "Sil  "",t 
'eft  Arlcansas,es,erda.vat  13.29  for  ",  e  oulf 


24 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


where  it  will  reverse  sails,  come  up  the  Missis- 
sipi  Valley,  veer  easterly  by  north  across  the 
Muskingum,  reach  Hackensack  about  Sun- 
day-school time,  and  from  thence,  westerly  by 
north,  touch  Chicago,  near  the  Stock  Yards,  at 
23.40  Intercolonial  time,  play  around  among 
the  lakes  on  its  way  down  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  be  here  for  breakfast  on  Wednesdav." 


Wlien  I  read  this  I  saw  that  I'errin  had  Iwen 
"  seen  "  by  Matt,  and  as  this  great  producer  of 
w(»ather  had  never  been  known  to  fail,  I  felt: 
"I  might  as  well  tak«'  my  duster  down  to  uncle 
Lazzarus,  get  what  I  can  on  it  and  buy  an 
overcoat.''  It  was  lucky  for  me  that  I  did.  for 
sure  enough  the  snow  began  to  fall  on  schedule 
time,  and  kept  it  up  until  it  must  have  been 
fully  five  inches  deep  by  Saturday.  I  couldn't 
imagine  at  first  why  the  small  boy  and  his  sis- 
t<'r  seemed   so   hilarious,  but  was   told   after- 


mi% 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


25 


more  have  real«rl  Montreal  could  once 

telling  Of  ray  oVnIX'g'.an"  Id^' 1^%,*^^ 
"de  !    As  I  sit  here  in  f ht^  '^^'  ^^a* 

to  be  Wheeled  to  the^„dt??T'f ''  "^"  "^^^ 
going  down,  down  tLT^.     V  •  ^^'  ™^'^'^  «till 
tbe  thrills  running   ^pTndd?  '"'''  ''''''  '^" 
You  see  it  had  been  L         .     "^^    ""-^  ^^°»e. 
and  the  bo^  sho^d  1  o  ^r'/'"*  *^^  ^^^^ 
Will  Geraught'rwine  Tin"  T  '  "^"  '"^^  ^^^h 
get  the  resf  of  itTtnni        ^^  P^'omised  to  for- 
"«ube,"said  Jin?:,  rj^^':;:;"^  ">  '"«  sleigh, 
this  thing  proper  "  '''''' ""  ^'"t  to  do 

thTe,  if  I  havp  t„  i      .   ^         '"''<"■''  "e  reach 

" I.;*',  see  ''  said  ,  "'<";'"'  ""•  "  '""^•" 
«We  to  And  o'ue  ?„r  v'"';  .  Jr'"  '  "'"y  >"• 
r-uke  Sharp  and  other  n„,M  '''"*  ''"■■•'•"  »»<! 
fnne.,  whe'L  I  took  them  t„h'  "'°'^'  "'  '■■■"■""■" 
"SO"  I  was  almos  glad  ;&""'"'•''  '''''' 
from  the  attic  with  „„  „       ,         '"'  ™™«  back 

««id  he  feared    he  mot hT  °",'  "'  ""°««-  ""-> 

-it,  I  know ,  sh„:,d . .  zt:,  "■"  "."■ 

".e  s,„t  worn  by  »reat  me^  "'  "'  "'"'■"  '" 

knee.  This  ^o*-  Z "d  luh  ? 'I,  ■""""  '"- 
Rolf,  with  a  rollin  "ton  T  i  ..  '"  '''"''■'-"'" 
'■-rturoy  pair  „,  ,t  ^ell  «  p:;^"'","  ^""'  " 
'■<.v,  coat  a.ed  in  i^o  Imn  i„„  '"''"K  vari- 

»i".  a  nice  ..attoi  ol  top  '"  "s    ';  ''"""••'  '■""• 
--^'n,,..„ow,„„n,„:rhavf:":e!rre°1C 


20 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


hold  your  coat  on,  and  a  pair  of  snowshoe  mo- 
cassins, and  you'll  be  fixed,"  both  of  which  he 
found,  but  the  mocassins  were  his,  and  very 
tight  for  me,  but  Jim  said  they'd  stretch,  and 
we  started. 

"We'll  first  go  round  past  the  M.A.A.A.  (I 
don't  think  I've  lost  any  of  the  '  A's)  rink  and 
toboggan  slide-  T  want  you  to  see  Ihe  i)eople 
who  patronize  the  sports." 

I  didn't  know  Montreal  had  so  many  pretty 


-f    K^jn. 


Thcv  stopped 


TOBOOfiAMMIMO 


girls  as  I  saw  that  afternoon,  and  they  were 
all  so  pleasant,  too— why,  as  I  walked  up  and 
down  along  that  slide  there  was  hardly  one  of 
all  the  number,  but  who  looked  at  me  and  smil- 
ed so  sweetly— some  of  them  even  stopped  to- 
bogganning  and  laughed  right  oat— they  did 
seem  so  sociable.  The  Colonel  8J«id 
when  he  saw  my  toboggan  suit  :  "  Well 
I'm     not     Kur])ri»ed  !"       I'm     going     to  hav 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


27 

Fitz      Maurice      draw     mo     and     the      suit 
together  —  sort     of      n 

When  I  ,et  o^anl^"  S^'^;JZJ:7' 
sn.  le  and  stop  tob„,,„„i„,.    7™     '  f,  '  ,  J 

tain,  until  „o  wore  on  tl„.  vor.v  top.    01,   l,„t 

thm  «•„„  mv  toboggan  ,Iav.       "  Wl,,.,-,."  n». 
■"l"...-lr'I  a»k,.„  of  ^^•il|  G,.,.a„gl„  '  wlL  „■ 

■    J     MlH      p"  *",  '"'■    ""■   •■  "■'■>>"  »»"'     "ill. 

?rayu:^n-r„r:^xS 

down  the  sido  „,  „  ,„„„„i„i„  .espcta.  le  „k  .i 

•ho  top  and  .vou  havo  to  clin.h  up  a  long  AM," 
of  «to,«  and  start  oil  tl.o  roof  iko  a  n^Hna 
Groen  loarning  to  fiv  •■  immus 

.rte:.:tdr::;;u.j-t^:;;;r 

riiom  tlio.v  stood  l,lo,.ki„K  "P  tlio  ,v,  v  o    1 1?  t 
»to.p  roof,  pro.,.ndi„g  t,t  ^J^,  ^^  to"  W 

■7'v«otnu.;oJ'rL,t:-„f;;.'  ;,:z'.'; 

UH(M  to  on  A\ilHon's   H  11.  at   Treniont       if   i 
^"■t  killod    ,   don-t  „.„„f  ,„  ,i,,  ,"„",■  J  , 
l"..o  r,Bl,t  boforo  n,,v  vorv  ,.,■,.«,    .yon  if      d, 
take  out  a  »12nflo  poli,,-  for  tUi,  o....,  o     '•      ' 
(}«'t  out  of  the  wa.v  !" 
"(Jo  ba<k  and  sit  down  !" 


\'^ 


I  i 

i 


28 


Th^;  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  Come  off  the  perch  !" 

"  What's  the  matter  up  there  ?"  and  all 
along  down  that  waiting  line  were  thrown  all 
sorts  of  exclamation  and  interrogation  points  at 
me  until  I  feared  I'd  need  that  policy  before  I 
even  got  started.  They  wouldn't  give  me  time 
to  tell  you  that  a  toboggan  is  nothing  but  a 
thin  board,  turned  up  at  the  front  end,  and 
long  enough  for  a  half  dozen  riders.  "Jump 
on,  quick,"  said  Jim,  "  any  way  you  please!"  T 
lay  down  and  do  you  believe  it  there    wasn't 


y"^- 


one  of  them  got  on  with  me,  but,  quicker  than 
1  can  tell  it,  they  pushed  me  off  that  roof, 
alone,  and  I  shot  out  like  a  200  pounder  with 
a  500  pound  charge.  Say,  were  you  ever  shot 
out  of  a  mortar  gun  ?"  "No,  well,  then  you'll 
have  to  guess  the  rest.  If  the  track  had  been 
straight  I  wouldn't  so  much  have  minde^  it, 
but  I  hadn't  gone  a  hundred  yards  when  I  drop- 
ped clear  off  the  earth  and  didn't  land  again 
until  I  reached  the  other  side  of  the  moat  or 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


29 

ditch  or  valley  or  whatever  thev  call  that  'mmW 
tZ'  '°^  n''"  '  '^'  ^^"^  ^^^^-«  wh'a' verv 

Tall  bov      T  ''"'''  '"^'  ^'^^-^    ^*   struck  n 
he  should  not  have  been  in  the  O  zone.    Down 

^'  /    r^?^^^°'°^'  y^"  J^now,  is  don-^  bv  sec- 
onds)    The  Empire   Express  was   onl/a  wav 
^eight  in  comparison  to  the  speed  I  was  ^oTni^ 

theToo;*"^v  *' H  f^'  ^'^"^' ^'^  ^  -»-"^-- 

the  roof.    J,ever  before  had  I  left  a  track  so 


%^i^ 


TMt,B0« 


quickly  as  I  did  at  that  instant.  I  shot  throu^W. 
neatest  b,t  of   tunnel  work   I   have  ever  se^n 

xZl'nf  T""^  *'"^"^^  *''^'  ^»'-^'  fence,  over 
p  les  of  rock-every  thing  in  that  snow  bink- 
just  as  though  they  hadn't  been  there.      When 

rest  of  the  hoys  were  quietly  dJ-  r.„ssin„  the 
bestwaytodistrib  fhatflioG  ,olicy-and 
talking  over  the  «  ^oinf«  nf  +t,       / 

mented  »      T  ^  °  ^  ^^  ^^e  ••  late   la- 

mented.       I  heard     ^e  Colonel  say,  among 


30 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


other  thing's,  "  I  always  told  Rube  that  that 
fast  life  of  his  would  be  the  end  of  him  ya^-- 
Pool-  Rube,  he  was  a  jrood  fellow,  but,  oh,  how 
'easy.' " 

Why,  I  felt  almost  gratified  to  think  I'd  been 
killed  just  to  hear  what  an  all  round  good  fel- 
low I  had  been.  One  never  knows  how  good 
one  is  until  one  has  struck  a  dojjj  on  a  Mont- 
real toboggan  slide  !     Apropos  of 


'! 


'.  ■;«) 


/tAiit    i»  IT     Its 

TMKUtl.1   A1 
0**«IVlNffr 


"  ili 


THE  MONTREAL  AMBULANCE  SERVICE. 

A  Montreal  horse  that  ean't  go  better  than 
L41  is  taken  off  the  track  and  hitched  to  the 
ambulance,  and  when  you  get  in  and  shut  for 
the  hospital,  you  instinctively  feel  for  your 
watch— forgetting  that  your  ''Uncle  "  has*  it— 
to  see  if  that  horse  isn't  making  it  at  1.30  or 
better.      And,  again,  apropos,  this  time  of 

THE  MONTREAL  HOSPITAL  SERVICE. 

It  is  simply  i)erfect  !  Why,  the  nurses  have 
treated  me  so  well  that  I'll  be  sorrv  when  I 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


ins  for  t.u„«s  to '  e7/„:'^b„:i°™  Y  "'  "'  "'""■ 

S..  I.u«tu,g  fir'a  U:^' r:;  "'.?  •™"'  *»?.  "'" 
But,  for  that  matteriguos" .,";;,";'''"  '''""• 
.-."  ...e  hospitals  are  'abo^ut   L    ame  "'"•"'  '" 


n.J,:"s  t"  ";,':,:;•;;' rr  '-«* '"»' "-  "-^ 

those  sa^e  0^1",,,:'  '"^^  7'^"'  "- 
know,  but  thev  arp       iV^    *x       ••'  '   ^^   ^ot 

and  heHevea^row  /ko';  r':.';^';;;,";?' 

bojrganing  aifain  ^    Vn«         i     .    ^^  »'l  J  go  to- 
cannot  ^or^to  en^  '.;:"/*;" '  *'-"^'''  ^ 

dog  first  V  but  «o  I  wi  .  A  *'•'■  '*  '"'  ""' 

"Ji  feo  1  will,  dog  or  no  dog." 

A  GOOD  STOKY. 

Oood  storicN  like  noop  ni,i  tt 
f'.r  a  place  of  birth.'    There  ^,  '"T"'  '"'* 
an.v  size  in  all  0,-e,„.„  i.,.!    ,  ■  *  "  '"""  »' 

^^n,  .•■..sp^^liW^Vo^H  ,Sr eaHv  '71  "' 

'*.  ' '■av-'t  .et  ,„„„ra"c:„^:ini": 


I   I   4 


iJ! 


ti. 


32 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


large  or  small,  if  it  have  a  toboggan  slide,  but 
will  tell  you  in  all  seriousness  about  how  that 
a  certain  prominent  visitor,  who,  when  he  was 
taken  down  their  slide  said,  "  I  wouldn't  have 
missed  that  for  flOO — but  I  wouldn't  take  it 
over  for  $1,000."  It  doesn't  vary  so  much  as  a 
syllable.  They  all  tell  it  the  same,  only  chang- 
ing the  name  of  the  prominent  who  said  it. 
After  considerable  investigation  I  have,  I 
think,  traced  the  story  to  its  real  origin.  H.  C. 
Rowley,  one  of  the  publishers  of  the  "  Web- 
ster Dictionaries,"  of  Springfield,  Mass.,  w.aa 
liere,  the  guest  of  the  well-known  book  man, 
Wm.  Drysdale,  on  St.  Catherine  street.  They 
went  out  to  the  old  Montreal  A.  A.  A.  slide. 
Just  as  Rowley  finished  his  first  trip  down, 
James  Harper,  then  on  the  "  Gazete,"  but  now 
with  the  "  Witness,"  asked,  "  Well,  Mr.  Row- 
ley, how  did  you  like  the  ride  ?"  "  Oh,  it  was 
fine,  fine.    I  wouldn't  have  missed  it  for  $100  !" 

"  Here,  Mr.  Rowley,"  said  Jim  Paton,  with 
whom  more  prominents  have  gone  down  than 
with  any  other  man  in  Canada,  "  come,  try  a 
ride  with  me." 

"  Wouldn't  go  again  for  $1,000  !" 


WINTER  IN  CANADA. 


IIow  often  have  I  wished  for  ideal  winte*. 
I've  watched  the  snow  fall,  and  hoped  it  might 
remain  long  enough  to  have  some  fun  sleigh- 
ing. In  the  old  Ohio  home  where  my  social  cir- 
cuit extended  over  a  wide  area,  in  the  days 
when  I  cared  more  for  fun  than  work,  I  never 
dared  to  start  away  in  a  sleigh,  lest  I   came 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


home  in  the  mud.    It  was  not  because  the  wea- 
ther was  not  cold  enough,  but  in  that  country 

coun^nl  w'"  '""^^  °^«^'^-    'T'^^re  was  no 

counting  on  what  was  coming.    The  winter,  bv 

back  to  cold  again,  was  the  most  unhappy  sea- 
«on  of  all  the  year.  I  used  often  to  wSf  tlmt 
winter  would  be  winter  and  stop  at  that,  but  U 
never  would,  it  just  kept  on  changing,  w  th 
each  change  worse  than  the  last. 
Here  I  be,  in  Canada,  in  the  winter  of  1902 

L7r>.  '°  *^  ^""""'^  «^  J«>'  "  Eureka  !"  at 
^ast  have  found  the  hope  of  my  boyhood 
dajs  !      I  have  found  the  ideal  winter  of  my 

stTtf/'"^"'  ^°^  ^™  ^^PP^-  ^'h*^"  winter 
started  m,  or  rather  after  the  time   it  should 

have  started,  it  was  so  like  our  own  that  I  was 

d  sappomted  and  wrote  as  I  did  in  my  sketch 

d  »  a7d  T  """^H  ^°  "  ''^^"*^^  «P-*«  ^-  Can- 
•'  and  the  subsequent  one  on  "Toboggan- 
mng."  Matt  and  the  Colonel  say  that  t  W 
sketches  were  bad  enough  to  have  brought 
about  a  change  in  even  Canadian  weather--at 
any   rate,  they  had  hardly  been  written  when 

ThlnY^r  '/™^^°^  ^  '"^^e  pleasing  season 
than  I  have  found  winter  Canada  to  be  I  have 
never  seen  in  any  land.  I  feared  Canadian 
winter  and  only  remained  by  force  of  circum 
stances,  but,  oh  the  joy  of  it  all  !  It  snowsTd 
remains  just  cold  enough  to  keep  it  in  perfect 
condition.  It  does  not  melt  and  run  together 
in  a  mass  as  in  our  cities-weeks  may  pass  and 
the  snow  shoveler  can  load  his  cart  sled  with  a 

loosen  the  snow  bank,  but  can  throw  it  up  as 


u 


The  IVandcriug  Yatikce. 


thoujrh  ,t  had  j„8t  fallen.  It  does  not  pack  and 
become  a  mass  of  ice,  save  where  it  is  beaten 
down  by  constant  travel.    Sleighs  rnn  here  and 
there-evervthing  goes   on    runners  from  the 
pleasure  sleigh  to  the  mournful  hearse.     Why 
oven  the  street  cars-I    am  told-once    sfjd 
along  through  the  streets.      The  snow  is  not 
doep.      I've  seen  deeper  snow  about  New  York 
C  ity  than  in  Montreal,  but   here  a  little  sn-w 
serves  all  purposes  of  sleighing  for,  as  I  said, 
the  weather  remains  just  cool  enough  to  keep  it 
from  melting-  Ideal  winter -winter  in  Canada. 
(Quebec  held 

"  A  WEEK  OF  SPORTS  " 

recently      I     was     there -and     now     listen 
to    what    I    tell    you.      If    ever    one    of    my 
readers     should,     in     the      future,     hear     it 
barely    mentioned    that    there    is    to    be    a 
Carnival    or    a  Week    of  Sport«  anywhere  in 
Canada,  don't  wait  to  be  begged  to  attend,  but 
pack  your  trunks  and  come.    Don't  fear  the 
cold— the  weather  is  delightful.      All  winter 
I  ve  gone  about  with  the  same  shoes  of  sum- 
mer, with  no  rubbers  and  am  comfortable       I 
use  this  simple  proof  as  best  to  convey  to  you 
the  roal  conditions,  for  many  of  you  think  of 
this  chma+e  as  I  did,  that  it  is  bleak  and  cold 
and  barren  and  uncomfortable.    Dispel  that  no- 
tion for  on  honour,  it  is,  as  I  sav,  delightful 

But,  then,  a  word  on  the  «  Quebec  Week  of 
Sports."      It  was  not  a  Carnival  with  its  Ice 
1  alace,  but  simply  a  week  spent  in  the  various 
sports  characteristic  of  Canada.      V  "  'out  go 
mg  into  detail  as  to  the  tobogganniug,  skiing 


-  w-jM^ 


The  Waudcring  Yankee. 


^55 


was  worth    hundreds    of   miles 


THKHE  WEKE  VERY  IJEAUTIFriL. 

ww'^'II'h     ^*"'""'    *"    Monhnorencv    Falls 

£■:  ~ 

•  Hin,;i;:;::r  of  :;^'  ^^^"^  ^-^^  ^^*«"«'  ^  -*•' 

SNOW  SHOE  CLUBS'  (.'ONCERT, 

which    alone 
travel  to  see. 

It  was  all  so  new  to  me.      it  wa^  hoWi  ,-^  +1 
great  Drill  Hall.  The  stairp     .\  ^^^  held  in  the 

ed  from  manj  parts  of  Cinnri-i       at        ^'^^"*^^- 
conceive  the  beau  rof^taU    J,"  T  T^^ 
Joined  in  chorus  it  was^evondTrifnr^L'^ 
nadians  are  naturally  musical        strike  ui^" 

t"«  Of  .„.  b/Lnf  i:ir  im  ™™  V';: 

";L  .    T  "'  *'"■'  "'"'■'"'  ""•  teal  :  r;  i 
table  giants  in  sireno^-     },,,f   p,.^„,,  ,   " 

Ijieir  „,„«e,e.  wore  iL  bal^d/oT  t^rd  t 
tl.e.v  ,wa,ed,  and  paHed,  .ver  and  ata   sj 


ac 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


denly  letting  slack  the  rope  and  quickly  gather- 
ing it  in— now  seeming  certain  of  victory— now 
losing— the   vast  audience  first  standing  up, 


RUBE   GETS   BOUNCED.  -("^  *•  °  R*cky.) 

then  getting  on  the  chairs,  the  better  to  see, 
showed  the  intense  excitement  as  the  opposing 
gijints  swayed  and  pulied  until  the  referee  call- 
ed time.    So  evenly  were  the  various  teams 


:^--,  liSL 


The  IVandcring  Yankee.  37 

matched  that  they  had  to  pull  and  pull  again 

me  buT  WW*''  ''''''''■  ^'^"^  tiine^ame^ov 
me,  but  what  was  a  day  longer-midnight  was 
struck  and  still  we  held  tht  chairs.  I  neve 
cou  1  have  believed  that  so  simple  a  thing  as 
ZlZr^'^  --  tugging  at 'a  rope  could 
haTe  so  held  my  attention-but  they  did-and 
can  do  It  again.  During  the  waits,  between 
the  tugging  of  the  teams-the  snow  shoers 
made  merry  by  "  bouncing  "  unwary  victims. 

•  fl  Z  ""^^^  ^^^  happened  I  was  mak- 

efr  o  ri'      7^"^  ^^'^  '^^''  ^^th  «'^  double 

In  JhP  T      f  *'"  '^^^  ^°  ^^^^  "P  ^"d  the  floor 

Oh  m  both  the  up  and  the  down.  I  always 
«iought  the  "Bounce"  was  done  wi  1  i  o 
blanket,  but  instead  the  victim  is  thrown  up 
and  caught  in  the  outstretched   hands  of  the 

either  dropped  or  scared  to  death,  I  am  greath 


SNOW  SHOE  PARTY. 

During    the    winter    the    various    Montreal 

o  "erX'  "^t^.^J^^^b^e  by  snow  shoe  tramps 
mer  the  mountain.      The  ladies  as  well  as  the 

toThP  M^A^n  ''?^/'"  '^'^  "^P^'-t-      Thanks 
to  the  M.A.A.A.,  I,  too,  became  an  expert 

In  short,  I  repeat  if  you  ever  hear  of  a  Cana- 
dian Carnival,  or  "Week  of  Sports,"  don't  ques- 
tion,  but  go,  and  thank  me  for  the  advice.      I 


38 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


forgot  to  mention  a  very  interesting  feature  of 
the  "  Quebec  Week  of  Sports."  It  was  tlie 
making  of  a  number  of 

INDIAN  CfIIf:FS 

by  the  Huron  tribe  of  Indians  of  In 
dian  Lorettc.  about  whicli  I  tohl  vou  m 
''The  Yankee  in  Qu.'bee."  Here  is  oneof  tiie 
new  cliiefs.  He  is  a  very  large  ehicf,  but  not 
at  all  dangerous  as  he  is  a  "Good  Indian,"  al- 
though a  "live  one." 

'  CI'RLINCr. 


Curling  is  a  Scotch  game  and  is  plaved  most- 
ly with  brooms— of  course,  they  need  some  ice 
and  a  "  curling  iron  "  to  play  it  properlv,  but  to 
an  onlooker  the  broom  is  the  chief  feature.      I 
said   it  was  a  Scotch  game,  as   I   know  of   no 
other  nation  or  iK'ople  who  would  have  the  pa- 
tience to  play  it.      It  is  the  other  extreme^  of 
games,  with  hockey  holding  tlrst  plac.>.  It  is  as 
Hlow  as  hockey  is  fast.      It  is  the  tortoise  and 
the  rabbit  all  over  again  with  men  as  the  parti 
cipants. 

The  Colonel  and  I  went  to  see  a  game  be 
tween  the  Kideau  Club,  of  Ottawa,  and  the 
Montreal  team,  i>layed  in  the  rink  of  the  .Mont- 
real Curling  Club.  We  were  told  that  the  game 
was  a  very  exciting  om-,  but  the  onlv  thing  ex 
eiting,  was  in  my  trying  to  keep  the  CoI.Miel 
awake  long  enough  to  see  it  out. 

Did  you  ever  see  curling  curled  ?  No  ? 
Well  I  never  had  either  until  that  night.  I 
will    tell  you  a  little  about   it,  so   thai    if  vou 


•  r^ 


The  Wandering  Vat^'- 


39 

ever  see  it  coming  down   i  ,o    m)- 
Pass  as  strangers       Thi«V        i'''^^' ^^'<>'''  won't 

«ome  20  feet  S  and  1  o  ft:  T  '''T/^''^^^' 
end  there  are  sevpm  i  ki     ,  "''*^-    "  <^  ^^tlu'r 

'ourso,  smaller  thm  tf'''  T'"''  "^^^'^^  «"-'  ^^ 
tl^e  cir'eles  o^a"  Ct   The  ^^.T  ""''  "'^^' 
What  .vou  aim  to  lani  on.      The  th    '  "''  "  " 
to  play  with  is  called  a  "  stJn^''    o^' •^'"". "^*'' 
made  out  of  iron    It  ,•«  .        i         t>eeause  it  is 
''  I^  "  handle,  turne<  Vf  r    ."^'^^  ""*^  "'^^'  ^^'^^^  an 
about  eight  nchTsac^L^     r?'^  ''"  *'^I'-  '^ '« 
lugh,  and  wS  fLr'A"^'"^""'^*^"''"'^^^^^ 
«tand  at  one  end  asill  *,^  »'^^  ^"""^«-     ^'o» 
swing  easy  lil?  ti  ^'''  ^^^^ling,  but  von 

"sloL'g'^e'd^M^T/"^    ^*   along,  and -the 
30U  wo„li::,,'^r;or;;::r3^^ah.^    as  fast  as 

goes  80  slowly  tl.Mt  v^  ,       "*  ^  '""■''.^■-     If 

'U'o,.«„,„;;  ,;^°. ;;;;;;  f'™«  wo,,.,,.,.  „,,, 

and  8top  where  he  ,,..!•!  ''"""''  ^"  "'"'  '>»^ 
other  storres  away  ^'^*^''V  ""'  ^^'  '"'  '^'""k 

possiideconithecv>.>^:;:r;""'^^^ 

'••"'"•afing)   ,.,    ",  Vi    !       *'  *'"'  "'""*'  1"''<S 
""'*,/    <.nom    th.'jt    one    ami    J...... 

three    safe."     Now    tl.h.L-      p  ?,  ''^*     '•"'* 

'^kill  of  tlH.  p,a,;.r  '    I      "^   r.     *''^  ''oaMnmate 
'■"'J.  took   his  i'. "in   "''^';""^'**'toth.f„r(h,.r 

''own  the  1  0  ^:^  '    'T;:'"'  ^'r '■"'''  ^''''«^«"« 

t<>theside,huf;LwiZ'«f;f!':^?r^'^ 

denying  or  curling  i„  st   .  l  t h  '  '^  ^"'^'"" 

the  slone  indicated  I  '.f  ,  ."  L '  IV'r ^  T">  - 
and  another  of  the  oj.po4  i  s    1 '  '^'"'^  ''• 

h'ft  the  thrive  ston-K  if    i^.  .    "''*  "'^av,  ,,nd 
"  o  stones  safe  for  his  Hide.  This  play 


I 


40  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

oven  waked  "  my  "  Colonel  up,  and  he  didn't  go 
to  sleep  after  that.  This  Lieut.-Colonel  Sher^ 
wood  i8^he  Chief  of  the  Domimon  Pohc-  If 
he  is  as  good  a  chief  as  he  is  a  curler,  then, 
Canada  is  a  bad  place  for  the  crinimal. 

"  What  part  does  the  broom  play  .'        ^n.  ' 
forgot  to  tell  you  about  the  broom.      You  see 
.;".en  curling  was  played  out  doors  the  ice  had 
to  be  kept  clear  and  smooth  with  brooms-well, 
the  descendants  of  those  old  open  ice  players 
have  inherited  the  broom  habit  and  they  keep 
on  sweeping  as  religiously  on  the  «r;*J::l;' 
indoor  ice  as  though  the  game  were  being  play- 
ed in  a  snow  sWm.      It  is  the  fun  of  the  game 
to   see  two  or  three  of  them  in  front   of  the 
Ling  stone,  sweeping  as  though   for     heir 
very  lives,  acting  for  all  the  world    as  it  >  hen 
efforts  were  helping  the  inanimate  stone  along 
while  the  other  players  swing  their  brooms  and 
crv  out,  «  Soup,  (sweep)  soup,  soup,  for  your 
lives  '"     Like  everything  else  that  a  Scot  does, 
he  curls  with  his  heart  in  the  play.  It  is  a  game 
played  by  the  finest  men  in  the  Dominion.  One 
of  the  b^st  curlers  is  possibly  the  most  able 
preacher  in  Montreal.      If  he  has  an  equal  in 
the  pulpit,  I  may  find  him  later  on. 

The  ladies  also  play.  The  lady  contingent 
of  this  club,  won  a  trophy  at  the  recent  week 
of  sports,"  in   Quebec,  while   the  men   of  the 

club  lost.  ,  ^    ., 

Curling   is  the   one  really  moral   game-if, 
having  a  chaplain  will  make  a    game    moral. 
Each  club  is  supposed  to  have  its  chaplain^  pos; 
sibly  that  is  the  one  reason  why  it  is  so    slow 
— who  knows  ! 


The  JVandcriug  Yankee. 


41 


CURLIANA. 

I  never  saw  such  a  game  for  odd  terms  used 
in  the  play.  I  have  since  met  that  versatile 
genius,  J.  Hugh  Ross,  and  learned  from  him 
that  there  is  a  language  expressly  made  up  for 
curling.  It  is  called  "  Curliana."  He  has 
written  out  a  few  of  the  play  terms,  and  to 
make  them  more  interesting,  has  furnished  me 
a  small  picture  gallery  of  some  of  fhe  most 
prominent  curlers  in  Montreal.  I  want  it  de- 
finitely understood  that  I  am  not  responsible 
for  the  very  accurate  likeness  to  many  of  these 
gentlemen.  Each  of  the  five  city  dubs  is  here 
represented.  See  how  many  of  the  prominents 
you  can  name.  To  make  more  interesting,  I 
told  the  artist  to  disguif  ;  «  features  some- 
what, which  he  has  done,  l  enough  to  de- 
stroy the  likeness — who  ar<    .i,ev  ? 


'"--•r  "ffTHtftt 


SWcofft^x 


41 


VmnaCmui«     *v*or  IN 


on  ou''  luRN . 


i 


tie  coeo 


--< 


42 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


^•O    MUCH   t.CCA 


1_J  »^l_irvici. 

IWANf    A  CUAMO 


UP  SRMM* 


"■*  «  mt»irrr ' 


All.  HlCHt 


OOMT     TOOCM    IT  ' 


«•  rM/  l>M«ir  f 


»»:  ti»tt.ew 


J 


A.- 


A 


■■%. 


\  WIMII 


* 


«  v-i^J^ 


.4 


./^ 


f  -..♦ 


voux  evtM 


€) 


1^:) 


->— 


I  i_t-i— I  ST 

TAKI   THAT  P»«T 


■ntATt  VOUM 

•ct. 


*I»TCH   It/nil 


A 


mCHl  ON  IT 


1 


mCHT  Tlllt«WCH 


ON  THE  »VTtOM 


k 


IMHf  «*IM.«M  ' 


i 


411  TXt  WAV 


1^ 


T     • 


•  n*Of       MIM 


fAM  »««   HI  THAT  » 


^*^. 


The  Wandcrmg  Yankee. 


43 


^:<'">-'. 


ENCfUSII  AS  SHE  IS  SPELLED  IN 
CANADA. 

srellodthelonirwiv       v  words  are 

'--  at  a  !^,  ellint-nafc    ""^r^^"  'V"?'"  ""' 
r.r  J.    o     .  **  -n.ircn     m  Oanada  instoMfi 

"nm  ov!:'"'-;:"?,'  'r  °""^  """'"  '■"-  ■^-n 

,     o^t'i      by  that  extra  "  jtm  ^     .,  ^aLr.rnn  " 

p,a„,„ .,     ,,,  „     >  i:r;;,x  •■ 

HH     East    Aurora    Philistino,"  would    hav. 
even   more  work  .p  ,.ere,  than  i.e   ha     in   th 
States  in  '^  thnmiv"  carrvf ■'        - 


triciu-ioH  of  the  "ouHi 


ing  us  "thru  "  the 


hjoct  to  orthographical  char, 


gh  *  as  the  ranadJan  do( 


in- 


"^M    I 


n  siK'lling. 


44 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Which  is  right?  "Both?"  Well,  let  it  go  at 
that,  since  both  put  the  same  number  of  L's  in 
the  *'  root  "  of  all  words  as  well  as  "  all  evil. ' 

I  made  this  last  turn  of  words  so  that  I 
might  have  a  reasonable  excuse,  without  preli- 
minary of  telling  you  the  density  of  some  of 
our  people  on 


:i 


The  Money  of  Canada. 

A  man  down  your  way  wrote  to  a 
n'Mv  agency  here  :  "  Get  all  money  chang- 
ed before  sending  it  to  me,  as  I  can't 
use  pounds,  shillings  and  pence."  Now, 
don't  laugh,  for  you  didn't  know  any  bet- 
ter yourself.  I  didn't,  at  any  rate,  before  1 
came  last  June.  Why,  bless  you,  they  have 
cents,  pennies  (two  cent  pieces),  Ave  cents,  ten- 
cent,  twenty  cent  pieces,  quarters  and  half  dol- 
lars, and,  in  bills,  the  only  difference  is,  they 
have  a  four  dollar  bill  which  is  so  like  the  one 
that  if  the  paymaster  has  looked  on  the 
"Scotch"  too  often,  he  is  liable  to  pay  out 
$400  instead  of  flOO. 

While  on  money,  I  must  tell  you  of  the  gene- 
rosity of  the  church  goer.  I  have  often  watch- 
ed the  "  plate,"  and  to  see  on  it  anything  but 
silver  or  paper  is  very  rare. 

How  different  ("  I  shall  tell  it,  so  there  !")  I 
think  it  was  at  one  of  those  rich  churches,  up 
Madison  Ave.  Heber  Newton-— I  think  it  wan 
lleber — started  the  "  plates  "  down  the  aisles 
with:  "Now.  friends,  don't,  I  pray  you,  repeat 
the  donation  of  last  Sunday,— why,  I  thought, 
when  the  plates  came  back,  that  you  all  owned 


The  Wander hw  Yankee. 


45 


stock  in  a  '  Copper  Mine.'  "    After  that  he  itot 
a  regular  Canadian  otlering. 

How  Money  is  Issued. 
Tlie  |1, 12  and  |4  bills  are  issued  by  the  Gov 

T7T"'«?n  t'o  ^''^  "'"'  *^*"*  ^"^'^  *i'<><>'>  bills. 
The  15,  110,  $20,  $50  and  $100  bills  are  issued 

«4  ^^Jln'"-  '^^'^  <^^overnment  also  issue  a 
luO  and  1100  bill.  The  Government  issues  bills 
to   be   used    between   banks,  sort   o'   clearing 

irZ  ^",'1  ""^  -^"^  denominations  of  $500, 
$1,000  and  $5,000.  ' 

In  the  States  we  take  a  check  to  the  paving 
teller  8  window  and  g't  the  cash-here  you  -o 
to  the  "O.K."  window  first,  get  .your 'check 
O.K  d,  then  get  your  cash  at  the  paving  telhu-'s 
window.  The  banks  are  very  conservative 
which  means  that  you  can't  get  their  money  on 
the  same  "wild  cat"  securities  you  can  on  some 
of  the^ew  York  banks.  They  always  want  the 
paper  to  be  of  full  value  when  making  loans 
upon  It.  In  the  case  of  banks  it  is  well  to  be 
"  slow. ' 

ArORAL  MONTREAL. 

I  spoke  of  "Moral  Quebec"  and  gave  as  an  il- 
lustration that  but  one  man  had  been  hung  for 
murder  in  fifteen  years.  This  city  can  show  a 
better  record  than  Quebe.-  by  three  vears. 
There  h..s  been  but  one  man,  Laplaii.e,  to  pay 
the  extreme  penalty  in  Montn-al  within  eigh- 
teen years,  and  he  should  hardly  have  been 
held  accountable  !     Any  man  whose  life  wa«  .u 


46 


The  Waiidcriiig  Yankee. 


Overshadowed  by   13, 


could  scarcely  luive  escaped  all  the  evil 
{,'oinK.  Mr.  ^  Wolff,  City  iTditor  of  the 
"Gazette,"  was  first  to  note  the  oft  re- 
currence of  the  unlncky  (?)  "  13  "  and  following 
it  up,  found  that  it  occurred  in  this  man's  life 
no  less  than  forty  times.  lie  found  thirteen 
letters  in  the  name  of  the  prosecutor  and  the 
same  number  in  the  name  of  the  defender. 
There  were  13  witnesses,  the  chief  one  of  whom 
was  a  13-year  qld  boy.  There  were  13  letters  in 
the  name  of  the  jailer.  On  Oct.  13,  (1901)  13 
days  after  he  was  found  guilty,  and  exactly  13 
days  before  the  day  set  for  his  execution,  a 
short  stay  was  granted,  but  he  was  resentenced 
for  Dec.  13,  and  so  on  down  to  (]!ote  des  Neiges, 
the  cemetery  with  its  13  letters— Odd,  eh  ? 


TAMMANY  HALL  NOT  IN  IT  ! 


I 

Si 
t 


This  morality  does  not  hold  good  during  elec- 
tion time.  1  thought  Tammany  knew  a  few 
things  in  the  line  of  running  elections,  but 
Tammany  will  have  to  go  to  school  several  full 
terms  yet  before  she  knows  enough  to  read  out 
of  Montreal's  primer.  Why,  in  close  elections 
heii»,  they  run  their  candidates  in  by  "  tele- 
graph," as  they  call  it,  whatever  that  is.  "Ah, 
me  I"  said  an  old  "  telegrapher "  one  day : 
"  Mister  Rube,  ye  should  hav  bin  here  whin  we 
telegraphed  as  was  tilegraphin — why,  wan  day 
whin  a  man  I  was  runnin,'  got  scart  an  ses  he 
to  me  sez  he  *  were  gan' — sez  I  to  him  sez  I 
'  Giv'  me  a  fifty,'  sez  I.      He  gav'  me  the  fifty. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  47 

In  tin  minutes  I  had  the  whole  board-inspic- 
tor  and  all-an  tin  dallers  lift  for  contingencies 
in  me  cloze,  wull,  sur,  I  nive.  voted  so  fashed  in' 
me  life  as  I  did  for  the  nixt  half  hour." 
"  Did  jou  get  your  man  elected  ?"  I  asked. 


TILEGERAFFIN  AS   WAZ  TILEGEUAFFIN. 

"Elicted  !"  said  he,  "elicted  is  it  ?  why  he 
wint  m  with  such  a  inejarity  that  the  nixt  inve 
he  wus  up  they  couldn't  git  annybody  to  run 
agin  him  and  he  wint  in  be  acklimation  for  sh  - 
era!  yeres.  Ah,  me  !  thim  wus  the  happy  tili- 
graffin'  days."  And  he  seemed  almost  sad  n 
his  reminiscence. 


48 


The  Wandering  Yimkee. 


On  inquiry,  I  And  that  the  word  "  telegraph," 
means  for  one  man  to  vote  on  another's  name. 
During  the  Feb.  elections  a  one  eyed  member 
of  tlie  "  telegraphers' "  union  olfered  his  vote. 
''^^'hat's  your  occupation?"  asked  the  inspector. 
"I'm  a  railroad  engineer!"  was,  for  him,  the  un- 
fortunate reply.  "  Engineers  must  have  two 
eyes  '"—and  he  was  one  of  a  half  dozen 
sen  I  ..u  prison  a  few  days  since. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  law  here 
is  very  strict,  their  system  of  registration  is  so 
defective  thatiit  can  be  very  easily  beaten  by 
the  professional  "  telegr   jiher." 

hockp:y. 


''  Rube,  did  you  ever  see  Hockey  ?"  asked 
Matt  one  evening.  "  Oh,  yes,  I  know  him  well. 
He's  now  in  the  Bowling  (}reen  bank,  2G  Broad- 
way.    Fine  fellow  that  Hockey  !" 

"  No,  no,  I  don't  mean  that,  I  mean  hockey 
on  ice  !" 

"  Oh,  I  see — No,  I  never  saw  Hockey  on  ice. 
He  was  always  in  th  bank  when  I  saw  him, 
where  he  is  all  right,  but  I'm  'fraid  on  ice  he 
would  be  no  good — he's  ,too  clumsy.'' 
"  Say,  Kube,  does  it  always  affect  you  that 
way?  Now,  if  you  will  only  be  sensible  for  one 
half  minute,  I  will  tell  you  that  hockey  is  a 
game — a  '  game '  played  on  ice — on  ice,  I  say  !" 

"  Oh,  now  I  see — No.  I  never  saw  the  game 
by  that  name.  I've  seen  *  Shinny  on  your  own 
side,'  is  it  like  that  ?" 

"  Just  so,  only  that  it  is  placed  after  ^  per- 
fect system.  There's  to  be  a  game  to-nigh  i,  and 
if  you'd  like  to  see  it  we'll  go.      The  Montreals 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


49 


aiv  to  beat  the  Victorias,  up  St.  Catlieriu,. 
street,  m  the  Arena."  We  went  and  '  now '  I 
have  seen  hockey— and  am  cold  vet.  You  see 
the  game  is  plajed  in  a  great  cohl  storage 
where  you  sit  and  try  to  "  holler "  yourself 
warm.  As  long  as  the  game  is  going  it's  all 
right,  but  whenever  they  stop  to  carry  off  the 
crippled,  you  forget  and  begin  to  freeze,  and 
jusc  before  you  become  one  vast  chillbain,  the 
player  has  had  his  head  sewed  up  or  his  leg  put 
in  splints  and  is  back  on  the  ice,  readv  to  get 
even  with  the  fellow  who  struck  him      ' 


Have  you  ever  seen  humming  birds  flit  from 
llower  to  flower,  extracting  nectar?  Well 
those  humming  birds  are  tortoises  when  com- 
pared to  the  way  those  liockev  fellows  went 
from  one  end  of  that  Cold  Storage  to  the  other, 
ihey  were  always  running  or  skating,  or  flying 
after  a  poor  little  innocent  piece  of  rubber 
which  Matt  called  "  puck,"  and  when  one  or  the 
other  side  got  that  rubber  into  a  place  thev 
called  the  «  net,"  a  man  in  a  wire  cage  would 


50 


The  IVaiidcring  Yankee. 


hold  up  his  hand,  and  they'd  all  have  to  go  back 
to  the  centre  of  the  Storage  and  begin  over.  I 
couldn't  see  anything  to  it,  but,  ah,  how  Matt 
did  seem  to  enjoy  it,  especially  whenever  the 
Montreals  made  the  fellow  in  the  wire  cage 
hold  up  his  hand.  Long  toward  the  last,  how- 
ever, I  saw  Matt  was  very  downcast.  I  couldn't 
see  any  reason  for  it  as  the  game  was  more  ex- 
citing than  it  had  been  since  I  had  first  begun 
to  freeze.  I  tried  to  cheer  him  up  but  it  was  no 
use,  he  just  kept  getting  "down-caster"  every 
minute,  and  watching  the  men  on  the  other 
side  who  were  timing  the  players  to  see  how 
fast  they  could  g6  from  one  end  to  the  other. 
Finally,  these  time-keepers  rang  a  bell  and 
4,137  people  out  of  7,001  in  the  Cold  Storage 
got  up  and  tried  to  raise  the  roof,  but  Matt  sat 
still,  and  said  they  couldn't  do  it  next  time. 
"  Do  wliat  ?"  I  asked. 

"  Why,  don't  you  see  that  the  Victorias  have 
beat  us  !" 

"  Oh  "'  then  I  felt  as  bad  as  I  did  that  day  the 
Koo  S  ars  got  beaten  and  run  out  of  the  Fair 
ground  by  the  Red  Stockings,  of  Springfield. 

Matt  and  I  went  out  with  a  lot  of  Montreal- 
era  who  put  in  the  rest  of  the  evening  telling 
just  how  it  happened. 

Yes,  indeed,  hockey  is  a  great  game — but  i'll 
wait  for  summer  to  see  the  next  match  played 
off. 

Later. — After  all,  the  Montreal  team  won 
the  season's  championship,  both  locally  and  at 
Winnipeg,  where  was  played  the  League  game 
for  the  Stanley  Cup.  Matt  has  been  smiling 
ever  since. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


51 


THE  CANADIAN  GIRL. 

"  A  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  for  ever  !" 

"  Rube,"  asked  the  Colonel,  one  snowy  day, 
as  we  walked  leisuredly  along,  watching  the 


;; 


52 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


downy  flakes  fall,  piling  the  inches  upon  the 
street  and  sidewalks,  "  did  you  ever  see  any- 
thing more  beautiful  than  the  Canadian  girl  in 
a  snow  storm  ?    Watch  her  as  she  braves  the 
weather  as  though  it  were  but  a  spring  morn- 
ing; see  the  heightened  coloring  of  her  cheeks, 
like  the  blush  upon   the  roses  !     No    mincing 
step  is  hers— but  firm  and  strong.      The  winds 
beat  about,    covering   her  with    a   mantle   of 
whiteness,    but    she    heeds    neither  wind   nor 
snow  as  she  moves  majestically  along,  seeming 
not  to  fear  either,  and  to  fully  enjoy  both  ! 
Ah,  Rube,  I  never  before  saw  the  real  beauty 
of  the  Canadian  girl   until  now.      She   is   su- 
P  rb!"  I  had  to  stbp  right  there  and  look  at  the 
Colonel.    Never  before  had  I  seen  him  so  enthu- 
siastic.      We  had  seen  together  many  of  the 
beauties    of   Canada,   its    rivers,    mountains, 
lakes,  forests  and  glens,  but  the   Colonel   had 
ever  looked  upon  beauty  in  his  usual  silence 
until^  this  morning.      All  I  could  say  was :  '*  r.n 
on,  Colonel,  go  on— them's  my  sentiments  !" 

THE  IDEAL  MAN. 

"Rube,"  asked  the  Colonel,  in  one  of  his 
philosophic  moods,  "  did  you  ever  see  the  Ideal 
Man  ?" 

"  Why,  Colonel,  you  talk  like  a  woman.  Who 
ever  heard  such  a  question  asked  of  a  man 
about  man  !" 

"  Well,  did  you  ?" 

"  No.  and  never  expect  to.  My  Ideal  Man 
has  not  yet  arrived.  He  is  the  fellow  who  is  to 
'  Tiove  his  neighbor  as  he  loves  himself.'  He  is 
going  to  be  fair,  and  if  rich  with  other  Luman 


The  Wandering  Yankee,  53 

beings  dependent  upon  him,  he  is  going  to  give 
them  a  chance.      He  is  going  to  give  them  a 
share  of  what  they  help  him  earn  and  not  grind 
them  down  and  make  them  regret  they  ever 
came.      He  is  going  to  have  a  care  for  them 
and,  m  return,  they  will  bless  him  with  their 
every  breath.      They  will  not  strive  to  do  their 
least,  but  their  best  for  him.    He  will  not  hav<' 
to  spy  on  them  for  they  will  work  with  a  heart 
m  their  task.      Such  a  man,  when  he  comes, 
will  be  blessed  among  all  who  know  him.      He 
may  not  be  a  high  churchman,  for,  you  know. 
Colonel,  the  cloak  of  church  often  covers  like 
charity  much  more  than   the   man— principles 
far  from  the  Ideal.      He  will,  moreover,  be  a 
happy  man   as   nothing  short  of  fair  dealing 
with   one's   fellows,  and,   especially,  one's  de- 
pendants   will    brin.i;   true    he      ness.       No, 
Colonel,  the  Ideal  Man  has  not  yet  arrived  !" 

"  Rube,  my  boy,  I  thought  so,  too.  but  I  have 
found  him  here  in  Montreal.  I  didn't  believe 
It  possible  at  first,  but  for  weeks  I've  been 
proving  it  to  myself,  and  in  every  turn  he 
stands  the  test,  until  I  feel  that  after  all  my 
years  of  search  I  am  repaid  with  at  last  finding 
him,  even  though  I  had  to  leave  my  own  coun- 
try in  the  search." 

"By    what    test    did    you    recognize    him. 
Colonel  ?" 

"  By  the  very  one  you  have  just  given  me,  at 
such  length.  He  is  all  you  have  named  and 
more.  He  is  the  one  whom  '  Tom  '  in  vour 
•My  Friend  Bill '  was  ever  looking  for.  Yes, 
Rube,  I  have  found  in  Canada  the  Ideal  Man  I 
would  that  the  ric»  our  own  land  would  fol- 
low hia  lead.     It  x  .  .Id  be  worth  thousands  of 


\ 


54 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


word  sermons.  It's  not  the  telling,  but  the  do- 
ing that  counts— the  example  and  not  the  ad- 
vice that  makes  the  world  better." 

THE  COLLEGE  BOY  FROM  THE  COUNTRY. 

The  college  boy  is  the  same  the  world  over. 
He  usually  comes  in  from  the  country  village 
where  he  is  often  of  quite  as  much  importance 
as  he  thinks  he  is — but  not  always— and  he 
packs  up  this  importance  along  with  his  village 
clothes  and  brings  it  with  him  to  the  college, 
where   he  unpacks   it   and   proceeds   to   own 
things.      By  reason  of  his   coming,  even   the 
Principal  must    bow    to   his    will,  and    make 
things  pleasant  for  him,  else  there  will  be  trou- 
ble. If  he  choose  to  distribute  carmine  over  the 
College  City,  no  one  must  gainsay  this  prerog- 
ative; if  his  College  team  gain  a  victory  over 
some  other  team,  no  matter  how  inferior  the 
other  team,  why,  then,  he  must  devote  the  even- 
ing of  the  game  to  going  about  town  and  letting 
the  victory  be  known  in  ways  that  only  the  col- 
lege boy  can  devise;  if  the  city  authorities  dare 
to  treat  him  as  a  common  mortal  and  take  him 
before  the  Recorder  of  the  City,  he  must  needs 
call  down  upon  his  Principal  ail  sorts  of  things 
for  what  the    Recorder  may  have  done;   and, 
when   he  "gets   out,"  next  morning,  he   must 
call  a  meeting  of  other  college  boys  from  other 
country  villages  and  proceed  to  appoint  a  com- 
mittee to  ask  the  Principal  what  reason  he  has 
for  living  anyhow.      The  Colonel  came  in  one 
evening  and  told  mo  about  a  meeting  of  this 
kind  that  was  to  be  held  at  one  of  the  colleges, 
and  said  it  would  be  as  good  as  a  country  clr- 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


55 

l%oIir7r^''  *""*  ^  ^'''^'  comparison  than 
a     Country  Circus  "  would  have  to  be  made. 

"  Why  do  you  Live  9" 

The  meeting  was  called  to  order  and  the 
boys  proceeded  to  take  themselves  seriously 
The  chairman  after  stating  the  object  of  the 


"Z  -.u  P!'^"^*^^^*'^  to  intersperse  some  of  the 
old  with  the  new-somehow  the  product  of  hig 
memory  (the  "old")  would  not  run  smoothh 

of  u  ^^lZ?^T\'yy^''  "  »«^  ")•  H-re  is  a  bit 
of  it.  "The  lights  in  the  palace  of  the  Record- 
f^r  were  weird  and  dim-the  moon  piercing  the 


r.G 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


•5 


tissue  of  fleecy  clouds  silvered  the  dewdrop»  ou 
the  helmets  of  the  Montreal  Police — and — and 
— but  I  came  not  here  to  talk,  ye  know  too  well 
the  story  of  our  thraldom.  ('  Hear,  hear,'  and 
loud  applause).  Are  we  but  slaves  that  the 
minions  of  the  law  must  lay  vile  hands  upon 
us  ? — No,  my  '  Countrymen,'  I  said  no,  ye  know 
something  else.  Ye  know  that  two  of  our  fel- 
lows were  cast  into  a  dungeon  vile,  last  night, 
and  had  to  languish  till  morning — till  morning 
I  said — and — and  that  was  more  languishing 
than  we  should  allow  them  to  languish — and 
for  why,  Gentlemen  ?  I  said  for  whv  ! — for  — 
why  ?" 

Just  here  he  lost  his  place  on  his  manuscript 
and  became  ouch,  confused  but  started  in  at 
random.  "  T  '11  me,  ye  winged  winds  !"  (*  Yes. 
tell  him!'  from  an  upper  classman  in  the  rear 
of  the  room)  more  confusion,  and  the  "  wind  " 
refused  +o  "  tell  him."  "I  move  we  adjourn  !" 
(from  a  Senior)  "  No,  never  !  I  move  we  appoint 
a  committee  to  visi^^  the  Principal  and  ask 
what  rights  he  has  that  we  are  boun.l  to — to." 
The  mover  forgot  the  rest  of  it  and  sat  down — 
and  thus  it  ran  for  a  half  hour,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  a  committee  was  appointed  to  visit 
the  Principal  and  tell  him  in  plain  language 
that  unless  he  told  them  "  why,"  that  they 
wouhl  all  return  homo,  haul  fodder  and  do  the 
milking  and  other  chores  for  the  rest  of  the 
winter. 

I  never  heard  just  how  it  all  ended,  but  one 
morning,  a  week  later,  I  asked:  "Colonel,  I 
wonder  what  was  the  outcome  of  that  college 
meeting  we  attended  ?"  Before  the  Colonel 
could  reply,  a  young  fellow  across  the  table 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


57 


spoke  up  and  said:  "We  appointed  a  committee 
to  see  the  Principal." 

"  Yes,  what  did  you  do— did  the  Principal 
tell  you  anything  ?" 

"No,— not  a  thing.—  He  even  had  the  au- 
dacity to  ask  us  who  was  running  the  school 
anyhow  !" 

"  Well— well-  and  did  you  tell  him  ?" 

"  No,  (hesitatingly)  not  exactly." 

"  I' don't  see  why  you,  boys,  stand  it  !  Why 
don't  you  expel  him  ?" 

"  We— can't  !  (seriously).  You  see  it's  this 
way:  there's  a  lot  of  rich  men  in  this  town  who 
run  the  college  just  as  they  please,  and  we, 
boys,  haven't  any  thing  to  say  about  it." 

"  Too  bad,  too  bad  !"  and  he  seriously  took 
the  sympathy. 

At  this  writing  the  college  is  still  running 
with  the  same  Principal  at  the  head. 

Too  G-ood  to  be  Out  bo  Late, 
A    ,'ood  story  is  told  of  the   night   the   two 
boys  had  to  "  languish  till  morning."      Just  as 
the  policeman  had  arrested  them,  a  third  boy 
came  up  and  with  much  of  the  afoi-e  mentioned 
importance  told   the   officer  :   "  Here— release 
those  men  at  once,  or  you'll    get  yourself  into 
trouble,  I  am  the  son  of  (mentioning  a  promin- 
ent M.P.)  and  nephew  of  (another  "prominent") 
"  Oh,  I  beg  your  pardon  !"  said  the  officer  with 
much  seeming  humility,  "You  are  the  son  of—? 
and  nephew  of  — ?  Well,  my  dear  boy,  you  are 
really  too  young  and  too  good,  and  too  well 
connected  to  be  out  so   late— so  come  along 
with  me.       Something  might  hapix'n  to  yon, 
something  might  fall  upon  and  do  you  bodily 
:mrm."     And  the  "  good  boy  "  went  along. 


58 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


ij 


I 


■   -M 


i  It 


With  all  the  Canadian  college  boys'  tricks, 
however,  they  are  no  circumstance  to  some  of 
the  old  Wittenberg  tricks  played  by  the  "boys" 
who  haveMong  been  filling  pulpits  at  "$400 
per."  Ah,  those  Wittenbergers!  "They"  were 
the  boys  !  Wish  I  had  time  to  tell  you  of  them, 
but  it's  not  Springfield  but  Montreal  I'm  writ- 
ing about." 

THE  FRIENDS  WHO  GROW  AWAY. 

"RubOj"  casually  remarked  the  Colonel  the 
day  we  came  in  from  the  winter  picnic,  "  I  saw 

on  the hotel  register  the  names  of  some  of 

your  townspeople." 

"  Who  were  they  ?"  I  asked,  not  thinking 
they  might  be  any  whom  I  had  known,  since 
years  so  change  a  city's  directory. 

"  Why,  I  think  their  name  was  X.  Yes,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  X ." 

"  Well,  well,  I  must  go  at  once  to  call.  They 
will  be  so  glad  to  see  me.  I  knew  Mrs.  X 
long  years  ago.     We  were  good  friends  then." 

I  went,  but  returned  shortly.  The  Colonel 
noticed  my  lack  of  enthusiasm  and  wanted  to 
know,  had  I  called. 

"  Yes,"  coolly. 

"  What's  the  matter,  Rube  ?  You  don't 
seem  pleased  that  your  friends  are  in  town, 
weren't  you  glad  to  see  them  ?" 

"  Oh,  yes,  very,  but  Mrs.  X  was  so  changed. 
She  seemed  to  feel  that  she  had  done  all  the 
growing,  and  treated  me  as  though  I  were  still 
the  farmer  boy  from  the  little  home  village. 
She  has  married  a  rich  man,  and  don't  now 
have     to    do      her     own     work,     and     made 


1    i! 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


59 


me    feel    the    growth    away    from    the    oUl 
days.      She    was    so    cold    and    formal    and 
so  rich.      She  still  called  me  Rube,  but  it  was 
not  the  old  cheery  'Rube,'  but  a  languid  patron- 
ising '  Rube,'  as  though  she  felt   our   stations 
were  miles  apart,  and  the  whole   train  stalled 
midway.       She   asked   about  the  village,  and 
talked  as  though  to  the  farmer  bov  of  old,  and 
manifested    no    interest    save    when    speak- 
ing     of     herself     and      her     children      and 
their   doings.        I      came     awav.       She    bid 
me  goodbye,  but  did    not    rise  when   I   was 
going.      She  will  never  see  me  again.      It  is 
thus  we  cut,  from  time  to  time,  from  our  list, 
those   whom   we    once    counted    as    friends 
friends  who  think  that  they  have  done  all  the' 
growing  away,  since  the  long  ago.—" 

'•  It  is  not  always  so  with  the  rich,  think  vou 
Rube  ?"  '  .      » 

"No,  fortunately,  but  you  know.  Colonel, 
some  are  not  fitted  for  wealth,  and  they  can't 
stand  the  contrast.  They  are  prone  to  lay  aside 
the  old  friends  when  the  change  comes,  from 
poverty  to  affluence.  They  can't  stand  the 
cUange." 


THE  MAN  WHO  SWEARS 

Was  also  a  boarder  at  our  house  for  a  time. 
He  wasn't  a  native  and  he  couldn't  be  said  to 
"  swear  like  a  native "  for  Canada  is  not  a 
swearing  nation,— nothing  to  be  compared 
with  our  own  country,— but  he'd  swear  so  easy 
like,  he  seemed  to  enjoy  it,  and  really  went 
about  it  as  though  ho  wore  doing  a  commend 
able  thing.      I  wanted  to  like  the  fellow  and 


60 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


1: 


would  often  get  almost  up  to  the  point  of  liking 
bim  when  he'd  start  in  unconsciously  to  swear 
about  a  trifle  that  should  not  have  annoyed  a 
child,  with  only  half  a  mind.  Then,  again,  he'd 
swear  when  be  wasn't  annoyed,  just  swear  for 
the  pure  pleasure  of  it,  seemingly.  I  never  saw 
him  play  billiards.  Don't  know  what  he'd  have 
said  if  he  had  missed  an  easy  shot,  but  I  can 


i 


HE   MISSED   THE   SHOT. 

imagine.  Did  you  ever  watch  a  billiard  .swear- 
er ?  He's  the  party  who  can  show  the  caliber 
of  his  mental  make  up  if  any  of  them  can  ! 
I've  heard  him  when  he  was  at  his  best  (worst) 
and  if  all  the  things  had  happened  to  those 
poor  inanimate  ivories  tliat  he  nMpicsted 
should  happen  to  them,  I  don't  know  what 
wouldn't  have  hapjM'ned.  I've  seen  that  same 
player  in  the  presence  of  ladies  and  in  mannePj 


The  PVaiidcring  Yankee.  gl 

he  was  a  Chesterfield,  and  a  Carlisle  in  lan- 
guage, but  I  could  never  think  of  him  as  the 
ladies'  man,  but  as   the  billiard  swearer.       I 


ARKIVAL. 

wouldn't  want  to  think  of  him  that  wav.  but  I 
eouldu  t  help  it.      He  means  no  harm  and  is  al- 


I 


02 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


most  invariably  a  good  fellow.  He  has  been 
known  to  swear  in  his  effort  tb  make  you  feel 
that  he  is  a  bigger  man — more  important  man 


DErAUTtUK. 

as  it  were.  He  went  to  see  Lincoln  one  time  on 
a  very  important  matter — was  sent  by  a  promi- 


The  Wandering  I  ankee. 


63 


nent  Senator.  He  wanted  to  impress  Lincoln 
and  8\,  ore.  He  was  fully  successful.  Lincoln 
was  greatly  impressed— so  much  so,  in  fact, 
tbat  the  man  did  not  wait  to  attend  to  the  "im- 
portant matter,"  being  occupied  for  the  next 
few  moments  with  going  out  the  door  which 
Lincoln  very  courteously  held  open  for  him.  He 
told  his  friends  in  a  far  distant  state,  when  he 
got  back  home  from  his  fruitless  trip,  that  he 
had  never  seen  a  man  in  his  life  so  susceptible 
to  quick  impression  as  was  Mr.  Lincoln.  To  his 
more  intimate  friends  he  said  that  the  way  he 
felt,  made  Mr.  Lincoln  seem  a  very  large  man, 
indeed,  as  he  passed  him  going  out  the  dooff 
that  day.  His  neighbors  all  noticed  that  he 
had  entirely  quit  swearing  after  his  return. 

Now,  you'll  think  me  a  "  goody."  Don't,  for 
I'm  not,  but  I'll  like  you  better  if  you  don't 
swear.  It's  useless,  silly  and  don't  make  you 
appear  at  your  best,  and  I  do  like  to  see  a  man 
at  his  best,  for,  at  best,  we  are  bad  enough. 
Don't  swear.  If  you  feel  you  must,  though,  go 
off  quietly  by  yourself  and  have  it  out.  You 
can  get  through  so  much  quicker  when  alone, 
besides  you're  then  not  an  annoyance. 

THEATERS. 


Montreal  has  one  good  English  theater.  It 
has  numerous  play  houses,  but  one,  at  which 
the  best  can  be  seen,  and  at  this  one,  good 
companies  often  play  to  empty  seats.  The 
Montreal  theater-goer  is  a  very  exacting  indi- 
vidual. If  the  Company  is  known  to  be  good 
no  price  is  too  high  for  him  to  i)ay.  If  the  play- 
er has  made  a  New  York  hit  he  is  assured  of  a 


64 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


full  house.  Montreal  careg  more  for  the  New 
York  than  for  the  London  stamp  of  approval 
Reeves  Smith,  for  instance,  came  with  fine 
London  credentials  and  played  a  most  charm- 
ing piece:  "The  Tyranny  of  Tear8"-to  small 
houses,  at  regular  prices,  while  far  less  merit- 
orious actors  drew  well. 

Mrs.  Pat.  Campbell  asked  and  received  near- 
ly double  rates  and  played  to  packed  houses 
1  was  away  until  Saturday  when  she  played  • 
'Beyond    Human    Power."      It    was    a    w.;i 


named  play.  To  have  gone  to  see  it  the  second 
time  would  have  been  for  me  far  "  Beyond  hu- 
man power."      The  only  ones  who  told  me  thev 
enjoyed  It  were  some  small  boys  who  had  cir- 
cused  their  way  into  the  gallery.  I  heard  them 
talking  about  it  on  the  street.     "  Bovs  "  I  asl- 
ed,  "How  did  you  like  the  play  ?"    "   ' 
"  Oh,  it  was  beautiful  !" 
"  How  much  of  it  did  vou  see  ?" 
"Well,"    said    the    spokesboy, '  hesitatingly, 
we  only  got  m  just  as  she  was  dying." 


MM'-M'M 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


65 
to   nsp    thn+  ^*.  P'^-^  ^*^  poor  (I'd   like 

Paris  is,  indeed.'an^'.'^"  To'Le ruT^';  1""" 

Stage  !"  ^^'    -^    ^*"    see   the 


There  is  an  effort  being  made  here  to  limit 

Thecto^els'u'gysTsThaM^^^^^^^^     ?^   ^^^*^^°- 

the  theaters  shS  k  "^  ^^''^  "'  ^^"'e  "f 

"    lut^diers  Should  be  raised  in  "  o.-,-+x,  »    • 


^a?s^id'to\?™''''"^'"''"'^  "<"'*'"•  '»  Mont. 
iTbv  ml  to  be  very  gocKi,  but  .y„„  ,.„„.t      „,.p 


Quebpc-    And  speaking 


01 


66 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
French  as  Sbe  is  Spoke. 


Don't  get  the  impression  that  the  French 
Canadians  speak  only  a  "  patois,"  for  such  is 
not  the  case.  It  may  not  be  exactly  Parisian, 
it  is  more  the  language  as  spoken  in  Normandy 
—but  is  not,  as  so  many  think,  a  "patois,"  that 
a  French  Frenchman  cannot  understand.  The 
French  as  spoken  in  Canada  is  more  generally 
the  same  than  that  spoken  in  France. 


COURT  HOUSE. 

One  day  "  the  only  Percy  "  took  me  to  the 
door  of  his  office  and  pointing  down  St.  James 
street,  showed  me  a  building,  and  said  :  "  This 
county  had  a  good  ConH  House,  but  the  peo- 
ple thought  it  wasn't  high  enough,  so  a  story 
was  added  at  a  cost  of  |1,000,000,  and  there 
hasn't  been  a  tax  payer  found  yet  but  who 
agrees  that  "  that  "  is  high  enough.  Some  of 
the  more  outspoken,  go  so  far  as  to  say  that 
the  "  story  "  is  like  that  of  some  authors,  all 
"  plot."  But  the  building  is  a  very  fine  one, 
and  a  credit  to  the  County.  I  was  glad  that 
story  had  cost  |1,000.000  else  I'd  have  missed 
this  one  of  Percy's. 

CHATEAU  DE  RAME^AY. 

If  there  is  one  thing  the  Colonel  is  or  was 
particular  about  it  is  correctness  in  dates.  The 
first  question  is  :  "  When  was  it  built  ?"  if  it 
be  a  building  we  are  visiting.  This  reminds 
me  of  the  day  we  went  to  see  ChAteau  de  Ra- 
mvmy  up  on  or  over  ou   Notre   Dame  street. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


67 

tZ^L  Z"  ''  '""'  ''  ^'^'^  "'^  Colonel,  of 

in  1705,"  said  Thomas. 

T  nlf  7'  ^''!,^*^^^'  w*^  didn't  come  to  be  jollied 
asked  yon  the  date  of  the  erection  of  this  Cm' 
teau,  and  I  want  to  know  " 

"  Rube,  come  away,  we'll   come  some  other 
day  when  we  can  get  facts."      By  th  s  t  me 
O  Leary  was  getting  out  of  humor,'too  an^  ht 
followed  us  to  the  walk  that  lead's  oui  to  the 

"Now,  see,  here,  I  told  you  Pacts,  I  said  this 
ChAteau  was  built  in  1700  HeVentfpm 
HUNDRED  AND  FIVE  !"  "^'^^''^TEKN 

"Then  why  don't  you  "take  down  that  date 
over  the  door  ?"  asked  the  Colonel,  poin"  ng  „m 
t^a^large  '^1530  "  which  I  hadn't  no^h.!;;  as' ^e' 

rarL"liugTr  '  ''""  '^  ^^^  "^'^*  assistant-lib- 

"thaMs'trT  '?'*'  ^'^  ^'^^^°  *'^  '-'^"'^J  t"'k, 
street.  The  Colonel's  offer,  to  Thomas  and 
me,  1    we  wouldn't  mention  "'this,"   wTs   very 

keep  Since  then,  the  Colonel  is  very  careful 
«ot  to  get  h.s  street  numbers  and  dates  mixed 
If  you  re  a  tourist,  and  have  but  an  hour  in 
Montreal,  and  wish  to  see.  what  to  me,  s  i  s 
most  interesting  feature,  go.  yisit  ChAh'a,'  de 
Ramezay  at  irvlO  Notre  Dame  strtn^t.     It  Im 

looking  for  things  of  ye  olden   times.      Don't 


68 


1 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


stop  in  at    the  corner    just    beyond  Nelson's 
Monument,  thinking  it  the  real  Chateau,  even 
though  you  see  over  the  door  "  Chateau  de  Ra- 
mezay  »  where  one  of  those  small  souls  who  in- 
fest all  cities,  has  put  up  a  sign  of  this  sort,  by 
way  of  cheap  notoriety,  with  the  result  of  de- 
tracting from  instead  of  attracting  custom  to 
his  hole  in  the  wall.  Allowing  this  to  have  been 
done  is  one  of  the  things  which  is  little  credit 
to  the   powers  that  be.      To   the   stranger  it 
seems  a  desecration  of  a  name  that  should  be 
honored  for  association  if  nothing  more. 
This  historic  building   is    now  the  home  of 

THE   NUMISMATIC     AND    ANTIQUARIAN 
SOCIETY  OF  MONTREAL.* 

AMERICANS  IN  MONTREAL. 

I  find  here  hundreds  of  Americans.  Many 
of  whom  are  among  the  leaders,  both  socially 
and  in  business,  as  well  as  in  the  professions. 

Far  up  in  the  railroad  interests  are  such 
men  as  Chas.  M.  Hays,  J.  C.  Ogden,  W.  E. 
Davis,  G.  N.  Bosworth,  R.  S.  Logan,  John  W. 
Loud,  T.  H.  McGuigan.  In  street  railway, 
Colonel  Jas.  McNaught  and  Mr.  H.  H.  Melville 
stand  most  prominent.  In  newspaper  row 
are  such  men  as  August  Wolfe  and  P.  J.  Lor- 
nigan^^of   the  "Gazette;"  C.  F.  Paul,  of   the 

•Note.— This  old  ChAteau  was  of  so  much  in- 
terest to  me  that  I  had  set  up  in  type  ten 
pages  and  space  would  not  allow  its  use,  great- 
ly to  my  regret.  Go,  see  it.  is  my  »inc(>re  ad- 
vice. 


Tke  Wandering  Yankee. 


69 

"Herald/'  ^'  ^^'^  ^""^  ^'  ^'  ^^^"'''^«^«»  of  the 

In  insurance,  S.  P.  Stearns.      1  have  sDoken 

BeTltr  h'  ^-  ^'  Si«e,  the  head  of  the^re" 
Bell  Telephone  system.  ^ 

la  the  ministry  are    found    such    brilliant 
lights    as   Rev.  Dr.  T.  S.  MeWilliams,  of  fre 

Watchorn,  Immigration  Inspector,  two  gentle-^ 
men  of  rare  ability  and  most  genial  nafures 

in  the  professions  are  Professor  Hardman 
who  stands  most  prominent   in   Canada  as  a 
mining  engineer;  Professor  Owens,  of  McSni 
Professor  D.  P.  Penhallow,  also  oi  McOill      ' 

Aot  to  mention  such  names  as  these  would 
be  to  leave  out  of  the  list  many  of  MontTeal's 
prominents:    L.    H.    and    E.    Packard     Robt 
nmrin?'«'  ""^^'/^^-^  Paul,  I.  H.  Stearns; 

U  T\T'  ^'  ^-  ^'^^*^'  A-  ^-  Stongrave 
H.  J.  Fuller,  P.  o.  Gossler,  John  Oalletti 
Oeorge  Hannah,  of  the  Allan  Steamship  "lie! 
Abner  Kingman,  Russell    A.  Alger,  jr.^nd- 

makV  «    .        '*fP  «om.  where  he  will  have  to 

TokH  I  ''^'""^    ^^^'^    «"''    t^o  volume 

books,  he  says,  are  not  the  proper  thing,  and 

The   rest  of  the   Colony   must   forgive   n,e 
there's  no  oflfonse-I  love  Vm  all.  ' 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  IT." 

"  O  wad  some  powor  the  giftie  j,ne  us 
To  see  oursels  ixs  ithers  see  us." 

It  was  in  the  smoking  compartment  of  tlie 
parlor  car,  on  the  C.P.R.  Short  Line,  that  day  I 
went  up  to  Ottawa,  to  attend  tlie  openiu<;  of 
Parliament,  that  I  saw  "  It."  Ah  !  it  was  a 
rare  treat  !  "  It "  sat  at  the  end  of  the  seat 
next  the  window,  and  talked  so  loud  that  we 
could  hear.   ''It"  wanted  us  all  to  hear,  for  "It" 


was  saying  wise  things  to  the  young  man  in 
t\y<'ed,  who  ever  replied  in  a  low  tone,  not 
wishing  to  detract  from  the  brilliancy  of  "It." 
I  soon  gathered  that  "  It  "  had  been  to  '  Lun- 
nan.'  ''  Dear  ole  Lunnan,"  and  had  met  some 
of  us  "  Stupid  Ahmcrikans,"  who  were  being 
Wiven  a  delicate  touch  in  "  It's  "  most  scathing 
manner. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


71 

anvIhZ^^'^H^^^^  "^^  •      T'^^y  '^'dn't  know 
anything  outside  of  the  most  audinary.       if 

usf  "  fl      .'^  t  ^^"^  "^  ^  P>«^  it  w««  ^'  fine," 
just  "  fine."       Really,  absolutely  !" 

You  nevah  can  take  them  out  to  dinn-ih 
they  don't  know  how  to  act  at  table     No  ttt^ 
munnahs,   really,   absolutely,   none       Ah  te 
but  no  wundah  they  ah  all  so  new.    It     a^ej 

abruteT;..*^  ^^^^"^^  ^^-'  ^^'^^'  '^11 

"  I  met  a  gentleman  in  Lunnan.      He  said 

ve    IZ  ''^'"f '  ^^"'  ^^  '^'-^  Canadah,  a  Id 
.  «'t  so  like  us->8,'  he  said,  'I  was  like  the.^ 

allvTh"?  .'?'"'  ^"^  ^^*  ^-™  cLadah    re 

mn/  r,;I''Vi^'-^*"^"^^-    ^'«^  hahs  no 
mind.     All  he  hahs  is  body.     Body  lots  of  if 
but  nc  mind,  R.  A."  ' 

fo,t^lf'  ^^-'"'^  ^"*"'^'^  demolished  us,  and  be- 

wanted  to  know  of  his  friend.  "  You  re  illv 
don't  mind  of  I  smoke  my  pipe-now  reu II v"^ 
Then  the  wisdom  continued  :--  Ah  !  th(^  dead 
narrah  existaunce  of  some  lives  !  I  «^  „otlf 
i"«  but  Aht  in  life.  It's  the  develop  „ent  of 
«en  ewru^.  The  humdrum  existaunce  Inov-n 
c^ould  enduah.    I   love  music  ahnd   the "lay! 

tah'^'R.T"  ^  ''^*"'"  ^^"'  ^""  ^'""'^  ^^t  ^-^■ 
The  French  came  in  for  their  share.     If  anv 
lung  they  were,  in    his    ,„ind  (?).  ocn.pvh  ,   a 
lower  plane  than  we,    poor  misguided 'imori 

U  "n?""'!  ?!'"'*  ""'^^hstand  Shakespeah,  real- 
.>,  absolutely.      They  ah  so  tieh.ome.      Thev 
Havn't    a    thought.       They    use    wuds,  nia^y 


il 


72 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


many  wuds,  but  they  cahn't  think,  don't  cher 
know  !  I  nevah  cou'd  undahstand  them. 
They  stand  out  alone.  The  ideah  !  So  sad, 
awfully  sad— really,  absolutely  !"  And  so  ''  It  " 
ran  on.  I  lost  "It"  at  the  Ottawa  station. 
From  whence  "  It  "  cfime  or  whither  "  It  "  was 
going  I  may  never  know.  Should  "It"  go  on  and 
ever  on  even  beyond  Canada  and  drop  into-  the 
great  ocean  that  borders  the  Dominion  to  the 
west,  "  It  "  would  be  safe.  "  It "  is  too  light 
to  drown,  and  yet  "  It "  took  itself  "really,  ab- 
solutely "  serious. 

To  the  outside  reader  I  would  say  don't  take 
•'  It  "  for  a  type  of  Canada— for  while  "  It  " 
nmy  have  been  picturesque  "  It "  was  "  abso- 
lutely and  really  "  unique. 

What  a  grand  contrast  was  the  people  I  saw 
in  Ottawa,  gathered  as  they  were  from  all 
parts  of  the  Dominion  to  attend 

THE  OPENING  OF  PARLIAMENT. 


The  ladies  sitting  near  me  —  some  of 
whom  were  Americans  —  told  me  they 
had  seldom  seen  a  finer  body  of  men.  It  may 
have  been  true,  and,  no  doubt,  was,  but  the 
magnificently  gowned  women  blinded  the  eyes 
of  niiin  for  men.  These  women  were  not  only 
beautifully  gowned,  but,  in  manner,  face  and 
form  almost  regal.  There  were  types  of  beauty 
I  have  rai-ely  seen  in  any  land,  but  what  was 
more  pleasing  still,  was  the  ease  of  manner  of 
these  Canadian  women — wives,  daughters  and 
friends  of  the  members. 

Could  you,  who  think  of  Canada  and  "The 
Lady  of  the  Snow "  in  one  and  the    same 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


7.". 


thought,  have  looked  with  roe  down  from  the 
gallery,   upon   tlmt   galaxy  of   beauty   in   the 
d^colletd  of  a  Worth  or  a  Felix,  you  would  not 
wonder  that  Dana  Gibson  was  in  Ottawa,  the 
guest  of  Lord   Minto,  the  Governor-General  of 
(  anada,  seeking  new  types,  or  the  perfection 
in  woman  for  which  he  has  long  sought     "  Am 
I  an  enthusiast  ?"  without  any  question    I  an- 
swer "  yes."  I,  who  like  many  of  you,  had  once 
thought  of  Canada  as  everything  else  than 
wliat  It  18,  can  scarcely  realize  what  I  am  ever 
finding  that  is  new  and  pleasing  in  this  beauti- 
fu    North  Land,-de8tined  to  grow  side  and 
8idewith   our  own  Vast  Domain.    I  was  in- ^ 
debted  to  Hubert  Manley  for  the  rare  pleasure 
of  this  opening  day.    "Come  up  to  Ottawa, 
Knbe,    wrote  Manley,  "  and  you  will  see  some- 
thing  you  will  enjoy."      To  you  who  know  this 
genial  host,  and  in  himself  he  is  a  host,  I  need 
not  tell  you  that  I  could  not  have  thought  of 
the  real  pleasure  he  gave  me  in  his  everv  court- 
esy.     He  had  secured  for  me  the  best  position 
in  the  gallery  for  seeing  everything  to  the  best 
advantage-the  throne  to  the  right,  with  a  full 
view  of  every  part  of  the  Senate  floor  below 
where  sat  the  members— the   leaders  of  tlu' 
Dominion— their  wives,  daughters  and  friends. 
By  a  strange  coincidence  the  pleasure  of  it  all 
was  greatly  enhanced  when  I  found  that  the 
beautiful  woman  at  my  left  was  a  distant  cou- 
sin from  Sacramento,  California,  who,  like  mv- 
self,  was  visiting  Canada   for   the   first   time 
Strange,  for  neither  of  us  knew  that  the  other 
was  in  Canada,  and  only  chanced  to  meet. 

It  is  not  my  province  to  describe  the  cere- 
mony of  the  oimning.  It  was  after  the  manner 


74 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


of  the  OiK'uinj;  of  Pai'liainont  in  London— the 
};or};eo»i8  di-ess  of  the  olllcers,  bishops  and 
members  of  tlie  foreifyn  consnls  was  a  revehi- 
lion  to  me.  I  liad  never  thon^ht  to  see  an.v- 
liiinfj;  so  Koyal  on  tlie  Ameriean  Continent. 
The  ceremony  was  very  impressive  and  very 
beantiful.  After  it  all,  thronjrh  the  kindue^'.8 
of  my  host,  I  met  many  of  the  ministers  and 


PAULIAMENT    HILL   FUOM  THE  IJIVER. 

members  from  all  parts  of  the  Dominion.  They 
compared  most  favorably  with  our  own  Senate 
at  Washington. 

I  was  fortunate  durinj;  the  ceremony  in  be- 
ing near  *'  Inez,"  wh(>  seemed  to  know  by  name 
every  lady  of  note  on  the  Son:>^e  tloor  below, 
and  very  kindly  pointed  them  out  to  me.  They 
had  nearly  all  entered  and  were  seated,  when 
through  the  door  to  the  left  of  the  "throne  " 


The  IVandcring  Yank 


u'c.  75 

enterod    a    beautiful  wonim    i..    ..    i       i 
white  Hutin  jrown,  with  u  hand  painted  desiin, 
across  the  front  of  the  skirt       Ti.»  i!   i-        ^ 

"TliaV'said  In™,  "i8L,„iv  Minto  wife  „f 

;-.-,„«  ri,  ii';:i",.:::':,!T;'«  .^nrS 

Launer,  the  PremiPi-    «f    ri        i     V     """'" 
^^11 «.  ^V.  C.  Edwards,  Mnie.  B,q„„o    Mrs    T..»V 

/•  *u.ldi„K,  „1,„  an.  „„  |,„„„,  ,„  H,"  h,;,,  "J 
Fvan^oli,,.,  ,vif..  a„d  ..a„«l,„.,,  „/,",' 

f       ,  '""J^t^VIapinn,    Miss   (^hurrh.      -  ft<,.  •• 

>t      o  Hon.  Frederl.k  I).  Monk,  who    nou  s< 
vnnndK  von  of  your  ^.re^t  Joseph  (MuV         V   ," 
•n-ador  to  England,  ami  who\n  v  1        .r,  .    . 
o,   HO  „„u.h  admire.    Did  Mnnlev  tell  you  tl    t 
iHMs  tlu.  Leader  of  the  ronservati,:NH.%^ 


76 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


lie  is,  indwd,  a  most  affable  and  capable  man." 
Then  she  obntinued  to  point  out  the  notable 
ladies:  Madame  J.  H.  Caajfrain,  Mrs.  Laviolette, 
Mrs.  Frederick  Cook,  Mrs.  (Vx-.hrane,  Mrs.  Mac- 
kay  and  daughter,  Miss  Mackay,  Mrs.  (iibson, 
W\m  Hobson,  Mrs.  Hendry,  Mrs.  S.  E.  Dawson, 
Jlrs.  A.  E.  Fripp,  Mrs.  James  MaeGregor,  Mrs. 
Cockbnrn  Clemow  and  Miss  Gwendoline  Cle- 
mow,  Miss  Seymour,  Mrs.  M.  P.  Davis,  Miss 
Davis,  Miss  Frances  Sullivan,  Mrs.  Dale  Ilar- 
riss,  Mrs.  Duncan  Macpherson,  the  Misses  Van 
Straubenzie,  Miss  Hays,  Mi-s.  J.  P.  Feather- 
stone,  Mrs.  Boyd,  (England);  Mrs.  Geo.  Bryson, 
3Iiss  Lingham,  Mrs.  Neilson,  Miss  Briggs,  MrH. 
Melvin  Jones,  Miss  Melvin  Jones,  the  Misses 
Kerr,  Mrs.  Walter  Mpckay,  Miss  Flood,  Mrs. 
Casgrain,  (Windsor);  Mrs.  Thompson,  Mrs. 
D'Arcy  Scott,  and  Mrs.  Fleming. 

''  Have  you  named  them  all  ?"  I  asked,  "  I 
don't  think  you  mentioned  Mrs.  Fisher,  the 
^finister's  wife."  Inez  only  smiled  and  sur- 
prised me  by  saying:  "There  is  no  Mrs.  Fisher 
— yet."  You  who  were  not  there,  may  want 
to  call  me  to  account  for  this  mentioning  of  all 
the  ladies,  but  had  you  looked  down  upon  that 
galaxy  of  lovely  women,  you,  too,  would  have 
felt  as  I;  "They  are  all  worthy  of  special  men- 
tion." I  did  not  see  in  all  the  number  any 
whom  I'd  wish  to  class  as  "  And  others." 

Looking  down  from  the  vice-regal  box  in  the 
gallery,  watching  the  ceremony,  were  Mr. 
Charles  Dana  Gibson  and  his  beautiful  wife, 
with  their  friends,  Mrs.  and  Miss  Dent  and  Mr. 
Lionel  Guest. 

When  I  left  that  night,  I  felt,  "What  a  rare 
treat  is  in  store  for  me  !    To  write  of  Ottawa 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  77 

will  be  a  ploasurp,  indcod  !"    Evorv  one  1  m.t 
™  -0  kind,  and  ,1,0  .U,  «„  boaaTm,,,  t  ,at  I 

»r.t.ng  „f  tbem  a„„  thnr  i..te,..«„;;;';;:„;t"'' 

MEMBERS  OP  PAUMAMENT 

J^r.T^ry  ""'"""'"  "'  P«'-lia,n,.nt  re- 
siding   in    Montria  .      With    ns   nt    !.„.„„ 

i«    the    district    he    represents,  or,  a      lels 
nommall, ;  no^  so  here.    A  man  nmv  be  a  re 

sTat    f  "'  'v"^"""'  '"^'^  ^^*  t»-  elected  for  a 

Thus  He    find    Hon.  Thomas  Chase  Cas,Main, 
^•'■,    LL.D.,    representing    Montmoreney-    j 
Ah'xander    Camille    Madore,    B.C.L      Hoehe" 
UMu;  ex-Afayor  Joseph  R.  p.  Prefonfaine   Mat 
sonneuve  and  Terrebonne;  Frederick    Mon'k 
i^^.U    i).C.L.,  Jacques  Cartier;  Emile  Leonard 
,    Lava  ,  Island  of  Montreal.       a„  of  these  re 
-^  in  rhe  city,  yet    represent    other    ^  ace  ' 
The    members     for    the   citv    .in«    fi    *^  „   **" 
Joseph  Israel  Tarte    PC     i    It     .        ^''"• 
tnencv  P   r    »    ii-  ,     t'  ^^'  ^^'^^f^  consti- 

lerv    S't    Ann  ^     n't'  ^'-  ^°*«^"^''  ^^'d-  «al- 
iery,  St.  Anne's;    Robt.    Bickerdik<..  St    Law 

sToT  't  "  h'  •'Tp"  ^^"'^'^^'  «*•  •'---^^" 

Pubiic  ^^kf  "•  ''^-  ^^^*^  -  «'-  Minister  of 

As  stated  elsewhere  Frederick  D.  Monk  is 

Provte'^  ''  *'^  Conservative  party  for  thL 


78 


The  Wandc,  ing  Yankci 


THE  REAL  STATUS  OF  THE  CANADIAN 
AS  A  FKJHTEK. 

I  had  heard  much  of  the  prowesi*  of  the  Ca- 
nadian as  a  man  of  war,  but  I  had  never 
known  his  real  fljfhtinj^  status  until  one  day  at 
the  boarding  house  table.  Ah  I  thei-e's  the 
place  you  learn  things.  Things  you  i  an't  find 
in  books,  or  anywhere  else,  are  discussed  and 


"so  CON  'a  the  bairns." 

decided  conclusively  at  the  table  of  a  typical 
boarding  house.  Never  go  to  a  hotel,  if  you 
have  an  inquiring  mind  and  want  to  learn 
things.  No,  go  to  the  aforesaid  "  typical  "  and 
yon  will  learn  all  about  it.  No  matter  what 
"  it "  it  is,  on  which  you  want  full  informa- 
tion,   you    may    gain    it,    here.    But    about 


The  H'andcrmg  Vankrc. 


tli«     ''flKhtinjr     Htat. 


Tlu 


in-in     vvui      ..  ^     ""^     "•'*    Canadian  !" 
other    Z    Te\''"     '»f«'n„ation,     at     the 

"'    «outh     An-iea    In'      fiit^'''^^\vr''''""^ 
Tliose  English  are  not  i?  ,         '^    '''*^-^'- 

I  felt  very  grateful  to  the  man  uiH.  fh«  t 
--and  this  was  something    T   ronl.i  nJ    i 

Zm  '"i^r-^i  '■•"'"  -v  ot.,:rJir'i:;':;; 

uuing   tlie    Colonel,  after   dinner  •—"  vi.    -/ 
;-'   na  min'  th'  mon  wnth  th'Tnllan.;  1^ 

ither  bairns  o'  hi^a'ut^  ll^'J!''  ««  ^^"  "- 

THE  STAR  BOARDER  WITH  THE  GH/r 

CUP. 

hAr^'M''  *"'^  *^  '»™'  ^»t  I  «oo„  saw  that 
he  thought  me  out  of  his  class.  ""^ 

it  s  been  a  pleasant  dav  "  on,'/i  t 
inff  at  the  table  "    ^""'^  ^'  ''"^  ^^^^n- 

;;  Beg  youah  pahdon  !"  said  he.         ' 
it  s  been  a  pleasant  day,"  I   rcneatorl    n«f 
Wishing  that  he  should  lose  mv  opi  ,ion  ^  "h 
^:IZ  '-''''''''  leather   we4  ir^t" 
''Yes,  so  I  heard,"  and   he   looked   through 


so 


The  Wandering  Vankee. 


U- 


n 


! 


and  beyond  me,  not  allowing  his  gaze  to  stop 
at  where  I  was  sitting.  Although  I  knew  him 
to  be  the  Star  boarder,  yet  I  would  make  him 
talk  to  me.      So,  I  'ontinued: — 


"  WALK   THIS   WAY. 

"  You  have  a  fine  city." 
"  I  beg  younh  pahdou  ; ' 
"  I  say  you  have  a  tine  city." 
"  Oh,  have  I  ?" 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  gi 

No  use  he  wouldn't  talk.  I  couldn't  get  him 
further  than  « I  beg  youah  pahdon  !"  Then  I 
was  sure  he  was  a  bank  president,  or  some 
high  railroad  official,  or  possibly  one  of  the 
city  aldermen,  at  any  rate,  I  felt  myself  wither- 
ing m  his  presence,  and,  thereafter,  took  a 
seat  furthest  away  from  him.      One  day  I  had 

ToZT^^''  ^"^  *"*°  ^"^  ^^  *'^*^  ^^'^^  «^<>re«  for 
some  trifling  purchase,  when,  who  should  meet 

me  just  inside,  but  this  Star  boarder.     "  What 

do  you  wish  ?»  I  was  so  surprised  to  have  him 

ask  the  question  that  I  followed  the  regular 

custom,  and  said  :  "I  beg  youah  pahdon,"  but  '" 

'TTff' :?  ^'"^  *  pad  of  pencil  paper." 
>V  alk  this  way,  please." 

We  being  built  on  different  lines,  I  found  it 
impossible,  but  I  followed  him  down  through 
sev-eral  aisles  to  the  "  pad  "  counter,  where  L 
told  one  of  the  clerks  in   his   usual   haughty 
mein  :  «  Pad  o'  pencil  !"  and  there  he  left  me- 
to  find  my  way  out  alone.      Not  until  then  did 
It  dawn  upon  me  how  presumptuous  I  had  l>een 
f^ii'l    Zu^  him-why,  I  had  as  well  tried  to 
talk  to  the  one  important  personage  of  mv 
home  village-the  feeder  of  the  threshing  ma- 
ehme  or  the  man  who  runs  the  cider  press. 

Moral,  know  your  man  In^fore  vou  try  to  be 
agreeable.  '  j  "»  "t? 


"  SHOPLIFTING  "-A  PINE  ART  IN 
MONTREAL. 

They  are  no  novices  who  ply  their  trade 
among  the  Christmas  shoppers  here.  No  thev 
aiv  artists,  as  instance  the  well  drt^ssed  ladv 
(7)  who  was  being  watched  by  the  high  priml 


82 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


\l 


detectives  in  ouc«.f  the  large  depart laent  storeg. 
They  saw  her  deftly  taking  arti«  Ich  and  vixn- 
lesslv  dropping  thoni  beneath  her  huge  cloak. 
NN'hen  they  Jmd  collected    sufficient    evideme. 
they  i>olitely  asked  her  into  the  private  offlr-c 
Hhe  went  without  hesitation.     How  fortunate. 
A  well  known  city  judge  was  in  the  store  at 
the  titw.    He  was  sent  for— they  #ouM  hold  a 
preliminary  trial.  He  came,  sat  down  in  the  of 
lice  cbair.     "  Now,  my  dear  lady/'     llw*  judg«* 
was  a  very  Cliesterrield   of   politeness—"  I  re 
gret  exceedingly  that  we  have  the  vcjy  painful 
duty  of  puttJBjf  you  in  the  very  embarrassing 
situation  of  Iwing  sea»'<hed." 

'•  Oh,  my  dear    dear  Judge,  don't  mention  it. 
— No     embarrassment  ,  whatever  -Here 


the   lady   searcher—"  let     the 
The  "  embarrassment 


on 


!•' 


'  -to 
good  work  go 
w;iH  all  on  the 
other  sid<'— not  a  thing  was  found  nnd  (he  wo- 
man had  to  be  released. 

Later  on,  when  the  Judge  was  thiough  his 
shopping,  he  returned  to  the  office  for  his 
great  fur  coat,  which  he  had  left  earlier  in  the 
evening,  as  the  store  was  warm,  and  putting  it 
on  found  every  one  of  tlie  stolon  articles  in  his 
pocket.  To  have  traniifi*rred  these  articles  to 
the  pocket  of  the  Judge-  who  was  to  try  the 
ease— while  in  the  presen<e  of  the  detectives, 
certainly  can  «'ome  under  no  other  head  than 
that  of  a  fine  art. 


NAMES  OF  Fl'NKHAL  ATTKNDAXTH. 


Funernis  in  Tanada  are  very  largely  attend- 
ed, unlike  in  our  cold,  practical  cair  only  for- 
yourself  country.      And  again,  unlike  with  us, 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


83 

the  newspapers  in  ropoi-ting  the  funeral  exer- 
|J«^s,  K.V.'  the  names  of  those  in  attendance, 
If  at  all  i>o88ible,  so  that  the  bereaved  family 
may  see  whom  they  may  look  u,>on  as  theiV 
fnends,  and  lay  away  the  list  of  those  friends. 
It  softenK  the  sorrow  to  feel  that  when  d("ath 
taken  away  a  loved  one,  your  friends  have  sor- 
rowed with  you. 


Mourninfir  Kmbleta. 

The  Canadian  does  not  jrenerally  indicat,.  his 
or  her  grief  by  exi)ensive  black.  A  simple  band 
of  black   worn  around  the  left   arm   bv   b(,tl, 
.uen  and  wo.nen  is  all  the  mark  of  mJurning 
fo      departed    fr.e„<ls.    nave     in     .ertain     h^. 
stances  where  the  widow  wears  full  mourniuK, 
i  H  vv.th  us,  but  not  always,  the  band  answer- 
»"?;  the  same  purpose.      This  ban<l  custom  pr.'- 
vails  at  honu.  for  a  member  of  a  fraternitv  or 
H<»<'«e<.v,  but    here  it  is  the  gc-m-ral    badg,:    of 
"'ounnnjf.      It  is  so  much  better  than  the  full 
<IreHs  of  mouniing,  t,»o  often  worn  for  fashion 
•atl.er  than   for  sorrow,  besidcH   It    is  an  ex- 
iM-nse  very  ofk-n  burdensome. 

THE  NEWSPAPERS. 

The  Montreal  newspajK-rs  are  up-to-date, 
<he  larg,.r  number  <,f  th,.,n  having  the  most 
npprov..d  ma.hinery  of  the  day.  in  the  way  of 
type-setting  machines,  and  pivsses.  There'are 
but  two  Sunday  papers:  the  "  Sun,".-Eng- 
gligh-and  "Les  l)(n»ats,"-Fren.h,  but  Mont- 
real IS  w,.|l  8„p,,ii,.,i  fn.m  New  York,  whose 
palmers    are    had    here    before    Sun.lav-school 


■t;'»i.-.:tf . 


84 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


time.  The  newspapers  are  very  well  conduct- 
ed and  seem  prosperous.  They  are  like  the 
New  York  "  Times."  They  print  "  all  the 
news  that  is  fit  to  print."  They  do  not  all 
lean  so  far  to  the  side  of  the  Puritan  as  the 
"Witness."  Why,  they  say  it  won't  take  an  ad- 
vertisement "  piano  for  sale,"  unless  it's  f7/»- 
right,*  and  would  throw  out  a  full  market  re- 
port unless  the  "  whiskey  is  steady."  It  does 
much  good  all  the  same,  going  into  the  homes 
of  the  best  people  throughout  the  city  and 
I>oniinion. 

MUSICAL  MONTREAL. 

When  I  asked  the  Oolonel  to  look  up  the 
musical  people  of  the  cit>  while  I  was  down 
home  talking  to  the  school  children  about 
(^anada,  he  said  :  "  What  do  /  know  about 
music  I"  It  reminds  me  of  a  friend  of  mine 
whom  I  once  heard  talk  on  that  subject.  Said 
this  friend  :  "  Apropos  of  music,  if  there  is  any- 
thing in  the  world  that  will  make  a  woman 
honest  it  is  marriage.  Now,  I  well  remember 
a  young  lady,  living  in  Brooklyn,  who  used  to 
allow  me  to  sit  and  sing  by  the  hour  to  her,  and 
she  used  to  sigh  and  sigh,  and  say.  '  Oh,  what 
a  lovely  voice  you  have  !'  and  so  flattered  me 
about  ray  singing  that  I  fell  in  love  with  her 
and  we  got  married.  Now,  she  won't  even  let 
me  sing  to  the  baby,  she  says  it  is  so  trying  to 
the  dear  child's  nerves." 

Well,  I  left  the  Colonel,  at,  I  remarked  be- 

•Note — When  one  of  the  Editors  saw  this 
little  pleanantry,  h*' wittily  remarked  "we  take 
anything  tbftt's  "  square." 


■iMl 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


85 

v^:/"  ^^?^  "^*^^'  "  ^^^»«ieal  Montreal,"  and  if 
ou  d  see  l„s  report  you'd-well,  I  won't  give 
t,  for  I  want  the  Colonel  to  be  Allowed  to   I 
«am  zn  town.      You  nee,  he  had  been  rai^d 

ttstnal    and    made    money  enough    to    buy  a 

education  had   been  so  sadly  warned   bv  thnt 

'r-t^' ;" -''^  '-r'  ^-  ^«^  «^"'-  with 

"oL   h,^    •  ^^J^^^-^tl'^-rs  singing  ••trombone" 

on  h  gh  seas."  I  censured  the  Colonel  very 
severely,  and,  I  think,  he  feels  it  deep^^  as  1  e 
^*^loHld.       ]i„t,  then,  levity  aside    ^//     .1 

lun{\-H  ^^^""^r"'  '""•'■  ^''  ^*^"  ^•'"^^^d  a  mu- 
8J«a  cty,  ,„  fa,.t.  I  have  found  Canada  « 
niusic-loving  eountiv  Tf  """  '  anada  a 
iRM»nio     /       i*'a  "i.\.       It  seems  born  in  the 

atten hon  ,s  pa.d  to  it.  and  excellent  results 
are  shown.      I  have  spok.^n  elsewhe"o  of   t  , 

1  ^i,f^t'^^^"'""''^--'-'^- 
Iuu    ]  a^.  by  the  schoo.  children,  under   the 

Hnp«'rv,s,o«  of  Professor  Smith.       J,  is  a  s.m 

^   "t«,  attracting  students  from,  not  only  the 
I  omnnon,  but  hundreds  of  our  o.v„    a  :  , 
dn.n  com.  here  from  the  States.     This  wil    b' 
more  of  a  n.usical  Me.-ca  than  ever,  now    h' 
he  fame  of  the  Royal  Vh-toria  Col  ege  is  g^ 
iiig  abroad.  ^         *»" 

Among  iiH.  ,i„j.,.,„  ^j.^^  ^  riollinshead 

«  ands    fairly  at    the    head  among  so^nos 

^   H  .am  Shakespeare,  who  speaks    of    her  re- 
"mrkable  talent,  that  her  voice  is  o„e  of  veTy 


80 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


lare  loveliness  and  great  power.  Her  singing 
has  been  warmly  applauded  both  in  England 
and  in  America.  She  is 'a  great  favorite  in 
Montreal,  whei-e  she  is  the  soprano  soloist  of 
the  Church  of  St.  James  the  Apostle. 

The  place  among  sopranos  held  by  Miss 
Hollinshead,  is  held  by  Miss  Jeanie  Kaukiu 
among  contraltos.  The  moment  slie  rises  to 
sing  she  insfils  a  pleasant  confidence  in  her 
listeners.  I  shall  never  forget  the  first  night 
I  heaxl  her  sing  in  the  American  Presbyterian 
('hur(  h,  when'  by  chance  I  wandered  and  took 
a  seat  in  the  gallery,  I  was  so  pleased  that  I 
forgot  to  go  out  when  the  others  did,  but  was 
repaid  by  hearing  the  practice  of  the  choir  in 
which  her  voice  played  a  rich  part.  I  didn't 
mind  at  ail  finding  myself  locked  in.  and  hav- 
ing to  grope  my  way  out  througli  the  dark 
Sunday  school  rooms  in  the  rear,  for  I  had 
heard  Miss  Jeanie  Kankin  sing— a  pU'asure 
which  has  oft(MJ  since  hccii  mine — ji  pleasun* 
enhanced  by  the  sermoi*  >f  K<>v.  I>r.  T.  H.  Mc- 
Williams,  the  young  Kt  u; cky  minister,  heard 
between  solos. 

.Miss  Sadie  Dowling.  singing  at  Knox 
riuuM'iJ,  has  a  very  sweet  contralto  voi«i*  and 
a  most  charming  personality.  Hers  is  a  voice 
of  rare  promise. 

Miss  Florence  Wishnrt,  anothi-r  contiallo 
soloist.  Church  of  St.  Janu'S  the  .\|»os(le,  only 
numbers  her  admirers  by  those  who  hear  her 
]>leasing  voice. 

Miss  Fannie  Pringle,  formerly  of  Toronto, 
is  a  valuable  acquisition  to  Montreal's  nni- 
sical  circles,  and  possesses  a  remarkably  pure 
soprano  voice  of  exceptionally  high  compass. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


87 
Space  will  not  permit  of  detail,  but  it  must 


ORGANISTS. 

musician    at  D.'  ^  ^^^?^"'  «»  enthusiastic 
PresbXian     /^B^^^^^  Cburch-8t.  Paul 

Cathedral     F     r  '*'''''    ^^'"^*'«    Church 

atneoral,    E.    Broome,   American     Pi.e«hvf» 

ms  given   in   Montreal.      Prof    T    .  V 

JolfnTrberi  t^o^'^\  '''^'''^'^  C''"-''- 
The  Pelletio..  i      M      !      •  '^""'''"  ^'•''  '^I">stl«^ 

Madnate  of  Pans,  ,«  a  most  oxco]]e,.t  arlist 
^  "'  plays  at  St.  Louis  de  Pran.e  M-  f  r  t 
Hh..,,  of  St.  Ann's,  is  „,«o  d.oir  n.aste r  m, 
elioir  of  young  men  are  v^'vU  traim.I  ' 

>2n  m7/  .  ''"'^    ''*f  *'"'-^'    ^"'^''"<>    ^he    alH,ve 
^nrio^H'r    ''•"*''  "'"   announced  ,.T,.,v 

el  "red         "'^'^•"f^""'«^     '""     "HH    often     been 

lie  as  m/"''"^'''''"''^"  ^"^"  ^^•'"•'•1  >^""«"  Peo- 
ple as  Madame  Nordica,  Mile  ramilN-    f>L 

f ""  Oerardy,  Stanley,  the    Kngl "      -o.,  ist' 

and  many  others  famous  in, he  u„,.i;;;;:;;:;;i: 


(I 


88 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


hi 


■  t 

I. 


Among  choir  masters,  Coroner  Edmund 
MfMahon  ably  eondiuts  the  great  choir  in  the 
Church  of  Notre-Damo. 

Professor  G.  Couture  conducts  the  choir  of 
St.  James  Cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  choirs 
in  the  city,  with  E.  Ix?bel,  first  tenor;  Mendoza 
Langlois,  first  baritone;  and  J.  Destroismai- 
Bon,  first  basso,  three  of  the  really  great  sing- 
ers of  the  city. 

().  Stewart  Taylor  is  another  of  the  able 
choir  masters  of  Montreal.  H*-  conducts  the 
choir  of  Dominion  Square  Methodist  Church. 

A.  Truman  Clibbon,  singing  at  the  Erskine 
I'l-esbyterian  Church,  has  a  remarkably  rich 
tenor  voice  that  bids  fair  to  carry  him  into  de- 
served success. 

Edmund  Burke,  a  , rising  young  lawyer,  is 
among  the  fine  baritones  of  the  city.  He 
nmdo  for  himself  a  name,  last  winter,  in  the 
part  of  Elijah,  in  that  Oratorio.  He  sings  at 
St.  Paul's  Presbyteiian. 

A  tenor  who  is  meeting  with  deserved  suc- 
cess is  J.  Leslie  Tedford,  soloist  of  St.  An- 
drew's Presbyterian  Church.  He  is  a  popular 
favorite  of  the  public.  He  is  a  tenor  of  rare 
promise. 

Sydney  Dugan,  also  of  St.  Andrew's,  is  a 
well-known  name  among  baritone  singers.  If 
he  has  the  patience  he  has  a  voice  that  is 
capable  of  marvelous  development.  As  a 
banso  singer.  E.  Duquette  has  few  equaJs 
here. 

M.  J.  J.  (loulet,  a  violinist,  has  done  great 
work  in  orchestral  music,  while  Charles  Reich- 
ling,  Alfred  Des^ve,  and    Alfred    Larsen,  (the 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


89 

nusical    instruments,    the   violin.      M   j    b 
Dubois   ranks  among  the  ablest  of  cello  play-* 

Mrs.  C.  H.  Gould  rank  deservedly  hiirh       Hp 

I-innists  of  note  are  so   many  that  1  mimt 

£i7'.:.:TU.r-.?.=.  sH 

pranovS  '•/'"'  '^°"'  «"''P'«'«1,  Las  a  so- 
piano  voice    of    rare    swoetnoss        Ti.o 

«n  m  the  Roman  Catholic  ch«,X,      T  ,'  " . 
never  ,een  a  more  pleasing  .lemony  or  Hsten 

'..*  n/fEve-ra/oV^h  'T"''  ^""'='''  »" 

one  hundred.      cfot'"    hM^'f^"  ttT„,:' 

qnartette,  the  pare  eieeption  "''^• 

Th,8  ,B  of  necessity  bat   a   harried   glance. 


do 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


ii     " 


Montreal  has  bo  much  of  music  that  had  I 
known,  I  should  have  passed  it  by  as  one  of 
the  points  requiring  a  volume  to  itself.  I  find 
that  with  all  my  search,  I  have  left  out  such 
names  as  Wm.  Curry,  J.  Poliquin,  the  one  of 
St.  Paul's,  the  other  of  St.  James  (St.  Denis 
street),  and  many  others  of  worth,  but  it's 
hard  for  a  stranger  to  find  them  all.  I  do 
not  know  if  the  city  gives  its  own  the  proper 
encouragement,  but  to  bring  out  the  best  in 
music,  a  loyal  city  will  even  allow  itself  at 
times  to  be  bored  that  the  struggling  begin- 
ner nuiy  have  heart  to  go  on.  The  music  of  a 
city  is  a  great  part  of  itself,  and  no  city 
should  neglect  developing  and  giving  encour- 
agement to  its  amateurs.  Some,  of  course,  in 
all  cities  reacji  a  point  where  they  lose  all  in- 
terest in  what  home  talent  may  be  able  to  do, 
and  depend  entirely  upon  importations.  While 
foreign  talent  is  well  to  be  interspersed,  home 
talent  should  not  be  neglected  and  discour- 
aged, as  home  talent  properly  developed  and 
heartened  becomes  to  other  cities  foreign 
talent,  and  I  am  pleased  to  find  in  Montreal 
very  much  for  any  loyal  city  to  be  proud  of, 
and  cannot  urge  too  strongly  to  encourage 
the  real  worth  that  I  have  found  herein. 

I  had  almost  closed  my  sketch  when  a  Bal- 
timore friend  asked  me  if  I  had  heard  Miss 
Mabel  Virtue  sing. 

"  No,  I  have  not.  and  yet  I  have  heard  of 
her." 

"  \\'ell,  if  yon  miss  hearing  1w». .  your  Musi- 
cal Montreal  will  bo  incompl  I  rlaim  to 
know  a  voice  when  I  h«»ai  It,  an  1  if  Miss  Vir- 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


91 
tue  is  aot  a  coming   opera   »ing,.,    „f  „  „,... 

jo.ta:^poSrron:r;t:;.v-s' 

iier  tones  are  clear,  and  for  .)ne  so  vo„n., 
;^t^w..fuK  I  know  the  ^,  ^:;.SS 
iftat  will    be  made  upon    rny  prediction    and 

.trtLaUe'nt"''  -^^^  *''^^  ^'  '^ -^-  ^« 
hl?^  t'^e  attention  ,t  merits  she  will  yet  be 

e"  n'  in'""'  T^  ''''  ^'^^  «P-«'^-« 
eis  m  America.      U  that  strong  ?      Time  will 

Ladies'  Morning  Musical. 

These    H.l'''     ""'  ?"''^'"'    *'"tertainn,ents. 
inese    ladies  secure  the  best  talent    imssihln 


THE  SAILORS'  IXSTITITTE, 

vo^^^tTf'"'':  ''"'*'^^'  ^'"•''  '^"'•^'  the  old  Mont- 
•eal  Hotel,  and  is  worthy  a  note,  bv  the  wav 

:::}z^  ""'^'  '"■ ""  '^'^-  to;u.hed";,;;;i 

This  would  be  better  called  a  "Sailors' 
Home."  "Institute"  is  too  harsh  a  wo^  fo. 
a  place  where  the  bo.ys  can  feel  that  there  Iwi 
welcome  for  them  when  in  port,  a  place  wlc  e 
tho.y  can  always  know  that  somebody  is  Had 
to  see  them  after  their  long  yoyage. "     l  Slt 


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(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2) 


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1.8 


/APPLIED  IIS/MGE    Inc 

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Rochttttr.    N*»   Yorh  U609        USA 

(716j    482  -  0300  -  Phon« 

(716)  288  -  5989      Fa. 


02 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


\   li 

f         n 

1     i 


I 


never  seen  a  sea  port  where  there  is  so  little 
of  the  ills  of  sailor  life  as  in  Montreal.  The 
boys  spend  their  evenings  here  instead  of 
carousing  about  the  streets.  They  may  do  it 
here,  but  I  have  never  seen  an  instance  of  it, 
and  I  have  seen  them  in  large  numbers  at  the 


.SAILOIW    INSTITUTE. 

Institute,  where  on  each  Tuesday  night  is 
held  a  concert  in  which  the  sailors  take  a 
most  entertaining  part.  The  choirs  of  the 
various  Protestant  churches  furnish  the  rest 
of  the  music.  I  have  had  the  pleasure  ot 
hearing  at  these  concerts  such  talent  as  Miss 
llollinshead,  Miss  Florence  Wishart,  Mrs.  P. 
St.  Clair  Hamilton,  and  other  note<l  singers  as 
well  as  pianists.  Among  the  latter  is  Miss 
Mvers  and  little  Grace  Grant,  the  eleven  year 


The  IVandcriug  Yanlcc. 
old  tJiild—  tJio  np+  ^f  i,. 


93 


■'•    "'"^'"'^   «'^"'.   "THE   COMMOnOKE." 

The  ^vtyat  ship  ownei-8   nf    ai     ^       . 
v^'rv  active  inte.lst  h,  tl.     i    *y""^''^''iJ  take  a 

with  their  monA  1    .  H .Vr^.'^"^^''  "«^  ""'^^ 
"^J   out  witli  tlieii-  presence. 


OfTtX 


^"   J.    KUchie  Hell    "  Tin.    << 


1 


,  [    s 


94 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


as  inanaf^er.  I  have  rarely  seen  so  cap- 
able a  man.  ITe  has  made  of  the  Insti- 
tute a  success  by  makinjj;  all  the  sailors  his 
friends,  Fitz  Maurice  went  with  me  one  even- 
infi,  as  you  may  see  by  the  marjiins. 

There  is  also  a  Catholic  Institute,  near  by, 
in  wliich  jireat  interest  is  taken  by  sailors  and 
citizens. 


In  this  Montreal  Hotel  have  resided,  from 
time  to  time,  many  men  who  have  played  vast 
parts  in  otir  own  histoiy.  See  that  corner 
room  on  the  second  floor.  It  was  the  one  oc- 
cupied by  Jert'erson  Davis,  in  IStJT,  when  in 
Monti-eal.  \'ery  many  other  Southerners  of 
note  have  lived  in  the  old  historic  house. 

CUUKCIIES. 

The  churches  of  Montreal  are  one  of  its  best 
features.  There  is  no  <ity  on  the  continent 
with  as  many  larj?e  church  buildings,  and  in 
few  cities  are  they  better  attended,  and  what 
is  remarkable,  the  men  as  well  as  the  women 
are  seen  in  the  congregations — almost  evenly 


The  IVandcrirg  Yankee. 


95 


"P'-ak,   l.ut  „„   ,|„.  ^,;,,,„ ,  '"■••"  '  •■^"""•1 

"•"M,.  ,i„„.,.|,  ,,vi,,.  n'ltt        ''""'  ■' "'  Hi'' 

'"!-'""■•• f".;/;  ..'.;;•,''■■".'•:'"'"-'.'■ - 

""",""'•■••-'"■>' a   ,vl,„l<.  I,"',"".'""   "f    "■"■ 

"'"""•"•  "■■"••■•  •!..■  iu.,d  Of .;  .i!  ;;"v '  "":'• 

Notre  Dame 

*"'•-'    to     the    ti„  e     H-he  r   ;r    '"''*     ^''^^     f"" 
.Z^^alander.  after  lm-ow    ^  •   '  '»*'^'"'''.v's    >,e^. 

'neusurements   r    thel      ^"'    ''"""•^    ^''^'^    n.e 
""»^''»«JveIv    that       T/'^''T''   '"■'"'^    '^'"'^v 

lots  of  other  thiuL^s  tLt  il  ''  '""""'  »'"' 

yet.  '''*•''  *^"t  ^^'«^  i^aven't  found  out 


Hi 


!)(i 


Tlic  W'aiidcriiii^  Yankee. 


1»\  wji.v  of  .Montival  and  finds,  hcic,  amid  flu* 
ruins  of  tliis  city,  this  jj;i'eat  bell,  he  m'v^\\{ 
be  seen  lo  sit  and  wonder  ovi-r  its  ponderous 
size,  and  as  lie  disc(»vers  the  fijiures,  lie  nii^-lit 
be  heard  to  contemplate  aloud:  '"Ah  me — e" 


.1     I 


I 

r 


NOTllK    DAMK    CIUKCII. 

tlie  jM'ople  of  the  Nineteenth  Centr.ry  were  far 
advanced  in  the  sciences.  L*.").(Mlt>: — Sti-anj^e, 
SIranp'l  Kveii  in  that  loufr  ajjo.  they  knew 
the  circumference  of  the  earth --' 2r),0(KI 
miles  V  This  alone  would  not  be  proof,  but 
'  G40' — the  number  of  acres  in  each  of  those 


'J'lic  iraudcrw.  )•<„,/,,,, 


"  ""•  "'"I '"'-'in.^Mi,„l  (I,,,-, 


i^rtrjj.ij;  ,„.  ^,,,., 


HI-:  iiAMB  <Mi  in  II. 


'■'."""""■"  "■.■if..|,i.i.ii;r.!  will,     ■ 


I 


I  -'^ 


98 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


I  ■ 


I  leave  to  the  ingenuity  of  Mr.  McDonald,  or 
the  aforesaid  New  Zealaiider,  to  awount  for, 
as  it  is  '  0 '  too  much  for  the  Colonel  and  me. 
Apropos  of  those  other  ten  bells,  eighteen  men 
are  recpiired  to  ring  them. 

"Rube,"  said  the  Colonel  one  day,  when  we 
were  visiting  this  great  church,  "  are  you  going 
to   tell   about   that   controversy   between   the 

Devil  and  the  Wind, 

at  the  corner  of  Notre  Dame  and  St.  Sulpice 
streets,  just  outside  this  church,  the  day  the 
'old  fellow'  told  the  vind  to  wait  for  him 
while  he  went  inside,  and  how  that  the  wind 
is  still  waiting?"  "  No,  Colonel,  I'm  not — That 
story  has  been  told  by  every  guide-book  maker 
since  the  controv<n'8y,  and  I  want  'o  prove  an 
exception  in  this  one  instance  at  least." 

The  interior  of  Notre  Dame  would  recpiire 
many  pages  to  barely  touch  upon  what  is 
tiierein  to  be  seen — ^its  double  gallery,  magnifi- 
cent altar,  chapels,  rare  paintings,  (by  Del 
Sarto,  Carnevali,  Minockeri  and  many  other 
noted  artists),  statues  and  beautiful  frescos, — 
and  is  worthy  the  attention  given  it  by  all 
visitors  to  Montreal.  The  architect  of  this 
•hurch  was  an  Irishman, — James  O'Donnell 
— his  monument  is  the  church  itself,  as  he  lies 
within  the  vault  of  Notre  Dame.  He  began 
its  foundation  in  182;i,  and  had  it  ready  for 
services  in  1829.  The  cost  is  said  to  have  been 
$0,000,000,  which  will  give  some  conception  of 
its  vast  proportions,  and  magnificence.  The 
services  are  in  French.  I  had  the  pleasure 
one  ^  jnday  of  hearing  the  Rev.  Father  Labelle. 
I  say  "  pleasuie,"  for  though  I  could  under- 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


lo    better    app.eeiate    the    .neit     s.-.r. 
'•apacitv  of  ^-^otre  Di.no     ^  ^<'atjii« 

^^,^'oo,w.i,e.t.PatH;^^..^r;:;^:y;;o:'''^^ 

The  Chapel  of  the  Sacred  Heart 
paintings,  all  of  which  were  Zie  h  ■'*' 

On  |.i  .  Jesu.t  Church, 

'^n  J.lcurv  street   iir.n-  «f   t^  t^x 

another  lar^c'  eh  „•  h     v     ;/  ''"'•''■"'^'  ^^'♦'^'^  '•- 

of  Ht.  Hvaeinthe  Po  fi'n  !f'''°^  '^''^"'^'"^ 
-•^-.n  fo,'  this  :  ,;,.  i;^-!*^,"^  "^,;'  '"a,Mnfiee„t 
vvh.v  these  ^reat  r  ms,V.,i  /^  ^'^"  to  wonder 
"»»'Ii  "lonev   bit  n  "^^truments  eost  s,» 

building    plntsoT/^;?'.?''''  ^'"^  «"-  -^>« 
mo  Hint  of  to         '         ^^'^  *"*  "lulerstand  the 

Wu-r??  ^Lt/'^onr'the'r'  ^^  ^''^  '^'^^^ 


■  fl 

!  ii 


n 


100 


The  IVamkring  Yankee. 


14  of  J^n  incli,  to  some  14  x  17  inches.  It  was 
the  city.  It  was  made  l».v  the  rassavent 
lii'otliers  had  G.  M.  Dethiei!  of  St.  Francis 
Xavier.  New  York  Tity,  said  to  be  the  greatest 


INTERIOR   OF  JESUITS   CHURCH. 

organist  in  the  world,  to  phiy  on  this  occasion. 
I  had  heard  organ  music  before,  but  the  play- 
ing of  this  great  musician  was  a  revelation. 

Next  to  this  church  is  the  St.  Marys  College, 
under  the  supervision  of  the  Jesuit  Order. 


St.  James  Cathedral 


101 


Is  s 


'fiiatod  on  Donli 
'yi'iion  Square.      u 


"«<«'!•  Hd-oeh 


rs 


'>i>i>osao  i)( 


iit  lioiiic,  and 


Ixi'lt  after  the  „I 


P'jin  of 


i»s  a  St.  iv.t(.,.'s  ,1 


"■>•<  about  on,.-(i,i,.,i  fl, 
'»J  -*1'(»  f,.ot  wid 


'ost  wlicn 
lie 


r^^    v  — "  uM'i  Wide. 


•2'»Pletod  ncarlv  |: 


^"»  in  3S70.      Its  areli 


liitect 


It 

-  will 

{,000,000.     It  was 

was  '/ictor  lioi-. 


?  thn  ..^..*    ..'.  .  .  ^\"""  tins  IS  a  nioi...i   ..II 


save  the  roof,  whieli 
Hat.      W] 


'"'"  eompleted    it  i'"     •?  ;'''^^"''''  ^'^ 
>**  <»""  of  tl.e  finest  e   u i'..  .        '"'*^  ^'^'^  '*  ^vili 


I'atlier  Midland 


and  ninet.Vj 
plans,  and'  i 
tcndin^r  the  sti 


C.S.V 

was  most  acti 


t;.sc)«tl.o(V,ntInen(. 


who  is  still  1 


niu 


n  many  wavs  heh 

tJ  fin.  -^  A-_  * 


vein  workinjrout  tl 


'8, 
ie 


Ix'foi 


■uotui 


aiul  noth 


■«'  said,  was  he 


Th 


""^'  in  snperin- 


«'  work,  whicl 


openinjr  ni 


>»^'  mo      wa.s  d 


'^-"•i"lS70.stopp.,i„j,: 


alt; 


"KMuhership.  a 


i"'  lailinjr, 


ass  was 


one  until  iSK 


I  as 

■-S, 
Th(. 


^) 


a  ir 


celebrated   in   1,S!>4."       Th 
'ft   ^^f   the   Eajjiish 


<'alla^dian 
.Ale 


!i  memorial  to  P^itJi 


XK 


1"   t'f   tine    T( 


speaking' 
■Janie 


•;•"'"■.'-  t,,;l.;:;;;''7-l'"'"-'.'.'...... 


b  of  the  altar,  h 


'  '''••'  i«  the  bronze  eanonv    ■    f       •  '.'  ^'"^■■ 
:"-  at  St.  IVter's,Iior'-;;\f "'""""!'  ^^  «'- 


aiifl  iniposinjj.     it 


ome.    It  i^ 


^ii-  Arthur  \ 
Th 


is  th( 


work  of  a  (J, 


^■*'>'.\'  elaborate 


meent.     It  cost  nearl 


mad 


lan, 


Pt'Jaih,  the  ^Mft  of  th 


went  to  Arclibish. 
h'-Jition  of  the  fi 
J-^aurent. 


y  110,000. 
seen  here 


firsf 


This  is  th 


I>  "niehesi.     It  i^  the 
^'^t   mass    in    Montreal 


rovern- 
eele 
by 


and 


!er 


^^'^ixtheathedrnlhiM 


M«:r.  I 


'-"ai'tifrue,  w 


ontreal.     The 
i's   Xotre   Dame, 


I 


rr 


f 


It  ■ 

I  i  r  f 


i     f 


!  '  i 


!  ! 


:i    ft 


102 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


which  was  used  in  1821.    The  second— in  1822 
—was  the  old  Hotel  Dieu.    The  third  was— in 
1825— at  St.  James,  on  St.  Denis  street,  near 
St.  Catherine.    In  1852,  under  Bishop  Bourget, 
the    fourth    Cathedral    (temporary)    was    the 
Chapel  of  the  Provident  Asylum,  corner  of  St. 
Catherine  and  Berri  streets.    In  1855,  the  fifth 
Cathedral  was  on  a  part  of  the  ground  where 
stands  tht  present  great  structure. 
St.  Patrick's. 
This  large  church   is   on  three  streets.      It 
faces  south  on  Lagauchetifere,  runs  through  to 
Dorchester  with  St!  Alexander  passing  to  the 
east.    It  is  of  Gothic    hrchitecture,  with    all 
features  in  keeping— the  great  carved  altars 
—two  on  either  side    and    one    in    center  far 
back,  the  three  extending  to  the  high  ceiling; 
the  windows   reaching  up  nearly  forty  feet; 
the  niches  for  the  beautiful  paintings  and  sta- 
tuary, every  part,  in  fact,  that  was  possible  is 
gothic  in  style.      It  is  beautiful  in  effect  and 
most  pleasing. 

There  are  to  be  seen  here  many  things  of 
especial  interest,  which  to  the  casual  observer 
are  not  fully  appreciated.  The  carpet  covering 
the  floor  of  the  great  sanctuary,  designed  and 
made  by  the  Morgan  Brothers  or  for  them,  in 
Europe,  after  suggestions  given  by  the  late 
Father  Quinlivan,  is  a  study  and  is  most  em- 
blematic. In  square-like  figures  are  the 
shamrock  for  Ireland,  the  rose  for  England, 
the  thistle  for  Scotland  and  the  maple  leaf 
for  Canada.  The  marvel  of  the  whole  is  the 
great  number  of  shades  of  green  contained  in 
the  figures  and  body. 


The  '^'andenng  Yankee. 


-X  families  of  the  pari«r^^^^  ""'^  ^'■--  b, 

fo-  «po"L:t;e";^fri,rrr"^'"^'  ^^- 
^«?^^:::^r^:;;^-^-o-'^epa. 

^ierf^'eVotr^f  jUr^^'^^  «"  ^  the  won- 
I  have  never  seen  clr"'  ^"''"^'  ^'"'lows 
^-      They  are  as  p "I^  L'"  '!'*^"*^'^'  ^'-d- 
"•I  painting.     Thesrfw-     ^  ""  ^^"^-^  as  a  rare 

.^r«fe,  in  l«roper"\TS7,"'"'™«^^-t^n^^^ 
^»g  the  patron  saintlwhi  h  '  T  '^P^^^^^^^' 
acts  in  the  life  of  8t  Pat^';  ^'''^''^^^  various 
t'-ait    of    the  late  Father  Do'  T''  ""  «"^  I>«r- 
«»'    :ory,  in    the  lowermo«f        ^        P'^««««t 
"J-^'de,  the    late   Emp^er  1/?"^'  ^««    being 
pleased  With    it    that  2  /  /"*'*""  ^««   «" 
and  presented  it  to  a  ehtJtn  ,^'    '"^^'^'•^*-^ 

The  organ  is  one    of    111  '^"°'''- 

the   city.      It       "^  ^f  .the  sweetest  tone  in 

brothers,    the    //eat   o/    '^'"^   ^^^««avent 
H.vacinthe,  whosf  organza"    '""'^'•^'   «^   «t. 
large  churches  of  Montreal       '"  "•"°-^'  «^  ^he 
Ane    choir,  with  Af,.   r^ 

members,  rtts  is  tl™ o J/r  i  "'"'   *"""^"'i 


'Y^ 


104 


The  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


last  century  advocated  8iu};iu}j;  by  the  conj?ie- 
^ation. 

This  clinrch  is  one  that   all    tourists  should 
see. 

Notre  Dame  de  Lourdes. 

There  is  a  small  church  you  would  be  sure  to 
iiiiss  if  vorr  attention  were  not  called  to  it, 


NOTHK    DAMK    l»K    I.OIUDKS. 

and  to  miss  seeitij;  if  wouhl  be  u  rejjret.  as  it  is 
verv  beautiful.     Some  sav  Iho  most  beautiful 


The  ll'aHdcnng  Yankee. 


105 
in    Moutreal.      j    p^f^^    ,      ^, 

^^ttoinuu.  basement  c^    p"r'%^r*"- -  *^- 
-i  facsimile  of  the  famm  1  ^"^  ^''"'^tto  is 

^--sinthisHn^^S't^""'^^^^--^ 

'•'•and  Seminary,  I'hiloso  Ju- n  ""^'"^ '^"^'^'"«- 
•^fontreal,  St.   Patri^kl       ;    "^"\^'  ^^""^^^'  "^ 

'1-  An..es,  and  HotTl  Dieu       ■''^'  ''''''''  '''^-^^ 

is  on  ^f  n  ^^  '^^'"^^  Church  (R.o  . 

^""NMVnis.jnstnoHi.ofs     f'."/.      • 

'«  one  of  <he  i.,,.„„  .  i  '•  '  ''^'"'iine.     it 

paintings  ""'  "'"'•''''*'«'  '•>»<!  "««  «ome  fine 

y    ,  Churohea. 

'o'H  Heem  ever  we  eomo       r''  'T^'  ""'^  ^'••«'- 
'-^•■f'''   Avenno.   New   York    '  ,°^^»  «"'"»^  of  a 

'•"«^-"    A  poor  old   adv  vlfpv        ^'""^    '"  *'"^ 
«""  ^''o  door  or^n    /o;r;r''"'"-''^'''''"^'^^^^'> 

^V"«n't  f,,,,t  eln?,^. ,'/  If^";  «^«.V  'ong.  as  it 
"ont  on  her  wea n-  h'iv  b v    ,      '""''"    ^''♦'  ^'«« 

"'-■"'.V.     I  s|H.a'k     Yv  nlh*;  V:  ?  "'"""^  ^"'"^ 
own.  •■  "^"^'  ^or  I  speak  of  my 


106 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


McGILL  UNIVERSITY. 

Montreal  has  a  juHt  pride  in  the  now  famous 
Tniversity,  whose  founder,  James  McGill, 
huilded  better  than  he  knew.  Starting  with 
his  f^ift  of  ^120,000,  it  has  grown  up  through 
thu  hundreds  of  thousands,  until  tigures  run 
into  millions;  its  faculty,  from  a  few  faithful 
teachers,  to  a  staff  of  140  j^ble  professors,  at 
whose  head  we  tind  one  of  the  most  prominent 


instructors  on  the  American  ('ontinent — Prin- 
cipal Peterson — recognized  and  honored  among 
all  the  colleges  and  universities  of  the  world 
as  few  men  have  been  recognized  and  honored; 
and  from  thirteen  students  in  182!),  to  almost 
as  nuiny  hundreds  in  1902.  Like  the  fortunes 
of  many  a  man  its  early  life  was  one  contiimed 
struggle  for  bare  existence,  but  whose  later 


The  Wandi 


<^f-"'g  Yankee.  j^^ 

:;    '"'.V  of  our  coII.;,:'"i;    ''"'.  "'  '^*^'"^^-  ^"''t 
^^'^^^'^-      It  is  ideal  in  .        '"•^•''••«'"f'Vs  i„  n.o 


fi 


i 

! 


ri 


lO.S  The  irandcring  Yankee. 

ROYAL  VICTORIA  COLLEGE 

on  Slierbrooko  streot,  to  the  east  of  the  main 
entrance  to  the  University  grounds.  That 
nobleman  among  men.  Lord  Strathcona,  built 
at  a  cost  of  ^300,000,  and  endowed  with 
11.000,000  more,  this  magn'^cent  structure. 
It  is  a  gift  to  woman,  surpassed  in  beauty,  by 
few  in  America,  a  pride  of  the  city  and  a  last- 
ing honor  to  the  man  whose  heart  dictated  the 
gift.  When  it  was  completed  Lord  Strathcona 
cast  about  throughout  the  world  for  instruc- 
tors whose  ability  was  of  the  highest  order. 
At  its  head  he  placed  jSliss  Hilda  Diana  Oahioy, 
a  woman  of  rare  accomplishments  and  wonder- 
ful executive  ability,  giving  her,  as  able  assist- 
ants, Miss  Susan  Cameron,  in  English  Litera- 
ture, and  Mile  Milhau  in  charge  of  the 
languages,  both  of  whom  are  aiding  much  to 
raise  the  Royal  Victoria  to  a  high  place  of 
excellence,  while  in  music  there  are  few  to 
equal  Miss  Clara  Lichtenstein,  under  whose 
instructions  great  promise  is  given  the  college. 
She  has  alrendy  sent  to  Paris  a  pupil  who, 
under  her  soU'  instruction,  has  developed  into 
a  singer  whose  voice  will  yet  rival  a  Patti.  This 
is  n  ])rediction  made  after  hearing  the  best 
voices  up  to  a  Patti's.  I  had  the  rare  oppor- 
tunity of  hearing  this  Montreal  child, — she  is 
not  much  moi-e, — while  she  was  yet  unknown. 
She  moved  me  then  as  the  human  voice  had 
never  before  moved  me.  T  do  not  know  why, 
but  I  felt  that  I  was  listv^ning  to  a  genius  that 
would  one  day  move  the  musical  world.  I 
shall  never  forget  the  night,  shortly  before  she 
started  for  Paris — in  March,  on  which  she 
made  her  debut  in  the  College  Hall        There 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


J  09 

were    satbered  on    that    occasion    the    finest 
poople  of  th.  citj,  people  who  wouhl  'race  ',, 
salons    of    a  musical     Paris.      j^one    of         . 
number  l<new  for  what  they  can.e,    or  no  o    . 
of    hem  had   heard   her  sin,,  vet   rumo"   l"d 

PxpectancN,-'  \^  hat  is  she  like>"     "  How  «ill 

she   be  jfowned?"       "  How   will     i         *^^^"'" 

''Has  sL  o   .-   •  ^'"   ^^'^  appear?" 

tiBB  she  a  voice,  or  is  it  but  rumoi?'  and 


KOVAL   VICTUKIA   COr.LE(iE. 


ma      Other  questions  were  in  the  minds  of  the 

TinL     t,n1"'""-  '  '"^'^'  ''''  '  ''-^  J'^'"-n.er 

V      as   sho-  ""'•''  '"■  "-'"—t  triumph. 

At  las   she  came  upon  the  staue.     She  came  -is 

a  simple  child,  unconscious  of  her  power     sie 

;:^h,Tntr?  ''\  '"*"*''  ^"^  ^-  ^^  p^-^-  -- 

poo,      ^o  jewels  adorned  her  breast-naught 
»>ut  a  simple  rose.     The  audience  wa.  in«tantlj 


I 

i 

I 

i 


! 


:|! 


1 


110 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


won  by  her  simplicity.  Even  before  she  had 
sun}?  a  note  they  were  her  friends;  but  when 
she  began,  her  clear  sweet  tones  filled  the  hall 
with  a  volume  of  music  that  entered  the  very 
souls  of  her  listeners.  Proud  ladies  wei)t, 
men  unused  to  being  moved  wiped  from  off 
their  cheeks  tears  of  very  joy.  She  had  won 
a  triumph.  A  triumph  she  could  not  have 
even  hoped  for.  At  the  close,  titled  ladies 
embraced   her,    for   she    had   won   herself   a 


PAULINE   LIGIITFOOT. 

title— Queen  of  Song.  She  came  upon  the 
stage  that  night,  a  poor,  unknown  girl.  She 
left  it  the  loved  of  every  heart,  and  rich  enough 
to  carry  her  through  years  of  study  in  the 
most  expensive  city  of  Europe — the  gift  of 
generous  Montreal.  I  had  hoped  to  be  first 
to  herald  her  to  the  world,  but  I  am  late,  yet  I 
trust  that  what  I  say  may  live. 

Montreal,  yea,  all  Canada,  will  be  proud  to 
claim  her  as  a  daughter, 

MISS  TAFLINE  LKIHTFOOT. 


The  Waudcring  Yaukcc. 
TITLED  MONTREAL. 


Ill 


I  look  over  tl,o  names  oV-n.nr''  """  "'"•» 
titles  have  ^^TjoV^TtTj^n  """■" 
accomplishments  nf  +\.l  ^^  ^^^^  '"st 

!->™-s  toTa^;e'my^.rwV"ai'r^•"'' '  •■"■• 

justice  and  wisdom  „f  i  •'  ^  '"  """  "ic 
deeds.  Esi^dar  °  ''»°"''""''  "'"'"•  n'™  of 
t'»  ProvinT^f  n    K    """  "■""  <"  t"'»se  "f 

B-al,    flnT",,e°',tdo„rir';, '•''""''*  ""'  ' 

*"-'•  lives  ,  t>e  read  :',",'•""'"■•'!'' 
wad  a  rare  rominn«  t     J  .  *     would 

tliesc  men— men  LiJZ  \\,  "  """ntrvmen  ef 
land,  f7"l,ev  L  ,^         l^^  """"•  '"'S''  '-  "■» 

"-^h™7«ive?„r'''''"'r"""^-"^e 

not.  and  I  must  Sve  h,,/      '""'  '"""•  ""*  '*  « 
ontllnes.  *  "  """  a  """^  °"tli"'-  of  tl,e 

tl.on    a    traek?ess  'S;;"^,™- *f  ^'--f^, 
fnends  to  weleomp  i.im  "   °^^^'      "<'    J»ad  no 

'"•«  lonellnel  7t  waTC  Ttl'  """i  "'•"  '" 
fi  "ty  he  eame  h.,tlf!»,    !  ^  ^'''^  comforts  of 

I»rador,  to  the  CaV  1  ''        ''"  ''"'''  ^*'  '^'^■ 
That  boy  was       "'^  ^"'^'"^  ''"«*  «f  Minjran. 


f 


TITLED  MONTREAL. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


113 

Thn   K  .     l^onald  A.  Smith, 

ho^or':^  ttTreal'    "^"^^^    ^^^^^^    ^^es  to 

LORD  8TBATHCONA  AND  MOUNT 
ROYAL. 

He  came  to  ta^e  a  lowly  position  in  n 

To  reach  Montreal  wa^  hTs  onlv  ^''"^°^««- 
read,  which,  in  the  dead  o?^-  ?^'  ^"*  *^ 
undertaking  that  a  Lrlf         'T^"^^'"'  ^^«  «» 

ed,but  thi^^bo^^owTd  trnTf- 'r^.'^^^^ 
will  that  has  carriTv      .u    ""^  indomitable 

of  success     wfr         ™  ^^""^"^^  a  Jong  life 

The  ha^^hipfof  the',"''  '"''"'  «"^  ''^^^^^-d-    • 
niay  be  anprecratir  T^'  ""^^'^  J^"™"^  »>a^k 

T^  AC.  ^  ®"«y  Life, 

no^e  thn  t  T/'^''' •  ^  ^^'  '^^'^^  ««  "^»^h  worthy  of 

first  member  for  WinniSj^?   r%"'''^^^^  *^^ 
Assembly  of  Manitoba    ?^\«?/^  Legislative 

to  the  I>omln;on  Pari'iampif    ^  ^^^  *^'^^*^** 
Selkirk     In  IS^  „  ^/k  u^     *'  ^®  member  for 

Stephen  and  ot?;^'!  ^^V"""'"'  ^'^^'^  ^ount 
work  of 'c^^ftrucS^!  undertook  the  gigantic 
^ay   a   wo^l     ^""^  *^^  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 

whfch  atTentd  ri  'l  '''  ""«*  ^^'«^»'t-« 
.|^at  ente^r'^^^S^^^^^^  ^ ^ - 


114 


The  Waudcriug  Yankee. 


i  ,i 


Is  Made  a  Kniffht. 
In  1886,  for  bis  many  services,  he  was  creat- 
ed a  Knight  Commander  of  the  Order  of  St. 
Michael  and  St.  George.  In  1887  he  was 
elected  for  West  Montreal,  which  he  repre- 
sented until  appointed  High  Commissioner,  in 
1890.  He  stood  very  high  in  Parliament  owing 
to  his  rare  judgment  of  conditions. 

Gifts. 

The  known  gifts  of  Lord  Strathcona  reach 
far  into  the  millions,  while  the  silent  ones, 
known  only  to  himself  arid  the  recipients,  have 
cheered  the  hearts  of  many  a  humble  brother 
man.  He  gives  from  the  heart  and  not  for 
fame — the  only  gift  which  in  turn  gives  back 
to  the  heart  a  joy.  In  1887  he  gave  i  half 
million  dollars  toward  the  building  of  the 
Royal  Victoria  Hospital — and  has  a-lded  much 
more  to  it  since.  He  gave  the  beautiful  Royal 
Victoria  Colle;,'e,  on  Sherbrooke  street,  and 
endowed  it  with  one  million  dollars.  I  might 
go  on,  but  these  two  I  give  as  Instances  of  the 
many.  His  gifts  are  gifts  of  wisdom  rather 
than  for  that  which  pleases  alone  the  sight. 
Some  one  is  ever  materially  benefited  by  his 
generosity — and  long  after  he  has  gone,  new 
generations  will  come  and  go  blessing  the 
name  of  Lord  Strathcona. 

His  residence  on  Dorchester  street  has  been 
described  as  a  veritable  palace,  filled  with  rare 
and  costly  works  of  art  of  which  he  is  a 
generous  patron.  It  was  at  his  home  that  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  cf  Cornwall  and  York  (now 
Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales),  were  entertain- 
ed, while  in  the  city  last  year  (1901). 

His  Montreal  residence  is  but  one  of  five  seats 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


115 


in    Scotland,  and  two 


-one  in    London,  one 
otliers  in  Canada. 

f""M»'xtur '""  """"""'*^' "» "'•"  ™ 

"-ward,  Of  M;^'t,.':r       ■'  "  •""  "'"^'  »f  '"■• 
Ho  was  made  a  Peer  hv  h,«  o 

"The  Pirstomzon  Of  the  British  En.p„e,.. 

lame  to  liPP  ,v„.„°         f"'"?'''""  sons  quickly 

r..ad,v  for  IV-TwrnnhT''':;"  "'■■■''  "■■'■  "^ 
h-  «>aso„  of  year,  1  f  ,  '  "/'r"  ™"l«  ■>"'. 
what  no  other  Z;r.  2  l^l  "'''''•  '""  "«'  "id 
<-omplete  """*"'  ">  <"»•    ««  aWed  oat 

,„H        .       ''''°  ^"■"'■°o»a  Horse, 

"ties  aaear„ed-tl,e  kiL  LT  """"■"*•'  '""• 
inherit  thrones  n,-i,  L     ?!      "■  ''"'P''™™  wlio 

one  who  „„i,r aZe"::?!'"  ZiZr^'l'  '° 

of  mv  sketch  hna  h^  ,      ''"»  *he  subject 

J'-  made  It  whose  "ustef   'n '""'^"^  '''  "^^ 
with  theyears      His  Hffr  ^'"f'«^  brighter 

lives  of  otliers     S  ',        ^"•"'  "^'"^^  '^''^PP^c^  ^J"' 
"iiieis.     Siuch  names 


I  * 


Jive  in  the  heart. 


on, 


for  they 


IIG 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


LORD  MOUNT  STEPHEN 

Was  born  in  182U  at  Dufftown,  Banff,  Scot- 
land, came  to  Canada  in  1850,  v  iiere  he  entered 
into  business,  realizing  a  fc  <une,  in  Montreal, 
in  manufacturing  textiles.  Was  appointed  a 
Director  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  and  from 
187G  to  1881  was  President  of  tuat  great  insti- 
tution. He  soon  drifted  into  railway  enter- 
prises, and  with  his  cousin,  Mr.  Donald  A. 
Smith, — now  Lord  Strathcona  and  Mount 
Royal — made  possible  thd  now  gigantic  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway,  of  which  he  was  the  first 
President  in  1881,  holding  that  position  until 
1888,  when  he  resigned. 

In  1885,  in  connection  with  Donald  A.  Smith, 
he  founded  the  "  Montreal  Scholarship,"  in  the 
London  Royal  College  of  Music-  iind  in  1887 
the  two  men  again  uni».^d  in  donaiing  $500,000 
each,  to  found  the  itouil  Victoria  Hospital.  In 
1885  the  (rovernmeut  of  Canada  pvsented  Mr. 
Stephen  with  the  Confederation  Medal,  and 
in  1886  he  was  created  Barouet  by  the  Queen, 
in  recognition  of  his  great  service  in  connection 
with  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  He  was 
raised  to  the  Peerage  in  1891,  and  chose  as  his 
title  the  lofty  peak  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
which  had  been  originally  named  in  his  honor. 
His  seat  in  England  is  Brocket  Hall,  Herts, 
once  the  home  of  Lord  Palmerston. 


SIR  WILLIAM  CORNELIUS  VAN  HORNE, 

K.C.M.G. 
Was  born  in  Joliet,  Illinois,  in  1843.       Like 
most  really  great  men,  he  began  at  the  bottom 
of  the  ladder,  and  has  climbed  up  to  the  point 
where  there  are  few  if  any  of  the  "  rounds  " 


The  Wandermg  Yankee. 


Stephen   in  MS  L'7""""™"  °'  ''"■•>  •'"<'"-« 
»  Ro.«.  ana  ,.n„e..i,„  C;?f,„^^-  :-- - 

i"t«  n  garden  ■"""■"-'    "    '"'-"'""-ss 

an:,\::::rv;v:™,;:;™,'r;  ■''•', »■'■""--""'• 

tl.e  intellec,        w'r^    ''HrT  '"  ',"'""  ''»" 

aM.  Adam  C^'S^.Ji'™''"' "'■'"• 
household  word    and    ,„  "'""''  '«  " 

world,"  and  "  One  o   urLtul"T""\    *"" 

artXH:^r~'fe;"c;: 


118 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


SIR  TiiOMAS  G.  SHAUGHNESSY, 


i 


Was  born  in  Milwaukee,  Wis.,  in  1853.  His 
life  reads  like  a  romance.  From  poor  boy  to 
man  of  vast  possibilities  has  seemed  but  an 
Aladin  stride— a  dream  of  a  nij?lit.  His  life 
and  that  of  Sir  William  Van  Home  could  be 
i-ead  as  one— only  a  change  of  r.ame,  the  life 
sketch  would  fit  either.  He  came  to  the  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway  with  Sir  William,  and 
to  their  master  minds  u^uch  is  due  for  that 
road's  position  at  the  head  of  the  world's  vast 
railway  systems.  This  road  and  its  branches 
are  fast  permeating  the  Dominion,  as  the 
arteries  of  a  huiuVh  body.  Sir  Thomas,  on  the 
retirement  of  Sir  William  Van  Home,  became 
President  of  this  railway  system. 

1  Miring  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Cornwall 
J  V  York's  visit  last  year  (IIMH),  Mr.  Shangh- 
m-<>'.  was  made  a  Knight,  in  recognition  of 
what  he  has  done,  is  doing,  and  will  do  toward 
tlie  upbuilding  of  this  vast   Kmpire. 

(!.  M.  Adam  speaks  of  Sir  Thomas  thus  aptly: 
"  From  the  first  day  of  his  life  as  a  railway 
man  there  was  no  doubt  in  the  minds  of  those 
who  knew  him  that  he  would  be  a  success. 
The  (pialities  of  his  mind  are  thoroughly 
mctdern,  and  fit  exactly  the  service  of  this 
greatest  bnincli  of  modern  public  service. 
Ardent  and  untiring,  he  has  the  ability  to  do 
much  work,  and  his  shrewd  common  sense  and 
prodigious  memory  enable  him  to  guide  that 
work  to  the  very  best  advantage." 

It  may  be  a  broad  statement  to  say  (liai, 
taking  into  account  th<'  vast  obstacles  with 
which  these  two  men  have  had  to  contend,  they 


The  Wandering  Ymikce.  jjg 

t^'lh-rZ"  T^^'-^^.^^'^^^^Sers,  -out  when  we 
see  what  they  have  done  and  are  doinff  the 
statement  is  but  that  of  a  fact. 

SIR  WILLIAM  HALE8  KINGSTON. 
When  we  l,>ok  about  us  and  see  on  every  side 

he  men  who  have  no  aim  in  life,  save  that  o? 
Holfish  purpose,  it  is  a  relief  to  find  here  and 

here  one  who  stands  out  and  above,  so  h  ^h 

hat  the  whole  world  may  but  look  and  set 
NNo  often  feel  that  none  ai-e  irreat  sivrflu^' 
whose  h>.al  fa„.e  has  nuule  them  o  o  us  The' 
«"bjpt  of  this  sket.-h  has  no  lo.-alitv.     Ii;  may 

-de  ,uu-  iy  iHMv  in  Montreal,  but  Mont"^^l 
has  no  dam,  to  him  save  that  of  residen.v 

Ixndou  or  Pans  or  Berlin.  He  sfands  •.Ion/ 
Mde  of  the  ...atest  sur^.^ons  <,f  tl  wo,'  d"^^ 
spnik   thus  stron^^ly,  for  many  at  a  ^1  s  *  n.e 

as- f'z^/i^^r  ^••"  --  ^-»'<  ^  ---J'h;:;. 

'n,vin::     '',"""•'';"'"••-'-     '•"     this  (Quebe,., 
1  .m.me.      H,.  graduated  ar  M.(}il!  ('o||,..„.  j,, 

I^.^aI  (%,I|,.^M.    of    HurK<'ons.    EdinburLrl,   ,,,^1 
M.bse,,u.„tly    ob.aiued    diplomas    in  ni, 
Austria,  Prussia,  and  IJavari;,.       H,.  J,"      ,.' 

-t  ranadinu  adu.itted  to  the  u.em;..:;  •, 
th«>  I  npenal  .V.adeu.y  of  Vienna.       Ho  nmnv 

ave  been  the  honors  eonferr-ed  upon  him      a 
It  would  lengthen  this  skofH,  bovond  ,nV    . 

to  l>an.y  n>uH.  upon  them.  ■  n/r  ^r;if 
>  ontival  frou.  1S75  to  187S.-a„d  so  w  e  u 
•hu.f  ma^nstrate  <hat  he  mi^h^  have  continued 


rsm ss  — :k  _^^;e«r^KiF«s-'-TswrT .  ~v-  -z--:    - 


120 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


ii 


!    i 

i     ! 


but  would  not  accept  the  renomination.  It 
was  during  his  administration  that  occurred 
the  Guibord  excitement,  and  but  for  his  wis- 
dom }i;reat  harm  might  have  resulted.  The  late 
Lord  Durterin,  then  Governor  (Jeneral  of 
Canada,  extended  to  him  his  thanks  for  his 
cool  judgment  on  that  occasion.  He  was 
Knighted  by  Her  Majesty  Queen  Vit  toria,  in 
lH5>r»,  and  was  called  to  the  Senate  of  Canada 
by  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  in  1806. 

His  <iuiet  acts  of  kindness  have  made  him 
dearly  beloved  by  the  poyr,  whose  friend  lie 
has  ever  been— doing  for  them  in  their  need, 
the  same  as  though  they  had  been  able  to  pay 
with  the  millionnaiiv.  He  has  ever  been  gov- 
•Miied  by  love  of  humanity  and  not  by  gold. 
He  has  long  been  surgeon  to  the  Hotel  Dieu. 
where  his  rare  skill  has  given  new  life  and  ease 
to  many  a  suffering  one. 

To  read  such  lives  of  good,  makes  one  feel 
nuue  kindly  toward  the  world,  Thei-e  are  all 
too  few  Hingstons — the  world  would  be  better 
if  there  were  moiv. 

SHt  WHJJAM  McTAiJGAHT  TAIT, 

Was  born  at  Melbourms  I'.Q.,  IHH'.  Was 
educated  at  St.  Kraucis  College,  Kichmond, 
and  graduated  n,C.L.  at  .McGill  Cniversity,  in 
ISdl'.  He  was  ci  lied  to  the  Bar  in  \^iSX  prac- 
tised first  at  Melbourne,  and,  in  1870,  came  to 
Montreal. 

He  was  civated  Q.C.  by  the  Marquis  of  Lome 
in  1882.  and  f<»r  a  number  of  years  was  trea- 
HUHM-  of  the  Montreal  Bar. 

WIh'U  a  young  nuin  he  to(»k  much  interest  in 
militarv  alTairs,  taking  a  first  class  certificate 


[,•: 


The  Wandering  Yankee, 


121 


in  the  Military  School  at  Quebec.      He  served 
as  a  First  Lieutenant  and  Captain  in  the  54th 
Battalion  (Lord  Aylmer's),  during  the  Fenian 
troubles.     He  is  a  high  Freemason.    In  1877 
he  was  elected  Grand  Master  of  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Quebec,  and  re-elected  in  1878.     In 
1880  he  became  a  Fellow  in  Law  in  McGill 
University,  and  took  the  degr    ;  of  D.O.L.,  in 
course,  at  that  institution  in  1891.      During 
that    year    he  received   the    same    honorable 
degree  at  Bishop's  <      lege.     He  is  a  member  of 
the    Council    of    that    University.      He    was 
appointed  in  1894    to    perform   the  duties  of 
(^hief  Justice  of  his  court  in  the  District  of 
Montreal.     In  1897  he  was  honored,  for  his  long 
and  efficient  service  on  the  Bench  and  his  great 
abilities  at  the  Bar,  by  being  made  a  Knight  by 
Her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria.      On  this  occa- 
sion the  Bar  of  Quebec,  feeling  the  justice  of 
the  honor,  presented  him  with  an  address  of 
congratulation.   I^ady  Tait  was  the.daughter  of 
the  late  Henry  B.  Kinghorn,  of  Newport,  R.I. 

SIR  ALEXANDER  LACOSTE, 

was  born  at  Boucherville,  P.Q.,  in  1842,  being 
the  son  of  the  late  Fon.  Louis  Lacoste,  J.P., 
Senatoi'.  The  family  came  originally  from 
Langudoc,  France,  He  was  educated  at  the 
College,  St.  Hyacinthe,  and  at  Laval  Uni- 
versity (LL.D.,  1879),  called  to  the  Bar  in  186:5, 
and  began  the  practice  of  law  in  Montreal. 

Many  have  been  the  honors  conferred  upon 
this  great  jurist.      He    attained    an    eminent 
position  in  all  branches  of  hisi  profession,  was 
created  a  Q.C.,  by  the  Dominion  (Government, 
in  1870,  and  had    the    same  honor    conferred 


122 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


upon  him  by  the  Marquis  of  Lome,  in  1880. 
He  was  Batonnier  of  the  Bar  in  1878-80,  be- 
came a  Legislative  Councillor,  P.Q.,  in  1882, 
and  was  called  to  the  Senate  by  the  Marquis 
of  Lansdowne,  Jan.,  1884.  Appointed  Speaker 
of  the  Senate,  April  27,  1891.  He  held  that 
office  until  September  14  of  the  same  year, 
when  he  was  elected  to  the  Bench  as  Chief 
Justice  of  his  native  Province.  His  Lordship 
was  sworn  of  the  Pi'ivy  Council,  Oct.  13,  1892, 
and  received  the  honor  of  Knighthood  the  same 
yea*.  He  was  appointed  administrator  of  the 
(jovernment  of  Quebec  \n  1893,  and  again  in 
1897,  and  received  the  honorable  degree  of 
D.C.L.  from  Bishop's  College.  University, 
Lennoxville,  in  1895. 

These  are  but  a  part  of  the  honors  carried  by 
Sir  Alexander  Lacoste.  In  all  his  busy  lii'e  he 
has  ever  had  time  to  work  against  the  vice  of 
intemperance.  He  believes  that  there  can  be 
but  one  voice  raised  against  the  evil — a  curse 
to  every  civilized  nation. 

I  have  thus  hurriedly  sketched  the  lives  of 
men  whoso  deeds  and  prominence  would  war- 
rant a  far  more  extended  notice,  but  in  a  work 
of  this  nature,  only  a  touch  here  and  there  can 
be  made.  The  wives  of  these  men  stand  de- 
servedly high,  both  socially  and  in  good  works. 
They  have  risen  side  by  side  with  these  men  of 
title,  and  for  the  success  attained,  to  them 
much  is  due.  On  every  hand  I  hear  naught 
but  kind  words  said  of  their  charity  and  con- 
sideration for  those  whose  lot  in  life  has  been 
less  happy  than  their  own. 

There  is  a  man  who,  while  he  is  not  of  Mont- 
real, yet  is  so  closely  connected  by  reason  of 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  12;} 

beins  at  the  bead  of  tl.e  great  Elder  Dempster 
and  Company  Steamship  line,  mi-ht  well  he 
mentioned  amonj?  the  titled.      I  refer  to 

SIR  A.  L.  JONES.  K.C.:M.a. 

who  was  Knighted  by  King  Edward  on  the  oc- 
casion   of    his    (the    King's)    birthday,  Nov.  !>, 


IflOl.  IIo  has  proven  that,  not  only  in  Amer- 
ya  but  in  conservative  England,  can  a  man, 
b.v  his  own  efforts,  climb  from  \W  bottom  to  a 
place  among  the  high.'st.  Ho  started  a  poor 
boy.  and,  to  day.  stands  at  the  head  of  one  o*- 
the  great  steamship  companies  that  plv  the 
waters  of  the  world,  with  its 

One  Hundred  and  Twenty-Six  tt     gels. 
That   company  may  well   be   sal  be  of 

Montreal,  which,  next  to  its  Liverpo.,.  port.  Is 


124 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


its  most  important  harbor.  I  have  recently  been 
surprised  that  in  the  many  letters  I  have  re- 
ceived from  the  school  children  of  the  States  (I 
received  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  from 
one  town),  on  Canada,  that  but  a  single  letter 
spoke  of  Montreal  as  a  seaport.  Why,  bless 
you,  my  dear  children,  you  left  out  one  of  the 
most  important  facts.  One  little  girl  among 
the  number,  however,  said  a  true  thing  when 
she  wrote  :  "  Unless  the  Erie  Canal  is  widened 
for  sea-going  vessels,  Montreal  will  steal  the 
ocean  trade  of  New  York  City."  As  it  is,  a 
vast  amount  of  grain  is  shipped  from  here, 
coming  in  as  it  does  by  the  many  railroads 
from  the  West  and  by  the  lake  and  river 
steamers.  Not  only  in  grain,  but  a  large  tour- 
ist business  is  done  from  here,  especially  by 
those  who  do  not  care  for  a  long  ocea  voyage. 
One  may  leave  New  York  in  the  morning, 
reach  here  in  the  evening,  and  go  aboard  one 
of  the  Elder  Dempster  and  Company's  palatial 
steamers,  and  float  for  800  miles  down  the  St. 
Lawrence,  rarely  ever  out  of  sight  of  land, 
thus  making  the  voyage  across  to  Europe  far 
less  tiresome.  Then  again  many  people  come 
here,  make  a  tour  of  the  country,  and  start  on 
this  line  from  Quebec  nearly  200  miles  down 
the  river. 


CANADIAN  INDUSTRIES. 

Not  only  is  Canada  making  vast  strides  in 
shipping  and  railroading,  but  in  every  branch 
of  business  —  mining,  nmnufacturing,  wheat 
raising,  horse,  sheep  and  cattle  raising,  and  in 
lumbering,  the  business  is  very  great,  esiM'cial- 
Iv  in  the 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  12S 

Pulp  and  Paper  Industry. 
The  pulp  and  paper  industry  of  Canada  is 
growing  enormously.    Mills  are  being  erected 
throughout  the  Provinces  of  Quebec  and  On- 
tano,    wherever    water    power    is    sufficiently 
great  to  warrant   it,  and   the  vast  number  of 
falls  found  everywhere  are  being  utilized,  and 
the  woods    of   tho    forest    are    melting   away 
jnto    pulp   and    its    products.       Possibly    the 
largest  of  all  plants  are  those  of  the  Canada 
Paper    Company.      Their    output    is    simplv 
enormous,    and    with    the    recent     additional 
capital,    they    are    enlarging    and    extending 
their    mills.      I    sought  far  and    near    for   a 
paper   that  would   suit   my  purpose    for   this 
book,  and,  finally,  chose  that  which  you  are 
now  looking  at.      This  Company  made  it  spe- 
cmlly  for  this  edition.        I   know  it's  not  the 
proper  place   to  say  this,  that's  whv  I   put  it 
here.      It's  such  a  pleasure    to   do  things  the 
opposite  to  what  every  one  else  would  do. 

POOR  STREETS. 

It  is  not  my  province  to  criticise,  but  the 
Colonel  never  gets  through  talking  about  the 
poor  streets  of  Montreal.      «  Rube,"  says  he 
for  a  city  of  the  vast  riches  of  Montreal,  it  is 
a  wonder  that  it  does  not  wake  up  and  get 
out  of  the  mud.    Somo  day  it  will  elect  a  Boss 
Shei)pard  as  Mayor.    A  man  who  will  not  l>e 
afraid    of   public   opinion;    but   will    beautifv 
Montreal,     as     Shepherd     did     Washington 
even   though   they  may  run  him  out   of   town' 
as  ^\ashington  did  Shepherd.      Yet,  in  after 
years,     should     he     return,     there  'will     be 


126 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


nothing  too  good  for  him.  There  are 
few  cities  situated  for  beauty  as  Mont- 
real, and  yet  few  with  streets  so  neglected. 
No  matter  how  much  natural  beauty  a  town 
m:iy  have,  it  must  be  well  paved,  else  the  great 
beauty  is  lost.  Why,  Montreal  is  far  behind 
sori'^  of  its  little  suburbs.  Even  Ste.  Cune- 
gomlo  is  far  better  paved,  while  Westmount, 
under  the  wise  rule  of  that  ideal  Mayor,  W.  D. 
Lighthall,  is  outstripping  its  great  neighbor  to 
the  east.  Yes,  Rube,  Montreal  needs  a  Boss 
Shepherd,  and  it  needs  him  very,  very  much." 
"  How  would  a  Mayor  Parent  do,  Colonel?" 
"Ah,  Rube,  now  you  are  saying  things!  If 
Montreal  had  such  a  Parent  for  a  father  you 
wouldn't  know  the  town  inside  of  a  few  years, 
but  then  such  Parents  as  he  are  seldom 
found  at  the  head  of  the  family."* 


•Note. — The  Colonel  said  the  above,  before 
Mayor  Cochrane  had  gotten  started.  Now  he 
goes  about  town  watching  the  work,  and  says: 
"  Rube,  I  declare  it  comes  the  nearest  sort 
looking  as  though  Montreal  has  at  last  got  a 
man  who  will  pull  her  out  of  the  mud.  That 
man  is  doing  things,  not  talking  about  it.  If 
ho  is  backed  up  by  the  city,  you  won't  know 
the  streets  and  sidewalks  by  the  time  he  has 
finished  his  second — or  third  term  at  furthest. 
/  hardly  know  some  of  the  streets  already. 
Yes,  Rube,  Cochrane  is  all  right,  and  I  guess 
as  Sam  would  say  :  '  Alder-men  helping  are 
all  right  too.' " 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
Baliiy  Oafsiea 


127 


U  here  one  jots  down  so  many  note<»  in  a  citv 
where  there  are  so  many  notes   to   jot  down 
one  18  liable  at  times  to  forget  why  some  of  thJ 
notes  were  jotted  down  at  all.      Now  see  this 

"  Rainy  Day." 

"  Rainy  Daisies." 

"  Montreal." 

"  Chicago." 

"  Intelligence  good." 

''  Understanding  same." 

"Same  Last  "-Regular  puzzle-who  could 
ever  unravel  notes  so  intricate  !  yet  they  must 
have  meant  something  as  they  are  right  in 
among  Montreal  notes.  It  may  all  dawn  upon 
me  some  time,  so  will  leave  them  in  for  the 
dawning  "Chicago"  "Montreal"-"Same  Last  " 
Give  it  up  ! 

The  Oolonel  Makes  a  Discovery. 
"  Rube,"  said  the  Colonel  one  evening  after 
a  walk  about  town,  "I  made  a  discovery  to- 
day.     I   got  into  a  part  of  Montreal  we   had 
not  jet  seen,  and  I  found  a  street,  four  blocks 
long  and  it  had  the  same  name  all  the  way:'      The 
Colonel  has  promised  to  take  me  to  see  it 
(The   Montrealer  will   appreciate  this  and  the 
tourist  will   find  it  out.)    The  Colonel   always 
brought  in  items  of  interest  and  things  he  had 
heard  o     'ng  the  day,  and  if  I  were  writing  an- 
other soK  jf  a  book  his  items  would  All  it. 

Mail  Boxes. 

"Colonel,"  said  I,  sealing  a  letter,  "  will  you 
mail  this  as  you  go  down  town  ?" 


128 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  Yes,  but,  by  the  way,  where  will  I  find  the 
letter  box  ?" 

"  Well,  you  go  east  four  blocks,  turn  south 
three,  turn  east  again,  and,  on  the  third  corner, 
you  will  find  it  on  that  building  with  the  red 
"front." 

"  All  right,  Rube,  I  never  knew  before  where 
it  was. 

The  Drum  Major. 

"  Honora,  dear,  I  hov  a  eauundrum  far  ye." 
"  What  is  it,  Michael  ?" 


^..   ^..TTr. 


"  Why,  air  the  Ryall  Scots  the  foinist — Here, 
now,  shtop  wunkin  yere  oies  at  the  Dhnim 
Major — He  cpn't  say  onything  below  the  roof 
loine — I  axes  ye,  why,  the  Ryall  Scots  air  the 
foinist  body  ov  Sojers  in  Montreal  ?" 

"  I  give  it  up,  Michael,  what's  the  answer  ?" 
"  I    doan't   know    ayther,    but     oi've    aften 
thought  !" 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  129 

She  Wanted  to  be  on  the  Hanging  Committee. 
"  Colonel,  (lid  .you    ever   think  of  the  many 
things  we  heat-  only  a  part  of  as  we  j,'o  alonj?  ? 
Now,  this  afternoon  as  I  came  up  St.  Catherine 
past  Phillips  Square,  I  saw  a  larf,'e  number  of 
■le  finest  looking  ladies  I've  seen  in  Montreal. 
^i>y  were  all  talking  about  an  exhlbFt  of  some 
kind.       The  word  '  poster '  seemed  more  pro- 
minent than  any  other.      One  lady  said  '  Well, 
if  the  artist  who  sent  it  is  ever  "fojuid  I,  for 
one,  want  to  be  on  the  hanging  committee—." 
Another  lady  spoke  up  and  said  '  Mv  husband 
says  it  was  so  true  to  life  !"     '  The  cruel,  cruel 
man  to  say  such  a  thing.'      I  couldn't  hear  any 
more,  but  as  far  as  I  could  see  them  they  were 

still    talking.        I   suppose   about   'that 

poster.'      I  would  so  like  to  know  what  it  was 
all  about." 

UNITED  STATES  CUSTOMS. 
Uncle  Sam's  interest    are  well    looked  after 
lip  here,  but  I  am  at  a  loss  to  know  how  ever 
Ohio  allowed  herself  to  be  left  clear  out  in  the 
make  up.    Just  think,  for  a  moment,  of  a  great 
city  like  Montreal  and  not  a  single  Ohio  man 
on  the  list— not  one  !     I  must  see  Uncle  Mark 
about  this  !    What  is  the  remarkable  part  of 
It  all  is  that  they  get  along  so  well  without  us 
and,  yet,  when  I  come  to  think  of  it  the  "  Ohio' 
of  the  East"  is  in  full  charge,  the  Customs  of- 
ficers, every  one  being  from  Vermont.     And 
again,  as  I  come  to  think  of  it,  it  is  not  more 
than  fair  that  since  we  furnish  the  Presidents 
our  rival  should  be  allowed  the  Customs— fair 
though  not  customary  f c  •  us  to  allow  anvthing 
where  there  is  an  office  to  fill. 


^wm^rm^^^ 


i:'.0 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


E.  H.  Twohey,  who  for  thirty  years  has  i-e- 
proscnted  us  in  Montreal,  is  at  the  Jiead  of  the 
Customs  Department.  I  can't  say  that  he  is 
"  well  and  favorably  known,"  even  though  of  so 
long  a  residence — that  is  except  to  the  better 
class  of  citizens,  with  whom  he  is  a  great  favor- 
ite. The  other  class  don't  seem  to  like  him  at 
all,  as  they  "  don't  have  no  chanct,"  for  let  one 
of  them  start  toward  New  York  with  a  bushel 
or  two  of  diamonds,  nina  hundred  to  one  he 
won't  get  more  than  across  the  line  until  he 
will  change  his  destination  and  lose  track  of 
his  diamonds.  Mr.  Twohey  is  ably  assisted  by 
M.  B.  Yaw  (whom  I  should  have  put  into  "  Mu- 
sical Montreal "),  J.  I^.  Maguire  and  W.  C. 
Hefflon. 


U.  S.  IMMIGRATION  COMMISSION. 

For  a  long  while  this  part  of  our  work 
could  have  been  about  as  well  done  from 
Washington  as  from  here.  This  assertion 
alone  would  carry  no  weight,  but  with  figures 
behind  it,  it  will  draw  down  the  scales  very 
materially.  This  is  not  an  examining  port, 
that  part  is  done  at  Quebec,  where  Colonel 
John  Thomas  is  in  charge,  and  as  the  Colonel 
is  an  Ohio  man,  I  need  not  say  it  is  well  done. 

This  is  an  inspection  office.  The  duty  is  to 
see  that  no  immigrant  shall  unlawfully  cross 
the  border — and  by  "  unlawfully  "  I  mean  that 
every  immigrant  must  have  a  certificate  from 
the  office  at  the  port  of  entry.  Many  immi- 
grants come  over,  give  their  destination  as 
Canada,  in  which  event  our  officers  have  noth- 
ing to  say — once  in  tht*  country  they  attempt  to 
cross  at  some  point  along  the  border,  and  it  is 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


l;!l 


the   province   of   this   office  to   prevent   that 
Now,  go  back  to  my  first  sentence— up  to  Sept. 
1,  of  last  year,  so  little  was  done  that  it  was 
hardly   worth    the    expense   of  keeping   men 
along  the  line.      Thousands  crossed  over  and 
so  readily  that  it  was  not  even  exciting.      I 
wouldn't  say  this  if  I  did  not  have  the  figures 
warranting  it.    Up  to  the  year  ending  June  80, 
1001,  there  were  turned  back  395  only.      From 
Hept.  1,  1901,  to  June   30,    1902,  ten  months, 
there  were  stopped  on  the  border  and  across 
nearly  5,000,  and  of  these,  39  were  deported 
from  U.  S.  ports,  and  1,977  found  not  accept- 
able owing  to  disease,  pauperism,  old  age,  etc., 
etc.      What  does  this  mean  ?      It  means  that 
tip  to  June  30, 1901,  the  service  was  so  lax  that 
there  was  only  a  semblance  of  barring  out  the 
undesirable,  and  that  the  halt,  the  maimed  and 
th^  blind  went  across  with  impunity,  and  very 
little  Lise,  to  begin  life  in  a  new  country,  to  en- 
joy the  privileges  of  our  almshouses  and  blind 
asylums.       But,  great    Scott  !  when    Robert 
>N  atcliorn  got  up  here  and   in  charge,   such   a 
halt  was  called  on  the  undesirable  that  they 
thought  that  something  had  dropped,  and  noW 
to  get  over  the   line   is   so  very  difficult   that 
even  the  smuggler  with  all  his  cunning,  finds  it 
so  hard  that  many  of  them  are  stopping  and 
ffoing  to  work.      Some  didn't  stop  soon  enough 
and  are  now  at  work  in  Auburn,  Sing-Sing  and 
other  of  our  popular  resorts. 

This  shows  what  the  right  men  in  the  right 
place  can  do,  and  if  ever  that  man  was  found 
las  name  is  Watchorn,  from  Pennsylvania.' 
His  equal  is  not  found  in  the  whole  Immigra- 
tion service.  He  has  a  force  around  him  that 
knows  only  to  do.      No  more  hoiding  office  for 


w 


132 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  revenue  only  !"  This  force  is  made  up  of 
II.  M.  Turner,  of  West  Virginia;  E.  J.  Wallace, 
Vermont;  and  Miss  Mary  Collins,  of  Washing- 
ton, D.C.  Then,  besides  this  board  at  Mont- 
real, thei-e  are  Colonel  H.  M.  Deal  and  Edw. 
Petit,  at  Port  Huron;  C.  C.  Williams,  at  Sault 
Ste.  Marie;  John  II.  Clark,  at  Buffalo,  .loseidi 
Francis,  at  Niagara  Falls,  and  Col.  C.  S. 
Forbes,  at  St.  Albans,  Vermont.  (The  latter 
is  the  editor  and  proprietor  of  ihat  deservedly 
jiopular  magazine,  "The  Vennonler.'') 

With  this  long  line  of  vigilant  members 
(with  Robert  Watchorn  in  charge  of  all)  Ca- 
nada will  have  to  look  after  the  "undesirables" 
who  have  heretofore  come  to  us,  and  already 
the  Dominion  is  wakingaip  to  the  fact,  that, 
however  much  she  may  welcome  the  desirable 
of  foreign  lands,  she  must  draw  the  line  at  the 
paupers  and  other  non-producers,  as  they  are  a 
tax  and  a  burden  on  any  land.  Ere  long  the 
(^anadian  ports  will  be  as  difficult  of  entry  as 
our  own,  and  the  universal  motto  from  Florida 
t(»  Labi-ador  will  be  "  Welcome  to  the  good  and 
n'fusal  to  the  ill." 

KUBE  TAKES  A  RUN  DOAVN  TIIROrCII 
THE  STATES. 

"  Colonel,"  said  I  one  day  in  Manh,  "  I  guess 
I'll  tiike  a  run  down  home,  and  while  there  sec 
what  the  s<'hool-children  know  of  (^anada." 
You  see,  "  The  Only  Percy"  had  bantered  me 
about  the  relative  knowledge  of  the  school- 
children of  our  two  countries,  "  Why,  Rube," 
said  Percy,  "our  Canadian  <'hildren  know  all 
about  you,  while  yours  know  nothing  about  us. 
Even  your     teachers  can't     bound     Canada." 


\.iamw-.  ^''^I'WM  'm^':'^'£-'mz^^m 


i 

J 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


133 


Percy  had  heai-d  of  that  Teachers'  Institute 
out  in  Iowa,  where  one  of  the  "  School-marir-' 
wiien  asked  to  bound  Canada,  said:  '' Ca.  iJa 
IS  hounded  on  the  north  by  the  St.  I^wr  ih" 
liiver  and  Hudson's  Bay,  and  on  the  soutl    Iv 
the  Great  Lakes.      It  is  1,000  miles  lonj;  and 
100  miles  wide.       It's  principal  city  is  Mont- 
ival,  a    town    of    50,000    inhabitants.*      Tlu' 
people   are  French    and    wandering   tribes  of 
Indmns.      Their  occupations  ar<'  hunting,  furs, 
and  making    snowshoes    and    moccasins,  and 
selling  lumber,  which  grows  all  over  the  coun- 
try.      They  spend  their  time  in  building  ice- 
I>alaces  and  going   tobogganing.       The   three 
men  who  figured  most  largely  in  Tanadii  were 
Wolfe,  Montcalm   and   Montgomery,   bu<    thev 
are  all  dead  now— and— and— I  guess  that's  ail 
I  know  about  Canada."     It  is  said   that   the 
superintendent  of  the  county  knew  about  as 
much  as  the  ''  School-marm,"  and  let  her  pass 
on  that;  but  that  was  in  Iowa.     So.  when  TVrcy 
ottered  to  wager  a  dinner,  I  took  him  up  and 
formulated  fifty  questions. 

Rube  Examines  Canadian  Schools. 
The  genial  IMincipjil  of  Peel  Street  School 
m  Montreal,  kindly  allowed  me  to  ask  his 
•  hildren  fifty  cpieslions  on,  '<  What  do  you 
know  about  the  TTnited  States?"  It  was  worth 
a  dozen  dinners  to  see  those  children  of  Peel 
StH^et  School  man'h  into  the  great  asse-mblv 
hall  that  morning— the  boys  from  one  side  and 
the  girls  from  the  other.     The  leader  (.f  each 

Note.— It    has    nearly  :{r.O.O(K>,  and    growinir 
verv  fast. 


134 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


■I-:- : 


carrying  the  British  flag,  while  the  pianist,  ont 
of  compliment,  played  our  own 

Tramp,  Tramp,  Tramp,  the  Boys  are  Marching. 

It  took  me  back  to  the  long  ago,  when,  as  a 
little  child,  I  watched  our  own  larger  boys 
marcli  to  that  tune  as  they  w<>nt  away  to  the 
wars.  These  children  answered  my  ijuestlons 
so  fast,  that  I  almost  felt  that  Percy  had  been 
wagering  on  a  certainty — which,  yon  know, 
don't  count.  I  was  sure  this  Peel  Street 
Sehool  was  exceptionally  well  informed,  and 
tliat  no  other  could  be  found  in  ('anada  able 
to  answer  as  it  had. 

Rube  Ooes  to  Quebec. 

So,  while  in  (Quebec,  attending  "  The  Week  of 
Sports,"'  I  asked  Professor  Young,  Principal  of 
the  Hoys'  High  School,  if  1  might  ask  tlie  (pu-s 
tions  about  the  United  States.  Without  a 
moment's  hesitation,  he  took  me  to  a  large 
room,  into  which  he  soon  had  the  ninety  boys 
of  the  school  congregated.  Then  I  found  that 
Montr<'al  was  not  the  exception. 

While  I  was  sure  that  the  Montreal  children 
were  right  when,  at  the  close  of  (he  examina- 
tion, they  answered,  to  my  cpiestion,  ''Will  1 
lose  the  dinner?"  "  You  will  you  will:"  yet  I 
would  give  our  own  schools  a  chance,  and  go 
down  and  visit  them,  especially  as  I  am  never 
happier  than  when  I  can  see  before  me  the 
bright  faces  of  children  upturned — ever  eager 
(o  learn.  It's  an  inspiration.  While  I  trem- 
ble and  (piake  at  the  sight  of  grown-up  people, 
if  I  must  speak  to  them,  I  am  at  ease  with 
(hildren,  for  I  love  them,  and  tliey  know  it, 
and  help  me  to  speak. 


4 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


]:!5 

wJiile  there  will  find  out  what  the  school-chil- 
dren know  of  Cauda."    ''What's  the  good-" 
u«ked  the  practical  Colonel,  -  what  will  vo 
gain  by  it  ?»  '"  ^^ 

"Now,  see  here,  Colonel-what's  the  good 
of  doing  anything-or,  as  the  small  boy  pun t 

tbm  !  It's  only  a  little  habit  I  have.  I  do 
things  that  please  me,  simply  because  it 
:  eases  ,ne  to  do  them.  What  do  we  get  in 
•fe,  anyhow!  Some  work  for  monev,  and  for 
money  only;  others  work  for  money 'that  tlu^- 
K  V  buy  pleasures.       Pleasure  is  the  end  for 

soo     ..?r  'T'^'r^  «^>  o"''  f^''>i"«  that   end 
soon  MMhan  he  who  gains  it  with  no  thought 
of  the  money.     I  love  Canada  and  when  I  love 
.    people,  I  want  others  to  know  that  people, 
•nd  in  no  way  do  I  see  how  I  can  easier  h!.^- 
<  anada  known,  than  to  set  the  children  o.    m 
own  country  talking  and  studying  about       . 
beautiful  north  land." 

I  little  tluMight  that  my  mission  would  be  so 
successful.       Instead  of  it  being  lo,al   to  the 

Po.n<sofmyvisit,thenewspap.;sofAuMMin^ 
o  k    t  „p,        ,      ,„.,,  J  ^^^^^  ^.^^^^^j^  ^^  ^^^^^^^  ^^^ 

C. mad--'-  »ot  only  the  children,  but  their  par- 

f  Canada  whi.h  to  me  wns  a  far  greateV 
pleasure  than  had  I  g,,ined  monev  inst.^ad  of 
1?;:;^  7  '\   ^^"-•'^-^•- --'--<  if  .von  care  to 

;  V   •';  T'-  '■""'"  '^'^  '''"""'^  ^'"■'•' » tell 

the  Colonel  about  it.  With  all  his  pra,-tical 
turn,  he  seems  anxious  to  hear  about  what  I 
saw,  heard  and  did  in  my  wanderings 


1-^.11 


136 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Rube  Tells  the  Colonel  all  About  It. 

''  Tell  me  flrst,  Kube,  bow  did  you  find  New 
York,  uow  tbat  Tammany  is  out  and  we  are 
in?" 

"  It  looks,  Colonel,  as  tbougb  ive  are  having  an 
up-bill  time  of  it.      Jerome  pr-omised  so  mueb 
before  and  is  doing  so  little  after,  tbat  Setb  bas 
bis  bands  full  in  doing  any  of  tbe  *  reforming' 
be  promised.     Tbey  bave  so  much  tbeory  tbat 
tbey  don't  seem  to  bave  any  time  left  for  tbe 
practical.       There's   a  limit   to   nearly   every 
man's  greatness — and  I  think  Low  reached  bis 
when  Mayor  of  Brooklyn.      When  I  asked  the 
privilege  of  examining   tbe    New  York  school 
children,  I  saw  tbe  Mayor,  because  I  thought 
he,    too,     was     interestdd     in     schools.        He 
sent    me    to    see    Maxwell.   Ah    me,   there's 
the      great      man      for      you  !        The      only 
trouble     is     that      he      knows     it     too     well 
himself.      He    is    at    tbe    bead    of    all     the 
schools — 'What?'      Oh! — no — he  sent  a  little 
girl  out  to  ask,  '  What  do  you  want.  Mister?' 
'  Want    to    see    tbe    Superintendent.'       Little 
girl  goes  into  bis  bigbness's  olllce — comes  back 
and  says.     '  Mister  Maxwell  says  what  do  you 
want'/'     Says  I — '  I  want  to  see  Mister  Max- 
well.'      I  kept  tbe  '  shuttle'  going  back  and 
forth,  (ben,  stated  my  errand,  and,  for  tbe  only 
time  on  all  my  tour,  was  flatly  refused — '  Can't 
allow  my  schools  t(»  do  anything  out  of  the 
ordinary,'     was     what   tbe     *  shuttle'    finally 
brought  out  of  tbe  office  of  his  highness.     No, 
Colonel,  I  didn't  get  to  see  Mr.  Maxwell  tbe 
Great,  but  I  did  examine  one  of  Mr.  Maxwell's 
schools  over  bis  bead,  and  was  greatly  pleased 
with  the  Prin<'ipii!,  who  allowed  me  to  test  bis 


The  Wandering  Yankee 


137 

school.  I  was  quite  surprised  at  the  readv 
answers  the  children  gave  to  ui.v  questions. 
The  1  nneipal  had  been  much  in  Canada,  and 
seemed  pleased  to  do  all  he  could  to  have  this 
country  known.  He  and  his  corps  of  teachers 
were  delightful  people  to  meet.* 

"  While  the  Principal  had  been  in  Canada, 
jet  he  could  not  be  said  to  be  '  up'  on  the  great 
men  of  the  Dominion,  for  when  I  asked,  '  Who 
IS  Lord  Strathcona?'  and  received  the  answer 
He  IS  Captain  of  the  horse  company  that  wnt 
to  Sou* h  Africa,'  he  said  the  question  was  not 
a  fair  one-'Why,'  I  i,.pii,.,i,  ererybodv  sh<,uld 
know  th(  greatest  man  in  Canada."    At  which 
he  said,  '  U  I  were  asked  who  is  the  greatest 
man  in  Canada,  I'd  say,  Sir  Donald  A.  Smith" 
When  he  learned  that  both  are  the  same  man", 
he  had  nothing  further  to  say  as  to  the  fairness 
or  the  question. 

At  Baltimore, 
I  had  no  trouble  to  get  to  ask  the  questions- 
thanks     to     that     rising    young    corporation 
lawyer,  Irvin  G.  Herman.      A  word  from   him 
gained  me  entrance  at  once  to  Prinripal  Elli- 
ott's school.      The  class  I  examined  here  was 
very    bright    and    quick,    and,    withal,    well 
informed.      It    was    here    that  I    canie  nea- 
winning  the  dinner,  and  I  think  would  have 
won  it  had  not  Percy's  fifty  ,,ues lions  required 
extraordinary   knowledge.      Yes,    Baltimore's 
was  the  best  class  of  all  the  cities,  and  nearly 
as  good  as  the  Montclair.  New  Jersev.  dass-l 
Ah,  that  is  the  school!  but  of  it  further  on. 

At  "Washlngrton, 
General  H.  V.  Boynton.  tho  i»rp«ident  of  the 
School  Boaid,  was  most  kind.     I  did  not  have 


'  S«e  Addenda,  "  Prize  VViimeM." 


138 


The  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


to  see  him  by  means  of  a  '  Shuttle.'  Ol'i,  no.  He 
sent  nie  to  Superintendent  Stuart,  who  pive 
me  the  famous  Franklin  School  after  which  so 
nmny  school  buildings  had  been  modelled.  liy 
this  time  so  much  notoriety  had  been  given  the 
tour  by  the  newspapers,  that  I  had  nmny  visi- 
tors in  attendance  that  afternoon.  The  oppor- 
tunity was  such  a  favorable  one  that  I  devoted 
much  time  in  talking  to  those  visitors,  th'-ough 
the  children,  telling  them  of  the  delights  of 
Canada.  One  of  the  boys  in  the  class  made  a 
gu(  .ss  at  nearly  every  question,  and  hit  so  many 
of  them  that  one  of  the  visitors  tried  to  hire 
him  to  go  to  the  races  to  guess  '  winners,'  but 
the  boy  wittily  replie'd:  'I'm  not  up  on  that 
sort  of  book  learning.' 
"  When  I  reached 

Philadelphia, 
I  went  direct  to  the  'Press,'  where  I  was  xi^vy 
cordially  re(eived    by  the     Uxost     genial  City 
Editor  on  the  tour. 

"  •  Hello,  Kube,  is  that  you  ?  Why,  I've  been 
looking  for  you  for  two  days.  Heard  you  were 
coming.     Now,  what  do  you  want  to  do?' 

"  '  I  want  you  to  get  me  into  the  best  school  in 
riiila.'  You  see,  I  used  to  live  in  that  town, 
and  wanted  that  it  should  make  a  good  show- 
ing. Well,  he  called  up  the  Superintendent, 
who  is  said  to  be  a  tine  man.  He  sent  me  to 
ti„>__\,),  I  won't  tell  you  the  name  of  the 
school,  as  I  used  to  live  right  near  it.  'Local 
p,.i,lt/__Sce?  The  rrincipal's  manner  would 
have  made  vinegar  seem  sweet  when  I  told  him 
my  mi^«*ion.  He  did  not  'approve  of  it,' 
'wanted  a  note  from  Dr.  B.'  Tall  up  Dr.  ».,' 
said  I,  when  he  doubted  my  word.— He  did  so. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


ia9 

;V"'  <J;<'"   H^'Hl,    unkinaiy:    'Well,    ,.„„„.    <,n" 
JIH'  class  could  fTUCHS  but   tw.Mitv  of  the   fifty 
questions,  Olio  of  which  was,  •  wi.cv  dr.cs  th',. 
Mi.ntrcal     paiallcd  pass    in    Europe?'     A  hov 
nskod     a     guess,     ^Norway    and    SwcmIcu.' "  I 
turned   to  the  Principal  and  asked:  -Is   that 
eoiToct?'      '  I  think  it  is,' said  he,  '  Well,  as  it 
IS  about  son  n.iies  too  far  north,  I  don't  think 
It  IS  correct.'     By  this  time  he  had  reaclied  21'> 
;<'poes    and    said:    'We    don't    teach    those 
thinjjs  here  I' 

^^'llat,  pray,  do  you  teacli  ?'    Tlien  he  took 
lue  down  into  the  large  hallway,  and,  waving 
Ills  hand  along  the  wall  at  a  number  of  framed 
«li-aw„igs,  said,  '  There-that's  what  we  teach!' 
I  looked  at  a  drawing  on  which  were  a  bird   u 
plant,  and  a  cow,  and  aske<l.  •  Uhv  did  t'he 
artist  (?)  put  that  plant  in  the  picture*''    '  Vnd 
wh.v  not."  he  queried.     '  Why,'  said  I,  pointing, 
(l.is  cow  might  eat  the  plant."      '  Oh,  oh,  tJia/s 
"oMhe  cow,  that's  the  bird  !'        I  would  have 
made  good  my  error,  but  he  would  none  of  i( 
I  In.d   reached   the   limit,  and   had   to   beat  u 
retreat. — 

Country  vs    City  School  System, 
•''••uldnot  but   note  the  ditfereiice  between 
he  school  systems  that  prevail  in  the  <itv  and 
tlu.se    that  ar<.   followed   in    the   countr;  and 
small  cities  and    towns.       In    the    ,iti(^s    the 
Hiildren  are  used  as  so  many  pawns.     Thev  are 
Hot  and   moved    as    th..ugh  inanimate    wood. 
I  Jie.v  are  taught  as  a  .  lass-as  a  whoh-.      The 
nidividual  IS  swalb.wed  up  and  ideutitv  is  lost  • 
^vhile  12!  the    rouhir.N.  ,.a<h    child    is    a    livin- 
moving,  thinking  being,  worthy  of  individu,?!' 
a  tention.      There  was  scarcely  a  city  school 
"'  all  my  tour  where  a  pupil  would  rise  in  his 


TSi"ir 


140 


The  IVamkring  Yankee. 


or  her  seat  and  answer  a  question  in  an  easy, 
self  confident  manner— wiiile,  on  the  other 
hand,  there  was  not  a  school  in  the  towns  and 
smaUer  eities  but  where  I  found  the  children 
could  fiet  right  up,  and  not  only  explain  a  ques- 
tion hut  often  go  into  the  details  of  it— and 
that,  too,  with  no  seeming  fear  of  the  machine 
teaching  system  of  our  great  cities.  Take,  for 
illustration,  the  beautiful  little  city  of 

Montolair 
nestling    at    the     foot     of      and     along     the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Orange  ^lountains,  in  New 
Jersey,   some    fourteen    miles   west   of    New 


RANDALL   Sl'AULDING. 

York  city.  Here  1  found  possibly  the  best 
scliool  system  of  all  the  places  I  visited.  It 
is  under  the  superintendance  of  Mr.  Randall 
Spaulding,  who  for  years  has  bad  charge  of  the 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  J41 

schools     He  seleot,  his  teachers  from  the  best 
Normals  of   all    the  Fnsf    ^^^   r.^^^,^  • 
splppf  f^,.  T  •  J^-ast— no   politician    can 

select  for  him  an  incompetent  teacher  siinnly 

faAored  friend,  nor  does  Mr.  Spaulding  choos.^ 

have  tau"!?';"'/""  ""  ^^"'••"'•^'«'  * '^-V  -"«t 
ha^e  taught  for  two  or  more  years  before  he 

wi  I  engage  them.      He  maintains  fhat  it    s 

not  always  the  bright  graduate  that  makes  the 


HI<:iI   SCHOOL,    MOXTCL.Ul!. 

successful  instructor.      The  teacher  must  h-ive 
act   as    well    as    knowledge-must      ot    on   • 
kno^^  but  be  able  to  impai'  kno^  edg^nn   ' 
pam  the  confidence  and  the  love  of  tl^.  pu   i,. 
then  the  best  results  are  attained.  '    '      ' 

nst  lu^'^n^  ^  '^"'"^  ^'^^*^^"*^ ""  Montc'air  ,la.s  to 

ask  the  00  questions,  I  saw  in  front  of  nu>  none 

;;;    ^^-e^-lnldren.      I  said  to  Miss  E  dnd  e 

H   Assistant  Superintendent/Mvdear  hdv- 

'^  's  not  a  fair  test-these  ehildi.n  are  nmc-h 


142 


The  Wandcriui^  Yankee. 


younnor  than  any  class  I  have  yet  cxaniint'd.' 
MIhs  Kl(liid};<'  simply  smiled,  and  said  in 
pleasant  contidenc*',  '  Well,  try  them,  and  He<' 
wliat  they  know.'  I  did  ivy  them,  and  y<>nn<i 
as  they  wore,  their  answers  snrprised  me.  My 
set  (juestions  seemed  easy  for  them — all  save 
those  in  history  and  facts  whicli  they  had  not 
yet  stndied.  I  asked  (jnestions  not  oji  my  list 
— I  picked  ont  an  island  so  small  and  so  dis- 


WINTEU  SCENE  IN  ItEUGEN  COUNTY. 


lHV   (;i  ').    M.    I.KONAKIM 


tant  that  I  was  snre  they  had  never  heard  of 
it,  and  clothed  the  (jnestion  with  all  the  ob- 
scnrity  I  could,"  "  What  is  Mauritius — a  moun- 
tain,— a  city,  a  people,  a  river  or  a  country?" 
"  An  island  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  east  of  Mada- 
pjascar,''  quickly  came  the  answer, — Wliy,  some 
of  them  even  knew  of  that  beautiful  book, 
'  I'aul     and     \'irj?inia,' — by    St.     Pierre — who 


The  Jraiidcring  Vaukcc. 


14;; 

'ru:;- ,;:;;■ ';;^n, " '-""" 

4  IIKMl         .|C    SCV  WJIM  f/.iii. 

ICCIl  >l>wl        ..1  •  *><I!S  lOllI'- 

'.    ami    ;,   w.»n,hM-  wIum.    i,    .,,„„.    to    uof 

nml^:         ''''^■'  ^^"^•''•'  '»^  '«  »>«""<!  <o  "'ak.  his 

"Tho  Ilijrh  School  buildiiifr  of  MoiUcl'iir    •, 
puture  of  Mhhh  I  lu'iv  sive  is  tho    Z    i. 
-'I  of  all  the  schools  I  Msited  '"^'" 

"  ^^  Uhal  I  was  dcliirhf    '     ifj,  ,,.i,.,.  . 
the  schools  of  Montclah..  .        ^""u'.T" 

;'-nncd  hMiK>  littio  city  ir;  r  ':h  :;;^ 

;;;t  .•on.pu,.e  its  b..a„tif,„„  paved  st..o  :^'.  1 
lv«-I»t  lawns,    mafinificont    cottayvs     etc     wiVl 

'ookinfT  after  then-  own  pockets  that  th<>  .mn',. 

-nocent  inhabitants  had  to  plod  tl.  •<    ^h'  Z 

n    d  from  rear  to  vear,  content  bocaus;  tl  e - 

™:no:^Jn^?;;--;^--'-"'tsnap 

ves    I  meant  to  tell    von,  but   he  e   theV   T' 

•ead  them  over  for  .yourself  while  I  re  t    fo,"- 

^m  tired  talking."  ''  ^"' 

•  See  Addenda,  "  Prize  Winners." 


CllEftiTEK  C.  JE1!«EV, 


^W: 


144 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


The  Colonel  Talks  on  Oeoffraphy. 
That  afternoon  the  Colonel  got  me  cornered 
again,  and  wanted  to  know  what  else  I  did 
besides  talk  to  the  children  about  Canada.  He 
first  tried  to  cheer  me  up  for  losing  the  dinner 
to  Percy.  "  No  wonder,  Rube,  you  lost,  when 
the  geography  makers  have  so  neglected 
Canada,  that  the  Canadians  themselves  could 
not  prove  by  the  geography  half  of  the  things 
of  interest  in  their  own  country.  Take,  for 
instance,  the  Lake  St.  John  country.  Why, 
you  can't  find  anything  about  that  great  lake 
save  a  little  spot  on  the  map,  looking  scai'cely 
large  enough  for  a  name,  and  yet  it  is  nearly 
five  hundred  square  mtles  in  extent,  and  has 
great  rivers  running  into  it,  which,  if  extended 
end  to  end,  would  reach  over  a  third  of  the  way 
across  the  continent.  It's  a  wonder  to  me  that 
I'arliament  don't  take  up  this  subject,  and  get 
out  a  map  worthy  of  these  places  of  real  in- 
terest. But,  we'll  not  talk  about  hat  now.*  I 
saw  by  the  newspapers  that  you  called  to  see 
Roosevelt.  Tell  me  at  >ut  him.  How  did  you 
like  him.  Rube?" 

Rube  Visits  the  President. 
"  Well,  you  see,  it  was  this  way.  I  said  to 
Senator  Proctor:  'Senator,'  said  I,  'I'd  like  to 
meet  a  real  live  President.  I  met  one  once, 
but  he  wasn't  a  real  live  one.  He  was  a  good 
duck  hunter,  but  a  poor  president — and  I've 
never  been  proud  of  meeting  him — I  met  him 
on  a  long  string,  and  I  guess  he  has  forgotten 
about  it,  as  there  were  so  many  others  on  the 
string  tJiat  day  at  the  White  House — that  I 
just  had  time  to  say,  'Hello,  how  are  things!' 


*  See  Addenda  on  "  Geograpliy." 


■^'i^LL 


The  Wandering  Yanhec.  145 

as  the  fellow  behind  pushed  me  alonjr_n„sh(Ml 
me  along  before  we  had  time  to  get  real  well 
acquainted.     Yes,  I  guess  he  has  forgott(.„  me 
and  I  won't  worry  about  the  meeting.      This 
time  I  want  to  meet  a  real  live  one,  and  I  don't 
want  to  meet  him  on  a  string,  either.'    •  itube  ' 
said  the  Senator,  '  I'll  introduce  jou  to  one  of 
the  hvest  Presidents  we  will  possiblv  have  in 
the  twentieth  century,'  and  on  Mondav  morn- 
ing he  took  me  to  see  Roosevelt." 
"Were  you  pleased  with  him''" 
."/Pleased  with  him."       Why,  Cdonel,  I've 
laid  out  to  be  a  very  old  man,  but  I  never  hon,. 
to  meet  another  who  will  please  me  mo.v  than 
1  eddy  If  I  hve  to  see  'em  all.   Why  the  minute 
I  saw  him  I  said  to  myself,  '  Rube,  here's  vour 
Ideal  President  that  you  wrote  about  in  Mv 
Friend  Bill-here  he  is,  and  you  needn't  lo(,k 
any  further,'  and  I  won't!     Why,  Colonel,  h(. 
touldnt  have  been  more    agreeable    to    meet 
had  he  been  one  of  us.    He  was  real  so.iable 
and  made  a  whole  roomful  wait  while  he  stood 
and  let    me  taik    to    him,  without  flinching." 
Brave  man!"  interrupted  the  Colonel,  Imt 
1  paid  no  attention  and  went  on. 

"Yes,  I  tell  you,  Colonel,  Roosevelt's  all 
right,  even  rf  a  lot  of  our  own  politicians  are 
not  giving  him  the  support  they  should." 

Why,  Rube,  do  you  mean  to  sav  our  own 
statesmen  are  not  giving  him  their  support''" 
No,  I  didn't  say  anything  of  the  kind-I 
said,  some  of  our  own  Politicians  are  not 
giving  him  their  support.'  There's  a  verv  wide 
difference  between  a  politician  and  a  states- 
man-one lives  and  fights  for  a  policv,  and 
then  dies,  and   is    soon   forgotten,  the'  other 


146 


The  IVaiidcring  Yankee. 


The  Wmidcrin^  Yankee.  147 

fiKlits  for  a  pHnciph-  and  gets  himself  into 
Instorv  and  liis  descendants  are  proud  to  ti-aee 
tl.cniselves  back  to  luni-and  the  longer  he  is 
ih-ad  the-  prouder  they  get.  I  know  what  thost 
politicians  have  in  mind— hut  that  '  What '  will 
m-vcr  he  anything  more  than  a  visitor  in  the 
>N  hif,.  House,  even  though  he  is  from  Ohio. 

Rube  Calls  on  the  Mayor. 
"  ITow  did  you  like  the  new  Mavor,  Rul)e?" 
"Oh,   very  much  indeed— until"  I  met  him 
\n\\  Hien  he  has  his  hands  so  full  just  now  that 
he  should    be  pardoned    for    not    making    the 
passing  stranger  like  him.     I  tell  von,  ('olonel 
tilings  are  all  mixed  up  down  there.     Nobody 
knows    just  where    he  stands    except  '  Dick' 
<'ioker,  and   ln' only  found  out  aff.r  the  an ' 
«h'iit.      Nixon  tliought  he  knew,  but  gave  it  ui 
and  went  back  to  ship  building. 
**  I  stopped  at 

Albany 
on  my  way  uik-I   found   much   to    see   in   the 
'•apital.     It  is  a  very  tine  city. 

"  I  never  knew  before  that  the  (}overnm(«nt 
arsenal  town  of 

Watervliet 
was  a  suburb  of  Albany,  only  a  short  distance 
y  on  the  trolley  line  between  the  Capital  ami 
'  I  oy.     I  stopped  off  to  see, 

The  Larfirest  Gun  in  the  World, 
>yhich  fo.-  tlvo  years  has  been  under  construc- 
tion at  this  immense  gun  factorv  It  is  now 
almost  completed.  F.  E.  Hin  ',  gave  me 
many  points  i>f  interest  about  th.s  giant.  It  is 
4{i  feet  and  2  inches  long,  over  5  feet  througl, 


'  *tuh\ 


148 


i; 


I 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


f  ''  jj    'i     '\' 


ilii 


at  the  breach,  16-inches  bore-^weighs  130  tons, 
—and,  with  1,200  lbs  of  powder,  it  is  expected 
it  will  throw  a  2,000  lbs.  shot  twenty-one  miles. 
Here  is  a  miniature  picture  of  a  beautiful 
lady— an  officer's  wife— taken  in  the  gun.  She 
looks  out  as  though  in  contented  comfort. 

"There,  now.  Colonel,  I'm  tired  talking, 
besides  this  fs  not  a  book  of  travel  and  notes 
on,  '  Them  as  I  have  met  on  the  run,'— no,  and 
I  am  going  to  stop  short  off  about  that  tour- 
pay  for  the  dinner,  and  beg  of  the  teachers  of 
my  country  just  one  thing — never  again  get  a 
poor  lone  brother  Yankee  off  into  a  foreign 
country  and  make  him  aose  a  dinner  just  be- 
cause you  hadn't  taught  your  children  about 
that  country.  Now  please  get  to  work  and 
teach  Canada— it  is  a  country  worthy  your 
attention,  as  you  will  see  when  you  come  up 
here  on  your  next  vacation." 

QUESTIONS  ON  UNITED  STATES. 

Here  are  the  «iuestions  asked.      I  give  them 
for  the  teachers  of  both  countries. 

What  is  the  area  of  the  United  States? 

What  is  the  area  including  Alaska^ 

How  is  the  United  States  divided? 

How  many  States  are  there? 

How  many  territories? 

Which  is  the  largest  State? 

Which  is  the  smallest  State? 

What  is  the    largest    river    in    the    United 
States? 

What  are  four  of  its  principal  tributaries? 
Where  does  the  Pennsylvania  R.R.  begin? 
Wliat  do  you  know  of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.R.? 
Whei'e  is  New  Orleans? 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


149 


On  which  side  of  the  river? 
How  is  the  river  kept  in  bounds* 

clear?"^  '^  "'''  ''^'''""''^  ^''^''^  ^""^  ^'''^'""'*  J^^I>t 

What  river  separates  Texas  from  Mexico^ 
Uhere  is  tlie  District  of  Columbia « 

TT  ^V'J*ci^  **'•'    ^''"'^    ^^  government  of    the 
United  States? 

What  is  the  name  jjiven  the  head  of  the  irov- 
ernment?  "^  ^uv 

How  is  the  President  elected? 

What  is  the  representative  body  called? 

How  are  the  representative  members  elected? 

How  are  the  Senators  elected? 

What  is  the  state  government? 

What  ai-e  the  two  branches  of  state  govern- 
ment? h"'V,JU 

How  are  they  elected? 

W^hat  do  you  know  of' the  Mexican  war,  and 
when  was  it?  ' 

What  great  war  was  fought  since  the  Mexi- 
can war? 

Name  the  three  great  generals  in  the  North 
SoutT""   """''''  ""'    *''*'    ^^"^^  generals  of    the' 
W^hat  Pnesident  freed  the  negroes? 

Where  was  he  from,  and  what  became  of 
iiitn  ? 

Who  is  President  now? 
Was  he  elected  President? 
Where  is  New  York  City? 

Who  was  the  first  President  of  the  United 
s^tatesf 

Of  whom  did  we  buy  Alaska? 

What  did  we  pay  for  it? 

What  great  river  runs  through  Alaska? 


150 


The  Wandering  Yankc 


cee. 


On  what  degree  of  parallel  is  New  York 
City  ? 

Where  does  that  parallel  pass  in  Europe? 

What  river  separates  Indiana  from  Illinois 
in  part? 

Which  is  the  larger  State,  New  York  or 
Pennsylvania  ? 

How  far  is  it  from  New  Y'ork  City  to  the 
Western  Coast  of  Australia?  ("8,000  miles 
straight  through,"  from  a  little  fellow  in  the 
centre  aisle.) 

How  are  the  States  divided? 

How  are  the  counties  subu'vided? 

Which  is  the  larger,  the  1*.  If  of  Mexico  or 
Ohio? 

Where  are  the  Allegheny-  Mountains? 

What  is  the  population  of  B.altimore? 

When  was  America  discovered? 

QUESTIONS  ON  CANADA. 


What    is    the    area    of    the    Dominion    of 
(.'anada? 

What  is  the  area  including  Newfoundland? 

How  is  Canada  divided? 

How  many  provinces  are  there? 

How  many  territon\?s? 

What  is  the  largest  river  in  Canada? 

Name  four  of  its  principal  tributaries. 

Which  is  the  largest  province? 

Which  is  the  smallest  ? 

Where  does  the  Canadian  Pacific  Uailway 
begin  and  end  ? 

What  do  you  know  of  the  Q.  &  L.  St.  John 
R.R.? 

Where  iti  Moutreal? 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  i^i 

IIow  d(,  ocean  going  vessels  get  from  Mout- 
rejii  to  tlie  sea? 

During  lunv  long  is  the  River  St.  Lawrence 
open  for  navigation? 

Whjit  is  the  route  from  Montreal  to  ChicaL'o 
hy  water?  .  *' 

What  river,  tributary  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  is 
famous  for  its  scenery? 
Where  i*i  the  seat  of  Federal  ^?overnment?  ^ 

w  ''\  •'  ^r  ^"""  ""^  -'»^''''""»'»t  in  ('anada/ 
\Vhat  IS  the  name  given  to  the  head  of  the 

government? 

IIow  is  he  chosen? 

What  are  the  upper  and  l.)wer  houses  called"' 

How  ai-e  the  members  of  the  House  of  Com-' 

mons  elected?  ' 

How  do  men  become  Senators? 

What  do  you  know  of  the  Provincial  (Jovern- 
ment? 

What  are  the  names  of  the  two  parties  in 
Canadmn  politics? 
Which  party  is  in  power  now? 
What  extraordinary  power  has  the  (}overn,»r- 
Cenera  of  Canada  over  the  House  of  Co„,. 
inons,  that  the  President  of  the  ITnited  States 
has  not  got  over  Congress? 

1837-8  ?     "^^    •'''"    ''"*''''  ""^    ^'"'    H<.bellion  of 
Who  owned  (^anada  before  the  Pritish  '> 
Vshni  Pritish  (Seneral  fell  at  Quebec^ 
>>hat  American  General? 
What  French  ? 

Which  of  the  past  statesmen  of  Canada  was 
the  greatest,' 

wa\?.f  ;''^«"f' .'"  ^'»'  ^^overnmeni  of  Canada 
was  effected  during  his  <erm  of  office? 


152 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


'^  tn 


Wlio  is  the  GoveroorGeBeral  now? 
'^"^'trt.t    Ooverno.Ge»e..a>    of 

United  States?  '  ^ 

Which  is  nearer  Asia^  . 

What  great  river  empties  into  Lake  \vin 

^'Sn  what  degree  of  Jatitude  is  Montreal 

Where  does  t^e^^— gh  ^^^^^^ 
Wliat  rivers  run  inrou^u  x^i 

"tM^tCl^irger  Province,  Kew  Bran. 

^t:S™  utl  Montrea.  to  tbe  west 

-H^^aX'p-ineesaiviaeai 
HOW  are  the  CountieB  JuM.ndedJ 
Wliioh  is  tlie  larger,  Lake  Superior  o 
Province  of  Manitoba? 
Wter^  are  the  Laurentian  Mountains? 
Who  iB  Lord  Strathcona?  p_„„ii? 

When  was  Canada  taken  from  the  French , 

BCBE  ATTEHnS  A  SCHOOL  CLOSING. 
Shortly  after  my  returnj-m    the    school 
tour,  I  attended   t^c,^"^  "^\,„«  delighted 

'rl  traf  daT"™hl  cMia-  -tin  e.ce,- 
heard  that  day.      i  particularly, 

lent  time  and  wha   I  "ff^^-^^^  J^at  would 
TaTedrcUrtVa  trained  chorus.      The 


The  iVandcring  Yankee. 


153 


ce 


singing  was   under  the  charge   of   Miss 
KoHs,  whose  method  is  u  credit  to  the  music  or 
Montreal. 

As  this  boolv  will  be  seen  by  many  of  the 
School  Principals  of  the  States,  I  will  sav 
that  a  most  excellent  method  prevails  here,  in 
the  way  of  rewarding  children  for  their  work. 
Very  wisely,  presents  are  not  given,  but  in- 
stead merit  cards,  showing  the  degree  of  profi- 
<u'ncy  among  the  various  grades. 

It  was  a  pleasing  sight   to   see  the  children 
march  past  on  their  way  to  rtn-eive  their  re- 
ward.   One  little  fellow,  whose  name  I  forgot 
to  get,  was  made  an  exception  of,  not  onlv  bv 
his  particular  school,  but  by  the  City  School 
Board.      He  was  given  a  metal  medal  and  an 
American  ten-dollar  gold  piece.       I  menta'ly 
hurrahed    for  the  "  Eagle,"  when    I    saw  the 
imrpose   to  which  it  was  put.      I   forget  what 
the   httle   fellow  had  done,  but   it  was  some- 
thing remarkable.      When  the  distribution  of 
rewards  was  over  speeches  were  made,  inter- 
spersed with  song.      I   had   a   great  desire  to 
speak    and    tell    the   children    how  pleased    I 
was,  not  only  with  the  creditable  closing  ex- 
ercises, but  with  the  schools  of  the  city  gener- 
ally, and  how  they  compared  with  those  I  had 
visited  ill  the  States.      There  wasn't  time  for 
all  and  I  didn't  si)eak.      At  one  point  particu- 
larly I  would  like  to  have  rejilied  to   a    man 
whose  accent  was    a   foreign  one,  which  was 
pleasing,  not  the  accent,  but  the  fact  of  its  be- 
ing foreign,  as    I  felt  that  he  had  not  alwavs 
lived  in  Montreal,  where  facts  are  first  proven 
then  given.       He  sneeringly  referred   to  the 


L 


154 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


I 


« Land  of  the  free,  to  the  south  of  us,"  and 
told  those  dear  children  how  that  the  colored 
children  were  not  treated  well.  I  would  like 
to  have  told  them  that  in  many  of  the  schools 
I  visited,  the  colored  pupils  were  not  only 
well  treated  but  that  they  were  often  among 
the  bright  ones  of  the  class.  This  he  can 
verify  and  if  seeking  honest  information,  he 
would  have  done  so  before  giving  children 
misinformation. 

Among  the  speakers  was  Dr.  McVicker, 
whose  oratory  somehow  called  to  mind  our 
own  great  Wendell  Phillips.  The  Doctor  be- 
lieves with  the  oM  Greek  :  instil  in  the  boy 
what  you  would  have  the  man  do.  If  a  score 
of  years  ago  the  orators  had  visited  the 
schools  ou  cloning  day,  and  told  the  children 
that  "  the  Montreal  sidewalks  are  very  bad," 
those  children  would  now  be  voting  to  have 
them  repaired.  The  Colonel  exclaimed  on  the 
way  home    the    other    night,  "  Oh,  for    more 

orators  !" 

"  What's  the  matter,  Colonel  ?" 

"  Oh,  I've  gone  through,"  and  I  had  to  go 
back  and  help  him  out. 

Again  I  would  like  to  have  had  the  privi- 
lege of  a  few  minutes  talk.    The  children  sang 

Ben  Bolt. 
It  brought  to  mind  my  dear  old  friend.  Dr. 
English,  who  passed  away  during  my  visit 
house  in  April.  I  would  have  enjoyed  telling 
them  of  him.  It  would  have  made  the  song 
seem  more  interesting  than  it  is,  to  know  of 
the  man  who  wrote  it,  fifty-nine  years  ago. 
Lr.  English  was  a  reiparkable  character.      A 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


155 

writer,  a  poet,  and  yet  witU  all  lie  l,-i,1 
done  m  life  he  would  have  past  out  and  in  a 
w^et'^o'ld  l-'-r'^-.wereitnotf"';  It, 
(eTrtolnr^'"1"."'''"y'"""«  I  -^'dto 
he  dWikTi  1  '"■'"'  P''*'""''  «»  ■""'^l'  dW 
sav    "  Wh      K  T  "  '''*™  "'•      He  used  vo 

80ng  !  I  ve  done  work  of  merit.  It  has  none 
and  yet  lives  while  the  others  I  did  long  Z^ 
ago,  when  I  wrote  Ben  Bolt,  have  died  n„a 
passed  out  of  mind."      "  Doctor  "I  t^M  i 

-e  day,  "Ben  Bolt  lives,  rtVitsLHT 

Honie  SweerHleTou'ld  :::^^„l^^ 
writer  if  merit  alone  lived." 

.iljf^^  .^'™   """^   ^^y  ^«w   its   popularity 

mu    c  'A^o'i f  '^   'f  ^^*  *^^  woods' to  the 
music.     No,  It  came  about  in  this  wav    Snmo 

part       One    of    the  actors,  remembering  mv 
words-which  at  first  were  used  as  a  r^ciTa 
tion-he  set  them  to  music,  whether  hirown 
composition  or  not,  I  do  not  remember       He 
did  not  remember  the  exact  words   in   all  the 

rr-  '"TiJton'  ^T '''  *^^-'  ^'"  -' 

wS  of  fllf       T"    "^^^^'^    "^^    the    true 
words  of  the  few  changed  lines  and  thev  were 

even  more  beautiful  than  those  now  sung     " 
Ai?en   Pnf  w-n.^'  contemporary  with   Edgar 
itw      wr;r   '"T   ^""""   ^'y^'^''   Longfel. 
kni;    weir"''., ''"''"'''    •'^"     «^     ^"om     he 
poet     Wn  i'""    contemporary    with     the 

poet    WUham    Ross    Wallare,    author    (this 


156 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


is  not  generally  known)  of  "The  band 
that  rocks  the  cradle  moves  the  world." 
To  sit  and  hear  him  talk  of  those  old  poets 
seemed  to  be  listening  to  a  message  from  an- 
other sphere.  He  too  is  gone — the  last  of  the 
old  coterie  of  American  poets. 

Again,  I  should  like  to  have  told  the  boys 
who  failed  to  win  a  merit,  that  it  is  not  al- 
ways those  who  head  the  class  in  school  who 
win  the  prizes  held  out  by  the  business 
world.  There  was  a  boy  in  a  school  who 
could  not  work  the  problems  in  Lebody's  Phy- 
sics. He  failed  four  consecutive  years,  and 
yet,  within  the  past  month,  that  boy 
has  worked  out  problems  in  physics 
which  Lebody  himself  had  failed  to  solve — 
the  foot  of  the  class  now  able  to  teach  the 
great  teacher.  It  was  work  and  a  whole  lot 
of  it  boys — work,  not  talent  alone  that 
counts. 

Yes,  I  would  have  been  pleased  to  have  had 
just  five  minutes.  While  it  might  not  have 
been  entertaining,  it  would  not  have  been 
stei'eotyped — a  variety  too  often  doled  out  at 
school  closings.  The  boys  won't  listen,  they've 
heard  it  too  often  before. 


"  ISN'T  IT  AWFUL  COLD  UP  THEr  •  ?" 

came  near  being  a  joke  during  my  run  among 
the  cities.  Nearly  everybody  seemed  to  have 
the  impression  that  Canada  is  cold — had  it 
myself  before  I  spent  a  delightful  winter  in 
Montreal — and  to  be  real  "  sociable,"  all  felt 
that  they  must  speak  of  the  weather,  as 
though  it  were  inseparably  and  permanently 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee.  157 

subject,  and  ..ecallod  an  ancient  joke  of  the 

I  p.  3^'.s  "  Id  say,  sober  like,  "  Canada  is  very 

old-up    ovvards  the  pole-wh.v,  bless  y<,u,  my 

<l<'ai-  sir,  I  ve  seen  iec-  in  the  streets  in'jnne- 

ire  several  inches  thick."      ^^  What-in  June« 

P  e  '  n  .  •  1'^"^'  ""^  ''^*^  ««  "'^  ™'ddle  of 
:,'  'it  •'^'""^:  th<^  streets  of  Montreal!  but, 
.en  ,it  s  possibly  a  ^ood  thing,  they  have  to 

so'*'    Vn^''      T,r"  '-''^  *''^^'  ^•'^^'^  t«  have  it 

W-  ^^i      "r   ^  ^-'^^  ^••''  ^"""Sh  ''i^«.>'  I'd  tell 
em.     Have  to  have  it  to  cool  off  the  air"' 

think  !t'^  '"'1?  ^'''^.  ™"'^^  *"'"•  K'-^^-nuP  people 
think  It  s  cold  up  here.  This  generation  will 
have  to  die  off  before  the  "  Ice  Palace"  microbe 
gets  out  of  the  minds  of  the  grown-up  portion 
of    t-but.  .  ear-oh,  dear,  how  it  worries  me 

"  Cold  r       .T- '".*,  '!^^'^'""  ^'^'^^'^"^  »P  ^ith 
Cold  Cr  .  Ida'   m  their  little  heads.      Only  u 

tinuallv  receiving  from  the  children,  who  are 
jompeting  for  a  prize  I  offered  on  the  «  Bent 
letter  on  Canada"*  the  little  girl  wrote  anfong 
ur  many  innocent  errors:  "Life  in  Canada  is 
a  most  enjoyable  existence.      The  little  bovs 

I(e  Palace,  which  is  illuminated!      The  theu- 
sand    shades    of    coloring  thrown    off  by  the 

told    n        n     ^'"^•''   '^™^    "P    ''^^«    «°d    sit 

^iind^a  while  she  would  find  that  nothing 

+  Sr~?''™i'iT  ?*!"""  '■«  '■»  ^rontreal. 
t  JNote.— See  Addenda,  "  Prize  Winners." 


158 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


short  of  an  ice  palace  could  bring  down  the 
thermometer  below  90  in  the  shade.  If  I  ever 
take  another  tour,  dear  American  reader,  don't 
say  "  cold"  to  me  once,  else  I  must  set  you 
down  as — misinformed,  for  Canada  at  its 
worst  is  delightful. 


/r^^r^-^ 


-r  t 

1! 


i  : 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


159 


Iboto  to  Sw  /IRontral. 

Usually  wlH-n  tourists  go  to  tlie  expense  of 
travelling  and  paying  hotel  bills,  they  want  to 
«ee  everything  worth  seeing,  but  how  many  are 
there  who  travel  who  know  hozv  to  see  They 
get  into  a  city,  go  to  a  hotel  and  next  morning 
8  art  out  to  walk,  having  formulated  a  definite 
plan,  which  they  lose  before  they  have  turned 
two  corners,  then  they  drift,  and  the  minute  a 

mone>  He  goes  out  at  random,  and,  in  many 
cases  nnks  that  because  he  is  walking,  he  is 
doing  the  town  or  city  economically,  forgettinir 
that  economy  is  the  judicious  exj^enditure  of 
money. 

Now,  I'm  not  going  to  tell  you  to  drive,  for 
my  own  gain,  as  I'm  not  in  the  cab  or  carriage 
line,  but  for  your  own  good  I  cannot  too 
strongly  urge  you  to  visit  a  city  pro,>erIy,  and 
there  is  no  proper  way  but  to  be  driven  about 
as  the  driver  acts  not  only  as  driver  but  guide 
as  well.  ^    "^ 

For  the  better  guidance  I  have  had  maps 
made  the  one  to  show  you  the  <ity  and  island, 
with  the  nvers,  and  the  other  showing  the 
main  part  of  the  city  with  the  points  of  inter- 
est numbered. 

I  start  at  the  Windsor   Hotel   because  it  is 
noc  only  centrally  located  for  depots,  eh,irche« 
etc.,  and  m  the  best  part   of  the  city,  but  be- 
cause it  is  like  one  of  our  own,  and  one  can  feel 
at  home  while  seeing  the  city.    Now,  without 


I! 


160 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


The  ll^'andcring  Yankee. 


161 


IH'climiuary,  just  follow  the  ('oloiicl  niul  inc. 
The  tour  of  the  streets  is  exactly  as  we  made 
it,  and,  bv  followiri};  it.  you  will" see  Montreal 
to  the  best  advaiitafje. 

We  started  from  tlie  Windsor  at  ten  o'clock. 
Now  follow  ri{?ht  alonj;  and  I'll   tell  vou  all 
about  it.    And  "all  about  it"  makes  one  of  Uie 
most  intei-estinfr  day's  outing  I've  had  in  Mont 
real.     No  one  will  believe  that  this  historic  citv 


DOMINION   HgiAUK, 

jiUM  so  niueh  worth  seeiuK,  until  one  has  gotten 
into  the  carriage  of  a  driver  who  knows  the 
town  as  our  Sam  knows  it. 

We  had  hardly  «tarte«i  when  Ham  stopjM'd  nt 
the  corner  of  Dorchester  and  l»eel  streets,  ai.d 
began  pointing  out  places  in  sight.     ''There 
in  front  of  us,  to  the  east,  U 


162 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Dominion  Square, 


One  time  an  old  cemetery,  now  converted  into 
a  beautiful  park.  To  the  right  you  see  the 
monument  (?)  of  Sir  John  Macdonald — just 
opposite  is  the  Lion  drinking  fountain,  by  G.W. 
Hill,  sculptor,  after  A.  Bartholdi.'  To  the 
left  of  Dorchester,  on  the  corner  of  Metcalf 
Street,  is  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building,  and  opposite 
is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  James, 
sometimes  miscalled  St.  Peter's,  because  of  its 
having  been  modelled  after  the  church  at  Rome. 

"  There  on  the  corney  just  opposite  to  where 
we  are  sitting  is  the  Dominion  Square  Method- 
ist Church,  Rev.  C.  E.  Manning,  pastor.  Now 
we  pass  on  down.  To  the  right,  on  the  next 
corner,  is  St.  George's  Anglican  Church,  with 
its  beautiful  chime  of  bells,  the  gift  of  Mr. 
A.  F.  Qault. 

Across  the  street  is  the  magnificent  station 
of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad,  called 

The  Windsor  Station, 

built  in  the  castellated  style.  On  the  corner 
where  Windsor  street  runs  into  St.  James, 
(once  Bona  "Venture  street),  is  the  Queen's 
Hotel,  a  popular  stopping  place  for  tourists 
and  commercial  men.  Just  across  St.  James 
is  the  Grand  Trunk  station,  known  as 

Bonavsntur*  Station, 

from  which  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  railroad 
to  New  York,  and  all  points  South,  starts." 

"  Hold  on  a  minute,  Sam,  you  have  talked  so 
fast  I  didn't  gpt  to  «jik  yon  about  thone  two 

*Note. — The  inscriptions  on  the  four  sides 
are  worth  a  careful  study. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  163 

cannon  in  Dominion  Square,  near  Sir  John's 
monument.    Have  they  any  history ?" 

th«t  1  '^/'/*'  ^^^'  *^^"^  ^^  th«  cannons 
^c7Z^  ^""^^  ^*  ^^"  «*^«^  «^  Sebastopol  in 

men?  rth  ""T':^  ^^  *^"  ^°^P^"^^  Govern- 
ment to  the  city  of  Montreal." 

*'Do  they  ever  go  off,  Sam?" 

'*No,  but  they  came  near  it  wance.  whin 

ea4^r'tr'"^i'"'  ''^  ^"y  ^«»'^»'t  take  anv 
care  of  thim,  offered  to  take  thim  aff  and  put 
'em  m  respictable  shape."*  ^ 

to  Xotl^n''^''^"*"'^  ®*^"«"  ^^  Pa««  through 
to^otre  Dame  street,  which  widens  at  this 
point  and  is  known  as 

ChftboUlec  Sqiuire. 
Passing  from  thence  down  Inspector  street  to 
Old   (  ollege   street,  now  St.   Paul,  we  pass  St 
Edward's  Church  at  the  left,  then  c^mes 

The  Haymarket, 
once  a   part  of    the  enclosed    gard.  •  of    the 
i^ollege,  small  portions  of  which  muy  still  be 
seen  here  and  there  as  parts  of  the  new  struc- 
tures.   On  this  street  are  several  very  ancient 
houses,  typical  of  the  French  regime.      One  of 
the  earliest,  if  not  the  very  first,  theatre  of 
Montreal,  is  still  standing,  at  No.  573,  corner  of 
St   Henry  street.      It  is  now  used  as  stores. 
*rom  thence  we  pass  on  to  McGill  street,  run- 
ning toward  the  river.      To  the  right  are  the 
new  and  very  beautiful  offices  of  the 

•Note.-These  guns,  within  the  past  few 
days,  have  been  put  in  a  shape  that  even 
Ottawa  would  say  was  "  respictable." 


164 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Orand  Trunk 
railroad.    In  front  of  this  great  building  is  the 
Square  forming  the  site  of  the 

Old  Parliament  Building, 
destroyed  by  fire  in  the  riot  of  1846. 
At  the  foot  of  McGill  we  drove  into 

Commissior.ers  Street, 
wliich  forms  the  river  front.  A  little  west  of 
this,  begins  at  the  canal,  the  new  Harbor  Com- 
mission improvements,  a  stone  dyke  and 
wharves.  Passing  along  Commissioner  street 
we  see  to  the  left  the  immense  pile  of  buildings 


■2>0MaJ%2r«a.t 


First  Map  of  Montreal. 

known  as  the  examining  (Customs)  warehouse, 
alongside  of  which  is  the  handsome  building 
oiTupied  by  the  Harbor  ''ommissioners,  who 
are  doing  great  work  for  the  city  and  harbor. 
And  a  little  further  on  is  the  small  building 
containing  the  offices  of  the  great  Allan  Steam- 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


IGi 


ship  Line,  that  runs  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Continuing  along  Commissioner  to  Poiute  a 
Calheres,  we  come  to  the 

New  Custom  House, 
a  long  triangular  building.      This   is   said   to 
have  Iieen  the  place  where 

Maisonueuve  Landed, 

in  1042— and  held  his  first  religious  service  on 
the  island. 

From  the  Custom  House,  looking  west,  just 
after  turning  around  its  front  from  Commis- 
sioner street,  you  see  a  long  place  widening  out 
to  McGill  street.  This  square,  so-called,  be- 
<'ause  it  is  not  square,  but  long  and  narrow,  has 
recently  been  named 

Place   D'Youvllle, 
In  honor  of  Madame  D'Youville,  of  historic 
memory.     Around  this  spot  cluster  more  of  the 
old  than  any  other  in  Montreal.     On  many  of 
the  buildings  are  placed  tablets  commemorat- 
ing the  early  events.    Beginning  at  the  new 
Custom  House,  at  Pointe  tl  Callieres,  on  Place 
Hoyal,  or  Custom  House  Square,  bv  which  two 
names  it  is  varyingly  known,  you  see  on  the 
east  front  of  the  Custom  House  fwo  tablets 
one  telling  you  that  Champlain,  in  1(511,  select- 
od  this  site  and  named  it  "  La  Plac'  Royal  " 
The  se.ond  table!  reads:  "Near  this  spot,  on 
the  18th  day  of  May,  1042,  landed  the  founders 
of  Montreal,  commanded  by  Maisonneuve." 

(Mng  west  along  Place  D'Youville  to  Port 
street,  on  the  office  building  of  the  great  firm 
of  the  Ogilvies— is  this  tablet:  "Site  of  the 
Chateau  of  Louis  Hector  de  Callieres,  Governor 
of  Montreal,    1684--of  New    France,    1698  to 


■'fiX  ■->-■■ 


166 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


u 


1703.  He  terminated  the  14  years'  Iroquois 
war  by  treaty  at  Montreal,  1701."  In  front  of 
where  you  see  this  tablet  only  a  few  yards 
away,  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  is  seen  a 
pointed  stone  shaft,  with  copper  tablets  on  its 
four  sides,  giving  the  names  of  the  first  colonists 
and  many  other  things  of  interest.  It  was 
erected  by  the  Historical  Society  of  Montreal. 

Uoing  back  to  the  Custom  House,  you  see 
just  across  the  way,  (north  towards  St.  Paul 
street),  the  old  Montreal  Hotel,  the  once  great 
resort  for  Southerners,  before  and  during  the 
war  of  the  Rebellion.  It  is  now  occupied  be- 
low by  offices,  while  in  the  upper  part  is  the 
Sailors'  Institute. 

The  old  Custom  Hoilse  still  stands  to  the 
right,  but  is  now  occupied  as  the  Revenue 
Offices.  Back  of  this  building,  off  St.  Paul 
street,  north,  is  the  site  of 

The  Original  Haisonneuve  House. 
On  this  historic  spot  now  stand  the  immense 
warehouses  of  the  hardware  firm  of  Frothing- 
ham  and  Workman.      Proceeding  eastward  a 
number  of  old,  and  some  very  fine  new  ware- 
houses may  be  noted,  until  we  come  to 

Jacques  Cartier  Square. 

This  square  was  formerly  known 
as  Nelson    Place,    and   on    which 
stands  a  round    pillar  monument, 
with  a   statue  on   the  top,  of  the 
great   sea  fighter.      It  is   remarked   that  he 
stands  with  his  back  to  the  water,  an  element 
toward  which  he  in  life  ever  faced.    The  four 
tablets  on  the  pedestal  are  well   worthy  of 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


167 


'  v^:-^ 


JACQUES  CARTIER  SQUARE  OX  MARKET  MORNING. 


MARKET  BOATS,   B0N8EC0URS   MARKET. 


I    ! 


■  \ 


1G8  The  IVaiidcring  Yankee. 

inspection.  The  monument  faces  Notre  Dame 
street.  Following  on  the  river  front  we  pass 
the  huge 

Bonsecours  Market  Building. 
The  western  part  was  formerly  occupied  by 
the  municipal  offices,  the  eastern  end,  second 


BONSECOURS  CHURCH. 

floor,  was  used  for  balls  and  po^blic  concerts 
and  also  for  a  while  as  a  public  drill  hall,  but 
ig  now  used  as  a  market  for  produce.      Just 
east  of  the  market,  stands  the  ancient 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


169 


Bonsecoors  Church 
Which  was  begun  in  1658,  finished  in  1675 
burned  in  1754,  rebuilt  1771  to  '73-remodelled 
out  of  sight  in  1894  and  '95-untiI  none  of  the 
old  IS  to  be  seen— even  the  original  stones  have 
been  plastered  over.    The  first  street  east  is 

Fiiponne 
one  block  long,  leading  up  to  St.  Paul  street. 
Here  is  seen  the  old 

Friponne  House 
used  by  Intendant  Bigot.      The  name  means 

Cheating  House,"  and  was  given  it  from  the 
fact  that  Bigot  and  his  followers  were  the 
most  notorious  band  of  cheats  who  ever  came 
from  old  France.  Sam  says,  « 'Tis  a  shame  he 
died  so  soon,  for  what  a  Boodler  he  would  have 
made  to  be  sure,  and  no  wan  would  have  said 
a  word  agin  him,  as  in  this  age  he'd  have  been 
respictable." 

Just  beyond  we  come  to  the  end  of  the  great 
river  dyke,  and  also  at  this  point  ends  (^mmis- 
sioner  street.    Here  we  see  the  yards  of  the 

Canadian  Pacific 
with  its  two  immense  grain  elevators,  behind 
which  stood  the  old  military  barracks,  with  its 
large,  quaint  p  «way.  This  barracks  was 
originally  a  nnn  y.  Between  this  and  Craig 
street  was  Dalh.  isie  Square,  now  occupied 
and  known  as 

Place  Viger  Station 
and  hotel— the  ground  having  been  rdiiover! 
to  a  depth  of  twenty  feet,  out  to  the  river. 
This  excavation    having    cut    through  Notre 


170 


The  IVandering  Yankee. 


\  '. 


m' 


!i.r 


Dame  street,  it  is  now  crossed  by  a  loug  ii'on 
bridge. 

Going  up  a  short  ramp,  from  Commissioner 
to  St.  Paul  street,  we  turn  west  into  the  latter, 
where  many  very  ancient  houses  are  to  be  seen. 
To  the  right  through  occasional  archways  from 
Nos.  45  to  59,  are  to  be  seen  parts  of  the  origi- 
nal city  wall.  The  only  remaining  bastion  in 
anything  lilce  perfect  shape  is  found  in  the 
rear  of  Nos.  53-55,  and  from  here  to  Bonsecours 
street  occasional  pieces  of  the  wall  are  to  be 
seen,  mostly  built  upon.* 

At  the  east  corner  of  St.  Paul  and  Bonse- 
cours streets,  we  flpd  a  very  odd-looking  old 
house,  built  in  the  days  when  the  top  floor  was 
used  as  a  storage,  with  the  proprietor's  living 
on  the  lower  floors— or  flats— as  the  floors  are 
called  here.  This  house  has  a  tablet  on  its 
west  wall,  on  which  is:  "  Pierre  du  Calvet,  1775- 
1791.  Goverenment  Representatif."  Showing 
that  it  was  once  an  important  house. 

On  this  same  street  (Bonsecours),  on  the  left 
hand  side,  before  reaching  Notre  Dame,  is 
another  tablet,  which  tells  that  the  present 
Bonsecours  Hotel  was  once  the  residence  of 
six  generations  of  the  Papineau  family. 
When  I  asked  if  the  great  Joseph  Papineau 
was  of  this  family,  the  proprietor,  like  too 
many  of   those    of  whom  you  iniiuire,  simply 


•Note.— The  only  piece  of  the  old  wall  re- 
maining, of  the  westerly  line,  is  to  be  found 
in  the  rear  of  Walker's  hardware  store,  on  St. 
James  str  et,  dividing  his  yard  from  that  of 
the  well-knuwa  book  store  of  Grafton  &  Son, 
from  whose  office  it  can  be  seen. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  \  71 

slirugs    his    shoulders,  throws    up   his  hands 
and  says  :  "  Dunno,  I  wasn't  here." 

Directly  at  the  foot  of  Bonsecours  street  is 
seen  Bonsecours  Church,  which  runs  through 
to  Commissioner.    Continuing  along  St.  Paul  a 
few  stores,  we  pass  the  site  of  the  old  Trinity 
Church,  used  by  the  Imperial  troops  while  in 
Montreal,  as  a  place  of  worship  •      The  only 
thing  of  particular  note  between  this  site  and 
Jacques  Cartier  Square  is  the  old  Rasco  llr.tel 
once  a  prominent  hostelry.     It  is  now  occupied 
us  stores  and  cheap  boarding-h(,uses. 

We  now  cross  Jac^jues  Cartier  Square  to 

St.  Amable  Street, 
a  typical  sireet  of  the  early  days,  as  the  dingy 
old  iron  shuttered  buildings  and  the  cobble- 
stone payement  will  testify.  We  go  on  this 
street  to  St.  Vincent,  where  a  large  number  of 
very  old  houses  are  to  be  seen.  I  noticed  here 
m  about  two  blocks,  no  less  than  seven  water 
catchers,  just  at  the  curb  line.  «  Why,"  asked 
1  of  Sam,     did  they  put  so  many  '  catchers'  on 

sa  short  a  street,  so  steep  that  the  water  would 

not  take  the  time  to  run  into  them?"      Sam 
ooked  at  me,  and  seemed  to  feel  real  sorry  as 

he  said,  "  I'm  afraid,  Rube,  ye  are  no  pily. 

tishun-why,    man,    the   contractor    who    put 

I^!"u°/''*  ^^  ^P''^^^'"      I  c«»'dn't  see  what 
that  had  to  do  with  it;  but  I  didn't  say  any- 
thing, and  we  drove  over  to  Vaudreuil  street 
by  a  narrow  lane  known  as  St.  Therese 
Turning  towards  St.  Paul,  we  came  upon  a 

•Note.— The  new  or  present  Trinity  is  on 
the  corner  of  St.  Denis  street  and  VigerSquare. 


172 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


\kM 


i 


long,  dingy  block  of  stone  buildings,  to  the 
right,  the  centre  one  of  which  (No.  8)  is  the 
store  house  where  John  Jacob  Astor  laid  the 
foundation  of  his  vast  millions. 

We  reach  St.  Paul,  turn  to  the  right  and  go 
to  St.  Jean  Baptiste,  by  which  we  reached 
Notre  Dame  street.  On  the  left  hand  side 
going  up  is  a  long  block  of  stone  buildings  be- 
longing to  the  Nuns.    On  the  right  is  seen  the 


VlClt)KLV    SQL'AUE. 

„Id  Lacroix  house,  at  Nos.  23  to  27,  built  in 
KiHO,  notable  for  its  immense  lire-places,  and 
ornamented  mantle-pieces,  also  for  the  strange- 
ly constructed  archway  leading  into  the  court- 
yard. 

Passing  up  St.  Jean  Baptiste  to  the  comer 
of  Notre  Dame  and  St.  Lambert  streets,  we  see 
on  a  tablet  :  "  Here  stood  the  house  of  Cadi- 
lac,  the  Founder  of  Detroit." 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  J7;j 

Churrh    w.  *l^  **'^  ^^^""^  «'t^  «t««d  Christ 
Church    which  was  burned  down  many  years 

we  enter  a  gateway.    On  the  right  hand  side 

name's  :Tv".  ''^  ''''  «^  *^^  ^'^P^''  -'  ^^"tt 
I)ame  des  Victoires,  which  was  erected  to  cele- 

XVn!^    >    I     destruction     of     Sir     Hovenden 
VValker's  fleet,  in  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  o 
Jts  way  to  attack  Quebec,  in  1711.      There  i" 
seen  in  the  enclosure  a  church  which  is  con"- 

Of  as  on  St.  Jean  Baptiste  street.    We  rr^turn  to 

Dame  rhllif  "^^*'  ''PP^^^*"  "^^  ^''^''^  ^^^'•e 
uame  Church,  is  seen  Place  d'Armea.      This 

square  IS  of  particular  historic  interest,  as  here 
was  enacted  much  worthy  of  lengthy  'reading 

I  tXd'r  Tl'''  ^"""  French  garrison  wa's 
attacked  by  the  Iroquois,  whom  they  repulsed 
the,r  chief  being  killed  in  a  hand-tolnnd  ight 

stands  the  monument  and  statue  of  this  noted 
iiidn. 

The   original   parish   church   stood   at   this  ' 
eorneMn   front   of   where    the   present  great 

beTen'o^T^  "''"  ^""^^°^  °^  *^^  ^''>"^*^^^  '^^ 
Catherine  street,  across  the  avenue  from  Mor- 

The  architecture  of  Christ  Church  now  a 
eathedran  is  said  to  be  the  finest  s J^'cime:  o? 
the   Gothic   m   America.      Just   eaVt   of   tbn 

bertLlT  '''  ''''r  ^^^""«  entrance  is  : 
PuWoJd     "'^"°°''^*  ^^  *^^  "^^n^ory  of  Bishop 


174 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


i  • 
■i  ' 


-  -    ^ 


church  now  stands.    It  stood  in  the  street.* 
Proceeding  down  St.  Sulpice,  we  pass  tlie  site 
of  the  first  Methodist  Church,  in  the  rear  of 
Notre  Dame  Church  (No.  32  St.  Sulpice).      On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street  may  be  seen  a  / 
large  number    of    stone  buildings,    occupying 
the    site    of    the    Hotel    Dieu,    removed    to 
Fletcher's  Field.      These  stores  were  occupied 
for  a  time  by  the  Imperial  troops  as  a  barracks. 
Thence  to  St.  Paul,  and  west  to  St.  Francois 
Xavier  street.      This   is    the  Wall   Street   of 
Montreal,    occupied    by    stock    brokers— tele- 
graph and     insurance     offices,     etc.       At  the 
corner  of  this  street  and  Notre  Dame  we  find 
the  immense  block  of  buildings  known  as  the 
S«;minary  of  St.  Sulpice,  immediately  joining 
the  great  Parish  church   of   Notre   Dame,  so 
often    mentioned.      A   large   portion   of   the 
ancient  and  original  buildings,  with  the  old 
clock  and  its  curious  chime  of  bells,  are  of  inter- 
est.     A  part  of  the  ancient  walls  and  gateway 
still  exist,  and  a  couple  of  loop-holes  in  the  old 
wall  may  be  seen.     In  the  rear  of  this  pile  of 
buildings  is  a  large  and  magnificent  garden, 
which  can    be    seen    from  the    tower  of    the 
church.    Going  west  on  Notre  Dame  towards 
McOill  we  look  down  St.  John,  and  see  the  new 
Board  of  Trade  building,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction, the  former,  on  the  same  site,  having 
been  destroyed  by  fire,  with  many  other  places 
of  business,   in   1901.      The   building   now   In 
course  of  erection  will  be  thoroughly  fireproof. 
At  the  corner  of  St.  Peter  street,  just  oppo 


•jfote. — HtH'  elsewhere  the  details  of  IMnce 
de  Amies. 


yi^mm 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


175 

the'  \o^T'T  ^T'*'"'"*  «**^^^'  «*«»dH 
of  the  iZ  ^P'^^      ^^     ™«»>     notables 

ramet,  La  Maison  Fourretier,  le  Generil 
Montgomerj  et  ses  offlciers  y  loJerent  dnrJnt 
rhivep  de  1775  "  winV.i,  «„        '"^'^^renr  durant 

i.  a  OrL  ,7      """"■•-Nelson  L.  Bonaoa,..    H.. 

ni  »ere  killed  d„r,„g  ,jp  Southern  r<.h,.|. 

P,„.,^  '-1,^-tpibntion  from  a  ,i„Kl<.  ,S  ' 

Further  along,  at  the  corner  of  St    Helen 

«»reet,  wo.  the  site  of    the  Becollet.  01,.!!^^ 

a»d  monastery.      The  front  or  7ac«de  of  t  ,t 

untiT  iWf  ,^   ^f  ™,"  '"■""'•     "  Hi-"'  -'nod, 

?^  rt",""p" """  •^"«"-- '-  ntrt 

T,7'ai    ..     ^"•"'•^''•■■•ian.  from  1791  ,„  1700.. 
Tl,^  Shedden   For„a„li„„  Co„,p„„,  '^owt. 

One  8hort  blo.k  down  St.  Helen  to  Reeollol. 

*aui8,  ig  now  on  r>orrI.P«f«p  „nH  '^'^   w     • 
of  Ga.lt  Brn  L     *T^  "'*''"**•''  **''  ^^'^  building 

--'re;:7h^-:r"'^:,:'':5::."f 


!  ! 


176 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


I- 


t  \ 


^B 


fr 

I 


« 


: 


First  BaptiKt  Chapel  of  Montreal,  1831,  Rev. 
John  Gilmour,   Pastor.       Abandoned,   1860." 
This  Church  is  now  on  St.  Catherine,  corner  of 
City  Councillors  street.    On  this  same  building 
a  brass  tablet  reads  : 

"  This  c(»iumemorates  the  organization  of 
the  site  of  the  first  Young  .Men's  ChriMtlan 
Association  on  tiie  Aineri<an  Continent,  Nov. 
25,  1851.  Erected  o»  the  occasion  of  the 
Jubilee  Celebration,  June  8,  1901."  This  will 
be  of  interest  to  the  Association,  whose  build- 
ings now  are  numbered  by  the  thousand,  all 
over  the  contin«'nt. 

We  go  back  to  Notre  Dame,  and  within 
twenty  five  f<'et  of  where  we  turn  west  toward 
McCiill  street,  we  pass  where  was  once 

Tbc  Becollet  Ckite. 
The  old  wall  immediately  in  the  rear  of  1821 
and  182:?  Notre  I>ame  litreet,  which,  by  the 
way,  is  the  only  bit  remaining  of  the  west  line, 
and  mentioned  at  another  place,  shows  that  it 
would  have  crossed  at  this  point.  The  second 
wall  and  gate  was  about  at  McGill,  a« 
elaimed  by  other  writers.  Through  this 
gate  General    Amherst    passed,'   from  which 


•Note.  -"  Here  stood  the  old  Recollets  Gate, 
through  which  General  Amherst  passed  on 
September  8th,  1700,  when  he  took  posses- 
si(m.  It  was  also  through  this  gate  that  Gen- 
eral Hull,  (ui  September  20th,  1812,  with  a  few 
officers  and  men  entered."  That  is  what  is 
seen  on  a  tablet  at  this  point.  I  neve.-  knew 
before  why  Hull  "quit  "  without  a  fight,  but  I 
see  now.  He  wanted  i»»  come  to  Montreal.  ! 
don't  blame  uim  ! 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


17) 


we    tarn    east    again    into    great    St.  Jamea 
street,  one  of  the  most  prominent  streets  of 
Montreal— many  banks  and  insurance  offices 
postoffice,  etc.    At  ?^o.  L'60,  just  to  the  right' 
after  turning  into  this  street,  is  the 

United  States  Consul's  Office, 

and  but  a  short  distance  down  is  a  street  nam- 
''d  for  a  man  who  certainly  deserved  a  wide  and 
long  avenue,  instead  of  an  alley  a  rod  wide,  and 
a  very  short  block  long.     It  ntakes  one  feel  like 
sfolding,    to    see    some    magniflcent    avenue 
named  for  a  character  whose  deeds  are,  to  sav 
no  more,  mythical,  while  a  man  who  saved  the 
embryo  of  a  nation  is  shunl^'d  off  upon  an  alley 
way  in  the  very  city  for  which  he  gave  up  his 
life.    This  is,  to  say  the  least,  a  shame.      The 
Colonel  had  an  extra  word  in  front  of  that 
"  Hhame,"  when  he  was  speaking  of  that  alley 
I  told  him  at  the  time  "  them's  my  sentiments." 
The  (Colonel  does  most  of  my  emphatic  word- 
ing.    He  seems  to  enjoy  it,  and  it  saves  me  the 
wear   and    tear   on    conscience.      But   then    I 
haven't  told  you  th*-  name  of  the  street.     I'm 
going  to  do  my  j>art  and  give  it  a  heading  all 
to  Itself,  in  homage  to  that  brave  nwirtyr, 

l>olIard. 

Thanks  to  the  Numismatic  and  .Antiquarian 
Society,  a  tablet  tells  the  dee.ls  of  thin  grand 
youth.  It  is  on  the  building  junt  on  the  west 
sidt*  of  the  alley.     It  reads: 

'' Dollard  des  Ormeaux.  who,  with  1(]  colo- 
nists, 4  Algouquins  and  1  Huron,  sacritlred 
their  lireg  at  the  foot  «f  the  I^jsg  Sault  of  {he 
Ottawa,  May,  1G60,   and   saved    the   Colony." 


178 


The  Wandering  Yankee, 


I    f 


I 


I    i 


-And  an  alley  is  named  for  him'.-I  ™" «*«[«? 
or  I  won't  need  the  Colonel's  help  on  emphatic 

""  On\"l^'  left  hand  side  of  St.  James,  across  the 
W8V  from  Victoria  Square,  stood  the  American 


I'LACK   d'AKMES   square. 

IMoHbvterian  Churvh,  now  removed  to  Dorches- 
Ur  and  Drummond  streets. 

Victoria  Square, 
with  itH  line  monument  of  the  Quei^n,  for  whom 
it  was  nanu'd.  and  its  pretty  walks,  are  worthj 
of  more  than  ;i  pussinp  note. 

TW  Temple  buildluK.  at  No.  185,  stands  on 
the  site  of  the  third  Methodist  Thurd.,  the 
tond  stand.n,  where  how  is  St.  l^wrence 
Hall.-  a  hotel,-^  opposite  whuh,  "' ^o-s  St 
Francois  Xavier  Street,  is  the  post- 
office.       Don!      fail     to     walk     up     a 


«M 


r*r 


The  Wandering  Yankee:  179 

steps,  into  tho  portico  of  this  building  and 
see  those  allegorical  tablets  on  the  arches  above 
by  the  celebrated  English  sculptor,  Flaxmau.' 
Ihey  werc  formerly  on  the  old  bank  of  Mont- 
real, which  stood  on  this  ground.  These  beau- 
tiful tablets  were  wantonly  and  most  ignor- 
antly  painted  over  by  some  one  who  would 
have  painted  the  tombstone  of  his  grandma, 
thinking  to  add  beauty  to  the  stone.      They 


BANK    OF   MONTItEAL, 

irpresent  Agriculture,  Navigation,  Commerce 
and  .Manufiiclure.       lU-fore  i-ea.hing  8t.  Law- 
'•«•»•«•.'  Hall,  ;ind  on  the  same  side  of  the  sfrcct 
18  I  he  fine  «tone  edihcc  of  the  Mouireal  Star' 
Hugh  Graham  not  only  knows  how  to  sucess- 
fully  <ondu.J  a  great  u.-WM{>aper,  but  he  knows 
ar.-hif..cfnre  as  well,  a«  can  l.e  stHM.  l»v  both 
the  Star  building  and  his  magniJlccut  residence 
on  Sherbrooko  .^tr»>et,  especially  so  the  latt.T, 
which  ig  one  of  ih,'  most  cori.ct  iu  style  in 


W   i        1 


■       i 


180  ^^^  Wandering  Yankee. 

the  only  English  morning  journal  ^^  t^^/^^' 

IToteMrrnL  adamou  bow  bui.diB.  o. 

'*srrorM:;n7ran««,e.eco„a«not 

the  flrst,  groatc.  bank  -a  the  Contment.      It 


FIItST   PKNNY. 

i8  by  far  the  largest  banking  ^^f^^'^f;    JJ^; 
Lin  portion,  on  St.  James  street   m  120  fet 
front,'the    new   building  ^---f^     ^^^^ 
rear   is   180   feet,   fronting    on  Craig   street. 
TWs  new  portion  is  beinp  erected  by  the  grea 
American^  tlrm    of    Nor..oss    "-the-    .ukI 
rnninanv    of  Worcester.  Mass.      Through  tiu 
ISrW  M.,K.  W   McLacUaa   .  g.ve  ... 
the  first  penny  issued  by  this  bank,     ii 
Z  Zx  ponny  »tn,cR  for  ^'l^^^^,^ 
To  the  light  we  sec  again  Place  ITArmes, 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


181 


around  which  are  clustered  so  many  of  Mont- 
real's great  oflke  buildings.  Bevond  the  square 
we  pass  the  tine  buildings  of  the  French  news- 
papers, Le  Journal,  La  Patrie,  and  lastly,  the 
beautiful  home  of  La  Tresse.  This  brings  us 
to  the  eastern  end  of  St.  James  street,  at  the 

Court  House, 
near  which  is  seen  old  St.  Gabriel,  the  first 
Protestant  church    in    Montreal.      The    new 
church  is  on  St.  Catherine,  opposite  to  where 
City  Councillor  begins. 

There  are  many  other  buildings  of  note  on 
St.  James,  such  as  the  Merchants  Bank,  the 
Mechanics'    Institute,    with    its    fine    library, 
worthy  a  visit.      There,  too,  on  the  right  hand 
side,  almost  opposite  to  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  is 
the  ancient  building  of  the  Bank  of  British 
North  America,  which  has  stood  for  more  than 
a  half-century,  as  solid  in  construction  as  the 
institution  itself.      Just  beyond,  on  the  nearer 
corner  of  St.  Francois  Xavier  street,  is  where 
was  located  the  former  post-office,  and,  one 
block   further  on,  is  now  beginning  a  great 
office  building,  the  home  of  the  Liverpool,  Lon- 
don and  Globe  Insurance  Company. 

Digress  here  just  a  few  minutes.  Go  back  to 
i<t.  Peter  and  down  one  block  to  Craig  sttvH 
and  take  in 

A  Little  Bit  of  Craig 
Start  from  the  "  Witness"  newspaper  office, 
(forner  of  St.  Peter  and  Craig),  and  drive 
east.  As  we  pass  the  "Herald,"  one  of 
Montreal's  leading  papers,  whose  large 
building  fares  St.  Fran<;oi.s  Xavier  stn-et, 
the    Colonel     asks  :  "  Rube,     did     you      sett 


r 


If  I 


182  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

what  the  'Sieve'  said  about  you  while 
you  wei-e  down  home?"  "Oh,  yes,  Oolonel  I  saw 
it,  and  remarlced  at  the  tiiae  that  it  came 
within  an  uee  of  being  real  humorous,  which 
reminds  me  that  the  '  Funny  Man  of  the 
Montreal  papers  has  a  higher  not\«;  «' ^»"\«; 
than  many  of  our  own  writers.  ^Whether  he 
uses  seizors  or  his  own  grey  matter,  the  pro- 
duct is  rarely  silly,  but  clean  cut,  and  to  1  e 
point.      Vide    'The    Passing   Hour'  or     Fhe 

We  see  again  the  "Gazette"  block   vo    the 
ri^ht  across  from  the  "  Herald,"  and  by  its 
side  the  great  white  addition  of  the  Montreal 
Bank   under  construction.      At  the  corner  of 
^rS;  and    Elizabeth,  is    the  Eglise  Evangd- 
lique  Church.  Kcv.  l.  Massicotte,  l»a;,!;>r-   J" 
the  right  are  the  (Murt  House  and  (  ity  Hall 
with  Champ  de  Mars  parade  ground,  in  front 
or  rather  in  rear  of  them  as  they  face,  as  be- 
hove stated,  on  Notre-Dame  street     Opposite 
on  the  left  hand  side  is  a  great  drill  hal  ,  cov-^ 
^Hng,    an   entir.    block.-     It's    called   '  Sa  e 
d'Exercii-e"—"  Salle  "  meaning  hall.      At  the 
corner  of  St.  I>enis  and  Craig  streets,  we  sc.« 
a  statue  with  the  simple  word  : 

Ghenier. 

I  cannot  but  stop  a  sentence  to  tell  you  of 

Phillips'  driver  who.  when  they  came  to  th  s 

ta     estopped,  and  said  :  "  This  is  Chineei  s 

Htatue^-Chineer  was  a  doctor  and  was  kilt  m 

the  last  Riseriction."  T^hnUns 

"  Yoo  mean  Insurrection,"  said  Phillips. 


•Note.— This  will  hold  15,00(»  iK-ople. 


ITF 


^k^S'^^S 


-■j*: 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


18.*} 

runTer  r^~^'  '''''  ^  ^""^  ^"•^*«'-  »>»*  «  Poo^ 

i**-* .  14,  1837,  at  St.  Eustache.  Ifg  too  lonir 
u  story  or  I'd  tell  you  about,  how,  L>00  orS 
of  the  insurgents  of  the  1837-38  Papineau  Re 

venrand't''™'^'  '"""^^'^^  ''  ^'-ron' 
o    fn?     parsonage  against  the  troops,  sent 

'aught  Are  many  of  them  lost  their  lives,  in 

iier^Ye/r^/'  ?^  ^™^"^'  *"^"»  I>^-  ^J>^- 
RlKir       '      ^  *°*'  '^""^  •'^  story-read  of  that 
Rebellion  yourself,  but  don't  got  the  inn  res 
sjon  that  because  I  begin  it  with  a  ea  i ta    R 
that  It  was  worthy  of  it     No    it  «.««!• 
significant  that-well  it  wal^t  of  as   mu" 

o?  Can  H  a  if  "•"  ^'^^'^^  P«''t'^«>  h'^tory 
of  Canada       it  was  not  till  then  that  Ens 

land  found  that  Canada  had  just  cause  of 
complaint  against  the  politiciLs  wh  had 
been  running  affairs  unju«rly  toward    a    c^ 

saw  tC"  7  ''  ''''  ^^'^P'^'-  ^^'l-»  -« e  she 
saw  the  situar.on,  matters  were  righted.    Fni 

beg,„nmg  to  find  that  the  Old  Mo'ther  Cou^ 

t  y  18  pretty  good  to  the  children,  and  they 

:nd';:Htf  :-'"*  '  ""^"*  «^"^'  *«'^^"«  -«^"- 
Passing  around  fmm  St.  James,  at  the  west 

selves  on  2votre  Dame  stmet,  where  we  see  the 

ChaM^T^R  "'  ""'''  "^*"  '^  *'-  >^f^  ^-^  ti- 
i^liateau  de  Ramezay  to  the    right.      To    the 


184  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

north  end,  in  the  rear  of  the  Court  House,  is 
the 

Cliamp  de  Mats. 

This  open  square,  bounded  on  the  west  by 
St.  Gabriel  street;  north  by  Craig,  and  east  by 
Gosford  street,  is  used  as  a  military  parade 
ground.  Originally  the  ground  was  low  and 
in  part  swampy;  but  earth  was  carted  from  the 


u 


^i 


COUUT   HOUSE. 

old  Citadel  Hill,  afterwards  called  Dalhousie 
Square,  and  raised  to  its  present  condition. 
This  ground  has  been  the  site  of  many  interest- 
ing events.  ,  ^  ,  ^„ 
From  the  Citv  Hall  we  pjt««ed  pastna'^  on 
Notre  Dame.  To  tl.p  left  wo  iK-e  Notre  I>ame 
Hospital,  which  wmm  forme»iy  the  I>on.  gana 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


la:, 

«f*..e»a„e4oeXd:;;:rLrr;;^: 


CITY  HALL. 

(lostroypd  fho  whole  of  Sf    t..,. 

To  the  iMff    f..  •  I-awrenco  siiburh. 

Place  VIger. 

t'^Ht  ,,ark-|,ke  squalen  i„  the  eltv 
<  onfiniiiDff  on  to  '  * 


Hi 

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MtCROCOTY   RESOIUVION   TCST  CHART 

(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2) 


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1653  Cost   Mam  Street 

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^g        (716)   482  -  0300  -  Phone 


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18G 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Papineau  Square, 

ini'iied  north  to  ^t.  *  aiutnui- 

we    ound  nothing  of  note  until  we  reached  b  • 

DenYs    hi  which  vieinity,-St.  DeniB  and  bt. 

cXri  e,  ^e  found  many  points  of  interest 

"--f  Which  ^^efoun^vn^e^^ 

p,oper  places.     Here  are  the  l.  ^^^ 

buildings,  the  ^^t^^^^'^/^.^j^e^^^^  i,  said  to 
St.  James  churches  (K;C.),  tl^  l^tte 

Uave  the  talles  ^Pl-^^^^^^^f^^^om  here  we  go 
should  not  miss  «"\7^^"^';,^,,i„g  on  the  way 
up  to  St.  Lawrence  Main,  passing,  uu 

the  i  „         . 

Theatre   Francals. 

Turning  up  St.  Lawrence  Main  (which  street 

--  '"7  "™rrtt  To  oTtlrll,  thence  to 
!;-:;r.2,  «;  A.n^,.t  to  B.,erb..ooUe.  Here 
wt'  had  a  good  view  of 

Lafontalne  Park, 

formerly  known  »»  ^-^«-''''^,  theMmj". 
portal  da.v»  thU  farm  ""«»«:'' ;;i;;",  i„  ti,o»e 
,ronnd  for  the  tr-l-     J""  J^'X     ,„rm. 

r^hrirrer-r-r^uatine 


The  IVaudcring  Vankrc. 


187 
wide  driveway  surrounding  it       At  flm  ,      ., 

.^Situated  on  the  Sherbroikc.«i„e„,t„eP„,k 
mj  .     .  I'olytechnic  Schools. 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum 
"I  "18  sriect  we  come  to 

St.  Louis  Park, 

HK,";;!.';^:',";!:,"'  ";;■  '■■"""■"' "-"'  -  "- 

in     ,i»'loe  I    V     .'  '",""*■  ""'"■•  """  "■'WW..-,.,. 

.ood':.i:;'t'-^„Jr';;:;]'„;';™';f-'- ;■■'■*" 

to  .1,0  ie/t  the  be»„,if„,  ''  ""'"'  '"  "'■™ 

Club  St.  Denis, 
fmuMMlv  the   n.siden.v  of   Fortier,   the  unUu] 
n,n.  n.a„„fawurer.       (»„   the  Ho„fh   .h^  of 


;  I 


■    i 


R» 


The  Wandcriug  Yankee. 

SUerbrooke,  opposite  the    club    house,    is  the 
magnificent  pile  of  buildings  of  the 
Mount  St.  Louis  College. 
This  1«  a  boys'  school.      Tl'e  pu,«.s  weaj  a 
n.i.Ua.j-  uniform  and  »'>;  «"^*[,f  ^'^e  a  flue 
,„..tics  of  the  «c"l  «»'f  «•  ^'Zlt  co„»,n«.- 
band  and  on  parade  they  a,e  m       ^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

ous  for  their  martial  bearing, 
^xde  of  Sherbrooke  street  we  come  to  the 
Monastery  de  Bon  Pasteur, 

for  boys  and  girls.  Main  is  the 

On  the  corner  of  bt.  i^awr«u 
fine  old    residence,    wijh    g-unds     of     lolrn 

Molson,  Esq.,  «PP«53*^,  JL  rhurch.  Fur- 
SUerbrooke  Street  Method  (-  --  .^  ^^^ 
ther     along     on     the     »;«  ^U  ^^^^ 

former      residence     of      Mr.      >>  it     ;« 

u  in     the    celebrated    photographer.      I   J 
mail,     iiic  Afnriraret  s        Home. 

„ow  occupied  as  f '  .^^'^XiV  i«  the  ««« 
Then,  on  the  corner  of  fV^  ^f '^  ^^  ^^^  55,5  is 
residence  of  the  B^-^^fJ^-^^^.i^.o^^'Hrnith,  said 
the  residence  of  ^™^ ^'  '  .^^j^.f  magistrates 
to  have  been  one  of  the  b^«t  <h  a        U     ^^^^^^ 

Montreal  has  ever  had.      f  ;»•"^J!^f^,      This 
house,  now  occupied  by  Mr.  A^  hkaife^ 
is  a  very  old  house,  and  one  of  the  »>«s^  '^l* 
^^eiis  o7  the  early  suburban  --denc.s  of  the 
::;ty.    immediately  oppo-te  «t^«f^i    „^^  -^^ 

dence  of  Rouer  Ro^' ^^^;^^i^  ?„,,  and  I'ark 
the  corner,  ^^^^''^  Ble«r>  s  m  t  ^^^^^^ 

Avenue  begins,  at  ^'«^^«^^^^,,  residence  of 

,„,,U  "^"d^:"^'';^;,ruve  T^^eatrical  mauager. 
J.  B.  Sparrow,  that    live  E„giigi».speak- 

who  has  charge  of  ^^^'f  'l^^^'Z  residence 
iug  theatres  in  town.    No.  71^  is 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


189 

of  the  vv(.||-kn„un  Alderman,  J.  n    rio-irilnu. 
He  next  eonie  to  the  «  'eanluie. 

The  Royal   Victoria  College  for  Women 
mentioned    elsewlieie        T...=i^    i 

McGill  University 

al«o  n.entioned  at  length  in  another  „art  of 

this  hook.     .See  eollejres.  '^i    I'ait  of 

'IiKst  o])po.site  to  MeCJill  at  \o  S'^n  f«n       i 

H    •;.':,    ;;  ;  ,•.•.'•  ''■"""'■  "'  ""■  conferva 
•ft,.,   I  ,,„„e  ,0  Montreal  there  „a»  L'ive ,  :^ 

;;;|-.;;«™»j,...,t.en,„„    ,,.„„,,:-,';;;-•: 

-uoucieai  nad  a  citizen  worthv  at 

xpiesamn,  I  could  have  exoelled  even  the  mo.t 
llorid  »,».eeh  of  that  dinner     It  f.  7rl„!    , 
"".0  to  know  «„eh  a  man  in  1  dtVwl  ere'a 
»'™n„er  ean  a„,„.e,.iate  a  friend.  •" 

Senator     •    '""""■"•'^'  "'  """•  ■'"""■»  <>'"H 

..."■eir^i^r"- "'•'■"• ''-«■■■> ••"' 

At  No.  S7;{  r^'Hides  Je»Re  Joseph,  the  IJelLruin 
P»..oe,  t-e  «sidenL':rtI:  tn^i^T^ 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 

mond.  This  is  on  the  easterly  comer  of 
Setcalfe  street.  On  the  opposite  comer  js 
the  residence  of  Hon.  Sir  Wn.     I.  Kingston, 

M.D,» 
The  site  of  the  old 

Indian  Village  at  Hochelaga, 

lies  along  Sherbrooke  street  at  t^iBV^^^  « 
is  supposed  to  have  run  from  University  to 
Mansfield  streets,  and  as  « ^r  «outh  as  Burn«ide 
street.  All  through  this  locality  have  been 
?o^nd  many  Indian  relics,  now  preserved  in 

^I'sf  be^oTd^Sansfleid,  or  (as  the  continue 
tion  of  t?i:  street  is  called)  McTa>.sli,  wluc^ 
runs  toward  the  mountain,  past  the  OoUege 
gZnds,  we  find  at  Ko.  ^7  tbe  residence  of 

Robert  Craik,  physician  ^^^d/^^^^^f' ^^^^  '^o 
of  the  Medical  Faculty  of  McGill,  and  two 
doors  west  at  No.  889.  lives  Wm.  Peterson, 
C Tg  ,  LL.D  ,  Principal  of  McGill  University. 
At  893  resides  George  B.  Reeve,  former  gene.^. 
manager  of  the  Grand  Trunk  System  and  at 
No  898  lives  a  man  of  double  size-by  name 
ani  ability-President  of  the  Bell  Telephone 
To  Mr  C  F.  Sise.  He  has  built  up  a  system 
that  is  a  marvel  for  efficiency.       It  includes 

both  local  and  long  distance. 

Misses  Symmers  and     Smith,  young  ladies 

»..hool  fs  at  No.  916.    This  is  one  of  the  most 
^Ictpv'ate  schools  in  Montreal.    Just  opp^ 

«ite,  on  the  corner  of  Stanley  street,  is  to  be 


•Note.-See  mention  of  this  great  physician 
amoyji  the  li.t  of  "  Titled  Montreal. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  191 

seen  the  magnificent  palace  of  Sir  William  Van 
Home.* 

On  the  other  corner,  west,  is  the  Mount  Royal 
Club  or  as  Sam  called  it,  "  The  Miljanares' 
AKK '..  ^^'•f  ^'''y  the  residence   of   Hon.  John 

^  o^i"  •  ^u^""*'  '^^^*'  °^  ^^^  <=^'"b  House,  at 
JVo  951,  18  the  home  of  one  of  the  best  known 
and  most  successful  business  men  in  Canada 


MOUNT  ROYAL  CLUB.* 

the  Hon.  L.  J.  Forget,  In  this  locality  we  find 
the  residences  of  two  very  prominent  news- 
paper men,  that  of  Hugh  Graham,  proprietor  of 

l,\  f ',,f  ^'''  ^^2  Sherbrooke;  and  that  of 
Richard  White,  proprietor  of  the  Gazette,  at 
298  Stanley  street,  just  west  of  Sherbrooke. 
^^^°g  Q°  west  Sam  points. out  the  home  of  Sir 

•Note.— See  «  Titled  Montreal." 


Oldest  Structure  ia 
Montreal. 


J92  The  iVandcring  i'a/iAvc. 

Melbourne  Tait,  Judge  of  the  f-^e^^'^onvt 
at  NO.  1)94,  and  at  995   acro.B  the  stree  ,  IneB 
the  great  mercb;n,t,    Andrew    I^'^^^^^.p 
10(K5     lives    Dr.  F.     W.     Campbell,  L.R-<--l'-' 
I  ondoi     Dean  of  the  Medical  Faculty  of  the 
ITniversitv  of  Bishop's  College. 

Tt  the  head  of  Crescent  street,  stands  one  of 
n;  Vn;:.^>f  the  IWstant  clmrches  m  ^ 
eitv  the    Erskine    Presbyterian,    Ke\.    A.    J. 
Mo;''i  t     pastor.      The    Erskine    is    m    part 
n    de  ek  a  ter    one    of    the    fine  churches  o 
Mnn'-l;^P->ns,   Minn.      lu    "  ^he    Sher^-ooke 
which  stapds    between    Crescent    street    and 
oi;:^i:  Avenue,  resides  the  ^-^^^j^^^ 
Fran.-e,  Chancellier  Eleve.     At  1088  ^«  t^^ '^^^ 
.iPiice  of  one  of  the  great  firm  of  S.  Carsiey  tv 
dene  ^  «y "^  ?^  \^  i,  in  tijis  locality  where 

on-'the'sou^tste  of  Sherbrooke,  near  Mackay 
street   stands  the  ^-reat  block  of  houses  built 
bv  Maloney-of  New  York  "  boodie'   fame, 
"^^t  1065  stands  a  hou.e  with  beautiful  grounds 
the  home  of    Mrs.   A.    M.    R^dPfl^'f^^f^ 
xvenue  lending  up  to  it  from  Sherbrooke  street 
W  bevond   at  1121  is  Mount  View,  the  park- 
S  hcu  le  of  James  Linton,  with  fine  statuary 
s<^  ttered  about  the  grounds.     There  are  many 
ottr  fine  residences  all   along  here,  up  to  the 
h  ge^Indings  and  grounds  of  the  Orand  Semi^ 
„.,rv  and  Montreal  College.     I  say     huge     for 
ti  a  'i n^ie  word  which  will  best  express  these 
.normous    buildings-possibly   unequalled    in 
size  on  the  Continent. 

From  Sherbrooke  we  went  do^^  i  VV  ood 
street,  to  St.  Catherine,  on  the  north-east 
forner  of  which  stands  the  great 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 
Arena. 


i9;j 


bu  It  of  iron  and  brick.  It  is  „sod  in  winter 
foi  slvatinir  and  liockey,  and  in  .sunin.er  as  a 
concert  and  mnsie  luall,  where  is  held  tbo 
annual  combined  concert  of  all  the  Protestant 
schools  of  the  city.  This  Annual  is  under  t  i' 
«ui.ervis.on  of  Professor  Wnnth,  and  is  an  even; 
of  great  importance.     I  have  never  heard  anv- 

>^hat  I  listened  to  at  the  Annual  held  recently 

u  the  Arena.     It  was  grand  and  inspiring.     To 

h«  en  to  the  2,000  voices  made  me  change  ,nv 

Next  north  are 

The  Montreal  Baseball  Grounds 
formerly  the  grounds  of  the  Slunnrock  Lacrosse 
Club  removed  now  to  Mile  End.  Next,  to  th(> 
right,  IS  a  square  called  Western  Puk 
Oomg  east  along  St.  Catherine  we  pass  to  the 
eft  a  very  pretty  church,  the  Douglas  Method^ 
I8t,  at  the  corner  of  Chomedy  street.  Continu- 
ing to  Guy,  and  looking  northward,  we  see  to 
the  right  Proctor's  Theatre,  which  is  becoming 

in  the  city  ^'''^*"''''  ^'"''''  "^^  amusement 

Church  of  St.  James  the  Apostle. 
At  Bishop  street  we  find  the  Church  of  St 

mZ  Recior^""*'^-       '"''"•   ^^^^   ^"^^-^' 
^  "Colonel  "  said  I  as  we  reached  this  church 
this    IS  where  Company  M.  of   the  Vermont 

;Te  tZe  ?r'^''  ''•'^"^  Burlington,  attended 
the  time  they  were  up  here  in  Mav.  Canon 
tilegood,  chaplain  of  the  Victoria  Rifles,  gave 


Canon  Eltegood. 


1 94  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

tho  bovs  a  hearty  welcome,  and  the  choir  sung 

-AmeHca,-'  out  of  compliment  M  the  Company. 

You   know,  I   told  you   ^bout   Captam   E.  H. 

Proutv  and  Lieutenant  F.  G.  Taggart  of  C  om- 
pany  M.  It  made  me  feel  like  ^^  t^^V^'^^;^;/^ 
at  home  to  see  '  the  boys  in  blue.  B>  the 
wav  did  I  ever  tell  you  that  this  is  the  chuid, 
wen.  so  mai     of  England's  noted  men  worship- 


CHURCH   OF   ST.    "AMES  THE  APOSTLE. 

pedwhen  in  Montreal?"  "  ^o  ?"  '  Oh  yes, 
there  were  the  Duke  of  Con  laught  Lord  Wols^ 
ley  General  BuUer,  Governors  Landsdowne 
and  Stanley,  now  Lord  Derby,  and  a  number  of 
others  whom  I  have  forgotten.  Canon  Elle 
good  is  a  great  favorite,  and  no  wonder-he  is 
not  onlv  a  good  minister,  but  a  good  man. 

"  Don't  that  always  follow  r 

«  Well,  we  will  not  argue  that  question,  Co- 


The  IVanderiug  Yankee. 


1!)5 


loiiel,  as  I  want  to  tell  you  of  the  choii-— one  of 
the  really  excellent  ehoii-s  of  the  city.     The  so- 
pranos are  Miss  Marie   llollinshead  and    Mrs. 
Hamilton.  Altos,  Miss  Florence  Wishart,  :Mr8. 
Thornton  and   Mrs.  Scott.     Or'   the   tenors  the 
leaders   are    Henry   Allies   and   J.   C.   IJarlow. 
yes,  this  is  the  Henry  Miles  who  used   to   be 
President   of    the   Board    of    Trade,    tuid,    as 
'  Hermes'  won  the  prize  for  answenng  98  of  100 
questions  on  Canada,  a  number  of  years  ago. 
Oh,  yes,  indeed,  Colonel,  a  Mc  'treal  choir  often 
( arries  the  prominents  of  the  city.  The  positions 
of  first,  second  and  third  bass  are  held  by  Prank 
Ramsay,  A.  Frank  Ibbotson  and  Henry  Upton. 
Of  the  organist,  John    Herbert  Lauer,  !    have 
spoken  elsewhere,  as   I   have  also  of  others  of 
this  choir.      Oh,  yes.  Colonel,  here  is  whei  -a  1 
heard  that  wonderful  v^hoir  boy  I  wa  •  te.  'n*' 
you    about,  Allen    Glover;  he's    only  thirteen 
yea      old,  but,  oh,  how  he  can  sing  !  His  notes 
are  as  clear  as  a  bird's  and  he  can  hold  them 
equal  to  a  trained  singer." 

Canon  Ellegood. 

"  Colonel,  I  will  tell  you  this  evening  about 
Canon  Ellegood.  He  is  one  of  the  kind  a  bio- 
grapher loves  to  find."  That  evening  I  told 
Horatius  how  that  the  Canon's  grandfather 
had  lived  in  Virginia,  at  and  before  he  time  oi 
the  Revolutionary  War,  how  he  had  raised  a 
regiment,  and,  being  loynl  to  the  King,  had 
fought  against  us,  (fought  for  a  principle,  for 
which,  though  it  be  against  my  side,  I  ever 
willingly  accord  a  man  the  right,  and  respect 
him  for  it),  and  when  the  war  was  over  remov- 
ed to  Fredericton,  N.B.,  taking  with  him  all 


19G 


The  IVamUriitii  YunLrc. 


M 


liiH   Hliivt'H  -even   inWiua   to   p'wmch   liis   house 
and  i'iUT.vinj,'  it  on  Hhip  to  his  m'w  lionic. 

The  Canon  was  boni  at  Fr<'d<'rl<'ton.  M.xn'h 
IC.th,  1824.  Canic  to  Montreal  by  way  of  IJoston, 
leae'hed  Stanstead,  VM,  May  LT.Ih,  1S4S.       lie 
was    the    next   day     onlained    a   <leacon    and 
|»reaehed  his  tirst  sermon  in  St.  -lolins.  for  the 
late  (\\non   ltan(n»ft.      lie  came   at    once   to 
.Montreal,  became   curate   of   (Mirist's   Chun-h, 
next  at  St.  Ann's,  in  (Iritlintown,  nt»w  tlieSt. 
Kdward  Chunh,  on  St.  rani's,  corner    of    In 
si.ect(;r  street.      In  IHC/J.  Charles  IMiillips  piye 
the  j?round  and  a  larjje  subscription  for  the  St. 
James  the  Apostle,  and  in  IStJt  he  bejjan  iiis 
work,  and  has  bt'en  in  «'harj,'e  ever  since.   Thirty- 
ciiiht  years  !      This,  alone,  would    warrant   my 
jrivinj?  him  this  lenjjithy  notice,  but  when  1  hour 
all  that  he  has  been  to  his  fellow  men,  1  could 
HO    on  to  the  eml,  talkinj?  of  him.       In    1S.'')4, 
when  the  ship  fever  was  here.  Canon  Ellenood 
was  in  the  midst  of  it,  workinj?  like  a  hero,  a'  .1, 
in  every  call  for  duty,  he   has  ever  responded. 
He  has  seemed  absolutely  devoid  of  fear.     Ah, 

such  men   as   he,  it   is  a   pleasure  to  write  of 

them  ! 

In  181)8,  on  the  anniversary  of  his  tiftieth 
year  in  the  ministry,  his  friends  held  for  him  a 
jubilee,  at  which  ereed  was  forgotten  and  the 
ministers  of  the  city  vied  with  each  other  in 
honorinj?  him  He  was  presented  on  that  oc- 
casion with  a  thousand  dollar  oil  painting, 
from  which  I  have  taken  this  miniature  copy. 

I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  S.  O.  Shorey  for  this 

sketch. 

Between  Drummond  and  Stanley,  at  No.  2434, 
is  the  Y  .W.  C.  A.  Temporary  Home  for  Work- 


The  U'aiidcriiiir  ymikcc. 


injj  (!i.ls    „„d...  tlu;  charge  of  AfisH  A.  M.  K. 

J"ii.       n.H  Jr.,me  IS  most  (U's.Mvin.'    and  is 

<;';K  "MHI.  Ko<Hl.     1  always  fc.l  liko'iK-akin^. 

nu   hfi'  of  tlu'ir  sisicrs  happier 

AMlHM-orm.r  of  Slanloy  is  u  limM-l.urd,,  n.e 
n.uaauH  (^....KivKaHonrl,  Kov.  H,.«h  P,,  u.J 
n.A    pasor,      A    short    distance    south     on 
^tanl,,v.  is  Temple  K,„anu.EI.     Rev.       „L 

;.nsn.,,.nn,OlnonunUmslatel,taMMUhis 
hai-e.     Near  h.v  is  the  Stanley  SIreel  J'reshv 

tmanrhureh.     Kev.  F.  M.  „eie,  is  the  i^S. 
The  Victoria  Skating  Club. 

sonu  of  the  hnest  carnivals  on  the  continent. 
1  io   H„rt..ul(„,al   Society  ..as   hehl   its  ex- 

An.ciuan  ^n^dical  Associati.Mi  hehl  one  of  its 
A  jnnals  .n  this  Uiuk.     ,t  is  a  ve,,v  histo  i  1 

S     n  ,  w.   ^^^'^"•■"''»f>'    to    the   <.orner  of 

'^«.>nh\v    and  St.    (.'atherine    is    Stanley  H-.I! 
whe.;e    Frank    Norman    has  his    danl^^ '    J 

d        "  U 'u'v  ••"•^«^^«-^»'^'  --t  select  1;  the 
;  •  ,  .'^^^  -^-*''  ^ve  see  Professor  J.  p    steoh 
;>n  s  S     oo,  of  Elocution.   The  Professor  lo" 
■;n^^i  tl.c  elocutum  of  the  public  schools  of  the 

At  one  o'dock  we  I -ft  the  Windsor,  junt  north 

o    which  we    turned    east    on    St.  Catherine 

where  we  had  left  otf  at  Peel  street  '  •'"•^"°^' 

Lp  a  half  block  from  St.  Catherine,  on  Peel 

eet   we  saw  the  Hi«h  School,  at  ^hich  vou 

^l;z';;^U,^  --  ^-y  ^-stions 


m 

4 

■  ■ 

1       ' 

198 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


We  came  to  the  old  Wellington  Terrace— to 
the  right,  running  from  Mansfield  to  McGill 
College  avenue.      This  block  was  one  of  the 
first  erected  on  St.  Catherine  west,  and  named 
for  the  great  Wellington,  whose  statue  sur- 
mounts it.     Here  Sam  pointed  out  the  store  of 
G.  Herzberg,  at  2306,  and  told  me  of  what  is 
possible  for  a  man  to  do:  "  That  man  f  arted 
about  a  year  ago  without  a  dollar,  got  a  little 
credit,  hired  a  cutter  from  some  place  down  in 
the  States,  ran  along,  paid  all  his  bills  before 
they  were  due,  until  he  can  now  get  anything 
he  wants.    He  is  over  fun  with  business,  for  he 
is  way    down    reasonable,    and    that  Yankee 
cutter  knows  how  to  cut  "  to  the  King's  taste." 
And  yet  some  say  it's  hard  to  do  business  in 
these  days— not  at  all,  if  one  only  knows  how! 
Looking  up,  the  Colonel  saw  two  statues  of 
Wellington,  one  at  either  end  of  the  block,  and 
said:  "  Sam,  I  see  two  statues,  come,  now,  tell 
us  whv  two?"    Sam  was  silent  for  a  minute, 
then  quickly  replied:  "  Oh,  yes,  I  have  it.    One 
of  thim  represents  Wellington  before,  and  the 
other  after,  the  battle  of  Waterloo.      See,  he 
houlds  in  his  hand  beyand  a  sewerd  which  he 
win    in    the  battle."      Even  the  Colonel  was 
satisfied  with  the  "  two." 

At  2288,  Sam  said,  "  Mr.  Ruben,  here's  a 
farm  that  mav  interest  you.  This  is  Alex. 
Nelson  and  Co.,  the  '  Dunlop '  of  Montreal." 
"  How's  that,  Sam  ?"  "  Why,  don't  ye  see- 
they  have  hats  ?  and  they  air  the  bist  in 
town."  "  Thank  you,  Sam,"  said  the  Colonel. 
"  Rube,  now  you  '  see,  even  the  driver  thinks 
you  need  a  new  one."  But  Sam,  seeming  to 
niiak  he  had  b»  en  too  personal,  turned  it  off  by 
Baying  "  Yes,  and  they  air  wan  of  the  finest  fur 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


199 

furms  in  Montreal.      This  is  only  a  branch  of 
Damns' r^r^^^*"""^  ^--  at  1864  N  tre 

be^ WSts"?"Vht''  "^""^^  -^^-^'  ^"t  the 
feaiiuenis.        There  was  one  thinir  <^hnut 

.rorttTrC""*"  "'"""''  "•-'■•«  ■>-'!" 

at  Which  the  best  companies  are  to  be  seen 

entrauce  to  t",e  '  "*'"■''  "•  '"'"■'  »""  ""' 

Crystal  Palace. 
At' Uiion  A  '"  *'^  ''^"*'"^^^^  ^^l--tion. 
v^onst  Church  Cathedra,  referred    tn    in    ti. 

The  Colonial  House, 
worthy  of  an  extended  notice,  as  it  is  n.w.  ..r 
the  features  of  Montreal.     It  is  n L  ib      fl^ 
finest  department  store  in  Canada'         ',-    I 
««  I  said,  a  whole  bloclc  in  front    it  ,  v  , ,    t 
along  Aylmer  street  side  300  feet        Its 
m^e  covers  many  acres.    Thc^  ou  sid    of  I 
MHld.ng  may  be  seen  from  the  pi  tt 
ntenor  is  perfectly  arranged.      What    s  rJv 
imps    he  most  pleasing  feature  of  a  v^s  t  to  the 
oloni.l  House  is  the  contented  faceVone  se 

a  inVwru^lt'"  'T'''^'  ^"^  ^-'  «•-"'"  o^ 

tlinf  fho,  ,  ^^"'"^'  ""'^  the  result  is 

<»'»t  fhe.v  are  happy  „nd  give  bn.k  n  elu-erful 


200 


The  IVandcring  Yatikcc. 


s(M'vico.  lloro  as  in  many  places  in  Montreal 
one  sees  i)eoi»le  who  have  grown  gr^y  in  the 
serviee  of  the  house.  Don't  miss  seeing  the 
Colonial.    A  visit  will  repay  you. 


ClIUIST   ClirUCII    CATHKKKAl,. 

Diagonally  aeross  at  the  easterly  corner  of 
rhilllps  Siiuare,  stands  a  fine 
Art  Gallery. 
Montreal  has  few  art  gallerys;  but  the  private 
collections  are  possibly  unejpialled  by  cities  of 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


201 

tJje  tine  arts  n-o  «...ii  '-o'onial  House,  as 

"«i-  .11  IS  aie  well  rei)res«»ntori  .if  +i  • 

Ilryinnc,-,  Haramonl     R.„ ,      ,  '""''^'-'l*''    "f 

*i.o  port.;„t  wo"r,^'„t.'rp„,r''  "'"'*"■'• 


COLONIAL  HOl.HE_„fa.„v  M„„„.,N  4  on 


\ 


202 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


The  IVamhnng  Van/ccc. 


203 

Hon.  an/;;fot™;^rs:  '''^:r~''''''  "^ 

J^inerioa,    while   the   name    of   '>  ^fol 


«T.   JAMK.S   METriODIST  CHUKCFI.    (Xew.) 

.yng  h,rd  not  fo  make  tluH  a  '•pL.t..ro  h,  o     • 
'>"^  evor^  viHit  to  Xohuan's  adds  to    i.  I  "j 


-  I 


I  '  'I 

I  «AjU 

I  VnnR 

■ 


i. 


I  \ 


1^  BF   " 

11 


ill' 

lli 


O04  '^'/i'^  ^ron(fcn■»^  Yankee. 

'"in":  rrr'o,  aty  Co«.e,Uo,,  st.eet  ^ 
ttfpLt  Baptist  Chut*  B^v^J^A^  Oo>don 

tcrian  Church,  Bey.  »"°«"  ^  J  ^een  the 
Then,  occupying  a  'J"';!  "'„  j'  '%o„tinent, 
largest  Protestant  church  on  thyont  ^ 
the  St.  James  Methodist,  Bev.  J.  w.  i^r 

»"^  ''"■•«?■  c1.-theCe'  re1"n™ed  down  Bieury 
,Z",5e?ret,  passing  tW^^t^^^^^^^^ 

1  tif   ATqrv's  Colle»Ke  adjoining,— ^mmuu 
and  fet.  Mary  8  ^u     j,  ^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^ 

among  churches),    ^t  the  co  ^^ 

Dorchester  Sam  pointed  east  <>«  ^/^^ 
Dufferin  Square,  a  block  ^--^^^^/^  ^f  tt  of 
r.olcstant  ^;»|f  ^^-fntr't^^^^^^^^        which 
irrar^Ui^eh:^^^^^^^  can  see  to  the  right 
The  Sacred  Heart  Convent  and  School. 

K-Iatta'irl;  is  one  o.^Ue  -t  J»P«  - 
„.hoois  i"  t'-^l^^^rresta'ms'hnlLt  at  the 
Z^^^,  -chc"/^;  the  Parlc  and  Island 

trolley.  Po+rick's  Church  and 

To  the  left  is  seen  St^^eUd  the  asy- 
0,-plmn  Asjlam  '»  t^^^^Mother  House," 
mm  stands    the    ""Bma'  .    „,so 

UnovMi  as  tlie  Bochhlanc  House.     Here 

"Tt'^Tt^'he'CTnic  Temple,  and  almost 
..,,^Z,  and  cornering  on  University  street,  .s 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
The  Praser  Institute. 


20i 


iJlht^^^  ""^  ^  ^'^''''y  "•«»  ''^n  institute 

The  St.  James's  Club. 
Prom  this  corner,  looking  down  Ilanovor  (a 
-nt,n„at,on  of  University-  street),  may  be  .^.c!n 


•ST.    JAMKS'.S   CLUI5. 


ihe  old  TIif.h  s,.l,ool,  wj.ore  n.nnv  of  the 
Pnunn^nt.  of  the  citv  received  their  ^'^"^ 

on  A  httle  west  of  this  sdiool,  and  fuein.^ 
I  ace  street,  is  the  Roman  CuVholic  i"h 
>^'  'oo  ,  a  large  and  imposing  l.uihling 

'coking  north  towai^  St.  Catherine  street 


f 


206 


lie  Wandering  Yanhc. 
Natural  History  Society's  Museum. 


the     Hon.      jeoige  spacious, 

M.P.P.      HiB    house    ^^Jjj^^^^^ir  Stevens 
well  wooded  grounds.    J^^^^^^^      ^  m 

local    as    .^f,;/,,|r Paul's    Presbyterian 
pass    to    the    .eft    bt  ^^^^    ^^^^^^^^ 

Church     at    Ko_  852     Ke  ^  .^ 

M.A.,      D.D.,      minister.  ^^^ 

the  beautiful  ^^^me    and  line  |r^^^^^^^  ^,, 

J.  H.  Joseph.      At.  ^o  »H  j,^  .. 

-^"^^  It^'tL^rn  :  of  MaTs'/e 'd'  is  the  Knox 
^'^"''t  .on  Church  with  its  fine  carving  over 
Presbyterian  ^^^^f^^'^  ^^^^^^  g.A.,  pastor. 

the  facade.  .^^.I' .^^''r^orchester  and  Do- 
Adjoining,  and  ^^^'""^  '^  M.  C.  A.  building, 
minion  Square,  is  the  large  ^  ^^  tioned 

mentioned  before.      Also  the  atorem 
^t.  James  Cathedral.  -^ion  gquare  to 

Here  we  cross  through  Dominion  ^i 

sant  memory,  as  »»»y//"<^^^^,,iam8. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  207 

thf  pU    •"^^*'  beginning  at  Guy  street,  are 
the  extensive  grounds  of  the  Grey  Nuniery 

founded  1755,  comprising  the  Nunnery  proper 
Church,  Orphan  Asylum,  and  Hospital  Not 
far  from  St.  Mark  street,  at  No.  ?149  ,.  the 
neTfrP.r^^^r"  ^^  ^^  Thomas  a'shault 

8f!«^.h         ''  *^^  magnificent  residence  of  Lord  . 
Strathcona  and  Mount  Royal,  G.C.,  M.G.,  ffigh 
Commissioner  for  Canada  in  London.*  '  Just 

hflH  l.r  «t  *'^P"^^"^^  ^^-"d«  of  Edge' 
hill-fl  led    with  private    residences-one    of 

whot  "tfbl""  '^"^:  ''  ^^^"--  I^-'-k 
min?on  Tf  '!  ^°^  ^^  ^'^^  ^^^^^  ^^  the  Do- 
minion.   It  contains  some  fine  record  trotters 

Bevond,  one  block  to  the  left,  are  the  church 
and  workshops  of  the  Prancisc'ans.    At  Essex 

bevond 'Iv'T  ''  *''  ^^«*^^"  Hospital  ust 
beyond  which  we  come  to  At  water,  a  wide 
avenue.  This  is  the  dividing  line  between 
Montreal    and   Westmount.      Had    Sam  To^ 

rweTin*''  r  '  ^^"^^  ^-'  '^-^  th\1 
TtLl       T     ?^*^^^  "ty  ^y  tbe  look  of  the 

don't t  '  f^"'''  "®^"''  ^hy  is  this?"  «i 
don  t  know,  but  I  heard  that  Westmount  is  run 
by  business  men,  who  look  more  to  the  in  erest 

It  for  thT  m'"",?^  "'"*  *^^^  '--  make  out  : 
hat  Wp^'     '!•        '^^^  ^«  '^o  question  but 
easo^  '  '"  ^'"  ^"^"^^^  ^fter  for  some 


mJ'^^^^'T^'''  '^^'*™^»  and  Lord    Strathcona 
mentioned  under  "Titled  Montreal."  "'''""^ 


208 


The  iVandcring  Yankee. 


To  our  left,  on  the  west  side  of  Atwater,  is 
the  small  St.  Stephen's  Chapel   We  drove  down 
Bruce  avenue,  which  ends  at  the  C.P.K.  tiack, 
to  get  a  view  over  the  suburban  towns  of  M. 
Henri,  Ste.  Cunegonde  (immediately  before  us), 
Cote  St.  Paul,  and  Verdun,  then  back  to  Dor- 
chester, which  ends  one  block  away,  at  the 
Montreal      Amateur      Athletic      Asso-.atioM 
grounds,  with  its  toboggan,  skating,  lacrosse, 
etc       The    grounds    are  enclosed    by  a    higli 
fence,  and  are  quite  extensive,  with  immense 
seating  capacity.      Up  one  alock,  at  Hallowel 
street  we  again  found  St.  Catherine  street,  out 
which;  to  the  west,  We  reach  The  Glen  passing 
on  the  way  many  fine  residences.      This  G  en 
was  formerly  a   large    water   course     leading 
down  from  the  mountain.       We  went  out  St. 
Catherine  street  tc  Victoria  avenue  and  up  a 
steep  hill  to  Cote  St.  Antoine  road,  crossing 
the  noted  driveway  of  Westmount,  Western 
j,venuo-with     its     long  rows     of     trees  and 
beautifully    kept,    grass-bordered    sidewalks. 
Just  bevond  this  avenue,  looking  out  Victoria, 
a  good  view  is  had,  to  the  left  on  the  far  hiU, 
of  the  burned  ruins  of  Ville  Marie  Convent. 

Passing  down  Cote  St.  Antoine  road,  back 
toward  the  city,  we  see  all  along  many  old 
hoaiesteads,  interspersed  with  new  and  modern 
houses.  Among  which  is  the  home  of  West- 
mount's  Mayor,  Mr.  Lighthall  (of  former 
mention)  on  the  north-west  corner  of  Murray 
avenue.  There  is  a  pretty  tree  embowered 
Anglioan  church,  just  beyond.  One  blocic 
further  on,  on  the  same  side,  is  St  Andrew^a 
Church,  Rev.  G.  F.  Johnson,  a  young  but  rapid- 
Iv  rising  Nova  Scotian,  being  pastoi.    To  the 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  209 

right   is  the  Westmount  Cnrling  Rink,  whose 
membership  mciades  the  best  citizen.,  o"  M.e 

tT'tt  u""  *v'  '"^*    ^'    ^"^"    t''^  Westn.ount 
l-ity  Hall,  police  station,  and  fire  hall.      This 

IS    not   a    very   imposing    building,    but    then 
A^estmount  really  has   no  need  for  a  police 
station  or  even  a  Are  hall.    The  assembly  hall 
of    he  town  is  Victoria  Hall,  a  very  handsome 
build.ng,  situated    in    the   park,   containing  a 
public   gymnasium.       Situated    alongside  Vic- 
toria Hall  is  the  public  library,  a  tine  building, 
erected  for  the  purpose.       I„    the   park   is   a 
public  swimming  bath,  as  well  as  recreation 
grounds.     Kight  here  may  be  seen  the  follow- 
ing sign:  "Priva.e  grounds,  temporarilv  open 
ed  to  the  residents  of  Westmount."      This  is 
m  strange  contrast  to  one  seen  near  by  on  en- 
tering Montreal,  as  follows  :  -  The  Police  will 
arrest  any  one  found  on  this  property  "     Con 
tinning   our  drive  on    St.    Antoine  Voad,  we 
read!  A^es  mour.t  Academy,  a  tine,  imposing 
l>uildmg,  almost  opposite  to  'vhi.h  begin  the 
grounds  to  be  made  into  a  beautiful  and  exten- 
sive park. 

Coming    east    we    reached    Wood    avenue 
where  our  westward  morning  trip  had  ended,' 
as  we  turned  south  to  St.  Catherine.       Thi.s 
time  we  turned  north,  and,  by  a  zig-zag  road 
known  as  Holton  avenue,  we  reached  Kinnon 
Hvenue,    the    highest  on    the    mountain  side. 
This  we  followed  out  to  Cote  des  Neiges  Vil- 
lage (Hill    of    tiie    Snows)  road,  just    before 
reaching  which  we    saw  to   the    left   a    little 
stone  tower  known   as   tiie  Trafalgar-legend 
says  It  was  built  by  an  old  sea-<aptain.  who  on 


210 


The  IVaiidcring  Yankee. 


Trafalgar  Day  fired  off  a  little  cannon  to  cele- 
brate the  victory  in  which  he  had  taken  part. 
There  is  also  a  haunted  story  connected  with 
it. 

Out  the  Cote  des  Neiges  road  a  short  dista. 
is  the  property  of  the  late  Col.  S+rathy,  and 
further   ilong,  adjoining,  is  the  ground  where 
stood  I       old 


l:i 


1-B' 


m 


i\ 


Capitulation  House, 
where  Gen.  Amherst  had  his  headquarters,  and 


CITY  llESERVOm   FROM  THE   PARK. 

where  the  French  Governor  surrendered  to  +he 
English— in  1760— Sept.  8— then  under  Gen- 
erals Amherst  and  Murray.  The  site  is  now 
occupied  by  the  Westmount  reservoir.  To  the 
right  at  the  corner  of  this  (Kinnon)  avenue,  at 
Cote  des  Neiges  road,  is  the  old  Botanical 
Gardens  of  McGill  College,  and  opposite  is  the 


The  IVainlcriug  Vankcc. 


211 

JXo  ^T  ''r«r'°'"  "'''"^^^d  ^«  ^  ladies' 
tolKge.      I  ve  had  much  toll-gate  experience 

ut>  limits,  where  we  turned  to  the  left  into 

Mount  Royal  Bark, 
•nidt  'T,^''''''  4^^^  ^"-^^  of  the  mountain, 

•  e  sti;  .  :t"  '^ '"^^"^' ^^  *^-  d-t-"-« 

walk  ''   """"'^    ^"   '^«   ^^t'g"i°g  to 

The  views  from  the. various  points  are  al- 
most hke  looking  down  from  Pen  Mar,  on  the 
l^vf'       "'''''^    'ailroad-west    of   BaIt^ 

•  'Oking  toward  the  rive,-  over  the  citv,  we 

.       at  the  extreme  west  the  Laehine  Kapids,- 

<m     shuul    St.  Paul  or  Nuns'  Island,  then 

rl      \K-tona     bridge,  at  the     further    end  of 

Hluch  IS  the  village  of  St.  Lambert.     Next  the 

l^ands^  3ro::att  and  St.  Holen,  in  front^of  Z 

I  tai^elle;^ "  ^"'"  """"  *"^  "•^-^-" 
AVe  left  the  park  and  drove  first  through 

Cote  des   Neiges  Cemetery, 

the  Catholic  burial  place.  It  is  beauti- 
fu  and  contains  many  handsome  monu- 
ments and  vaults.  Sam  pointed  out  the 
Sta  ions  of  the  Cross;  the  monument  erected 
to  the -patriots  of  the  Rebellion  of  1837,"  and 
oZ'TT  t  "'^'^*  P°^"*«  «^  "^t^^est,  bit  the 

tTon  of  .r"/"'''"'-^'  ^'''^''  ^««*  the  atten 
tion  of  the  tourist  is  the  monument  of  Frs 
Guihord    who  wac    fm.  -  i-   . 

-  u,  wrio  was,  tor  some  religious  reason, 


212 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


>i\ 


y  • 


I- 1 


\\ 


long  refused  burial  herein.  The  monument  is 
u  great  boulder  with  a  marble  tablet 
set  in;  but  which  has  been  so  cut  away  by 
relic-hunters  and  others,  that  it  is  now  almost 
level  with  the  boulder  itself.  He  is  buried 
over  six  feet  below  the  ground,  which  is  only 
consecrated  to  that  depth— so  says  Sam. 

Crossing  the  road  dividing  the  two  grounds, 
which  road,  by  the  way,  ends  at  where  the  two 
entrance  gates  face  each  other,  we  entered  the 
Protestant  or 

Mount  Royal  Cemetery. 

Like  the  one  just  seen,  it  is  beautifully  laid 
out,  and  well  kept.    The  first  thing  of  interest 
that  attracts  the  attention,  is  the  Firemen's 
lot  and  monument.      Numerous  vaults, are  to 
I  e  seen,  though  not  so  many  as  in  the  Cote  des 
Neiges.     On  the  highest  point  of  the  grounds 
mav  be    seen    the    Molson    monuments    and 
vaJlts.     To  til.'  left  of  these  is  the  magnificent 
Crematory  and  Conservatory.  There  is  nothing 
on  the  Continent  to  equal  it  in  beauty.      It  is 
very  large,  and  perfect  in  all  its  appointments. 
It  is  one  of  the  sights  whidi  no  tourist  should 
miss.     Coming  down   the   hill   leading  to  the 
front,  or  main  entrance,  we  pass  the  Hackett 
monument,  the  interesting  ])articular8  of  which 
all  "  Sams"  will  give  you.     In  this  cemetery  is 
buried  Ileavysage,  the  noted  poet,  author  of 
''Haul,"  and  other  poems.      Speaking  of  Saul 
reminds  me   that  David  is  also  buried  here. 
His  vault  contains  the  simple  name.    One  day 
a  little  Sunday-school  boy  visiting  the  cemetery 
with  his  mother,  on  coming  to  this   vault   stop- 


:i^  '^m 


The  Wandenng  Yankee.  213 

ped,  and,  in  amazement,  said  :  '^  Oh  mamni-. 
-e    quick,  here  is    where    David    is  bu    ed- 

thi!  .1  '  '^^"  ''^"^'      K«««  «ays  of  them 

"mer^^'hTV  ™'^*  ^^^'^^^  specimens  ;^ 
Amenca,  he  having  made  a  study  of  those 
found  zn  Ireland,  and  pronounces  these  pure  in 

Ind  offi  ""  /  '  ''  "'''  Superintendent's  house 
and  office  and  to  the  right  the  chapel,  we  find 
o^irselves  in  a  fine  tree-lined  road,  li^vd  nTback 
Mount     I    ;""°^  ^'"^  ^««''  '-^"^  »-'•  to  the 

c^ish  fometpries.  The  Ohaldaic  lettering 
and  antique  tomb-stones  deserve  more  than  a 
hurned  notice  Wo  oame  down  this  road  to 
I  .uk  avenue,  where  we  again  entered  the  Park 
through  Fletcher's  field,  passing  on  the  wav  the 
Montreal  Royal  Golf  (^l„b  Jinks  and  o  ' 
Olub  house  to  the  imn.ense  buildings  '•  n  1 
grounds  of  the  '«•"?,«    ana 

Hotel  Dleu, 
oomppi^sing    a    nunnery,  hospital  and    chapel 
The  full  name  of  this  greatest  .>f  Ron.an  Cat  lo 
1.0  hosp  tals   in    Montreal,    is  n,>tel    Die     8 
JoHoph  de  Villo  Marie.     The  grounds  a  e  about' 
l.ree  qiiarfers  of  a  mile  in  circumference   2 

nnt  •  K  "^  ^^"''"'*^^  '^^  «'''li'>".  "  the 
unkno.^  benefactress."  who  gave  40,000  liv.!; 
to    four. I    a  hospital.      At    that    time  there 


^i?f"^?^RK» 


214 


The  Wandcriug  Yankee. 


the  years  since  done  a  vast  measure  of  good. 
The  original  hospital  was  on  St.  Paul  street 
near  Custom  House  Square,  mentioned  in  the 
morning  trip.  On  the  front  wall  of  the 
present  building  is  a  tablet.  Mile.  Mance,  its 
foundress,  was  an  interesting  woman,  whose 
works  are  seen  on  all  sides,  about  the  city. 
From  Hotel  Dieu  we  returned  to  St.  Catherine 
street  by  way  of  Park  avenue  proper,  to  Milton 


ROYAL   Vli  .OKI A    HOSl'lTAI- 

Street,  thence  west  to  University  street,  on  the 
corner  of  which  is  situated  the  fine  building  of 
the 

Methodist  Theologrical  College. 
T'niversity  street  near  this  point  has  two  insti 
tut  ions  of  spt-iial  interest,  one  is 


;  t 


^.,     -:. 


f(Y. 


The  IVaiidcriiig  Yaiikc 
The  Diocesan  Anglican  College. 


215 


»oyal  Victoria  Hospital, 
in  the  other  direction  on  Pine  Avenue       Thi« 
sTphe?"  ^/.Y^r^-tl^eona  and  LoM  Mo^n 

Montreal      It  , '  ,'    -f'  "'^  ^""^*  ^'^^P'*^'  ^n 
It«  In!.  ■•  ""  '  ^'^'^  ^  ^'•'^a*  Scotch  castle 

Is    belutifuT    -1  "'^  ^'  "^^  "-"»*--  i« 
Tt  is  .nl"      J'  P'^*"''^«q»^  and  commanding. 

grour      ''"""'^^  ^-^^  ^^t^««--^  and  well-kept 

Turning  to  the  left  on  to  Pine  Avenue  pass 

SVr"  ''  ""^"  ^^«^^--'  -^  the  Ve      of 
S  a?  1?^  ^T""/«'  ^-^  '^^^-  to  McTavisl 
street,  at  the  head  of  which  is  seen  the  beauti- 
ful   residence    and    grounds    of    the     1 1  Ian  s 
Shghtlv   west   of   which,    bordering   the  ^   k 
road,  may  be  seen  the  upper  reservoir    nnrJ 
surrounded  by  a  stone  wall,  is  the  \rT.vis1; 
monument,  overgrown  with  bushes  and   'r^e 

le  t  The  p""  n'f '^."'^"  '"'"^'^  ^^  P"ss  atThe 
left   the   Presbytenan  College.   Dr.   McVicker 

President,  and  the  Congregational  College  to 

brooke,  and  then.e  came  down  Metcalf  stit^et 
to  Dominion  Square. 


216  The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Sttburban  Xlrips. 

One  of  the  suburban  trips  is  to  the  town  of 
Lachine, 

about  nine  miles  up  the  river  from  the  city,  by 
way    of     McGill     street    to    Common,  from 
which     we     cross  Black's  Bridge     over     the 
head  of  the  canal  locks  into  Mill  street,  which 
is  well  named,  as  heiv  are  located  some  of  the 
meat  industries  of  >Iontreal.       Hu«e  rolling 
and  nail-making  mills,  Ogilvie's  elevator  and 
flouring  mills.     We  cross  a  flume  of  the  cana 
and  see  to  the  right  Tait's  ship  y*"-d,  to  the  left 
the  Laing    Meat    Company's    gi-eat     packing 
houses.      We  pass    th'    cattle    yards    of    the 
Grand  Trunk.      Out  St.  Etienne  street  to  the 
left  mav  be  had  a  good  view  of  the  immense 
Victoria    Bridge.      Turning  to    the    right  we 
reach  Wellington   street,   near  which    are  the 
offices  and  car  yards  of  the  Grand  Trunk.     The 
general  offices  are  just  now  being  removed  to 
McGill  street,  to  the  new  offices.     Out  AN  elling- 
ton  street  through 

Point  St.  Charles, 
to  the  citv  limits.  One  is  pleasantly  disap- 
pointed with  this  part  of  Montreal  I  had 
the  impression  that  it  was  all  an  inferior  por- 
tion-but instead  the  neat  houses  and  well- 
kept  lawns  bespeak  much  for  the  flne-looking 
people  we  meet  in  passing. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


217 


St.  Paul,  or  Nun's  Island, 

'LT^'^f  *°  *^^  ^^"-    "  i«  Jo"g  and  narrow 
and  we  1  wooded.    The  dyke,  built  to  keep  oJI 

Verdun, 

L^slr^^"^^  ^^'"^  *^^  "^^^  ^°d  ^^tending 

is  seenTht   '      °'^-      ''"^^  ^^^^"^  *<>  t^e  righf 
IS  seen  the  immense 

Verdun  Insane  Asylum, 

belor-nng  to  the  Protestants.  The  grounds  are 
extensive  and  well  k^nf  \*  ""^  »*"""**»  are 
nflrt^  +»,^  rr  V  ^  ^*  Verdun  are  two 
parks,  the  King's  and  Queen's-with  enclosed 
ball  grounds.    The  river  is  several  miles  wide 

fara^rosTt^J^^'-J"^*  ^^^^^  passTng'wMl 
rar  across  the  bay— as  here  the  river  seems 
IS  seen  the  small  town  of  seems- 

Laprairie, 
Which  is  reached  from  the  city  by  a  ferry  boat 

I  favortr  "'''-'''  *"^  '^"^  ™-  -"age  i 
a  favorite  camping  ground  for  the  militia-as 
there  is  here  a  large  open  common.  All  alon^ 
are  pretty  houses.  Especially  so  is  tht  of  thf 
Ogilvies,  with  its  immense  grounds  and  lar^e 
house,  with  outhouses.  ^ 

^rirLi^htri^^  great  power-house  of  the  Elec- 


are  divided  by 


Lachlne  Baplds, 


He  Heron, 
with  the  stranger,    that    the    rapid,    are  at 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


218      ' 

Laehine;  but  instead  they  are  not  much  over 
half  wav  out  from  the  city. 

There  are  many  very  old  houses  all  along 
this  lower  road,  but  the  one  which  has  cluster- 
ing round  it  the  greatest  interest  is 

The  Lasalle  Homestead  of   1666, 
but,  owing  to  a  want  of  pride  in  the  old   the 
''clustering"  will  soon  be  a  memory  only,  as 
there  is  Utile  left  to  mark  the  spot  save  a  pi  e 
of  rocks    from    the  crumbling    walls.      These 


TllK   LASALLK    IIOMKSTEAI.   OK    1000. 


,,uns  are  seen  a  short  distance  west  of  the 
uxew   Inland  <^ut,"   of  the  Montreal  VSatei 
^vo^s    a       justattlu.  footof  tlu.  "Fr^^^^^^^ 

inr  an  eluMMubowered  rise  in  the  road,  on 

to,>  of    which    resides    Miss    Fraser       he 

Vuiuh  er  and  only  surviving  member  of  the 

Sv  of  .Tohn  Fraser.  a  remarkable  man  of 

e    Id  school.     It  is  to  him  1  am  much  indebt- 

elfor  many  things  of  inierest  on  this  Lower 


The  Wandering  Yankee, 


2J9 

Road  as  his  writings  are  vcrv  Droliflc-of  farf^ 
which  might  have  been  lost  but  for  him 

we  I'^afirL*!  '^^'  ''  'r^  ^'^'''  ^»d  had  as 
f  On  H  ^'  «">>vhere,  that  the  Provin.v 

of  Quebec  owes  it  to  the  tourist  to  look  after 
Jts  old  landmarks  better  than  it  does  rt 
inqmsitave  Yankee  is  ever  hunting  up  ihe  lid 

have  lU^'on '^'i^'"-"^'  "^"^^^'  in  cLaL  to 
have  ihe  old"  kept  up,  and  not  allowed  to 
fall  mo  ruins,  as  many  an  historic  hou^  h-  s 
been  allowed  to  fall.    The  La  Salle    Ze  was 

ChateaTir     /""'  "^^--t-it  lies  in  IJ^ 
Uiateau   Bigot,  near  Quebec  was  the   Alecr-. 
of  man,  a  hunter  after  the  old  hist^ri Vs-b  u 
part  of  two  walls  of  it  remain.    A  few  vea rl 

once  they  stood,  especially  so  if  fence  material 
continues  scarce  in  their  localities    ^nd  X 

deToM  of  ^r"'  :^^*^""^  '^  ^^  ecLo" 
aevoid  of  all  sentiment  for  the  "old"    The 

i^vince    should    buy   and    preserve    the    ol 

landmarks,  and   not  allow   them   to  be   los 

else  whon  all  are  gone  the  aforesaid  '^  Inouis  ' 

tive"  may  seek  elsewhere  the  things  wS  h o 

will  go  all  sorts  of  distances  and  spfnd    arL  s 

kinds  of  money,  which  he  so  willing,;' i^^^^ 

with,  If  he  can  see  the  "old"       Tf  ^L      , 

;"ake  the  laws  lack  sentiment,  th      ^^ 

T  Jhin  ""'"^  ^•^."^'^.-r^''^  Salle's-the  fl.^t  built  in 
Uchine  or  vicinity,  occupied  bv  three  men  of 
".ore  than  national  interest -Chami^aTn  A 
Salle,  and  ruillerier,-has  been  allo".^  "'f'" 
■n<"  rums,  and  the  almost  sacred  stones  use 


220 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


to  keep  the  chickens  out  of  the  front  yard  of 
the  house  adjoining.    The  history  of  La  Salle 
is  worthy  of  a  volume  rather  than  a  passing 
notice.       He  once  lived  at  the  corner  of  St. 
Pjiul— No.  498— and  St.  Peter  streets,  where  is 
seen  a  tablet.    From  this  house  he  went  to  live 
in  Lachine.       It  is  said  that  the  name  "  La- 
chine"  came  from  an  exclamation  of  La  Salle. 
When  he  beheld  the  widening  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence into  Lake  St.  Louis,  he  cried  out:  "La 
Chine!"  thinking   he   had    found    China— The 
Chine— or  La  Chine.      From  here  his  intrepid 

longing  for  discovery  carried  him  to  the  far 

west,  where,  as  the  first  white  man,  he  saw 

the  Mississippi  River.      Read   his  life.      It's 

worth  while. 

Bevond  and  to  the  right,  just  before  coming 

to    the   long    Canadian    Pacific    bridge    that 

crosses  the  river,  we  see 

The  Novitiate  of  the  Oblate  Fathers. 

where  are  35  young    men    preparing    for  the 

priesthood. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Bridge, 

under  which  we  shortly  pass,  is  nearly  a  mile 
long,  and  very  high  above  the  water.  About 
300  yards  further  on,  toward  the  town  proper 
stands 

The  Old  Windmill, 
which,  like  the  La  Salle  homestead,  is  one  of 
the  sights  of  this  Lower  Road.  It  is  fast  going 
to  decay.  The  long  arms  have  fallen  awoy  and 
the  wooden  covering  of  the  stones  is  dropping 
off.  Mrs.  Flemming,  a  kind-faced  old  lady, 
lives  in  the  small  house  that  stands  by  the 


The  IVamhring  Yankee,  221 

roadside  in  front  of  the  old  mill    fi       . 
which  is  interesting.      The  fSr  If  f    T  ^^ 


9^'% 


OLD    WINDMILL. 

the    Island.      He    foiifrhf    ;f    fi 


I'  i'l 


1  I 


999 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


died,  leaving  the  mill  to  his  son,  who  ran  it 
for  years,  and  he,  too,  passed  away,  leaving 
the  inheritance  to  the  original  winds,  and  they 
f„r  years  have  ground  and  ground,  but  then- 
grist  is  the  mill  itself. 

Lachine. 
We  are  now  in  the  old  town,  mih-s  long,  but 
very  narrow.    Directly  across  the  river  u  seen 
the  Indian  town  of 

Coughnawaga, 
(he  Reservation  of  these  people  extending  for 
miles  ui)  and  dc  "n  the  river. 


T/y  C/tti 


jAt  ts  I'tt.-T'*^ 


This  Lower  Road  over  which  we  have  just 
passed  was  in  the  eariy  days  known  as 

The  King's  Highway, 
and  was  the  only  means  of  reaching  Lachine. 
Here  have  marched  up  and  down  in  the  long 
ago  the  men  who  carved  out  a  nation.      Ere 


J  W.Tij^-iMULW 


The  IVamhriiig  Yauk 


dr. 


22:) 


Jong  there  will  be  notl,in,r  u 


loii 


V:  ago   with   tlie 


milized  (?)  spent  the  wealth  of 
ties  to  cavvy  down  the  1 
the  fact  tliat  the 


ing  left  to  connect  that 
present.       Egypt,  the  nn- 


tlfirty  djnas- 
ong  corridors  of  time 


y  once  existed,  whij 


^    nl'^\?''^''  ''•"^^""^'  tear  do 
tige    of    the    old,  coniniemal 


e  we  of 
wn  every  ves- 
i>5ing    the\ery 


shame— Canad 


\\ 


bridg 


e  r 


ire  IS 


a,  save  the  landmarl 


w  world.      F 


*y 

or 


•each  the  canal,  and,  wh 


l<s! 


oi'^n,  we  sit  and  look  t 


iie  the  draw- 


see  the  vast  works  of  the 


o  the  right  and 


<V)njpany,  to  the  h^ft,  in  tl 


I>ominion   IJridge 


f*'!'     the     Hrst 


time     two 


le  canal  basin,  we  see 


steamers.     Had  often  read 
was  our  first  sight  of 
and  coal  carriers.     \\ 


these 
cross 


fc'i-eat     whale  back 
of  them,  but  this 
mammoth  grain 


the 


oridge  when 


thTlbi''  ^!':'''  "P  •'•'""^'^''^  -^•<J  or  street 
that  skirts    the  water    front    in     nin-..„    ..^  . 


a  I  way  .3  neai-  it 


•ont    in    plat 


and 


Lake  St.   Louis, 


IS  the  widening  of  tha  m-   t 

it  IS  said  to  cover  2(H)  sijuare  miles    nnd  1.... 

rKii^eit^----^---;-^^^^ 

A  beautiful  view  of  the  lake  is  had  from 
Lake  View  House, 

andXf*o?^nt7"^^""-^^-*^^'- 
Comimrv      vvl  ?  '''''^  ^'^'''    Navigation 

v-ompan^v,    where    the    steamer    "SovereiLr,," 

^'a's  u7/e  '''•  """^"^    '^^^«  well-known  h"tL 
^as  undergoing  repairs  the    lay  we   were  fn 


224  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

town-when  completed  it  will  be  a  fine  hostel- 
rr.  Rumor  says  it  is  to  be  run  by  o^^  of  the 
best  known  in  his  line  in  Montreal.  Be  that 
as  it  may,  here  is  the  best  lake  view  to  be  had. 
I  tried  to  get  the  history  of  this  old  house- 
one  of  the  historic  houses  of  Lachine,  but  did 
not  succeed.  You  may  look  for  it  in  the  sec- 
ond edition. 

Post  Office. 
Lachine  has  the  best  post-office  building  I 
have  ever  seen  in  so  small  a  town     In  Canada 
the  Government  erects  office  buildings  in  far 
smaller  towns  than  we  do.      This  fine  stone 
structure  would  do  credit  to  a  city.    It  stands 
near  the  old  wharf,  and  not  far  from  where 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  formerly  ran  to  a 
ferry  Wharf,  from  which  the  cars  were  carried 
across  the  lake  in  boats,  to  a  point  above 
Caughnawaga. 

It  is  here  where  are  held  many  yacht  regat- 
tas. There  is  a  boat  club  here,  with  a  large 
membership  from  Montreal.  Of  Lake  St 
Louis  I  will  speak  later,  as  the  Colonel  and  I 
were  shortly  to  go  to  St.  Anne's,  at  the  head 
of  the  lake-up  there  where  the  Ottawa  nver 
enters  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Canal. 
The  Lachine  Canal  begins  here  and  runs  nine 
miles  to  the  Montreal  Harbor.  Boats  can  go 
down  the  rapids,  but  coming  up  must  conae  by 
the  canal,  which  is  wide  and  deep  enough  for 
large  river  and  lake  steamships.  Ships  can 
run  by  night  as  well  as  by  day  as  it  is  now 
lighted  the  whole  way  by  electric  lights. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  225 

Lachine  was  once  the  summer  residence  of 
many  Montrealers,  but  since  the  opening" p  by 

Ides   thev?  "*'"'■''  ^'  *'^  ^^'-^"'^f"'  ^au  c!;": 
tides,  they  have  quite  deserted  this  little  city 

-which   notwithstanding   is   growing   into   . 
prosperous  suburb,  owing  to  the  g  "ft  nmnu 
facturing  interests  here. 

Here  is    a  large    Roman    Catholic  church 
but  the  one  of  more  interest  to  the  tourisTk 
he   old   chapel,   in   the   rear-surro,      od   ^ 
little  white  monuments  to  the  long  ago   lead 

teli?of'th:'K    '*  '^  '^'^  ''  *'-  ^'«P' '  ^-r,- 
protpTed  ml  tlZ  ^^"  -^«  '^^^'  ^'^--  >-e 
The  Upper  Boad. 
We  return  to  Montreal  by  the  upper  road- 

Rpin  J  r'"'^*  ^^"""^  •'^''^  "''-^".v  P^'^'tty  vi'w^ 
Being  high  the  canal,  river  and  intorven  n'.' 
country  presents  a  fine  scene-with  t he  c  t    h 

trL^unt^lli'^'"'  *'^  '''  ^^^^^'  ^-r^^on^  loom 
rne  mountain  ranges— some  of  them  neiHv 
one  hundred  miles  away.    We  pass  the  ^ 

Blue  Bonnet  Village, 

with  the  houses  nearly  all  gone.     This  w.s  •, 
famous  stopping  place  for  fho  +  • 

inri  'QQ   A     •     \  ^  ^^  '^"e  troops    u  1837 

and  38,  during  Rebellion  times.    AVe  pass 

Kensington, 

a  suburb  that  promises  much  as  a  western  ex 
tension  of  the  pitv  Tf  ;„  w  i  "^»i^^'u  ex- 
]noaiJ  tV'  ^'  ^  '^  **^S'^  »o^  verv  well 
located.  T\e  pass  the  Penner  Farm^  once 
noted  for  its  cider.  Beyond  this  farm  we  Zm 
abruptly  to  the  left  into  Cote  St.  Luke       We 


H  • 


226 


The  Wamicriiig  Yaiikrc. 


i   t 


I 

I 


i  i! 


shortly  cross  the  Windsor  branch  of  the  C.P.R., 
and  on  the  left,  on  the  hill,  pass  the 

Mackay  Institute, 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb.       Cote  8t.  Antoine 
road  of  former  mention,  ends  here.    This  road 
„„  which  we  are  passing  is  the  western  limit 
of  Westmount.    To  the  right  we  pass  the  Cote 
St  Luke  Chur.h— the  old  Monklands,  formerly 
thi>  residence  of     Canada's     Governors,    now 
called  Villa  Marie,  and  several  massive  build- 
ings—the Nuns'  Seminary  for  young  ladie:^.  The 
burned  ruins  of  the  Ste.  Marie  Convent  are  seen 
again  on  a   far  hill.     We  shortly   turn  to  the 
right,  pass,  on  the  left,  the  junction  of  the 
"\round  the  Mountain"  trolley  line  with  tluit 
of  the  one  running  out  to  (\ir(ierville,  go  on 
eavt  to  the  seburb  of  Cote  des  Neiges   with 
a  magnificent  view  of  country  all  along  toward 
the  north    to    th«'  Rivier    la    Prairie,  or  Hack 
River     This  view  is  worth  coming  far  to  see. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  of  any  save  that  from 
the  Mountain  itself.    We  see  far  down  in  the 
distance  the  town  of  St.  Laurent  with  its  great 
double-towered  church  and  schools.      On  the 
left  we  pass  the  Montreal  Hunt  Club  House 
and  tine  grounds,  and  the  Notre  Dame  (^ollege, 
and  on  the  right  the  tre(>  embowered  house.oncf 
the  .ountrvhomeof  the  M.A.A.A.,of  frequent 
mention.     Here  we  turn   to  the  left  and  are 
in  the  village  of  C(»te  de  Neiges.     Up  the  road 
on  which  we  tlnd  ourstlves,  once  passed  Am- 
hci-st's  armv.  to  take  the  city  from  the  French 
in  1760.       Passing  a  church  we  come  to  the 
junction  of  the  Cote  St.  Catherine  road.    The 
view  of  th<>  country  from  here  is  a  poem— 
which  I  cannot  write.    See  it  yourself. 


-»  1 


^m. 


The  IVandcring  Vankcc. 


227 


I-iissinj.  many  ppetty  hom<     .lou^  ih.  f'ote 
^t- C  atherino    road,    we    en...-    *>„,,  ? 

^tjond   tlie   Mountain" to   i   ..   i,  #•<    •     ^, 

.   ,     .    "feiiieis  in  this  ninnicinalitv "     Tr. 

nana,      »>tratluona.  '     "  Tlicic  f„  n.<      •   i.   • 
the  site  of  tho  "''    '"'-''*   ''^ 

Old   Lime   Kiln, 
Where  d,„.i„.  the    winter   of    the   Ship   Fever 
^'•aro  a  poor  family  livod-ti.e  people    ,ro,m 

the  if    r  ''  ^'"^  *^"^^  t^''^t  ever  ran  on 

stands  there  rottin-r  a^"  v      if  «.^    f  ^'^''^'*^' 

from  the  river  for  m      V      t  '•'''*"^'''^  "'* 

,  '      '  '^  ''"^'<-  s'linmer  hous<'      \Vi. 

ai-e  now  bark  in  Fhtcher'n  fi..l.i    f     .       1,    ^^ ' 

"•■•'-I.-.U. Hh.wl/ii ;,  .tj^j;:':;;v  "ri' 

citv    wJii  """"'•"•     ^'^  "»«»V  to.irislH  visit  a 

a        grow  "tTr'ed'  "Z"'"''  ''''  *""'^'«  *«  '^^^ 
g'OH      tired     and     ^o     away     with     a 


poor    opinion-  of    a    beautiful 
instead  of  getting  int 


interest 
seeing 


<'Jty    full     of 
o  a  carriage  and 


It  in  eage  and  comfort,  and  at  an  actual 


'.'f 


n 


i 


228 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


saving  of  money,  for  in  a  single  day,  or  two  at 
furthest,  one  can  be  shown,  by  a  driving  guide, 
more  than  ran  be  found  alone  in  a  month,  if  at 
all.  Why,  Sam  has  shown  to  mo  more  in  the 
two  days  we  were  out  than  I  had  found  in  two 
months.  In  fact  he  took  me  to  places  I  could 
not  have  found  alone— and  why  not?  The 
cabman  knows  what  to  see,  and  how  to  see  it 
to  the  best  advantage.  Yes,  by  all  means 
drive,  and  save  money,  time,  and  besides  got 
to  see  what  you  came  to  see— the  city's  sights. 

If  all  that  the  tourist  don't  see  were  put  into 
book  form,  he'd  have  a  big  library  of  huge  vol- 
umes when  he  gets  homo.     He  comos  to  a  ^  ty, 
and    with    the    best    intentions    in    the  world 
starts  in  to  see  it  all.       He  asks  all  sorts  of 
questions,  of   all   sorts   of   people    who  don't 
know  any  more  of  the  real  things  worth  seeing 
than  he  does,  for  they  usually  live  in  the  place, 
and,  of  course,  know  nothing   about  it.      He 
spends  the  day  hunting,  and  comes  in  at  night 
feeling  that  he  has' gotten  in  during  the  ''dosed 
season,"  as  he  hasn't  found  much,  and  what  he 
did  find  he  didn't  find  out  what  he  was  looking 
at.      He  is  tired  and  shortly  leaves  town,  and 
when   asked   about   the   city,  tells  of   a   few 
churches  and  big  buildings  he  saw  and  that's 
the  end.      His  listeners  at  home  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  there  is  little  to  ^•ee,  and  next 
year  seek  out  sights  elsewhere.    For  this  rea- 
son I  have  hunted  out  the  things  really  worth 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  229 

wJulo  to  see  01-  places  to  visit,  and  am  trjinij 
to  tell  you  of  them  in  a  way  that  you  ma/ see 
tJ^Mu  most  enjoyablv.  ^ 

Have  vou  seen  this  or  that  sij^ht  !"    "No   i^ 
tha    u,  Ar.nt.eal  .-Wi.y,  j  ,J,,,  ,,,^^^ 

^.iTue  fo...       Tins  ks  especially  tnie  of  one  of 
-    best  trips  one  can  take  about    Montrea 
and  one  of  the  least  known  amonj.  the  relllv 
•'".lovable  ••  out  of  towns."      I  refer  to 


THE  OTTA^^^V  RIVER  TRIP. 

"P,  we  have  heard  it  is  a  beautiful  eitv  " 
;;     don't  mean  the  Capit.     i     >fer  to'the  river." 
^Muit  IS  the,e  an  Ottav  -r,  too  ?" 

haU^„;?^    here,  Strange.,   wIkm.    do  you 
''  I  live  in  Iowa  !" 
"Ol,    in  that  case    I'll  excuse  you,  as    I've 

-nd  about  how  well  inforn.ed  your'teache  s 

-on  ^there,  on  Canada.      Why.  yes.  the  Ot^ 

I'.m  i\  '  Mississippi,  in  front  of  your  State    It 
^  furthermore,  so  chuck  full  of  beautv  that  it 
.ps  over  in  places,  an.l  if  you  miss  s;eini  i 
;>u  wi     go  back  home  having  failed    to    take 
on."  of    be  best  of  Canada's  prize  trips." 

will         «  T'  •'■''"'''''  ^'"*    "«    interested,  how 
^Mll  we  find  it  ?" 

"^^>thing  easier,  do  you    know  where    tho 


230 


The  Waudcriiis:  Yankee. 


i  I- 


Grand  Trunk  Station  is,  at  Windsor  and  St. 
James  streets  ?" 

"  Why,  yes,  it's  just  across  from  the  Queen's 
Hotel,  where  we  are  stopping." 

'*  Well,  at  8  o'clock  you  take  the  train  on  the 
Grand  Tru.ik— go  !)  miles  out,  or  up,  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  Lachine,  and  step  from  the  train 
right  on  to  the 

Steamer    "Sovereign," 

and  in  a  very  few  minutes  you're  off." 

"Look  here,  my  friend— you've  done  me  a 
{uxor— Come  in  and  have  something:''  We  were 
standing  in  front  of  the  Windsor. 

I  thanked  him  anil  told  him  I  never  took 
anything— for  information.  ''Come  in  and 
haVe  something  !"  I  have  wondered  since 
what  he  wanted  to  give  me— and  almost  re- 
gret I  hadn't  gone,  just  to  see  what  an  Iowa 
man  called  "  something."  Now,  had  he  been 
from  Kentucky,  I  would  have— but,  then,  no 
malti'r. 

Imagine  my  surprise  on  seeing  my  Iowa 
friend  with  a  large  party  next  morning  at  the 
Grand  Trunk    Station,  ready  for    his    Ottawa 

Kiver  trip. 

'•  Well,  you  see,  we  ai-e  all  here  I've  been 
asking  about  this  trip,  and  everybody  tells  me 
the  same  thing  you  did— that  to  miss  going  up 
to  Ottawa  by  the  river  would  be  a  big  mistake, 
so.  as  we  were  through  with  Montreal,  having 
be«'n  here  a  week,  we  thought  to  take  the  river 
up  and  see  what  it's  like." 

I'll  go  ahead  of  my  story  just  a  minute  while 
ih«'  r«'s.t  of  the  pnssengers  arc  getting  on,  to 


mir 


The  IVandcruiir  Yankee. 


2?a 
tell  vou   tliat  the  old  man,  whoi,   J.o   and   l.i^ 

"■  -Ve  /  rr  '^"'"^"'  '^'^  "-  in  confide  ;: 
tli.it  he  hadn't  seen  anything  to  equal  the  oT 
t^wa  nve.  ior  down  right  fi;e  ^^^^ 
loft  Iowa  and  that  he  had  seen  a  lot  o'  Xhts 
no     h  Jd  t-;  '1'  ^^""'  '"^  '^^  *''^^*  matte  '^: 

^:^ifr  :;;.;;f:;^:,^;;;r'  ^"^  ^'^^  -'--• 

1  told  you  in  our  Lachine  trip  of 
Lake  St,  Louis. 

ren'feHv'''''  ''  ''  '''  ^^ "'"'""'«  "^  ^he  St.  Luw- 
as  bA  the  nch  yellowish  brown  of  the  Otfiwa 
^    t.'f  .von  ,anno^  but  think  nunh  of  tl  e  L.ke 
^-'-^-  to  that  stream.     A  word  as  to  tht 

Water  Color. 

;^^"-,.n.r:;  ;;--::;;• ''-:';-,s 

I    told    M>I!    of 


;l 


i' 


I 


f: 


i 

1 
( 
i 

1 

^^^^^Ik 

The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Caughnawaga.* 

the  Indian  village,  directly  opposite  Lacliine, 
at  the  south  end  of  the  C.  P.  R.  bridge,  where 
the  railroad  divides,  the  branch  going- to  the 
Adirondacks  and  the  main  line  to  St.  John  and 
the  East.  To  the  right  we  pass  a  village,  on 
the  main  land,  and  an  island,  both  called 

Dorval,  1- 

On  the  island  Sir  George  Simpson  had  his 
home  when  Governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany. It  was  here  that  he  entertained  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  now 

King   Edward. 

during  his  visit  to  America,  in  1800.  There 
are  three  of  these  islands.  Sir  George  once 
claimed  them  but  his  family  have  since  lost 
them  to  the  original  owners  nho  will,  no 
doubt,  in  turn,  lose  them  in  litigation  for  the 
large  family  cannot  agree  to  a  division.  Two 
miles  across  the  Lake,  if  you  will  look  at  the 
map,  you  will  see  Chateauguay,  on  the  liver  of 


•Xote.— The    Indians    of    this    village    are 
noted  boatmen.  In  1884,  50  of  them  were  taken 
up  the  Nile  past  the  Cataracts,  to  lead  the  ex- 
pedition to  relieve  Khartoum. 
|Note.— Sir  George  was  knighted  for  having 
been  the  first  to  explore  the  coast  of  Hudson's 
Bay.      His  voyages  up  the  Ottawa  were  great 
events.      He  went  up  in   a   bark  canoe,  sixty 
feet  long,  being  rowed  by  trained  Indian  boat- 
men.     He  carried  with  him  a  great  retinue. 


<K'^\&-/K^ 


The  IVamicring  Yankee. 


233 

the  same  lum.,.,  with  the  h.rjre    delta    at    the 
month.     Donal  i.s  the  ..vat  yuchtinj  enter  o 
tins  counto-.     Here  and  neai-  l,v  ar  '  loe^i^tVd 

The  Hoyal  St.  Lawrence  Yacht  Club, 
and  the 
Forest  and  Stream  Club. 

It  is  in  this  immediate  water  where  is  h.'hl 
the  world-fan.'ed 

Sewanhaka  Races, 
«o  ralh^d,  hut  so  far,  thej  ean  hardly  be  ealled 
i.wes,  sm<e  the  Canadian  boats  alwavs  lead- 

crews     n    t"^-'  *'';>'•••''''  ^^^'^<''-   than    are    our 

s,  and  the  Canadians  are  justly  proud  of  it  as 
.e   count   ourselves   fairlv   sue.essful   .vaehtl 

"T.1  ^r  "..''''  ^'■•■'^'^^"  ^^■""  '^''''^  iiHportant 
aces  down  there,  near  Sandv  Hook.  St.  Louis 
has  been  known  to  freeze  over  when  it  J  s 
very  cold  down  iu  Arkansaw,  and,  in  tl  •  t 
ovent  this  lake  is  the  s.-ene  of'u.an  a  „  le 
mnute  race  with  ice  boats.      One  man  told  me 

h.r'he"w'"'/r  'r''''  '"•"" '-  '-^  -"^" 

m  hke  to  have  seen  him  do  it-h,.  wouldn't 
have  done  it  the  second  tiu.e  if  I  knew  it  T 
choose  m.v  own  n.eans  of  jroin^  ,^  ,„„,  ,  ;„;„. 
"te,  and  an  ice  boat  isn't  on.,  of  the  n.eans. 

Pointe  Claire 
above  Dorval.       it  i.  «o  full  «f  i,Here«t  tJuU 


mf^Bsv  ^bf: 


f 


i 


234 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


I 


ii 


t     i 


'    I 


you  must  look  it  up  yourself.  It  was  one  of 
the  very  early  villages  about  Montreal,  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  17th  century.  It  had  its 
fort,  and  church,  and  windmill,  the  three  insti- 
tutions which  ever  went  hand  in  hand  in  those 
days. 

Beaurepaire, 

is  further  along  a  short  distance  above  Pointe 
Claire.       It  was  very  early  settled  by  Jean 
(2uonot— a  trader— in  1678.    Jean  wasn't  satis- 
fied to  stay  and  wait  for  trade,  and  one  day 
Avas  caught  "  in  the  depths  of  the  woods,  traf- 
ficking skins  with  the  distant  savage  tribes," 
and  it  cost  him  a  penalty  of  2,000  livres.     Here 
are     the   summer   homes    of    Mr.   McMaster, 
Senator  Drummond,   R.   A.  Mainwaring,   and 
many  other  prominent  Montrealei-s.       It  is  a 
most  picturesque  suburb.      We  pass,  on  either 
side  going  up,  many  islands— some   so   small 
that  they  would    hardly  float    a    name,  while 
others  are  very  large,  especially  so  is  the  one 
wliose  lower  point  is  directly  south  of  Beaure- 
paire, called 

He  Perrot, 

possibly  six  mih's  long,  and  one  and  a  half 
wide  in  places.  It  was  so  named  from  Per- 
rot, a  fur  trader,  in  the  old  days.  Its  upper 
end  is  almost  opposite 

Ste.  Anne  de  Bellevue, 

of  which  I  have  written  as  a  special  trip,  it  be- 
iug  too  full  of  interest  to  note  by  the  way. 
It  is  here  that  the  Canadian  Pacific  and  the 
Grand   Trunk   Railway    leave    the   Island   of 


m 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  oq- 

Two  Canals 

fs^worih'^""'"'''"  •'■"'*  ^^^^^-^  ^'^"^'hing  there 
18  worth  a  passing  word.      It  has  been  dvk(  ^ 
on   either   side,  and   the   earth,  dredged   out 
rXd'ar:  f-^-^--ts.      I't  i«  bettrt: 
scribed  as  a  long,  narrow  island,  cut  in  two 

streTht  wate""  '^"'^  *^  ^old 'the  Ih^nn:, 
as  nere  the  water  is  quite  swift.      In  front  of 

ae  town  is  the  longer  canal,  built  and  ]o"Ld 
to  get  around  the  rapids  at  this  ooint  t  . 
above  the  town  begins  the  ^  '^"'^ 

Lake  of  Two  Mountains, 
wMch  I  told  you  about  in  the  Ste.  Anne  tr!n 
Aftor  passing  out  from  the  canal   and  "short' 

he  beaitful  '%'''"?"  ^^^^^  ^««   P«'"ted 
lue  oeautiful  water  color  picture  ^winVh  t 

produce)  by  Mis«  Macfarlanr,  waT  "rtun-  ,t 

We  see  to  the  right  the  ruins  of 
Fort  Sennevllle, 
^tX^l^l  """'^   "^   —w  part  o,  tie 


2;)G  ^li'■'  n 'a»(/t'/-///,^-  Viiiikrc. 


''     i\ 


M^i^'sm^ 


...» ( 


'/'/'.■  U'diiihriiio  )•(„//.•,-<•. 
L'Isle  des  Pigeons  Sauvages. 

m-    Wil.l     Vi^onu    IsUnul    wl.oro    our.    sluo.l 
.fort      ..alled    .-FoK     d.s     Sauvn,vs." 

..     T    !  ""'""    "'^'    on<-losui-,..       It    ,v,s 

•'"       Imlliin       Ihissi,.,,.  As      wo      Lro       ,„. 

-loo.  ,...,  .,,..„  ,  ,:;...^;,„"  ,;;^;::' 

^'"        V^-^f'''""     •'^l'0'-<'     of     ,1...     lak..      .-nv     n.r 
>'.>n<-ai,M-sn..n,io,..,  ins,..  Ann.   ;'!,!:";;: 


-♦J^ 


"  I'ort  Des  Sauvag-es.  " 


l-'ort  Stnm-ville. 

<'n')inious  hon.sc    of    M,-   it    p     \ ,. 

;■;;;;'':;■'-".-:.>•  Ik- -n  .„•  „.„:;,•„;.' ;; 

oI)„,,,,„,,,,,  ,.  „,;,,„„  ,,„^,^,,..,,>m 

Ml.   .lamos    MoiKa,,,    of   ,|„.   ^„,,,t   ,,,„       ' 

."^"  ;'','„,r;„  ■^'"—'"■™  ."!■■-,_ 

Oka, 

wJiicli  is  r.no  of  flio  j>-  >  f       1. 

the  w.,v  f.  r     M.  '"^eresLin-  points  on 

"H  Hd3  to  Canllon.      It  is  an  old 


■J  n 

Ml 


i^'^:i 


f 


r 


i  It 


if 


238 


(it 

n     u^ 

' 

i 


i1 


The  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


Indian  Mission, 


and  was  established  in  1721,  the  Indians  hav- 
ing been  transferred  from  "  Surly  Clay  "  or 
Back  River,  where  they  were  previously  sta- 
tioned. Just  now  there  is  much  excitement 
among  the  Indians  and  they  are  saying  lots  o' 
things  besides  their  prayers. 

Before  reaching  Oka  and  adjoining  it,  on  the 
east,  we  see  far  to  the  right  on  the  mountain 
side  a  very  large  building.  It  is  the  Monastery 
of 

Les  Trappistes, 

who  have  surrounding  it,  a  great   farm  which 
they  cultivate  in  a  most  scientific  manner,  as 
is  seen   by  their  orchards   and  vineyards,  fine 
thoroughbred  cattle  and  horses,  and  all  kinds 
of  stock.    They  are  one  of  the  very  few  orders 
who  labor  with    their   hands.      Their  cheese, 
Fort-du-Salut,  has    a  world  wide    reputation. 
Thev  are  also  celebrated   for   their  wine   and 
cid.  r.    The  man  from  Iowa  says  "If  we  should 
find  in  Northern  China    or    Central  Africa  a 
body  of  men  afraid   to   allow  women  to  come 
within  speaking  distance — and  had  rules  that 
prohibited  conversation  among  themselves,  un- 
less the  head  man  gave  permission,  worked  at 
hard  labor  on  one  meal  a  day,  and  iu  thr.t  one 
meal  no  meat,  eggs,  butter  or  anything  else 
that  could  be  sold— well,  we  would  be  most 
likely  to    send  a  young    theological    student 
amongst   them  to   ask   them   to   change    the 
order  of  things  a  bit." 

Said  the  Colonel  to  the  man  from  Iowa,  in 
answer:  "Somebody  has  to  lead  an  austere  life 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  .,oq 

to  make  up  for  the  rest  of  tlio  world     Afn^t  „i. 

whom  do  ver^  IU„„  ;„  „„  .4^1';."    °''  "' 

Oka  ,8  worthy  a  special  trip.   Many  toarisU 

the  summit,  the  three  chapels,  l„   It  i„  174 
passing   on    the    way  up,  Ln\Z    ", /.^  ' 
built  at  intervals  along  the  stee,,  ro-.r  i 

-n,^ot.er  things   Of  LterestZ;'^ 
runnin"  1         ?  '"'  ^"^  ^"  '''^  afternoon.      V 

-  7th?r^'r;Taet  '"'■'■' ' 

Como, 

Oka  ^'"ft  T^'T  "^  "^"  "^•^''  «'•  r^^^ke  from 
Oka       It  IS  a  beautiful  summer  resort  -is  n 
also  Hudson  and  Hudson  Heights  on    .. 
Hide  further  up,  short  distanJi  ^'  r  m    ir;;;;: 
summer  home  of  Mr  I?  w  «.      ,      ?  ^'"' 

e.-.  manaBia,  ^i^t^r  „V  i'  rS;'.';..;"  V 
Navigatioa  Company  ''   "'"''■ 

after  nassinrr  fi  •         :  ""'"^''"^  ''"^  «^t  on.e 

«ii«i  passing  this  point. 

Pointe-aux-Anglais 

'.e'";„teU^^^e;:rt^trt:^^'^^^ 

eome  to  the  ,>oat  iaadia,  for'the't^^";'-!: 


A  C.iriadl 


•*.S'^'*^if!^, 


240 


;} 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
Bigaud, 


on  the  Rivifere-^-la-Graisse.  The  town  itself 
is  back  from  the  landing  about  one  mile.  Here 
is  the 

Bigaud  Mountain, 

with  its  legend.  I  had  often  heard  of  the 
"  Devil's  Garden,"  but  so  far  have  been  able  to 
keep  out  of  it  and  until  now  didn't  even  know 
where  it  was  located.  It  is  right  on  the  top 
plateau  of  this  beautiful  mountain,  and  ^s 
many  acres  in  extent.  I  don't  know  that  I 
can  better  explain  it  than  to  say  that  it  is  a 
level  plateau,  lying  deeply  covered  with  bould- 
er  stones. 

The  Legend  of  the  Devil's  Garden. 

This  legend  will  convey  a  still  better  concep- 
tion to  the  minds  of  the  farmer,  at  least,  than 
any   description.       "Once   upon   a   time,"    as 
legends  and  fairy  tales  begin,  a  giant  who  wns 
also  a  farmer  planted  a  great  field  in  pump- 
kins, he  was  a  real  wicked  farmer,  and  worked 
on  Sunday.    The  seeds  grew,  the  vines  spread, 
the  yellow  blossoms  came  out  in  great  profii- 
sion^  the  little  pumpkins  formed,  and  by  the 
end  of    the  season  had  so  covered    all    the 
ground  that  there  was  scarcely  room  for  the 
poor  struggling  vines.  The  farmer  worked  very 
hai-d,   laving    his    immense    crop    into   long 
straight  Vows  so  that    he    might  get  throu-h 
the  field.      At  last  he  was  rt^ady  to  gather  the 
«  fruit "  of  his  labor.      He         'd  all  the  other 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


241 

kin  Bee  »    They  rame  on  Sunday,  as  thev  too 
vast  field  but  wbat  was  tbeir  consternation  on 


-.  .    >«:<r«*i,%^p,„«^    .     ■...:,:■■.  flies^r:;- 

•iUJiE  AND  FITZ  GET  THK  STOKV  AND  THE  TELLEIL 

«|^ing  that  eve.ry  bb  „      pumpkin  bad  turned 
of  fbis  legend  m  don't  fail  to  see  the  tteld  of 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


stone  pumpkins    on     Rigaud    Mountain,  and 
don't  go  on  Sunday. 
At  12.20  the  boat  arrived  at 

Carillon - 

Now,  in   pronouncing   the   name,  don't   uae 
those  two  "  Is,"  if  you  do  you'll  pass  your  sta- 
tion sure.     Just  say  "  Carion  "  and  let  it  go  at 
that       It's   all   right  for  the   French   to   use 
those  unused  letters,  as  they  can  say  things  so 
quick,  then,  again,  they  have  lots  ««  /ime  for 
U  but  for  the  slow  going,  like  the  Colonel  and 
me,  they  do  seem  so  useless.  We  always  leave 
them  out,  and,  as  a'  result,  nobody  knows  what 
we're  talking  about.    But,  then  here  we  are  at 
"  Carion." 


MOU 


NT   nUOULLI   NEAR  POINT   ANOLAIS. 


Now,  my  dear  reader,  don't  think  for  a  mo- 
ment that  because  I  have  seemed  to  do  all  the 
talking  coming  along  that  there  was   no   one 
else  on  the  boat.      Not  so.      As  usual  I  met 
manv  people  of  interest:      One  young  man,  in 
particular,  who  had  joined  our  pai^y-we  got 
on  to  the  card  exchange,  shortly  after  leaving 
Ste.  Anne.      Imagine  my  surprise  on  seeing  on 
his-  "  Mr.  Howells  Frechette,"  but,  imagine  his 
surprise  when  I  drew  out  a  card  of  introduc- 
tiou     to   him,    from   hi.    un.le,    ^ym.    Dean 
Howells.  the  great  author.  The  world  is  small, 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


243 

reSd  O.^^  '^^t. hoped  to  meet  him  until  I 
readied  Ottawa— his  home. 

"Carillon"  means  chime  of  bells,  as  here  was 

one  of  the  first  chimes  in  the  country       S 

steamer  "Sovereign"  does  not  go  an/furth'^ 

built  across  ^ r.er;\n^dTn\h?m^dt^of  ^iH: 
a  chute  throngh  which  the  rafts  of  timber  Le 

which  are  again  brought  together  below  the 
rapids  and  towed  down  to  Lachine  and  thence 
to  Montreal  and  Quebec.  "^"^ute 

«iH^^T.u^  ^•''^''^^  P^«^'°e  up  along  the  north 
Side  of  the  river,  but  it  is  not  much  used. 
Big  Track  and  Little  Boad. 
Running    between    Carillon    and    Grenville 
further  up  the  river,  is  the  widest  track   an^' 
one  of  the  shortest  railroads  on  the  Sne" 
It   18   the   old   broad-guage   flve-feet   and   six 

xcdrei;  Th  '"'"  '?  ™"^«  ^^"^'-    ''  -  -ed 
exclusively  and  owned  by  the  Ottawa  River 

pasVfhe"  ""'""'-"^  '''  ^^^^^-«  P-«-«"- 
past  the  many  rapids  between  the  two  points 

told  F?t  T'r'^''  '""*  ^'^"'^  ''-'''''  ^  ''^'^e.  I 
told  Fitz  to  draw  it  to  let  you  see  the  mate  of 

the  one  that  drew  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  I8G0 
when  he  went  up  to  Ottawa  ovei   thi«  r  ver 
and  that  little  road.*  ' 

The  steamer  by  which  he  and  his  partv  went 
washed  for  him  "  Prince  of  Wales."      He 

[yourself.    It  s  not  hard,  though,  as  it'«  very 


Ml 


I  I 


244 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


went  out  from  Montreal  to  Ste.  Anne  by  tram, 
then  they  got  aboard,  came  to  Carillon— thence 
to  Grenville,  where  another  steamer  met  them 
and  they  went  on  to  the  Capital.      The  line 
steamer  "  Empress  "  now  meets  the  train  at 
Grenville.    We  went  up  no  further  than  Caril- 
lon as  we   wished  to   return  the   same  day. 
Young  Mr.  Frechette  who  has  passed  up  and 
down    the  river    many    times    said    that  the 
scenery  further  on  is  much  more   beautiful, 
especially    where   the   Laurentian    Mountains 
come  in  near  view  of  the  river.     Carillon  is  an- 
other of  tl.e  many  summer  resorts   along  the 
picturesqi .   Ottawa.      St.  Andrews   is   only  a 
short     dr-.e     from     Carillon.       I     have,     as 
usual,   given    but  a  running  sketch.      Some- 
how   to   do    justice    to   Canada's    beauty    Id 
have  to  write  a  volume  on  each  subject,  and, 
often  then,  but  barely  touch  the  subject,  for 
there  is  no  place  in  America  where  there  is  so 
much  of  real  good  old  time  material  with  a 
setting  of  the  picturesque  as  can  be  found  up 
here  in  the  Province  of  Quebec. 

On  the  way  back  the  scenery  looked  so  dif- 
ferent that  one  could  almost  have  said  it  was 
another  river.  I  had  never  before  noted  such 
a  change  in  the  two  ways  of  viewing  a  river. 

Fitz  Draws  Pictures. 
Fitz  Maurice  was  in  his  element.  He  was 
ever  finding  subjects  for  his  pencil.  If  y'»« 
should  be  wise  and  take  the  Ottawa  River  trip 
yon  will  sei^  on  the  way  faces  you  will  instant- 
ly recognize.  When  you  ^ci  on  hoard,  some  of 
the  faces  will  pass  before  you.      At  Ste.  Anne, 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
''Banana  ITary." 


245 


always  describe.       I„  IWaT  ',,,         ""'  ""* 

-.«ap,,..ee..e„n„/tsr.rti.";r 
0^;^:;'^::-::: --:-,:;» :--..; 

UMin  r  know  fluif '9    rku  ,  -^"u 

n  loss  tli..n  Jo  yenrs  will  be  used  aifain  buf  in 
a  far  vaster  wav  "  '•fe-"",  out  m 

abo'ir-fi  fi.«  u  cs  .  wiiarf    to    n-o 

•inodtu  the     Sovereign,"  for  the 


Shooting  of  the  Rapids. 


246 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


firm  of  Lanman  and  Kemp,  with  that 
M.  A.  A.  A.  entertainer,  Bob  Aitken,  who 
as  usual,  was  showing  the  beauties  of  Mont- 
real and  surroundings  to  a  pleased  customer 
of  his  firm.  I  could  overhear  Hears  telling 
Bob  about  just  having  tried  to  get  Big  John 
Canadian,  the  Caughnawaga  pilot,  to  take 
him  through  the  Rapids  in  a  row  boat,  and 
how  that  it  had  all  been  arranged  even  up  to 


The  Colonel  says:  "  Don't  tell  how  scared 
we  were  that  day.  ' 


the  tving  of  ropes  about  the  skiff  in  such  a 
way  as  that  should  it  upset,  they  could  catch 
the  ropes  and  be  pulled  through  alive.  All 
was  arranged  when  Big  John  stopped  short 
and  said:  "But  not  now,  water  heap  too  big  . 
and,  then,  Kemp  stopped  his  recital.  That  s 
all  I  could  hear  except  a  remark  of  Bobs 
which  near  cost  him  a  trip  through  the  Rapids 
without  even  a  rope.      Just  as  Kemp  stopped. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


247 


"Well,    Mean    hopes    after 


Bob   remarked 

all  !"• 

ward  wa,  crowded  wLftl'  l"'*"'  """'  "" 
J,  ""ucu  witn    tiie   new  comers   nil 

eager  for  the  exciting  trip  through  theXpid 

I  wonder  what  that  is  "'  "ipias. 

islLtrcaU"'"'"''"^"''"^-^'^''*'''*' 
"  Oh,  iook  !"  and  a  hundred  other  eiclam-, 
t.on,,  proving  that  a„  were  taking  the,>rt 

^aL'^;:e::uid^7',rrti;e^si;::^^ 
r-ht:rsr:rerjd4:5 

fary  title,  and  that  he  was  nothing  but TnTait 
citizen  with  "M.D."  attachments  ^ 

.a;ir«o't7n^rs?rh'u™xt;t-T 

r^nrd.    I?         ,""*'   "'^  •"■'"    "-iP  down  (he 
n?  „1       ,     "*•  '">»•"•«■■.  from  n>uch  research 
»^™aps,  history  and  having  "done"  LadZ'- 

ear'™*  1""°","  '■«'<'  "-ing  like  „„  Indian's 

£Crcir-u,d^t:?«-/- 
.r;„;rhi:,e':r '-•■--'■ --- 


The  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


almosteverypoint  of  interest.      We  went  80 

fast  that  I  had  to  talk  very  rapidlj. 
"Where  was  the 

Lachine  Massacre? 
.,a«o,  where  bow  t„e  t J.  »tra88te«    n  towar*^ 

1  rnn  Trnniiois  started  across,  on  the  nit"L  " 
v,?  IS      Thev  -ilently  landed  above  the 

•:on,™;e"    aod  as  ihe  night  «a.  very  .to™  . 
,„„  sa.vi»o„  did  dot  '■'""■.  7  .  J^^tsnarthe 

i,„  was  -''"ZXXn^^tZ^i  lu  know." 
"■"rrho':rsav!;r"«c.>ai™ed  the  pretty 

daughter.  pvovocation  would 

"No,  not  horrid,     ineii   \n  same" 

have    made  a  civilized    people  do  the  same, 

'"!*\^hy,  I  never  read  that  in  history  !"  she 

"%o,  most  historians  have  left  out  poor  Lo's 

"^rhere'lo  the  vi.ht.  near  the  bridge,  is 
C^.ughnawaga-the  village  of  the  pray-^'^- 
.Unt^       See   to  the  left,  through  the  trees,  is 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


2VJ 

the  louJwC  the   h  r  '"""''  '"  '™«  »' 
level  throngh  thL  h..   .1  "i""'  """"'  '»  "'e 
"  Ye.  K.  *     J  beautiful  elm  trees  "' 

"  Wen   thJ'f  ^''  ""'  'P"""  of  a  feu«  '" 
«aiirhlXt:,/^that  ^«?™"'<'  Old  U. 
those  ruins  just  at  th.  t  .  ".  '"'  "'  "'  »«>•« 

"  What  <"„:,■      !   "'**  "'  the  hill." 

mean  tha\a«Torwoufd't  ^°^'"^'  •'^•'"  ""-'t 
"oal  and  uae^t"?„7atL?'"  "  ""'"  ^  "«'»■ 

*ret  P0»S„"n":,t'rS:  T"  '/»'"'  '""■'-  *» 
jt  shouM  be,  one  „aT  b;"r:a":r!J  '""'  -'^^«-' 
t^-,.t  into  annhin^'  o^n:''!™:: T r™ ij 

do  it,"  and  the  kind  „,d  n!  .  '"'""""'"t  as  to 
«"y  feel  he  had  sus^^  '"*"'*<'  to  re- 

The  Southerner  is  f„,r„,  "  r*^™"'  "''»■•.>■• 
the  reason  of  he  l:!,'"",*™*"*-  This  is 
people.  '"*«t   character  of  that 

"I  notice, two  'intakes'  o. 
those  canal-like  water„!  ■™"  """  them, 

■eft  crossed  b/ tl::  Tr  f,er"  ^ ^%'»  '"" 

One  you  will  nntinJ  -  ^^^^'  ^^'^  ?" 

the  other^ellL  /m;;,;.'  '""''J  ^^''^^^  than 

made  much  wil/rlo  p  even^^^^  ^'.'^^  "- 

come  together  a  short  Jr.       '^'      ^^^  t^o 
bridges.  ^'*'^*  distance   beyond  the 

on\tlU\t^^.?,,S^^^^  the  left,  further 
the  rapids,  that  is  th/'e "  "'"^ '"'  ^"*  ^"to 
^^e    Montreal    or    ll^S^  Z^^^^^Z^ 


The  Waudcring  Yankee. 

which  li«ht»  Montreal.      Ba,  «ee  wc  are  now 
coming  to  the 

Baplds. 
which  you  will  notice  i.  divided  by  tho.e  two 
Sands       The  flrrt  and  stnallor  .« 
The  Devil's  Island, 

the  larger  one  ahead  is 

He  St.  Paul, 

;:„r;::.ru-and'xttrih';;. 


ST..   '■  SOVEUEIGS  "   SllOOTlNO  THE  KAPIDS. 

Ar    hut  here  I  stopped  for  the 
i-^'i.I-Trdte  M,:2 '•  and  the  excitement 

z:^  stopped  fj^i:::r:z-.j:,it 

body  was  .»t»"«"'R."P-;ft'Je  while  to  the  one 
"„e':rtru;r'-^ein.  dislodged,™. 

the  higher  view  P"'"*.  ^.^  ^  ,„<.k,  .ve'd  be 

"  "^  """"Tl   r      Bnt  X..«  this  time  we 

td'-jrertht.'.  tlfe"worst  ot  the  tossing 


The  Wanda-ins  Yankee. 


•Jo  I 

n.ri.r^''  ?'^  ^'^"  '^'''  t'''*^t  poor  little  tree 
r;?ht  eout  in  the  middle  of  the  stre- un  on 
;^.at  wee  island,  hardl,  big  enough """Jd 

pa'Ied'"'  '"  "'*""'  ""'^  ^-"-'<-^  it  as  we 

"How  long  have  steamboats    been  nini.m„ 
the  rapids  ?"  asked  the  Dr  ninu.ng 

^ '7^f  '  ^"*^"*'''  ^ftt^-'ds  called  the  'Lord 
Sydenham,'    was   the    ftv^t       if  V,  " 

1840."  't  ^^■''*^    tl't'n    in 

"  Does  the  Rapids  ever  freeze  over  '^" 

On  the  Colonel. 
How  fliat  last  wint<.i- 1„,  said  one  day  ■  "  I!„l„. 
xee  by  the  'Sta.-  tl.at  th..  LaH.ine  Ra„i,l        .' 
'T'"  "™"-'  '"'«  «'»t  li"'o  si„..o  1S37'      W 

«..d  «,e  Rapids  ;„i:;"„f;.^r„A:.:."  "■"■'"■""■"  •" 
w9r^;ru;:::::ixrr'-'-- 

Ilookedatitandthex-ewas.l.eitem,  snre 


V; 


: 


! 


252  The  Wandering  YanTicc. 

the  ftret  time  ">'<^«  If/'      [^^^  ^t  the  column 
of  the  paper,  it  was  l*?-'Xj^_*  mted  to  the 

'ronVeU%.e^o.o„twa^^^^^^ 
pay  the  expenses  of  the  trip 

1"™-"  .     +i,o  hnv       "  See  that  town 

We  ai-e  now  in  the  bay.         ^«= 

to  the  right?    That  is 

Laprairie, 
from  which  to    St.  Jobns   36   mile«  f  uth  of 
east,  ran  the  first  rai  road  m  Canada. 
"  How  wide  is  tue  river  here  . 


•ri 


THE  OLD   VICTORIA  BRIDGE. 


u  A  little  over  four  miles,  possibly  four  and 
\  ^f       It  narrows  down  from  Laprauie  to 
a  half.      It  nan  owes  where  it  begins 

Longueuil,  nine  ""  J«  ^^^^^^j"^  Maisonneuve, 
again  to  widen  as  ^^  fl^^f/p^nte-aux-Trem- 
Lougueuil,  Longue   ^^^f  J^^^^^rofMontreal 

bles  and  the  ej^f  ^^^^^^  f^^s,  on  the  right 
and  Boucherville  and  ^^^^^^"^  '  ^^,  ^^^ere  in 
bank.      That  long  island  to  the  leii, 

front,  is 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 
He  St.  Paul, 


2o.'I 


or  Nuns'  Island. 
"  Now  we  are  coming  to  the  givat 
Victoria  Bridge, 

eroc  ted    by  James    Hodges    from    designs  of 
Alexander  M.  Ross  and    Robert  SteZnson 
It  was  opened  in  18(50  bj  the  Prince  of  Wn?. 
now  King  Edward  Sev/nth.' '  I'^f;/ to  tc^ 


NEW    VICTORIA    HRIDGE. 

Trunk   on  McGiU  street.     Tins  bridge  Ins  but 
recently  been  finisln-d  ^  ^"* 

i«sr;^a^!::f^^^*^'^^^"*''-^'>^^^«^"dg'^ 

"  AVhat  railroad  crosses  it  '" 

"  The  Grand  Trunk  aad    the   Delaware  and 


mmm- 


The  'Vaudcring  Yankee. 


254 

Hudson,  but  it  wa8  built  for  and  is  owned  by 

the  foi-mer."  ^,        •,<..» 

"  See  that  low  lying  island  to  the  right  . 

That  is 

Moffatt's  Island, 

whei-e  the  stone  was  (luarried  for  the  original 

citj'." 

'•  That  island  you  see  ahead  is 

St.  Helen's  Island, 
a  recreation  ground  for  the  city-but,  he.-e, 
we   are  coming  in  to   Montreal   just   in   tune 
ladies  to  take  the   « 

Bichelleu  and  Ontario, 

boat  for  Quebec."  The  ladies  of  the  party 
went  on  to  the  Old  Capital,  while  the  Doctor 
remained  in  Mont.-eal.  Again  "  the  world  is 
small."  The  Doctor  proved  to  be  a  relative 
of  friends  of  the  writer.  Friends  met  in  Ule 
Virginia,"  in  the  eighties.  This  is  one  of  the 
joys  of  travel— the  coincidental  meetings. 

A  Canadian  Leonidas 

When  at  Carillon  one  instinctively  thinks 
of  Adam  Daulac-or  Dollard  des  Ormeaux 
and  his  brave  companions  who  fell  defending 

Ville-Marie.  ^       .     . 

The  Iroquois  had  threatened  to  exterminate 

all  in  the  new  settlement  on  the  Island  of 
the  Mountain.  Dollard,  a  newly  arrived 
French  officer,  very  young-in  his  early  twen- 
ties-collected a  baud  of   sixteen   colonists, 


■i1-i 


The  IVandiriug  Yankee. 


2oo 


gonquins  and  the  r.ni«K  ^  ,'  "*  ^''"^  ^^'- 
ehiof  A„a„„ta„„  tdt:  f„  ,  f^  o'„  °"T 
"  pomt  where  „„„  j,  cariHo."  ^  ne.  '""  '" 
I'ude  palisadpri  f»,.f  """"«•        Here  was  a 

"pon  tl,ein.        '"""''«''»  <•«»«  IwuiiuR  do»„ 

"wardships  and  in  T^L^  .""""  •""»  '-"ible 

Ironuoii^the  ?o  t  wa    tat™™';'  T'"  "'■  "■« 
lived— but  tlmir  !..■  •    i  ?•      ^o'  »  '""I  8ur. 

Marie.      L^e  ,„d°':  '»".'';»''  »»'<«'  ViHe. 

-ve«tee„  ^  'oaf ;:;"  ^  "'f  ^ : " 

w«»ld  a  town  fall  of  men  do  "     l„   '»'',"■''»' 

write  of  him  anrt  hi.  i!  j^'  *"«'  '"oved  to 
J  would  tl  rt  r  '"""'  "■  ">'"  ""de  heroic 

Wm  aid  them  "'TuT:'  !?*"'  ""^  '-''■-'•» 
'or  the  embr"o  of  A,,"^?""'!"""'"  ^^-P™"- 
thi,  noble  bo.^  and  W    corr^er'  Z"%  l' 

each  wauld  not  on  !  r-J^  'f^  ^'^^'^'^^  ^'^^ 

^tn'd%i:^5.r£~^^^^^ 

rename  the  gpot     '  ^'  ^"'•"^"  »*  monument  and 

o^h^r^tt^it^^^r r ^^  fr.y^  -'^ 

the  defense  was  made  Thi  •  '  "*^  ^^'•''" 
conclusion  sinL  the  rani  k"''  !^««"»«We 
PiUon   wonW  nX/         ^***'  begmninj?  at  Ca- 


256 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
THERMOPYLAE. 


walls,   oh   grey 


Ther- 


Around    thy    rugged 

Brave  to,  of  Greece,  thy  death  hath  heen 
Tho*rarrmanyaher.bo™toao. 

The  lone  defender  of  *^^^  °"*!f.p_  .^  the  spears 

ra^:t,tr::rraa-rMooi.h. 

Had    'e»'thy  deed  and   nerved  hi»  »ou.  t. 

^-tB^^e'^erjd':r::;-'' 

B„ept"down   the   glen,   bnt   ne'er   returned 

-iSe!;"trX«-.ar. 

ed  the  way. 

To«nMR«  the  Greecian  brave,  had  fought, 
Loonldas,  the  lire  m-gained, 

VerstrifeobaX  nerved  his  arm  to  do 
Ind  though  he  lost,  still  victory  had  won. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  £57 

In   far^^off,  j^o^thland,  where  Outais'  waters 
Where 'dir'  "T^^^^^  ^^  earv^d  stone, 

That  well  might  bear  the  name  Thermopylea. 
Here  where    the   Long   Soo's  waters  swiftly 

Brave  Daulae,  with  his  undaunted  band 
Met  foes  more  fierce  than  Persia's  seried  host 
And  m^ee^ng,  fought  as  men  ne'er  foug'hft' 

Days  followed  night's  in  each,  successive  turn 
'    'TZV''''''  '''  "^^^'^^  -"'^  -me 


'^^*'    'S!""""'    ^^"'"•^«''°'    of     Greek     to 
Filled  not  tile  hearts  of  this  intrepid  band 
rj.'\:;  ^'''^  '^^''  where^n^L. 

^"^^'away.'"'  ''"'*  ""'  ^'''"^^  "'^'^   ^opos 
The  brave  Ormeav  .ian  youth    to    save  a  city 

He  fough^t'  for  love,  for   love   he  fought  and 
Honour  to  him  who  ne'er  for  honour  .raved 

Rer"hi*h?h'"  7'°"^  '^'^^^  ^  p^"p'^  --<» 

«ear   high  the  stone  and   mark  thereon    the 
name — 

The    name  of  "Dollard"  .o    rich,  dcervtag 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


258 

Honour  to  ^hem  who  with  brave  ^oMavA  feU 
Carve  deep  their  names,  their  names  to  ages 

tell 

\lgonquins  bold  and  brave  lone  Huron   too, 
Whils?   others   fled    they  stood  with   Daulac 

true. 

The  rush  of  time  shall  quickly  melt  away- 
Years  seem  as  moments,  ages  but  a  day. 
None  Uve  for  time,  save  those  who  deed,  have 

-Save^those  who've  fought,  and  in  the  battle 

Heroic^Dollard  and  his  brave  comrades  fell, 
BurJalling  won,  'as  fleeting  time  shall  tell. 

Tell  to  the  world  as  time  of  Greek  hath  told 
Tel    of  his  deed-a  deed  the  world  shall  hold 
Brave  youth,  thy  life  was  all  too  short  on 

But   d'y^ng!'  thou    hast    left-great  deed  of 
worth. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


259 


This  charming  suburb  is  either  at  Bout  de 
r  .LNorBout  de   I'Isle  is  at  this  charming U 
uib.      I  have  not  quite  detemined  and  forgot 
to   ask,  but   I   think  either  is  correct  as  Ste 
de^l'lsi:.""  "'  ^'  *'^  ^^'^"^  -^  -  ^^"bou" 
I  would  like  to  translate  that  for  you   but 
transla  ion  often  mars.    Now,  when  /teli  yo. 
the  real  sound  of  these  French  words,  run  to 
gether  as  they  usually  run  words  together  up 
here  when  they  are  in  a  hurry  to  go  S  dTnneT 

them" "  t^r^Vn"'  *'"^  ''  ^"^  -Iniflcar  in 
applied  to  any  part  of  the  Island  of  Montreal 
for  there  is  not,  even  though  I've  heard  a  gr^at 
many  say  there  was,  but  you  know  "a  |rTat 

rtCn'r""^'^"*^^   '^'"'^  prayer  L" 
But  then  as  to  those  French  words.      Everv 
tirne^I  hear  them  said,  I  think  the  s,.akeMs 

"Boodle  He." 

and  my  mind  naturally  calls  up  the  wraith  of 
poor  old  Jakey  Sharp,  who  only  ran  a  sll 
Hhop  around  the  corner  when  compared  to  the 
business  done  on  the  block,  the.e  days. 

But,  then,  as   to   Ste.  Anne,  no    tourist   nr 
casual  visitor  .hould  come  toMontr^a"  with 


II 


260  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

out  spending  here  a  day  at  least  and jeeks  if 
possible,  for  in  a  radius  of  a  very  few  miles 
?here  is  more  of  interest  than  you  can  find   n 
any  spot  about  the  city.     You  know  how  it  is 
vou  often  get  circulars  from  some  interested 
Dlord  which  tell  you  of  his  wonderful  p  ace 
-the  only  "wonder"  is  that  he  could  get  so 
fa    from  the  facts,  as  you  find,  on  going  that 
he  has  done.     I  don't  pay  any  attention  to  the 
cirouTars.  I  And  out  from  those  who  had  been 
there,  or  go,  see  for  myself.  This  is  why  when 
that   live  up-to-date   landlord,  Mr.  Emery  La- 
onde,  sent  me  a  circular  about  Ste.  Anne  in 
general,  and  the  Clarendon  Hotel  in  Particular 
fsS;  threw  it  aside,  but  when  I  asked  an  ac- 
UaTntance  about  the  place,  he  said  with  much 
pmnhasis-   "'Ste.   Anne   de   Bellevue  ? '  why 
b'ss  you  man,  that  is  our  greatest  suburb  and 
if  you  go  away  from  Montreal  without  seeing 
ft  vou  will  make  a  mistake."     That  settled  it 
_-i  went  down  the  very  next  day. 

I  feel  now,  in  speaking  of  Ste.  Anne  like  the 
celebrated  gentleman  I  met  at''  f ^f ^.^f  ^'^ 
that  I  could  write  a  600-page  l>ook  on  this  old 
sDot  and  yet  have  the  courtesy  to  tell  you  of  it 
Zn  though  you  wouldn't  have  the  Pa«en.e  to 
read  my  work,  for  I  would  want  you  to  know 
of  the  beauty  of  Bout  de  I'Isle.  „  ,,^^„_ 

Rut  to  the  practical,  Ste.  Anne  de  Belleyue 
is  ttnty  mil'es  from  the  Windsor  Station 
You  pass  in  reaching  it  the  very  garden  oi  the 
IsLd.  The  wise  are  securing  the  l^nds  all 
along  he  way,  for  ere  long  they  will  be  o  very 
^S  value.  I  was  fortunate  in  meeting  a 
fr^nd  at  the  station,  J.  B.  Abbott,  the  son  of 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


261 

the  late  Sir  John  Abbott,  who  once  owned  the 
seat  Of   E.  S.    Clouston,    the  manager   of  ihl 

up  tie  Ottawa  and  around  Oka  point,  Bve  or 
811  miles  away  in  the  other. 

befwle??hV™:r'""  1°'^"'  "'  "■"  '»"<"  and 

LL       H.    ^  ."""''  "'  Mo-'-^al'^  best  citf 
zen«.      Here,  and   extending    up   three  mile. 

ratereon,  Forbes  Angus,  J.  b.  Allan  T  n 
Abbott,  A.  E.  Abbott,  John  J.  Gran,  R  t 
Heneker,  M.  J.  p.  Quin„,  k.C.  '         ^• 

We  reach  the  eosey  home  of  Mr.  Abbott  one 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  station       it's" ts 
high  to  the  right  back  from  the  road  overlook 
mg    he  country  for  many  miles.      Directly  on 
posite  and  on  a  part  of  the  original  grlnt  to 

Balsbrlant, 

long  the  country  seat  of  Sir  John  Abbott   is 
the    park-like    home    of     Mr     "  ' 


ton.      I    have  rarely 


seen 


E. 
more 


S.    Clous- 
beautifnl 


I 

fi 


262  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

grounds,  varied  by  rolling  and  level  stretcbes 
It  extends  from  tbe  mam  road  to  the 
east  and  is  bordered  on  the  west  by  the 
aforementioned  Lake  of  Two  Mountains.  The 
grass  lawns  are  like  velvet,  and  as  you  go 
down  the  well  kept  drive-way  you  catch  e^er 
and  anon  glimpses  through  the  trees  of  the 
'^ke  beyoni  It  is  on  this  property  where  are 
still  seen  the  ruins  of 

Fort  Senneville, 

built  a  short  while  before  1700      The  outlines 
are  well  marked  ^nd,  in  some  places  the  walls 
are  Ilmost  the  original  height  (12  feet).  It  was 
66  feet  square  facing  directly  south.      At  the 
southern  side  once  stood  a  house  about  20  feet 
wide,  one  and  a  half  stories,  and  extending  the 
7ull  ;idth  across.  At  each  of  the  four  corners 
and  outside,  but  adjoining,  was  a  t<»^J  «^ 
lookout.      Mr.  Clouston  has  the  grass  withm 
the  old  walls  kept  smoothly  cut  and  is  doing 
all  that  is  possible  to  keep  the  walls  m  their 
present  shape. 

The  WindmHl, 

on  the  hill  behind   his  house,he  has  roof ed  over 
making  a  fine  observatory,  while  the  inside  he 
has  converted  into  a  museum  of  Indian  relics 
If  the  landmarks  of  ;.ew  France  were  m  the 
hands  of  such  men  of  sentiment  as  Mr.  Clous^ 
ton,  they  would  long  remain  to  connect  the 

then  with  the  now.  +•       «# 

I  cannot   go  into  detail  of  the  ^^autieH   of 

this  northern  road,  but  had  to  go  back  to  the 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


263 

village,  the  principal  street  of  which  skirts  the 
Ottawa  passing  under  the  two  railroad  badges 
down  through  the  old  town       t\'  o^^ages 

WAV  fr.  +T.    >^i         ;  °*      ^^  Pa^'s  on  the 

way  to  the  Clarendon  Hotel  the 

The  House  of  Tom  Moore, 

or    rather,  where    he    stopped  when    here    in 

thick  vou  fiL  «    T'  ^"'^  *^"  ^^"«  ^«^  very 
tmck,  you  find  the  door  open,  step  inside  as  no 

one  ,s  m  sight,  and  feel  a  thrill  of  joy  to  think  - 

you  had  entered  the  door  through  which  had 

blank  smLs     fls'irrT"'  ^"^"^^  ^'^^^ 
cn«„4.  -  .  "^^'^  •      ^«  ""8    the    house  where  the 

still  maintained  that  it  was  "  Snnon  *  Vl"  '*'^ 
\h  I'll  +r„  „     •  capons     house. 

All,  I II  try  again  a  new  tack.    I'll  try  d-ifos  «n 

m  this  dwelling  in  the  yeur  A.  I).  1S04  ^" 

Snpon  :  Sap,.n  !.- with  much  empha'^i.. 
'^ee    I  'w^«  ^•^«V«<^'^'^  I  bog  youh  pah.lon,  I 
''eo    I    was    mistaken,    but    tell    nu'    n,-,v  \t 

apon  lived  here  then,  who  lives  i:;;;;i::;^'j' 
A    light   seemed    to    flash    upon    U.o    othor 
woman  and  she  said  :  ' 

"We,  we,"  I  was  sure  then  that  I  had  select 
od  the  wrong  house,  .ud  went  on  to  th.  n, 
rundon,  and  told  Lalonde  all  about  mv  miu 
take  but  was  surprised  to  have  him  sav  U.at  I 


264 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


.\i  I 


had  gone  to  the  right  house,  "  Why,"  said  I 
"  the  women  said,  "  Sapon,"  lived  there  in 
1804."  He  only  smiled  as  he  led  the  way  in  to 
dinner. 

I  do  so  often  get  the  wrong  information  up 
here.  It's  so  discouraging  when  I  try  so  hard 
to  give  you  all  the  facts. 

I  was  right.  It  was  the  Moore  House,  and 
I'm  going  to  give  you  the  picture  so  that  you 
will  know  it,  and  not  be  driven  off  by  any  of 
the  descendants  of  Old  Man  Sapon,  who  may 
claim  to  be  residing  there.  I'm  also  going  to 
give  you  the  famous  boat  song,  composed  by 
Moore  during  his  residence  in  Ste.  Anne.  He 
wrote  the  "  Woodpecker  "  while  staying  at  La- 
chine,  shortly  after.  It  is  a  rare  joy  to  even 
look  upon  the  objects  once  looked  upon  by 
that  sweet  poet.  "Here's  a  health  to  thee, 
Tom  Moore  !" 

This  is  but  a  hurried  glance,  and  I  have  told 
but  few  of  the  many  things  to  be  seen  in  this 
beautiful  resort  which  each  year  is  becoming 
more  and  more  known  to  our  people.    I  cannot 
but  wish  that  it  were  better  known.      For  the 
benefit  of  those  who  are  looking  for  a  charm- 
ing place  to  spend  a  few  weeks,  I  would  say 
that  board   there   is   so  very  reasonable  that 
one  might  pay  one's  fare  from  New  York  and 
save  money,  over  some  of  our  dull  seashores 
near  the  city.      I'm  not  "  booming  "  Ste.  Anne, 
but  doing  a  favor  to  my  countrymen,  in  saying 
what  I  do.      It  is  the  Thousand  Islands  or  the 
Adirondacks  without  the  expense. 


ENVIRONS  OF  STE.  ANNE  DE  BELLEVUE  AT  T,«,p 
TOM  MOORE  WAS  TH^  ^^  ^'™ 


Kai'ihs. 
Four  Skwkvm.m:. 


Ol.l'   \Vl\|iM||.|,. 


The  Moore  House. 


FOKT   Sen  NEVILLE. 


The  IVamicring  Yankee. 


265 


histoi 


'•<'   town.      Til 


Xnr;-;,,-'--"- 


ni.v  tiling,' 
went  into  a   luXV"  "  ,'"/"'^  "'"'"*  ^her..       j 

«I-aka.  I  eali  .oTm-  He  '';?^'rT'"^  -''^^ 
who  wa«  but  lift),  be ner  1  n  '"•'  ^^  ^"'" 
historic  interest  eve  oVn,,..  -"-^ '""*"' '^' 
villeriasked.     MV.aft,  '"    *'"■^'^''• 

veekr     -No  no     'J,    ^•'"' "'"'«  happen,  dis 

^f,  an,thin;r/;;'^/''T,n'  -^-7^'^''^'- 

'fl^'ht'— wee    wee        v.  '   ^   ''*'*^'   '   '''^♦'— 

--»<•  M,  Lriot  zeTotiio :;  ''''i!  ^^-"^  •- 

over  ze  hed-  b„t  M  **^  ^*^  ^**''i"  '"oke 

vaz  zent  to  ;e  hL pitaT'"  "'"  ''"'^^  ^^  ''"t^'^' 
^els  ,ou  ze  hisfoZ  ^  ^cVT:  ^^^f  --'  he 

I  finally  found  In   ^V;^'      ''''"''  ^^''  '" 
dealer  and  live  b.is^'n  '  ^'""''"''^  "'^  '"'"her 

was  verv  kind  nTf  '"'""  *^^  *''^  *"^"-  Ho 
house,  LZ\Z^^:r''  "'^'  *^'^  '>'^^  «^'>"e 
where  the  Imper hi  offl  '''"'""  '^^  *'^^'  ^•»^", 
1837.      The  troon«  .r        ;'  "^'"''^  ^"artered  in 

bridge  over  to  BTdrP^^^^^^^     T  ""'^  "'^-^^- 
of  the  brid^P   in.;        Ph)uff(s  at  the  other  end 

Further  up  t]w  Baok  Riv,.,   h„t  „ 
"«  o,ag„i«ee„t  s„m,„er  hoVe^'^/Ir'^T-"" 

The  Inner  Circle 
Of  >f0J  .real's  "400"     Ti,« 

8      400.      They  extend  all  along 


1 


ip^f' 


^^^y«ij 


266 


The  U'amkring  Yankee 


and  facing  tlo  river,  which  is  very  picturesque 
at  this  point.  Here  are  Hugh  Paton,  James  C. 
King,  Thos.  Sonne,  R.A.B.  Hart,  H.  B.  McDou- 
gall  B.  McLennan,  the  Ogilvies,  J.  Gillespie, 
Angus  R.  Hooper,  Dr.  Charles  McEachran,  Dr. 
Jas.  Bell,  and  T.  D.  Bell. 

Rube  Meets  a  Party  of  Nuns  and  Children. 
Somehow  I   often  fall  into  pleaHures  unex- 
pectedly.    One  day,  while  passing  St.  Laurent 
the  car  stopped  at   a  street,    near    a    large 
school    and    convent,    and    a    great    church, 
to    the    right    only    a    short    distame     ba  k 
of   the   mountain.    *A  number   of   nuns,  with 
perhaps    fifty  little    girls,    from    the    school, 
.luicklv  filled  the  car.    I  was  soon  in  my  ele- 
ment, \alking  with  the  children.      They  were 
remarkably  bright,  and  filled  full  of  the  picn  • 
they  were  going  to  have  down  there  at  Bat. 
Kiver     The  Nuns  were  very  kind  to  them,  and 
in  no  way  tried  to  curb  their  innocent  pleasure. 
They  talked  to  me  freely,  for  children  quickly 
Vnow  who  loves  them.     As  we  flew  along,  I  got 
from  many  of  them,  sweet  little  life  st^iries 
One  poor  little  girl  had  lost  a  hand,  and  told 
me  how  that  a  bad  boy  had  pushed  her  down 
and  a  passing  car  had  run  over  it,  and  yet  she 
vas  the  happiest  of  the  lot.     1  could  not  but 
note  the  sweet,  gentle  care  the  Nuns  showed 
towards  them.     1  have  never  seen  those  chil- 
dren  since;  but    he  real  joy  of  that  short  while 
with  vhem  is  a  sweet  memory. 

Three  Grocery  Stores  and  a  Post  Office. 
It  was  not  worth  the  timo.  but  we  went  out 
anyhow  in  hopes  that  we  might  find  it  so.      I 


The  IVamU 


i'nng  Vaiikcc.  2(i7 

n^tiTrl'J^r  '""'^  "^"^''^  ^^^'^'•''  because 
that  IS  not  Its  name,  whicl.  is  spelled  "  Sault- 

au-Reeollet,"  and    pronounced    "Sur-ek-Clay " 

i«  often  a  surprise  to  jjo  Jnuitins  about 
for  things  worth  seeing,  to  ».,  et  Z 
^•th  no  sentiment  whatever.  We  asked  of  a 
man  standing  at  the  station,  after  kl  tLll.  the 

h[s  town  '""\r"'"^'  '''  "^^^'-'^^^  *«  -«  >» 
this  town  /         (>!,,  ves,  this  is  quite  a  plaee.   It 

has    three   grocery  stoit^H    and    a    po  t-offic/" 

which  reminds  me  that  when  we  c  une  t"  he 

Pos  ;offi,.c    I  asked    the    postmaster,  wlio        t 

'y^uling  a  paper  in  front  of  his  door    MNl  ^ 

;""»-H.  is    that    across    the  street^"'    ..,)at 

po.n  ,ng)  why,  dat  1.  ours!"     W.  thanked  hi  n" 

L  so  UL-    ?:'""'""  ""^'  ^'^'"^  «^*"-  ^-  ---  it.   I 
m  so  hko  the  great  St.  Anne  de  H.aupre.  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  holow  Quebec,  that  it  miL-ht 

portant-looking    ..h.ri.al  man  in  the    yard     of 
wbom  we  made  in^.i.,- ,.«  to  the  things  of  nte 
est  to  be   onnd.     Fie  said  it  was  an  historic    Id 
town  and  that  he  1  .d  written  .  vm  imge  b. 

h      toad„„Mhatn.adno^^ 
nd  lef    us.     I  tried  to  explain  thai   I  woul 
>OK.n  at  once  to  learn  Fren.-h.  that  I  nig      U 
•  >lo  to  read  his  book,  but  he  walkcnl  on      ,  hiid 

we :'  "•'  ^'.'"^  ""^  '•"""""  -•>"^' ' 

AS    we     were     r.Muing     awav.      «,«     Haw    i 
doctors     Hign.     and     stopjK.I      ,„     ..^  Dr 
M    iVlIetier.     Now  see  how  n.uel,  of  the  out  of 
t"e  ordinary  one  may  run  a.ross  by  not  l^ing 


The  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


i^ 


26R 

;l."d  i;,v-....v  Krandfa.l,.r  in  IKM-    O-  "'  »" 
haw  lived  here  ever  Hince. ' 

ALBERT  EDWARD  (PRIN^  E  OF  WALES.) 

A«  I  j,o  about  fue  .-ity  or  on  wy  ^'^.•"'^^J 
i,to  the'eountrv.  I  am  very  f  en  .^nnnded  of 
"  when  the  I'rinee  wan  here.        Tht      i  .  me 
ever  mean«  the  present  Kin,,  who   a«      ^.n  e 
H,.H    nnerowned  by  hand  of  man.  but    in     he 
heart,  of  his  loyal  subje.-t.  no  ^Z^^f  nZ 
wan  ever  more  loved  than  he.       fo-daj,  (•  une 
on    IMVi)  wa«  set  apart    for    his  ''oronatu,n 
iie  whde  world  had  waited  that  «reat  esent 
L  no  event  in  history  had  ever  l^^'^"  «^'"^^; 
The"  British  Empire  is  at  p(>a.e;  the  Boer  ^^  a 
::::  Untly  beVn  ..tied  ''f  terms ^rant^^ 
that  never  before  were  granted  to  a  dcftntti 
X,^.mn,inK  enemies  into  loya^-^^^^ 
li.o  Vinnire  bv  reason  of  that  wai   has  n«tu 
.     Jnted    nt     a  bond  of    more  than  that  of 
;;;;::;;'  union-that     of    lunjrt     .u^n^^^^^^^^^^ 
.roHiH'ritv     reigns    throughout     the     »  «y'^^ 
rZ"      and  her  l»rovin<'es;  and  never  be  ore 
J    Jo  o  a    on  held  under  skies  so  propnjous 
rrthn    of  to-dav  promised,  but  the  hand  that 
nles  mightier  Enl,ires  willed  otherw.se,  and, 


The  IVandi 


'critics;  Vaiikcc. 


2G9 


to-dai 


»y,  a  strkkon  iK'oplo  watrh  with  hated 
b.eath  for  news  from  tho  si.k  .hr.nbor  of 
their  loved  Kinjf. 

The  inauife«ted  sympathy  of  the  pooph^  of 
'anada  when  our  beloved  M.-Kinl.-v  lav 
Htru-ken  unto  death,  wa8  so  heartfelt  that  it 
proved  that  we  are  but  one  p.^ople,  and  that 
n  affee  lon  no  hncs  divide  us.  an<l  now  tha^ 
tbe„.  ruler'H  lifo  han^^s  in  the  halan.-e,  I  f.,.,  „ 
doep  sympathy  that  words  .annot  exp.vss-' 


The  Princk  — I,s«jo. 
svinpathy   never   before   feM    for  the   ruhr  of 
nnoflHM-    nation.        V,.a.  we    are    |„.t    one    in 
heart,  fhou^'h  lim-s  i^lithal  separate  us. 

When  King  was  Prince. 
Tn    the    summer  of  isdo.  wlu-n    I'rin.v 

Ic'tt  KuirUnul  July  mU,  and  rea.hed  S..  John. 
VH..  on  the  -ird  of  fhaf  UMuUh.  His  wav 
^•om  there  to  Montreal.  whiH.  he  rea.hed  on 
«a<nrday,    AuKr„Hr    LT.th,   was    on.-    series    of 


Kd- 
He 


I 


i* 


m 


v. 


270 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


K'rand  ovations,  but  how  one  so  young  could 
have  kept  health  and  spirits  under  the  fire  of 
addresses,  in  season  and  out,  that  lie  had  to 
endure  is  to  me  the  raoi-t  remarkable  feature 
of  that  long  tour— but,  then,  as  the  ones  who 
made  the  addresses,  in  many  cases  never  did 
anything  else  of  note,  during  their  lives,  the 
Prince  did  well  to  allow  that  one  honor. 

I  do  not  mean  to  rewrite  his  tour,  hut 
<asually  mention  in^slances  here  and  there  of 
his  stay  in  Monti-eal. 

He  occupied,  dur'  .g  his  stay,  the  house  of 
Hon.  ,lohn  Rose,  the  Commissioner  of  Public 
Works.     This  house  is  now  th'  home  of  r>Irs. 
W.  W.  Ogilvie,  and  is  situattnl  at  the  head  of 
Simpson  street,  cxteudiug  through    to    Ked- 
]>ath.      It  was  then  as  now  a  beautiful  park- 
like lionu'.  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.      The 
vast  ball  room  built  expressly  for  the  occa- 
sion, was  situated  in  the  block  between  Peel 
and    Stanley  streets,  and    running    from   Ht. 
Catherine  to  Sherbrooke.    The  main  entrance 
was  where  Burnsides  now  runs  tlirough— this 
part    of   the  city  being  then   in    the   eonntry. 
Tlie    ball    room  covered  ^<2,(MK^  square   feet— 
nearly  two  acjvs  of  ground, 

I  wonder  if  any  of  tiie  ladies  are  living  in 
Montreal,  now.  who  were,  on  that  occasion, 
iMfUored  by  the  Prince.  Here  are  I  lie  nanu's 
of  those  with  whom  he  danced  :  *'  Miss  l>e- 
lisle,  Miss  Hervante,  Lady  .Vilne.  Miss  Napier. 
Mrs.  King,  Miss  K.  Smith,  Miss  Tyne.  Mrs.  F. 
P.rown,  Miss  Leach.  Miss  Fisher,  ol  Halifax; 
Miss  Slcotte.  Miss  De  Kocheblave,  Mrs.  C. 
Freer.  .Mis.^  Lauta  -lohnson,  Miss  Hetson. 
Miss  Napier,  la  second  time)  Miss  King,  Mrs. 


mh 


The  JVatidirhig  ranker. 


271 

-"rs.  d.  h.  Macdonald. 
He  opened  the 


and  the  great 


Crystal  Palace 


Victoria  Bridge, 


—Jtli,   1800 — the  Palace    in     tu..   t  '  '^' 

^1-  Bridge  in  the  X;;,L'"  '^^^^^^^^^^ 

I  have  already  spoken    of    hi.  visit  t«»  Si,- 
Wg.^8in.pson,  on  the  island  o/C^^ 
J-ilve    ht.  Louis,  above    Lachine,  and    of    hi. 
Journ(.y  „p  th,.  Ottawa  River 

tUf   I  03  the  same  genial  air  that  has  nin-ko.i 
lns^.J^araeter  up  Hu.ongh  life  to  til      h  o^^^^^^^^^ 
There  IS  always  a  eharn.  about 

The  Boy  Life  of  Great  Men. 

<  1  1   ri".  I,.   „)„„  i„„|,  „„.  („.„      . 

-hamon,  ,„.n,n,,,»  „  „„„>,„^„:;„  ;,,„:^'. 
„       *'"     '■""»ln,..lm„;     wl„.„     ,. a,,,,!,,:,, 

II.'  >„  l,f,.  .■o,„l,.u,.|,.,]  (l,,.  l„.i,,g,,  „(  ,.„       .' 

III.,  «.T.w«  ti„.  Mi««i», Kiv,,,.  ,vi;.,   ,;' 


272 


The  Waudcring  Yankee. 


father,  "  I  used  often  to  go  down  of  a  morn- 
ing with  him.  I  was  then  about  six  or  seven 
years  old.  One  morning  I  carried  with  me  a 
prettily  dressed  doll.  When  we  reached  the 
Palace,  Prince  Albert  Consort  was  there, 
looking  at  the  work  when  we  came.  Little 
Prince  Edward  was  with  him. 


Prince  Wanted  the  Doll. 

Father  and  Prince  Albert  went  into  the 
bulMing,  leaving  Edward  and  me  together. 
Wc  were  nearly  the  same  age,  I  being  a  few 
luonthx  the  elder.  The  minute  we  were  alone, 
and  tlw  i'rince  saw  my  doll  he  made  one 
reach  for  it,  I  hung  on — as  I  was  much  at- 
tached to  it,  or  had  been  till  he  got  hold  of  it. 
I  was  no  match  W  him,  and  made  up  for 
weakness  in  arm  by  strength  of  lungs. 
Fatlier  and  the  Prince  <V>n8ort  came  running 
out,  thinking  the  front  wall  had  fallen  on  me, 
by  the  noise  I  was  making,  and  asked  the 
cause  »f  it  all  1  '  He's  got  my  pretty  doll— 
and  won't  give  it  to  me,'  said  f.  l)etween 
howls.  The  '  ue  who  was  one  of  the  love- 
liest characi'  i.s  t  ever  saw,  said  to  me,  sooth- 
ingly '  Come,  iiiv  little  man.  take  this  and  bay 
a  new  doll,  and  let  Eddie  have  the  old  oi.e,' 
and,  at  that,  he  j»nt  into  my  hand  a  gold  sov- 
ereign. I  was  again  happy.  On  the  way 
home  father  bought  me  another  doll — but  he 
didn't  use  all  the  sovereign  1" 

This  i)oor  paper  seller,  without  any  of  his 
fathers  ability,  has  had  a  hard  struggle  in 
life.  He  has  tried  many  things  but  failed  in 
them  all.  and  now  ekes  out,  as  Ix'st  he  <an,  an 
existence.  He  wears  a  medal  for  Fenian  raid 
(t8(it>)  service. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


273 


SajuenaB   ^tip. 


The  Crowning  Trip  of  All! 

fail8  to  go  on  to  the  SuKuenav  River   swiuiT 
ing  round  the  circle  from  Qu^be,-  to  Quei^*: 
returns   home    without    neeing   what    he   hTii' 
evor  regret,  when  told  of  the  real  beau  ie.o 
that  trip.     *'Tol(l  of  itvv      v^  t-au  lus  or 

of  it  '    \v^  1  „  ^*^'  "°  *^"^  *'»"  tell 

nin  I  ^)^^-*^"^'  «»  *"ed,  but  our  storv  when 
placed  along  side  of.  the  real,  will  ever  sec' m 
Imt^a  sad  effort.  It  i.  now  n.ontl.H  since  I  ^.w 

Weird  Biver, 
but  a  feeling  of  cont.'nted  pleasure,_if  I  „,av 
tilint  f  :'/  ^'"-^'-''^^^^^  «ver  m<.  wlH^n.ner  "l 
Mel  bv  ''^^':^''-^«  "1'  ''>  '^ake  St.  .n,„„  and 
hack  bv  the  Saguenav.  \M.i|,.  visiting  the 
s<'Jiools  at  home,  telling  the  children  of 

The  Beauties  of  Canada, 
I  waH  almost  sad  t<,  note  that  few  or  n<uu.  of 
them  had  ever  heard  uf  that    co„«nv  and  river. 
Many  had  gone  to  Europe  t.,  visit  an.o„g  r|„. 
akes    of    Switzerland-had    g.ue    down     the 
Kh.ne-hud    seen   the  ••  lieautiful    IJl,,..   [)a„. 
"b•^     and    had    looked  upon  the  snow  <ap,K.d 
Alps,  but  when  told  of  the 

Picturesque  Sagnenay, 
thev  seemed  to    be  hearing    of   a    n<.w  world 


If** 


274 


The  U'amhring  Yankee. 


i 


scene,  and  to  me  it  was   a  scene   I   had  not 
thought  existed  in  even  a  new  world. 

Th(?  Sagnenay  seems  a  great  chasm  cut 
through  the  mountains,  and  filled  with  water 
—many  places  2,000  feet  deep,  and  looking  up 


TUIMTY    UOf'K. 

again  in  other  places  you  find  the  mountain 
bank  rising  straight  up  nearly  2,00(»  feet  high. 
See  thin  picture— note  tlie  trees  on  the  moun- 
tain side  and  compare  them  to  the  height  of 
those  vast  rocks.      I  tried  to  describe  in  *'  The 


\U    ■ 


.^;f.Tf 


The  IVamicring  Yankee. 


>ankee  m  Quebec,"  the  strangeness  of  seeni- 

ng  distance.      The  boat  n.oves  in  so  close  to 

the  rockj.  walls  that  one  f.-els  that  one  «VCt 

alls    but  n'n"'  »"'""•  "  '""■■""•■  "«■"»"  <■■» 

:/it;i^irs:.;r'r.,rttr,;;;? 

Bube  and  the  Colonel  off  for  the  Saguenay. 
nef  l!."J  "*''"^!?  *^^"  *•'"  ^'-^'^  "^''''"'  ♦»><'  ^'olo- 

-"mn?  .n    '^.''"  ''''"^  ""'  busj-,.o,n(s  join  ns 
binW     '   ^^  1°^'  ^'"^  "^*  I*'^'«^^'^  '^'-'^^v  o„  ,„v 

guide       '  ^"'''"'   ""^^''     ^"^    t'^   ^»^t   as 

"Well,  Colonel,  are  you  readv  ?" 
-  les   and    by  the  way,  Kube",  there's  a  V,t 

book  td  of ;;  /•  ''"•^'  ^'^^^"  ''^'^"'^  «f  > -"• 

Dook  and  of  the  fun  you  had  last  fall,  an(   aie 
bood_If  I  can    be  the  humble    means  of 

P^fo!     T"''f'"^^^^^'-'•''>-•^-'- 
l'.«ld  for  writing  of  what    I    see."       And  th-.t 

;va8  true.       I  do  love    to    be    the  medi .,.  o 

•^^a«"re-and  I  know  no  better  wav 

hunt  out  beauty  spots  and  send  people  to  s- 

WM„,  and  they  may  depend  that  I    von't  te  I 

tlH'in  what  would    be  a  waste   of    time    a, 

money  to  visit.      I'm  going,  on  mv    "  urn    o 

Montreal,  up  the  St.  Lawren.e,  and  see    ?  al, 

ui  as'^i.?":';;  "'-"^ ""' '''-''  '^'^^  -  -  ^^^^^^ 

lul  as  they  tell  me  it  is. 
"  Say,  Rube,  stop  talking  to  yourself,  and 


f!^ 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


|i 


3 


276 

eome  on.     I  pcomised  to  be  at  the  boat  at  G.30 
to    see    after   my    friends    and    it's     now    B 

o'clock  " 

^'  Oh!  don't  be    in   such   a   hurry,  the    boat 
don't  leave  till  7.      Ov    would  think  you  had 

A  Dozen  School  Marms, 

to  look  after  !" 

"  Well,  there  are  nearly  that  many  . 
I  thought  he  was  joking  but  bless  you  he 
was  right.      There  were  ten  of  them  with  a 
school  superintendent    and    his  wife  to  keep 
those  jollv  teachers  within  bounds. 

I'm  very  timid  when  ladies  are  around. 
When  I  saw,  in  the  distance,  on  the  wharf, 
what  the  Colonel  called  "his  friends,"  I  stop- 
ped short  and  a^ked:  -Say-where  did  you 
find  'em  ?      I'm  going  to  run  I" 

''I  didn't  find  'em-by  the  help  of  the 
superintendent  they  found  me.  Now,  don  t 
run  too  soon-they're  a  jolly  lot-very  smart, 
in  evervthing  but  geography,  history  and  ice, 
— whv,'they  wanted  to  know  of  me  to-day 
how  far  above  Montreal,  Canada  ran,  and  if 
vou  could  see  the  line  from  the  mountain. 
"  Yes,  and  what   did  you    say  ?"  encourag- 

*°?'  Well  as  I  didn't  know  myself  just  whei-e 
it  runs  I  non-committally  pointed  to  a  Jme  of 
mountains  far  t.>  the  north,  and  said  See 
thai  high  range  ?  Well,  the  line  is  north  of 
that  vet  '•  'Oh,  givJf  Mhoy  ••all  each  other 
'cnls')  Hee.  see,  th.  Lionel  says  Canada  runs 
further  north  than  that  range  of  mountains, 
aud    «av     CuloneL-we've   been   looking  rrrry 


The  lyandcriiig  Yank 


cc 


:in 


whore  for  that  Iw  Palace,  «.»'v,.  road  of  for 

just  wild  to  see  it." 

As  I  didn't  know  myself,  yet  didn't  want  lo 
appear  ignorant,  1  said  I  feared  thev  oouhln't 
see  It  now  as  it  had    I.  ,n  put   awav  in   .old 
storage,  packed  up  with    moth    balls  for  the 
snmmer.     "  So  sorry,  we  did  want  to  see  that 
I<e  lalaoe  so  much.      We  have  heard  it  was 
^0  beautiful  when  illuminated.      i'.n  so  disap- 
pointed, aurt  we,  girls  !"      -  Yes,  yes,  but  they 
may  have  it  out  by  the  time  we  get  back  from 
the  Saguenay,  which  the  Colonel  tells  us  is  so 
groat  a  river." 

^' Comes  now,  Rube,  brace  up  and  mee^ 
tiiom.  Just  then  we  came  in  full  view  of  the 
waiting  '  Teachers'  Institute.'  " 

''  Oh,  Colonel,  we  were  afraid  vou  were  not 
fommg  in  time  for  the  boat.  Here,  introduce 
us  to  your  friend  "—as  an  aside. 

Bube  is  Introduced, 
And  the  Colonel,  without  looking  at  anv  one 

friend.  Rube,  allow  me  to  present  vou  to  thi 
Misses  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimo i' 
JNashington,  New  Orlc^ans,  '  Cincinnati,  ^t' 
Louis,  owa,  San  Francisco  and  Chh-ago.  And 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Boston."  By  this  time,  I  felt  I 
too    was  in  ••  Cold  Storage,"  but  th(^   Doctor 

LT.^  T  *''"*  *''^*  superintendent  was 
called  Doctor  -  D.S.,"--Doctor  of  Schools.  I 
H-as  delighted  to  know  that  thoy-Schools- 
at  last  had  a  do,-tor,  some  of  them  'od  one) 
eame  to  my  rescue  and  explained  that  he  had 
advertised  to  take    on    a    Canadian  tour  one 


if    I: 


11:1- 


Miaoconr  resmution  test  chart 

(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2) 


/jPPLIED  IfVMGE    li 


nc 


lejJ  Cost   Main  Stmt 

Rochmt«f.    Men    York  1*609        USA 

(716)  482  -  0300  -  Phon. 

(718)  2S8  -  ^989  -  ro« 


278 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


W' 


' 

J      m..  1 

t 

; 

:  ir 

teacher  from  each  of  ten  largo  cities,  and  that 
out  of  four  thousand  and  seven  applications 
had  selected  those  ten  who  are  to  be  known 
only  by  the  names  of  the  cities  and  state  they 
represent.  . 

"Great  scheme,  Doctor!"  I  exclaimed. 
'-  Who'd  ever  thought  of  such  a  thing  but  a 
Boston  man  !"  That  won  the  Doctor,  and  he 
was  my  friend  at  once— Nothing  makes  a  Bos- 
ton man  so  happy  as  to  make  him  think  you 
think  he's  "  It." 

All  Aboard! 
It  was  nearly  7  o'clock  and  we  went  aboard. 
"  Oh,  girls,"  said  Miss  St.  Louis,  "  they  have 
regular  steamboats  up  here.  Why,  we  haven't 
one  on  the  river  that  would  comiKire  with  this 
one.  I  must  make  a  note  of  it."  And  out 
came  her  book,—  and  down  went  the  name 
"Carolina,"  and  "Captain  Riverin.' 

I  haven't  the  space  to  tel'  you  a  hundredth 
i,art  of  the  (piestious  they  asked  or  to  note 
their  "  Ob,  looks  I"     "  Isn't    that    beautiful  I" 

etc. 

"  Whv,"  said  Miss  Iowa,  "  they  have  towns 
all  the'wav  along,"  as  we  passed  Longueuil, 
Bouchervil'le  and  Varennew,  to  the  right,  and 
^laisonneuve,  Longue  Pointe,  I'ointe-aux- 
Trembles  and  Bout  do  I'Isle,  to  the  left,  all 
passed  before  reaching  the  end  of  Montreal 

Island. 

"  And  "  said  1.  ''  ca<*h  one  has  uu)re  history 
connected    with   it    than   many  of   our   great 

cities." 

She  Wanted  to  take  "Long  Gay." 
"  Oil.  I  wish  thev'd  stop  the  boat  till  I  could 
take    that  town,"'  (as  we    passed    Longueuil) 


The  IVandcrhig  Yankee.  079 

said    Miss    Chicago,  who  soenuHl    to    hnv    n 

bu.m^,  desire  to  ^.  take 'NM-enthin^a'siUr 
ihat  town,"  sad  I,  -Ik,^    ,«  f.^.  k.  i 

fncd    It    that  year,  but  faihMl.     Ko.ne    Vm.M-i 

;ns  were  in  elaar,.,.  at  the  ti.ne      ut  ,lil  r 

l.ke    l.e  society  and  left  sho.-.lv  a fte         ThVt 

was  be  ore  a  friend  of  nu„<^  was  rnmin..  the 

social  cinle  of  the  place  "  "innin«  the 

J^.r  T  ""!*  ''"  ^'"  "I*J"*''  *'"'•'-  ^vat.hinj.  the 
^  Mt    ronnd    moon    con.inj,    up,  silvering   i 

Sorel. 
at  10  o'clock. 

'^  Yes,"  said  I,  "this  is  where   jhe   Riclu'heu 
River  enipt  es    into    tli,.    <t    \  . 


the  outlet    of    Lake  Ch; 


was  once  called  William  He 


•  "•plain.      This   pla 


Henr 


.vs  '    became    so    nu 


»>-.v,  but  'Willia 


tlu'v    found 


it  <'asier  (<>  ,1 


the  place  than  the  peoi)l 


ce 

m 

•••erous   in    towu    (hat 

ine  of 


lange    the   na 


^oi-td  '  for  short.       It 
liam    the    Fourth,    wl 


IH'ople;  so    the.v  called    if 


visited  here.     This  { 


was    called  aft,-r  Wil- 
•0,  when    in    th 


cc 


own  stands  on  tl 
.Vs  (Kidrn  fort,  and    used 


de  Tra 

Hummer  residence    of    fiie  ( 
nada.'' 


<•    navy. 

le  site  of 

to    1„.    fi„. 


toveinors    of    (" 


Wh 


I'n  we  jrot  well  int( 


Lake  St.  Peter 


I  noticed  that  Miss  WashiuKt 
"•K    nnu-h    concerned    about 
linally  asked  "  Pard 


»»  nie,  .Mr.  Huben.  i 


on  was  becom 

something,  ami, 

Mii  tell 


t 

•i 

i 

I 

i 

] 

li 

; 

1 

■ 

H 

H*: 


280  7^/'^'  iraiidcrhig  Vaukcc. 

mo,  is  this  the  AllaDtic  Ocean  ?  I  didn't  oome 
prepared  for  an  Ocean  voyage 

'•No,  this  is  only  a  lake-lake  ^t.  re  ^  ' 
"^Vl;at  a  strange  idea  of  l"'ving  then  lakes 
right  in  the  river.     I  never,  u.ver  did  see  su  h 
a    conntry    anyhow  !      Ib    it    customary,  Mi. 
Knhen   or  is  this  the  exception  .' 

You  see,  it's  this  way,  Mi.«  Washington, 
ra..aa  is  so  full  of  lakes  /hat  in  many  n^ 
simces  thev  havii't  room  for  them  on  the 
;lnd:;::>lUl-e  just  dropped  n^eminto^^^ 

,iver  wherever  it  happened,  and  this  one  i^ 
the  one  that  happened  in  this  lo^"^'^*^-  ,  ^,,  ,  . 
-  Well,  well,  but  isn't  it  a  large  one  though. 
I  must  tell  my  class  all  about  the  phenomen- 
on."     And  she  n^ide  a  lu.te  of  it. 
"How  Deep  is  this  UiverP" 

asked  Miss  St.  Louis. 

-It   is   now   twenty  sev.'n   and   a   halt   f^e 
deep    but    the  r.<»vernment    intend   making   li 
;;;,';;,  U.       rp  to  ism.  eleven   feet  was  the 

'""'what  was  the  dale  .»f  the  tirst  steamboat 

^"^S;*Molsou.  who  is  called  the   fathei- of 
s.eam  navigation  on  the  St   ^^f  ^'y'  ;  "    ^^^ 
..Ac.-ommodation"  from  Montreal  to  Q  u    ec 
in  IHOO,  and  here  is  s.»nu'thing  1  warrant  that 
:U'     on.  Doctor,  had    never  ^-f<- .^  -;^: 
The  •  Hoval  William.'  built  in  MontreaMl8-9 
AHm  was  the  first  vess.'l   that  crossed  the  At- 
lantic propelled  by  its  own  steam, 
"what '"in    chorus.  -Why,  I    thought    we 

'•T;;;;;!Ses;"saidI,<'when.we    get    away 
from  home  we  f.nd  a  whole  lot  of  things     we 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


281 
clidn't   do       We   think   tl.at  we  havo   all   the 

few  of  „s  know  that  there  are  more  tun  tif 
o"  \y:'  T'^'"'^  -toam.Un.  lines  st  .rtin^ 

f  om  Montreal,  and  that  nine  railroads  eente^ 
•J?  here  supply  the  freight.      You  can  «o  baek 

.ome  and    tell  the   children  nmnv  thino-s  t lev 

have  never  before  heard  of"        '  ' 

Another   chorus  :'•  Indeed,  we    will    for   we 
iiave  made  a  note  of  them  !" 

Rube  Wants  to  Even  Things  Up. 

It  was  now  late  and  everybodv  but  the 
Co  onel  and  I  turned  in"-wJ  sat  and  smoked 
out  a  eigar  before  retiring. 

"Colonel,"  I  began,  when  all  had  gone  -  I 
shall  never  be  able  to  thank  you  enough  for 
this  opportunity,"  * 

"  AN'hat  opportunity  ?" 

"\Vhy   the  opportunity  of  getting  even  with 
the    teaehers  of  the  States.       Vou    see,  thev 

^ti(.       by  not   having  taught  Canada  as  tlKn' 
should.      Say,  if  I  don't  have  fun  win.  1 1  en 

'MVmie,  now,  Kube,  you  are  too  re.senlful  ' 

Pronuse  me  this,  though,  that  y.>u   won't  be' 
too  re  with  pretty  Miss ' 

V„u  «ee  I  left  her  nanu-  blank  as  when  thev 
al    «ee  this,  as    I    mean  th.^v  shall,  ea.h    o,.;. 

and  111  |)e  forgiven." 

Late  as  all  retired  th,.  whoh- party  was  out 
Hhorly  after    four    o'elo.k-as  non,^    of    the 

girl8      wanted  to  miss  anything,       l(  was  a 


ill' 


li^ 


!m 


282  The  Waudcriits  Yankee. 

bright  morning.      The  snn,   you  know,  rises 
much  earlier  up  here  than  at  home. 

I  really,  think  some  of  them  were  awake  all 
niuht  for  Miss  New  Orleans  asked:  Mr. 
Kuben,  what         n  was  that  we  passed  at  one 

o'clock  ?" 
"  That  was 

Three  Bivers, 
SO  called  from  the  St.  Maurice  dividing  itself 
up  into  three  channels.      It  is  just  half  wa> 

between  Montreal  and  ^-f^^r"'"n^^Ts 
to  either.  Did  you  ever  read  «^«3-7\»  ^'^^^^^^J 
poems  ?  '  No/  '  Well,  he  has  made  the  P  ace 
famous  among  those  who  are  interested  in 
Canadian  literature."  x    ^     „„v 

"I    didn't    kiiow   that    Canada    had    any 

T^n^^ta"  said  the  sour  Miss  ,  and  I  hope 

^  will  remlmber  saying  it  when  she  sees 

^^'ifnoo'^ked  at  my  watch  at  2.30  and  1  saw  a 
town  on  the  left,  I  wonder  what  it  was? '  que- 
ried Miss  Baltimore. 
"  That  was 

Batiscan, 
very   picturesque,  but  of  not  much   importance 
o  her.^han  that  it  was  named  after  a  famou« 
Indian  chief.      You  might  aujke  a  note  of    h^s 
ladies.      About  the  only  real  use  the  Ind  an« 
were  in  this  part  of  Canada,  was   to   furnish 
imnv  s  for  the  towns,  streets  and  rivers." 
"""l  trust  that  this  could  not  be  said  of  hose 
who  furnished  the  rest  of  the  names/'  spoke 
Tp  Mi««  C^incinnati,  who  always  said  things  to 

''«Cladles,.ook   over  there  to  the  right- 


TJic  IV under  ill  g  Yankee.  283 

that  is  the  mouth    of    the    ChauditM-o    River. 
Aot  far  back  is  tlie  beautiful 

Chaudiere  Falls. 

those  falls,  they  would  be  known  to  the  fur- 
thest corner  of  the  round  ^^lobe  and  Sunday- 
Hdiool  picnics  would  be  in  full  swin^  the  sum- 
mer through,  while  but  Mttle  attention  is 
given  them  there,  but  then  this  country  is  so 

doL^tu'n^T^'*'^^^"^^^^^  -^-« 

Just  before  reaching  Quebec  I  pointed  out 
Wolfe's  Cove, 

along    but  to  see  those  twelve  people,  from 

'Xn  ^'^"'  ^'  ^"^  ^'^"'  enthusiasm 

Old  Quebec, 

came  in  sight  was  worth  the  whole  trip.  I 
won  t  stop  here  to  tell  them  of  the  to^^,  it 
took  a  whole  book  to  do  that,  so  I  referred 
them  to  "  The  Yankee  in  Quebec,"  and  rwe!.? 
on.  I  had,  however,  to  point  out  manv  things 
of  interest,  while  going  down  and  around  to 

6  aV"'"''"'^''''''''  '''''  ^''■"'''''^  ""^  schedule  time. 
It  was  arranged  that  a  whole  week  sho,ild 
be  spent  m  town,  then  the  start  made  up  the 
Quebec  and  Lake  St.  John  railwav,  to  visit 
the  lakes  on  the  way  up  to  Kob'erval,  and 
back  by  the  Saguenay. 

They  Want  to  Know,  Don't  cher  know. 
If  I  could  have  answered   all   the  questions 
asked  as  the  boat  was  rounding  to  the  pier,  I 


*': 


•)Q 


riic  IVamicriiig  Yivikcc. 


!"^l 


St.  Louis  Hotel. 


S4 

would  luive  been  a  very  rare  historical  ency- 
clopedia, but  you  never  heard  such  a  mixture 
of  people  and  localities  I 

^\h:  Ruben   where's  Brock's  Monument  / 
asked  Miss  Francisco. 

''We  want    to    see    Old    Fort  dary!'  said 

Miss  Chicap<».  .  ,  , 

''  Jily  great  grandfather  was  in  the  Lundj  s 

Lane  light,"  proudly  joined  in  ^Uss  New  \ork. 
-  I  must  visit  the  old  field  and  get  a  lelic  to 

take  home  to  grandma-she'll  be  .0  pleased. 

Ruben  can  you  see  it  from  here  / 
"  Where  were  Wolfe  and  Frontenac  killed 

that   duv  in   the   tight  with   the  Sioux  r  aslc- 

ed  Miss  Iowa,  w:ho  was  always  interested  in 

^''"  SiOTX  '.'who  ever  heard  of  Sioux  being  in 
Quebec  !  Why,  they  weren't  killed  l^y  Indians 
at  all.  It  was  in  the  Montcalm  battle  in 
172(5,  wasn't  it,  Mr.  Ruben?"  asked  Miss 
Phillv,  with  an  ail  of  superior  knowled^^e.  But 
I  had,  by  this  time,  fallen  over  into  the  Co  o^ 
net's  arms  and  was  saved  further  risk  by  the 
boat  reaching  the  pier. 

Wanted,  a  Home-like  Hotel. 

"  Ruben,  we  want  the  most  homelike  hotel 
in  Quebec-which  is  it?"  asked  the  Doctor. 
Of  course,  I  told  him  the  St.  Louis   and,  wiih- 
out  further  question,.he  ordered  ^^  1  hack«  to 
that  famous  Old  House.       You  should  hav.^ 
seen    Dion  s  smile  as  he    saw    that    women  s 
convention  crowd,  and  as  soon  as    he    had  a 
uioment  aside,  wantU  to  know,  '  lube,  where 
in  creation  did  you  tind  'em  / 

"I  didn't  find  them,  they  are  the  Colonel's 


S") 


The  IVamicring  Yunhx 

discovery,  but  t\wy  are  very  line  people  and 
you  want  to  treat  tliem  to  the  best  you  have  " 
And  for  a  whole  week  he  and  Hunt  did  -but 
that  tlu\v  C 
"  famous/' 


that  tluM-  do  with  everybody  who  slops  al  Ihe 


Rube  and  the  Colonel's  Busy  Week. 

That  was  the  busiest  weelv  the  Colonel  and 
I  had  seen  in  Canada.  I  wouhl  tell  vou  all 
about  il,  but  by  tlie  volumes  of  notes  those 
ten  teachers  carried  away  wilh  Ihem  I  jud-e 
that  each  one  of  them  intends  to  write  a  book 
on  Quebec,  and  it  would  be  unkind  of  me  to 
use  their  material. 

Look  along  the  margins  for  a  few  reminders 
of  the  old  town:  Champlain,  the  founder;  one 
of  the  gates;  Spencer  Grange,  the  home  of 
Quebec's  great  historian,  Sir  James  if 
LeMoine;  Falls  of  Montmorenci;  the  little  -un 
and  many  other  things,  and  points  about  which 
I  have  already  told  at  length  in  "  The  Yankee 
in  Quebec." 

The  Two  Rooms  in  which  Montcalm  Died. 

They  may  leave  this  out  so  I'll  tell  vou  how 
the  first  day,  just  before  dinner  thev\uime  in' 
with  ten  separate  exclamations  about  having 
found,  in  a  honse  just  opposite  the  hoteT 
something  very  wonderful. 

^Hss  Washington  got  started  first:  "We 
never  knew  before  how  many  places  Mont- 
calm died  in  until  this  morning.  AVhy,  in 
that  house  across  the  street  we  were  shown 
two  .separate  rooms  in  whi.  h  thai  great  gen- 
eral   passed    away.        We    do    wonder,    Mr. 


f^'lONTCAL^I 


<•! 


It 
« ■ 


*  J 


28(; 


The  ll'aiulcriiig  Yankrc. 


CHAMPt*!'^ 


KulMMi,  if  tluMc  aiv  any  iiioiv  nxmis  in  town 
so  liistoi'ic.'' 

'«No  hulios,  thoso  are  the  only  two  whore 
h,.  breathed  h's  last,  but  they  are  authentie, 
as,  no  (h.nbt,  yon  were  tohl  by  the  enterpris- 
iu},'  owners  of  the  two  rooms." 

Finds  Historic  Button. 

"See.  here,  Knbei.  what  Miss  Franeisco 
fonml,  a  button  cut  from  the  coat  of  General 
Wolfe.  She  only  jjave  !|r,  for  it  ixv\  is  Kom"; 
to  give  it  to  the  nmseuni  at  home.  It's  a  i- 
thentie  too,  for  the  poor  old  woman  who  let 
her  have  it  at  that  price,  jnst  because  her 
rent  was  dne,  t«^ld  her  so.       Didn't  she  Miss 

Frami    o  T  ,  ^    ^  i     -4. 

'-  Yes  and  I  was  almost  ashamed  to  taUe  ^t 
from  the  poor  old  woman  at  that  price,  she 
'  seemed  so  sad  to  part  with  it."  And  yet 
:^Iiss  Francisco's  face  beamed  over  her  prize- 
beamed  so  that  I  hadn'  the  heart  to  say  a 
word  She  seemed  to  have  all  varieties  of 
monev  .nd  wouldn't  miss  it.  She  told  me  she 
only  taujiht  school  one  term,  and  did  ihat  for 
the' fun  of  it— that  slie  didn't  have  to  teach,— 
and  she  looked  the  part. 

Off  for  the  Lakes  Country. 
The  morning'  we  went  aboard    the    Quebec 
and    Laue  St.  .lohn  train  was    a    perfect  one. 
Kvervbodv  'vas  in  }j;ood  spirits,  and  old  Que- 
bec never    iiad    more  enthusiastic    champions 
than  the  party  that  left  that    morning.      My 
old    friends    had    treated    them    royally    and 
ihev    with  one  accord,  voted  the  Ancient  (  ity 
the'di'arest,  lovliest,  etc.,  place  they  had  ever 


The  U'aiiih 


riiit;  Yank 


cc. 


at  an,.,-  Jiustoi,,  (inoluM.  nmw  noxt.      Thcv 
.'Jl  «ai.l  tl.at  wlu.n  tlu^v  «c,t  l.a.-k  ho.,.,.  ,h.v 

"Sfh''?''"";?'""^''''  ^'•^*'•'<*^••''•>»-«lv 
all  up  ho.e  to  see  what  then  had  s<v.,. 

Qu.'boc  ,s  not  onIyf,.ll  of  all  r,orts  of  interest 
>"t  the  people  n.ake  yo..  feel  that  thei.-  little' 
omjM..,.esnota,ltl.e..isin 

aeai't,  for  I  love  her. 


A^we  .Tossed  the  .......fy  .oad  at  nj.aHe.- 

ItVf ''  '"7"""*''  ^^"<»  •'-!  >^  wonderf,.] 
l.Kult.x  for  I.Mat.,  a,  said:  -See,  ^riHs  'h-,t's 
the  road  we  took  the  day  we  drove  o..^  to 

Chateau   Bigot. 

over'ff ''''^''''',  •'*  '''"  ^^'^^  '^^  the  n.ountain 

ox'  4  dh"V  '"'  ''"  "•*"''"^-  J"^'"^^^  '»  the 
I xact  (luv.'tio'i. 

"  K»l«N  do  you  ren.ember  the  dav  vou  irot 
lost  hunting  the  Chateau  T 
"  Say  we  Colonel." 


f  ■ 


la 


tif^ 


•jss 


The  ll'mitlcriiiii  Yankee 


Ajjain  Miss  Cincinnati  callt'd  uUcntiou  to 
Indian   Lorette, 

aswovvci'o    passinj;    and  spokr  of  the  jolly  ex- 
cursion nuule  to  it  ono  (lay  of  onr  (iuclxM- visit. 
Tliat  was  as  far  as  slio  could  «<>,  mul,  I  liad  to 
a^'ain  boconio  guide  to  the  party.      We  passed 
the  wild,  tumbling  waters  of  the 
Jacques  Cartier  River, 
and  a  few  miles  further  on  came  to 
Lake  St.  Joseph, 

with    pleasant  memories  of  the  stay  I    made 
there  at  the  LaWniew  House— a  stay,  1  hope 


APENttR.  -?■■ 


to  repeat  some  day,  for  it  was  very  delight- 
ful. It  is  a  tishiug  resort,  and  where  the  lake 
yachting  regattas  are  held. 

AVe  pass 

St.  Raymond, 

the  large  and  very  pretty  village  hemmed  in 
by  Swiss  like  mountains. 
"^The    whole    party    were    very    enthusiastic 
over  the  prospect  about  St.  Raymond.      "  La- 
dies, do  you  remember  the  Commodore  ?" 


The  ll\tiuhii,i>^  Yiwkcc.  2S9 

'''Remember  the  Comw  ulore  r     Wi|,   vvv  .^un- 
Liioius  rroin  the  ton 

ti,e," 'ta'thr'""' ' "'■*"^'f'-".n,.,ov,.,. 

Tomilli  Fish  and  Ga,       ciub, 
to  wliich  nuiny  Aino.i.a.is  belong  and  M.mVmu 
modore  is  the  President.      Fishin,   all    ah::t 


here  is  very  fine. 

Bivierre  a  Pierre, 
was  i;eached  at  58  miles  fron.  Quebec.   '^  This/' 

see'tions"/"^'  ^'""*^'^''  «^^«  -->'  '-^^--""'tnra! 

"  ps,  but,  Mr.  Ruben,  I  don't  think  there  is 
much  room  up  here  to  do  any  agricultures  ! 


If 


290 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Ill  P! 


rr,?>T'^  ''""*■ 


Why,  it  seems  to  bo  all  lakes-but  it  s  just 
what  we,  Yank-es,  like-we  have  enough 
room  at  home  to  plant  beans  and  corn  and 
wheat.  We  want  to  find  the  wild  and  pic- 
turesque-and  if  this  is  not  the  pictul^esque, 
then,  it's  no  use  hunting  for  it,"  and  Miss 
Iowa  thought  of  her  own  smooth  country  of 
sameness  with  lots  of  corn  ground,  but  with 
little  of  the  picturesque. 

"  The  trip  to  Grand  Mi^re  over  the  Tsorth- 
ern-45  miles  from  Riviere  t\  Pierre,  is  very 
delightful,  especially  near  that  fast  growing 
town,  and  beyond  at  Shawenegan  Fa  Is,  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  cataracts  on  the  Con- 
tinent." 

And  thev  made  a  note  of  it. 

"  Not  far  from  tTie  last  station  is  the 

Triton  Club.  ' 
"Oh    I've  heard  President  Roosevelt  speak 
of  this  Club  !"  exclaimed  Miss  Washington. 

"  Yes,  he  is  an  honorary  member  of  it,  as  is 
also  ex-President  (Meveland." 

"Well,  well,  it    sounds  just    like    home  to 
hear  those  names." 
At  noon,  we  reached 

Lake  Edward, 

\n  miles  up.  When  Rob  Rowley  saw  that  con- 

irregation  '.e  started  for  the  woods  and    left 

brother  (leorge  to  look  after  them.     ( Jeorge  be- 

>^  ing  a  ladies  man.  they  fared  well. 

The  "  girls  "  on  the  way  up  had  betm  read- 
Ij,.,  j„y  exiHMience  of  last  fall  and  prevailed 
on"  the  Doctor  to  remain  over  for  a  day-ami 
at  noon  of  the  day  following  he  could  hardly 


|i,. 


The  ll'midcnng  Vankcc.  991 

get  them  to  consent  to  leave,  for  Bob  hivinrr 
J-eturned  from  the  ^^  wood.,' '  had  gotten  out 
Ins  canoes  and  his  hike  steamboat  and  vo 
"ever  saw  a  party  of  teachers  so  'njoy  ^,  ^^ 
mg  an  they  did  at  Lake  Edward.  It  ^^^  ",, 
so  -wild  and  new  to  them 

Robe'rv^I'in'^^tf  "^'"""^  ''  "«^"  '^"^  -^»<"-i 

Lake  St.  John, 

.iJl'^'i  J^'"^   ^'"''^^'    "^   instructors    came    in 

tZn       .'''"'  '"'""''  ^^'"'  ^''^''•*'  ^"^  not  OH.  of 
them  who    could    ex.laim    an    ^'  Oh  '"       For 

irunh     '",  "'■  '"»»^>'-^''*'.V  had    taught    IZ 
Kiaph y,  and  not  one  had  ever  conceived  of  tho 

I  told  them  of  the  great  rivers  that  run  ir  t 
It,  they  seemed  to  he  hearing  of   a    n,.w  v     h^ 

Ijvn   the  Doctor  said    he  was  hooking  upon    -i 
Hheet  of  water  whose  verv  exlsten.-,.  l..      i 
to  liiiii  i...f   .         X  •    '^'^'«hm'  had  been 

J     .       T* "''""  "'"  •""»'•  '"'f''  "«>w. 

Jteioi.'  reaching 

Roberval, 
five  miles  this  side.  I, ,oi„t,,n„   the    west    .nd 
HMMply    asked    •M)„iutcI,ouanr'        Xo      J  "^' 

'  umd  the  Alontagnais   Indian  h.nguaire-so 

translated  it  for  tMn  and  asked  f;  ^^^^^^ 
'»«h,  but  It  took  SIX  words    to    do    it        ..  Un 
you  ...  the    falls    there  T       At  whi;.h    thev 
looked  and  bid.eld  in  the  distan.e,  the 


292 


The  U'andcrins  Yankee. 


Ouiatchouan  Ealls, 

far  higher  than  Niagara  and  nearly  the  heiglit 
of  Montmorenci,  near  Quebec,  but  with  much 
greater  volume  of  water. 

When  we    reached    the    Roberval    Hotel,  I 
could  not  but  note    the    expression  on  every 
face.     Thev  had  not  expected  to  see  anything 
on  so  large  a  scale,  I  knew  from  their  many 
"  wonder-what-it's-likes "    that    they    thought 
to  see  here  an  unpretentious  hotel  in  a  wilder- 
ness, but  to  tind  in— to  them— an  unheard  of 
count  rv,  a    great    hotel,    with    every  appoint- 
ment of  a  city  house,  was    an    agreeable  sur- 
prise.   Then,  too,  the  wilderness  they  had  look- 
ed to  find,  was  'not  here,   but.  instead  a  pro- 
gressive town  of  over  1,000  inhabitants,  sit- 
uated amidst  well  cultivated  surroundings. 

Concert  at  the  Roberval. 

Among  the  teachers  were  a  number  of  ex- 
cellent  pianists    and    singers,    especially   so 
Miss  Cincinnati,  who  had  studied  under  great 
European  teachers.    Miss  llaltimore  was  also 
an  artist  of  a  high  order.      It  was  fortunate 
as  an  impromptu  comert  was  to  be  held  that 
night  in  the  ball  room.      With  the  addition  of 
our   partv   it   passed   off   most   successfully  ; 
Miss  New  York  and  Miss  Washington  contri- 
buting   some    line    recitations.       I    was  very 
much   delighted    with   the   (Ndonel's   *' discov- 
vvy  "  and  told  him  so.       "  Yes,  Colonel,  they 
miiv  not  be  Mip'  on  geography,  history  and  ice 
but  thev  know  all  the  rest  of  the  program. 

The  i)octor  had  planned  to  stay  two  days 
and  as  we  all  sail  out    on    Ihr    great    pia7,7.n, 


a 


fter  the  concert,  sai 


as    mu( 


h  :  "  I     -annot 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


29;} 


4 


?n.    ..    V         "'•''"«'^'^-      ^^'  '''^  ^'''-i"  leave 
foi   the  Sagupnay  the    day  after    to-morrow 
No  use,  no  use,"  as  Miss  PhiUy  ami  Miss  New 

vveall,  that  there  was  to  be  fishiuj?  excur- 
sions, golf  nrntclies,  a  great  ball,  a  trTp  up  to 
visit  the  Montagnais  Indians,  and,  in  fact 
enough  aliead  to  keep  us  here  till-well  to' 
tlK^  end  of  the  season  for  that  matter.  The 
Doctor  was  relentless  until  Miss  Francisco 
took  matters  into  her  hands  and  said  •  "Doc- 
tor, ^^-our  plans  must  change,  we  stay  right 
here  for  a  week  !  Girls  ?"  " 

"Yes,  yes  '  said  they  all  when  tlu'v  had 
found  a  leader.  "  Yes,  Doctor,  we  shall  s.av 
.1  week  --And  we  stayed,  and  I  shall  neveV 
forget  that  jolly 


"Week   of   Sports   at   Roberval." 
The  part  takeu  in  the  concert  had  at  once 
given  our  par(y  i,n  entree,  and  nothing  went 
on  without  the  '■  girls '* 

The  next  day  (here  was   a    tishing  excursion 
up  to  the   mouth  of  one    of    the   rivers-thc 
Ienbonca--\Vewen(  up  by  stean.er.  a  beanti- 
till  morning  sail  across  the  lake 
^^  Some  of  the  tea.lMMs  were  line  whippers-^: 

no.  I  don  t  mean  that  now.  d.,n'(  get  humor- \ 
o's,   I    mean    whipping -fishing    bv  throwing    ^ 

the  tly.         S(»me  pe.>i „iy  know  one  mean- 

ing  for  a  word-but.  as  I  said,  so, f  i|„Mn 

were  go.Kl  (ishcrs  and  landcl  (ha.  gr.-at  land  -^ 
locked  salmon.  <alled  by  (he  Indh.ns  the 

Ouiananiche, 

will,  all  11,0  Kkill  .,f  „„  ,.s|„.,t.    Oh.  II  ,v„»f„„ 


m 


:#?  ■ 


1: !; 


^f 


.iUliUi  ,i   .., 


294 


7/jr  IVaudcring  Yankee. 


to   see   those    jxame   fish   fight  !     They  would 
bite  and  run  off  with  the  hoolc*almo8t  to  the 
very  end  of  the  long  line,  then  those  "  girls  " 
would  (luiekly  reel  in— ease  away,  draw  first 
to  one  side,  then  to  the  other,  reel  in,  again, 
and  plav  with  the  now  securely  hooked,  as  a 
csvt  would  plav  with  a  mouse,  letting  it  run 
for  a  space,  but   ever   bringing  it  closer— but 
slowly— closer   each  run,  until    after    a    long 
and  most  exciting  fight,  which  every  one  on 
board  stopped  to  watch,  the  gamest  fish  I  had 
ever  enjoved  seeing  caught,  was  drawn  into 
the  boat,  and,  as  it  lay  there  in  its  beauty  it 
seemed  to  sav:  "  You  have  won,  but  you'll  not 
soon  foru-t  the  day  you  fouglit  with  the  Oua- 
naniche  !"     And  long  towards  evening  on  the 
way  home  thev  all  declared,  ''  We'll  never  for- 
lH^i  this  dav  on  ^he  lake  of  the  Landlocked. 

We  had  to  start  early  next  morning  as  we 
were  to  have  a 

Fish  Dinner  at  the  Island  House, 
2.1  jvwav  across  to  the  eastern  and  f.irtlu'St  side 
of  \'\w  lake  from  Ihe  hotel,  near  to  where  the 

J  wat«'r  chang<'s  from  lake  to  river— at 

The  Grand  Discharge, 

where  the  placid  lake  turns  into  the  scathing, 
rushing,  wildly  picturesipie  Saguenay  river, 
which  plunges  along  for  iW  miles  at  tnu'-s 
with  the  sju-ed  of  a  railway  train  until  it 
reaches  far  away  (Miicoutimi.  where  it  n.oves 
majesticallv  on  toward  the  sea. 

A  large  iiumlMM-  of  iKM)ple  had  come  in  on 
flic  train  the  evening  before,  and  of  the  num- 
ber were  friends  of  Miss  Francisco.  As  1 
have  so  often  noted,  the  world  is  very  small 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


295 

the  fl  at  to  meet  with  friends    from    horn... 

tionis  ''''^  '^^  ^'''-  ^"^^'  "-  "^^-'l  ->o- 
ton      't.        ■"-  ^T'^  l>'iJe  on  their  weddinj, 

and  on  the  way  over,  the    Professor    re.  ited 

some  fine  selections       \x\^^,  v        • 

H..H    I        ^*^'^^"ons.      Miss  Francisco  told  us 

that    he    was    the    most    celebrated     on     the 
coast.  '^"*^ 

voted  by  all  most  enjoyable. 

That  night  was  held  the  ball  for  which 
great  preparation  had  been  made.  It  was  a 
pleasing  success.  The  next  day  was  ho 
golf  match;  the  following  the  tHp  in  c4 
mges  to  visit  Vv^  Indians  in  their  camp  or 
village;  the  fifth  day  we  drove  to  the  Xlls 
and  saw  the  great  pulp  mills  run  by  the 
power  from  the  water. 

One  morning  as  we  sat  out  on  the  piazza, 
to  watch  the  sun  rise  on  the  lake,  there  came 
cvyer  me  a  great  desire  to  ask  questions  of 
those  teachers.  One,  naturally,  feels  that 
teachers  ought  to  know  everything-and  vet 
—well,  I've  met  some  who  didn't 

"  How  far  north  are  we.  and  where  would 
this  line  pass  in  Europe  ?"  I  asked  as  a  begin- 
ning.      Not  one  could  tell  the  parallel- and 
only  Miss  Philly  would  risk    a    guess    it 
other  half  of  the  question.  ' 

"Well  I  think  it  must  be  about  through 
the  most  northern  part  of  Norwav."  she 
guessed. 

"I  can  make  a  bettor  guess  than  that— I 
t-an    guess  what    school    you    are    connected 


\h 


III 


II 


fl 


29G 


The  IVaudcring  Vaiihrc. 


■n 
•n 


O 

n 

u 
■r. 

■"4 

o 


o 

'jS. 


cs 


The  V/amkrmg  Yankee. 


297 
with  in  Philadelphia,"  and  to  her  surprise  I 

sai7r   ™^*   ^^'^   I''ineipal    of  jour   School," 

''  Yes    but  what  has  that  to  do  with  it  ''" 
Hell,  he  made  about  the  same  LMiess  as 
you  have,  and  I  conclude  that  it  is  character- 
istic of  your  School.       This  is  further  south 
than  the  most  southern  part  of  Enj^^hind." 
^     /^''fl"    fiom    twelve    of    them,  the    I)r 
included    who  in  hi.  surprise  forgot  himself. 
I  would  not  have  believed   it  m.vself  if  I  had 
not  looked.    Why,  this  is  not  far  north.    You 
lh2V^*f''o  ^"^   inipioBsion  that  Canada  and 
the  North  Pole   ire  synonymous.      Now  when 
you  get  home  tell  your  pupils  just  how  differ- 
ent Canada  is  situated  to  what  v.)u  had  al- 
ways thought  it  to  be,  and  tell  them  too  what 
a  cliai-ming  country  it  is." 

"  Indeed,  we  will  !"  and    even    Miss    Iowa 
joined  m  the  promise. 

The  Professor   Talks   on   Fossils. 
"I  have  noted    a    vast  change  in  the  per- 
sonnel of  our  schools  of  late  vears!"  remarked 
tlie  Professor  when  the  question  was  started, 
^ot  many  years  ago  some   old   fossil  would 
have    charge    of   the    school    board,    and    al- 
though most  heartily  disliked,  wotild  arbitrar- 
ily run  things  to  please  himself-none  would 
Ike  him,  but  all  would  fear  him  and  he  would 
hang  on—  on  the  principle  that  : 
"  The  good  -'.ie  first, 
And  they  whose  hearts 
Are  dry  as  summers  dust 
Burn  to  the  socket." 


m 


■i  ? 


If 


it  \ 


'-•l» 


II 

■■  ^^^^^^^M 

II 

11 

''f«IP^^B 

i; 

H 

1 

Hm 

r 

n 

BH 

1 

■ 

I 

bii 

i 

XH        1 

Hi 

1  ! 

298  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

«  But  that  day  is  past,  new  life,  new  blood 
thrills  through  the  arteries  of  our  school  sys- 
tem and  the  fossils  are  left  stranded  in  their     . 
own  shells,  not  because  P^^chance  they  are 
old-many  are  old  when  young,  whilst  others 
are  young  at  80.    No,  not  ^--"^^t^^^.,^^^;, 
old,  but  because  they  are  fos«ils.      Fossils  ot 
mei  with  the  milk  of  human  kindness  soured 
and  curdled  in  their  hearts    toward    all  who 
think  not  as  they  think.    No  charity  for  opin- 
ions not  their  own.      These  are  men  soured 
f.ward  the  world,  shrivelled  in  body  as  well 
as  in  soul,  men  who  rule  by  rod  of  iron,  not  bj 
love    for  they  have  no  love    in    their  hearts. 
The;e  men  used.oft  to  wonder  why  the  public 
would  not  respond  when  actual  school  needs 
were  pressing,  but  when  they  stepped  down 
Tnd  oSt  and  a  m.  :  of  broad  lines,  a  man  o 
heart  as  well  as  intellect,  stepped  into  their 
place,   why,  then,  the  public  were  quick  to  grant 
all  needed  improvements    and    progress  was 
the  order.      No,  the  day  of  the  fossil  is  past 
and    men    of    quick    responsive    minds,  with 
hearts  of  love  for   children  are  at  the  wheel, 

now  guiding." 

I  wondered  if  the  Professor  was  never  go- 
ins  to  get  through,  talking  about  fossils.  1 
could  only  catch  at  parts  of  what  he  was  say- 
Lg  but  Dr.  Boston  and  the  teachers  seemed 
to  enjoy  it  greatly  for  they  certainly  were  all 
young  and  progressive,  in  mind,  at  least. 
Ss  —  said  for  years  her  city  was  held 
back  by  a  fossil,  but  he  finally  shrivelled  up 
and  blew  awav  and  ever  since,  progress  has 
been  the  order,  new  schools  were  built,  uew 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  299 

laws  made    to    fit   the   requirements,  all    of 
wLich,  she  said,  had  been    held    back  by  the 
fossil  who  had  formerly  run  the  schools. 
They  Leave  Boberval. 
When  the  time  came  to  leave  the  Roberval, 
there  wasn't  one   of  us  who  wanted  to  come 
away.      Even   the   Doctor   could    have    been 
easily  persuaded  to  stay  a  week  longer,  but 
we  simply  had  to  cut  short  our  most  delight- 
ful vmt.      There  were  few,  of  all  the  young 
people  at  the  house,  but  were  down    to    tJ^ 

f W  ?  ^  ^^l  *^.^  "  ^^^^^  "  ^^-  »^y'  «'e  friends 
they  had  made  m  that  short  week  !  Everv- 
body  seemed  really  to  feel  sad  at  thei..-  depar- 
ture       And    "Everybody"     included     some 

.?nH    .K    T".^  P^^'P'^'  "«*  «"'y  ^'•«™  Canada 
and    the   States,  but  from    Europe,  since  the 

fame  of  this,  as  an  all-round  Ashing  and 
pleasure  resort,  has  gone  far  and  wide,  and 
each  year  the  circle  widens,  as  to  visit  and  en- 
joy the  pleasures  of  Roberval,  means  another 
advocate  of  the  place. 

nn^^fr  *^^  ^''''^^^  ^^  "goodbyes"  were  said 

t"1n  ?eTt  fT '*''    '    """'^^   ^^   *'--'  '^^ 

ChicoutimI, 
which  is  64  miles,  nearly  due  east  from  Rober- 

All  the  way  along  there  was  nothing  talked 
abou  but  "the  fun  we  had  at  Roberval,"  or 
wasn't  "this"  or  "that"  pei^on  or  family 
"just  too  nice  !"  ^ 

"  Colonel,"  said  I,  when  we  went  off  to  the 
fimokmg  room  for  a  quiet  cigar,  "  I'll  wager 
you  anything  you  name    that    some    of    the 


I 


if.    ': 


300  The  Wandering  Yankee. 

<  uirls '  will  not  teach  very  long,"  but  the 
Colonel  wouldn't  name  any  wager  as  he,  too 
had  «een  those  quiet  little  nooks  occupied  by 
a  single  "girl,"  and-well  the  other  wasn't  a 
girl-"  single,"  or  otherwise.  I  would  be 
happy  to  have  it  turn  out  so  as  they  are  most 
desen-ing,  even  if  they  don't  know  geography, 

history  or  ice.  , 

I  asked  the  Doctor  how  it  was  possible  to 
have  chosen  ten  so  charming  people,  and  he 
said-  "You    take    the  young  ladies  of  to-day 
who' are    toxching  in  the    public    schools    of 
America,  and  you  will  find  them  as  a  class  a 
^"st  claiming  lot  of  girls."      He,  too   called 
'em  "girls,"— "You  see,"  he  continued,  "our 
standard  i^  so  high  that  it  takes  t^-  brif  *■ 
est  we  can  find  to  fill  the  positions,"  and  the 
Doctor  ought  to  know. 

We  reached  Chicoutimi  at  night  and  r- 
rxained  until  morning.  There  are  fairly 
good  hotels  in  the  place.  If  we  had  had  a 
"Roberval"  to  stop  at  we  would  have  remain- 
ed over,  as  there  is  much  to  see  ^at  «-  town 
As  it  was,  everybody  was  up  and  out  at  four 
o'clock  and  as  the  tide  would  not  permit  of 
the  boat  starting  until  later  than  usual,  we 
all  went  up  to  see  the 

Magnificent  View, 

above  the  town  where  the  railroad  crosses 
the  Chicoutimi  River,  over  a  bndge  GO  feet 
above  the  water.  This  is  a  remarkable  river 
It  is  one  series  of  falls.  Withm  17  miles  it 
drops  486  feet  by  seven  distinct  plunges  and 
one  continuous  series  of  rapids  between. 


The  PFaiuhring  Yankee. 
It  is  worth  vvhilo  to  sec  the  Ki<*Jit 


301 


Seething  Saguenay  Biver, 
at  a  point  four  miles  west  or  the  town.      One 
place  .von  can  look  down    from    the  railroaa 
aOO  feet  to  the  river  below,  then  up  and  down 
as  far  as  yon  .-an  see,  is    the  placid  water  to 
the  east  and  the  boilin^^  tnmblinjr  waters  of 
the  rapids   above.      Across    the    river  to  the 
north  ai-e  j-reat  palisades,  hij^her   than    those 
of  the  Hudson,  and  nestlinj.  on  tlie  top,  down 
toward    and    almost    oppoite    Clhicoutimi,  is 
seen  the  pretty  little  villaj^e    of    Ste.  Anne 
with  Its  ever  present    parish    church.       The 
railroad,     before    reaching    Chicoutimi    runs 
down  {,'rade  80  feet  to  the  mile. 
While  viewing  the  gnmd  surroundings  and 
.  drinking  in  the  beauties    of    the    scene,  Miss 
Iowa,  whose  rural  ,  .,r  had  caught  the  sound 
of    bird    notes,  said    to    me,    "Why,    Ruben, 
Iwten,  the  air  is  filled  with   the  songs  of  the 
robm  and  the  twittering  of  the  sparrows.     I 
didn  t    know    that  these  birds    cume    so    far 
north  !" 

"  No,  Miss  Iowa,  you  did  not  know  it,  and 
you  are  like  many  another,  you  are  finding 
that  tlie  far  north '  is  very  much  like  the  rest 
of  the  world  after  all,  only  that  it  has  added 
beauties." 

The  whistle  of  the  boat  indicates  that  by 
tlu'  time  we  can  get  to  the  wharf  and  aboard, 
the  captain  will  be  ready  to  touch  the  bell  for 
the  start  through 

The  Wierdest,  Most  Picturesque  Scenery 
on  the  Continent. 
As  we  were  leaving  the  wharf  M       <  .noin- 


kc 


TJic  Waudcrmg  Yankee. 

uati  wlio  wuH  <n('i-  asking  the  mcaniiiK'  of 
nanu'H  Indian,  wanted  to  know  if  "  rWron- 
tinii"  took  six  En{?liHli  words  to  express  il. 

'•Well,  now,"  I  answered,  "you  count  and 
I'll  say  tlieni  :  '  It-is-de*  -  ^his-far-up.'  " 

-Yes,   exactly     six.  o  wonder    the    In- 

dian.^ have  to  '^ay  so  few  words.  :My,  my, 
Ruben,  imagine  the  amount  of  talking  a  wo- 
man's sewinj;  society  could  do  if  they  couid 
onlv  talk  Indian  !"  I'd  never  thought  of  that 
before.  "  Yes,  or  the  '  Caudle  lectures  '  they 
niijrht  deliver  to  tired,  sleepy  man."  said  I. 

"  Who  usuallv  needs  them,"  she  retorted. 

"  As  woman  unwisely  thinks  ! "  I  defended. 
"Indeed,  aAd  who  is  the  arbiter  of  wis- 
dom ?"  she  smilingly  (piestioned. 

Just    here    I    called    her   attention    to    the 
hi'^h  blutfs  on  the  river  bank,  as  I  found  m, 
o>vn  were    not    sufficiently  high  to  cope  with 
her       She  was  too  ready  in  her  wit. 

1  was  happy  to  know  that  she  r-presented 
,uv  own  state.  I  never  once  caught  her  un- 
aware, 1  u-  had  her  ask  a  question  that 
should    have  been   known    l)y  a   child  in  the 

sixtli  grade.  . 

Yes,  "Chicoutimi"  means  '^t-is-deep-this- 
far-up"  .Above  the  town,  a  short  distance, 
a  boat  could  hardly  go  much  less  a  steamer 

Vll  the  "  girls  "  gathered  on  the  front  deck 
and  each  one  seemed  to  regret  that  she  could 
not  talk  "Indian"  a  wMile,  just  to  be  able  to 
do  justice  to  that 


...J^«3    '  -  — - 


The  WandcrUig  Yankee.  -jqo 

Marvelous  Blver. 
1  i.a.I  to  l,.||  tl,c.,„  wliat  l„„l  boo,,  «„i,l  of  it 

ihof  ;,;h,r"''""""' """  "'""^■"""'  ■■'■'■-•"^ 

I*i'of.    Roberts  said  of  il  :  -  The  Satruoiiav 

can  hardly  W  called  a  river.      It    in   Si! 

«  "pendou.  .has„.  eleft  b,  eartluj^al  e      ^A 

through  tlie  Laureiitian  lulls." 

A  writer  in  the    London  -  Times  "  rails    it 

M  nre's  Kareophagns.       C«,„p,,ed  to  it  the 

l>t.id  bea  IS  blooming,  and  the  Leth.'  or  the 

ea  witli  this  savage  river  !" 

"Cut  even  those  writers  fail  to  do  it  ius- 
tiee,"  said  Miss  New  Orl.sms.  '' 

nichllz!"^"'^''""''"  ''""'^  ''  ""''""^  '^  l''**'''^'^- 
"And  I  don't  blame  them  for  it."     "  Wlnt 
does    that    word  mean,   Mr.  Ruben  ?"  ask.'d 
Miss  New  York. 

1^'  The-river-that-is-piteh-dark-and  deep  " 
Eight  !  my,  tliat's  the  longest  yel  " 

"Too   long  for  so  short  a  river  !"  said   Miss 
1  lull.v,  who  Avas  at  once  fined  and  sent  below 

Kven  Miss  New  Yo.k  had  to  admit  that  the 
Hudson  River  was  a 

Pu.ling  Brook  in  Comparison, 

and  that  the  palisaides  would  be  nuM-e  mole 
hills  if  plac(>d  along  side  of  some  of  the  vast 
pih's  of  rock  that  reached  heavenward,  shear 
up  from  the  river's  edge. 
When  we  came  to  the  first  stop  tlie  "  girls  " 

thlr?"  "^^'"  ^"^''"'  ''^"^'**  '^'''  ^"'^''•^  ""'"''  "^ 
"  Hesknewaska  !" 


'f 


4  « 
If 


^'i; 

i? 

:'!' 


t.i 


304 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  What's  the  answer  ?" 

"  This  is-where-the-laugh-comes-iu  !" 

"  Yes,  but  what's  the  answer  ?"  urged  the 
Colonel's  "  pretty  "  one. 

"  I  gave  it— and  had  you  only  laughed  you'd 
have  had  it— This  is 

Ha  !    Ha  !    Bay." 

*'  Oh,  say  Rube,  that's  too  much  like  the 
river— very  deep  and  dark,  but  too  weird  to  be 
allowed,"  said  the  Colonel,  not  liking  it  that  I 
had  joked  his  favorite  teacher. 

A  number  of  smaller  bays  are  seen  along 
the  eleven  miles  between  Chicoutinii  and 
Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay  ! '  The  oddest  of  all  names  is 
"  La  Descente  des  Femmes,"- when  I  pointed 
out  this  bav  and  told  the  "  girls  "  the  name,  a 
number  of"^  them  who  know  French  looked 
over  the  side  of  the  boat  and  said  :  *  Excuse 
us  !"  with  the  emphasis  on  the  *  us.' 

Just  below  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay  !,  the  river  nar- 
rows down  very  much  until  it  is  not  over  dou- 
i)le  the  width  of  the  East  River,  at  the 
Brooklyn  Bridge.  This  intensifies  the  benuty 
of  the  rockbound  banks  of  the  mighty  stream. 
Beyond  is  n  great  rock— where,  again,  the 
river  widens,  so  smooth  that  one  might  think 
it  had  been  polished  ns  for  a  picture.  It  is 
called 

Le  Tableau. 

But  all  these  rugged  banks  and  great  rocks 
Hppn  along  the  sides  dwindle  into  mere  hills 
when  compared  to  the  mighty  mountains  of 
rock  that  loom  up  in  the  distance  to  the  right 
or  southern  bank.      They  are 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  305 

Trinity  and  Eternity. 
Their   very  names   denote   awful   grandeur. 
They  are  nearly  2,000  feet  high.       Even  Miss 
Iranoisco,    used   as    she  was    to    mountains, 
stood  in  wonderment  in  presence  of  Trinity  as 
the  boat  veered  in,  seeming  almost   to   touch 
the  bank,  yet  far  away  in  fact.      When  last  I 
tame  past  this  rock  I  foolishly  tried  to  throw 
a  stone  over  what  seemed  but  a  few  ^irds  dis- 
tance.   That  was    months   ago   and   I've    not 
throwed   a    stone    since,   save    with    the   left 
hand.      This  time  I  let  the  "  new  "  ones  trv  to 
wrench  their  arms,  but  none    of    them  could 
reach  the  wall,  try  as  they  might.    The  decep- 
tive distance  is  most  phenomenal.  A  statue  is 
seen  far  up  on  a  rocky  shelf.   Miss  New  York 
who  saw  fun  in  the  midst  of  the  grandest  sur- 
roundings, wanted    to    know  of  the  Captain  • 
"  I  wonder,    Captain,  would    the    ladv  of  the 
mountain,  flirt  ?»  as  she  moved  her  handker- 
chief. 

"Oh,  no,  mamselle,  ze  lady  of  jce  mountain 
no  Yankee  !"  Miss  New  York  was  no  match 
for  the  good  natuHMl  (^iptain.  It  will  be  manv 
a  day  before  she  hears  the  last  of  her  at- 
tempted pleasantry. 

A  mile  further  on,  across  a  bav  like  inden- 
ture which  is,  in  fact,  the  mouth  of  a  stream 
we  came  to  Ca\\^  Eternity,  almost  as  high  as 
Trinity,  but  less  bold  and  piotures(iue,  and  yH 
very  impressive,  as  the  boat  floats  past  it.  ' 

From  these  two  mountain  capes  the  river  is 
most  picturesque  as  it  winds  in  and  around, 
making  new  cnmbinnfions  of  sronoK  as  we  go 
on  toward 

Tadouiac. 
This  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Saguenav 
nnd,  at  its  entrance  into  the  St.   Lawrence. " 


I 


M:' 


.li 


i  H. 


306 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


This  is  a  place  of  much  interest.  The  boat 
stayed  long  enough  for  us  to  drive  up  into  the 
town.  We  visited  the  salmon  hatchery,  went 
through  the  old  church,  built  in  1750,  on  the 
site  of  the  oi'iginal  bark  church,  which  dated 
from  1C39,  one  of  the  earliest  on  the  St.  Law 
rence.  Here  are  the  Indian  mocassin  and 
boot  makers,  quite  worthy  a  visit.  There  is  a 
fine  hotel  at  Tadousac  . 

From   Tadousac    we    went   far    across    the 
W'de  St.  Lawrence  Bav  to 


il 


Biviere-du-Loup. 

Here  again  was  a  parley  between  the  Doc- 
tor and  the  "  girls." 

The  Doctor  said  his  plans  were  such  that 
he  must  go  on,  but,  again.  Miss  Francisco 
quietly  remarked  :  "  It's  *  ten  to  one '  we  stop 
of  at  Rivit^re-du-Loup  and  go  down  to 

Cacouna, 

the  Newport  of  Canada.    Girls  ?" 

The  Doctor  lost — as  was  usual — with  the 
girls  !  Once  let  them  And  that  they  are  with- 
in a  few  miles  of  a  place  so  noted  for  real  fun 
as  Cacouna  and  votes  don't  count  unless  they 
are  on  i  heir  side,  and  in  this  case  the  vote  was 
unanimous.  "  Why,"  said  Miss  Fmncisco, 
"  Frank  S.  owns  that  hotel  at  Cacouna,  and 
Frank  was  so  nice  to  us  at  Ciuebec  that  we've 
just  got  to  see  his  place,  besides  Frank  Nor- 
man is  landlord  this  year  and  they  say  he  has 
few  e<|ual8  for  making  his  guests  forget 
I'very  care  in  the  round  «.f  pk-asurcH  ho  thinks 
out  for  them.  Yes.  Doctor,  we're  going  to 
stop  oflf,"  and  stop  we  did. 


tA,'-*'3mm 


The  Wander iug  Yankee. 


307 

While  the  baggage  was  being  taken  off  I 
went  into  the  station  and  telephoned  to  un 
town  :  * 

"  iit?llo,  Central  !  Give  me 

Colonel  Tom  Crockett, 

''No-Croekett.     C-r-o-e-k-e-t-t-Crockeit  !" 
<^h,  we,  we,— ah,  here  iz  ze  Colonel  " 

voiofv"'''    ^"^^"^'^ '-I^o     .vou    recognize    ni.v 

"No-oh,  it's  Rnbe  !  Where  are  vou,  eh  ? 
>  lat,  'down  at  the  pier?'  '(^uouna"^ 
^o,  you're  not,  you're  eoniing  up  here,  I'm  iro- 
Hig  to  take  that 

Temiscouata  Trip 

I've  so  often  told  you  about,  and  which  vou 
have    so    often    promised    to    take    with    "me. 
(ome  up— no   excuse— and  we'll   go  down   to- 
morrow—What !       -  School  teachers  V  'ten  of 
them  ?'      Oh,  let  the  Colonel  look  after  then* 
till  they  get  to  Cacouna,  and  I'll  stand  ■  o.)d 
that  Norman  will  see  that  time  don't  dra^  on 
their    hands.       I'll    wait  at   the  office."       At 
that  he  shut  off  the  'phone  lein  ing  me  no  al- 
ternative but  to  tell    the   Coltmel  that  I  was 
going  to  stop  at  this  town.      I  waited  till  the 
"  girls  "  were  all  off,  then  went  up  town. 

Colonel  Crockett  Takes  Rube  over  the 
Temiscouata. 

I  could  no  more  touch  on  that  grand  outing 
through  this  wonderful  tishing  resort  in  sum- 
mer and  hunting  grounds  of  winin-.  in  <»n.-  lit- 
tle book  than  I  could  fly,  and  I'm  not  going  to 
try  in  this  short  space.      In  fact,  I  don't  be- 


il 


308 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


■-tm 


lieve  I  could  do  so  in  a  whole  book.  The  lover 
of  sports  who  don't  visit  this  country  of  beau- 
tiful lakes  and  wild  wooded  hunting  grounds 
will  come  and  go  from  Canada  without  seeing 
the 

Paradise  of  Sports. 

I  just  knew  the  "  girls  "  wouldn't  beli  n'e  a 
word  I  said  about  Ashing  unless  I  brought 
proof,  so  I  had  this  photograph  taken  o '  one 
day's  catch — and  (.'olonel  Crockett  didn't 
catch  'em  all  either.  See  those  three  big  ones  ? 
Well,  I  hooked  all  three  of  them. 

"From  the  Colonel?"  "Hooked 'em  from  the 
Colonel '?  Now,  don't  get  smart.  No,  I 
caught  'em,  fished  for  them  and  drew  them 
from  the  original,  water."  (I  don't  like  to  tell 
about  fishing,  it  does  take  so  much  explana- 
tion.)* 

This  is  positive  proof  that  any  body  can  fish 
in  the  Temiscouata  country.  I  just  didn't  care 
a  fig  whether  the  Doctor  and  the  "  girls  "  got 
tired  and  left  me  or  not,  so,  Colonel  Tom  and 
I  stayed  up  there,  going  from  lake  to  lake,  for 
a  whole  week,  and  hardly  then  saw  a  littl;'  bit 
of  the  country.  When  we  got  back  and  Co- 
lonel Tom  drove  me  down  to  Cacouna,  five 
miles,  I  was  surprised  to  have  them  all  say  : 
— Doctor  Boston  included — "  Why,  Rube, 
what  was  your  hurrv  ?  "      Thev  had  had  a  re- 


•Note.— After  all,  Lapointe  failed  to  half- 
tone this  photograph,  and  I  won't  allow  him  to 
"  lyin'  cut"  it,  so  you'll  have  to  take  my  word 
for  that  fish  story,  and,  which,  if  you  knew  how 
easy  it  was  to  catch  them  down  there,  you 
would  easily  believe. 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  399 

"  "irL '?''*'^'''^'     ^'"^^    ^^^'^    ^g^i'^'    and    the 
gins      were    as    popular   as    ever.       My— I 

never  had  seen  a  lot  of   girls  who  eo.iid  beat 

them    for   a   downright    good    time  wherever 

they  went  !      They   couldn't  say  enough   nice 

fo?  r;  •  1  -^  '^''  ^^""^  ^""^  landlord  I  ever  saw 
foi  thinking    what  to  do  next.' "    Then  I  said 

tho.  t1  ^''"  '"^  •"  ^^^  ^^'*  ^«^'  P»'«»d  to  think 
tnat  I  knew  a  good  one  when  I  saw  him 

Everything  must  end,  and  with  regret 
everybody  saw  the  last  of  this  year's  stay  at 
:Norman's,  and  everybody  promised  to  send 
everybody  else  up  to  the  great  St.  Lawrence 
Hall,  at  Cacouna  for  this  and  next  year— then 
by  that  time  they  won't  have  to  be  sent. 

We  take  the  boat  to  cross  over  to 

Murray  Bay, 

Where  is  one  of  the  finest  summer  resorts  on 
the  river.      The  Richelieu  Company  have  here 
a  magnificent  hotel,  just  completed,   the  Ma- 
noir  Richelieu.      It  stands  near  the  wharf,  on 
a  commanding  bluff.      it    is    in  its  every  an- 
pointment  a  model    of    the    i)erfect   summer 
hotel.       Murray  Bay  has  many  fine  cottages. 
One    the    home    of    Justice    Harlan,    of    the 
ITiated    States    Supreme    Court,     and     m.ny 
other  notables    have    cho.sen    this    ideal  spot 
where  they  pass  the    hot    summer  months  of 
each  year. 

We  leave  Murray  Ray,  and  find  ourselves 
next  morning  again  in  Quebec.  I  could  not 
but  note  the  real  joy  on  every  fare  wluii  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  Old  Capital.  Every- 
body had  been  up  for  over  an  hour  to  see  the 


%       M 


I\ 


310 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Sunrise  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 


The  great  red  hjill  came  up,  throwing  its 
long  rays  out  toward  our  steamer,  whose 
wake  of  waves  broke  into  a  tliousand  part- 
icles the  sheen  of  light.  The  shores  of  island 
and  mainland  grew  from  dark  to  blight,  us 
Ihe  sun  rose  higher  and  higher,  casting  shad- 
ows all  along  the  Isle  of  Orleans  as  we  came 
ploughing  our  way  up  the  broad  river. 

To  come  again  to  Quebec  was  as  though 
coming  to  a  loved  home,  after  a  long,  happy 
sojourn  amid  scenes  of  beauty.  It  was  rest- 
ful and  sweet,  and  everyone  se<Mned  to  feel 
drawn  toward  it  as  though  it  were  really 
I[ome. 

The  "girls"  were  stirprised  to  find  tliat  their 
friends  knew  of  all  their  doings  since  we  had 
left  Quebec. 

Why,  who  would  think  that  the  news- 
papers were  so  enterprising  up  here  !  I  didn't 
know  before  I  came,  that  they  had  papers  in 
Canada  so  up-to-date,"  said  ^liss  Philly,  who 
seemed  to  think  that  her  city  had  the  niovio- 
poly  in  that  line.  A  sarcastic  rei)orter,  who 
heard  this  lemark  said  :  '*  And  I  didn't  know 
that  some  of  your  papers  were  up-to-date  in 
anything  except  obituary  poetry,  vide  : 
'  AtHiction  sore  long  t  ime  he  bore, 
Faysicians  wei-e  in  vain,  etc.' '' 

That  was  cruel,  but  he  was   a    new-comer  and 
had  to  be  pardoned. 

Prisoners  Like  Quebec. 

"Wasn't  (Jeneral  Winthdd  Scott  once  in 
Quebec  ?"  asked  Miss  Baltimore. 


KlBM 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


aji 


Wt  'i's^.  ':*• 


312 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


''  Yes,  he  was  here  during  the  1812  war.  Ue 
was  here  as  a  prisoner,  but  Quebec,  even  as 
far  baek  as  1812,  had  a  way  of  treating  pnson- 
ers  so  well  that  they  fought  to  be  held." 

Then  I  took  them  down  to  Dave  Morgans 
and  showed  thc-ni  the  old  Union  Building,  now 
his  (Dave's)  great  emporium  of  the  correct  m 
men's  dress— and  Dave  took  us  all  through 
the  old  halls,  upstairs,  and  pointed  out  the 
rooms  where  Seott  had  wandered  through  as 
the  nation's  guest  (?). 

I  was  amused  at  Miss  New  York  when  she 
saw  Morgan's  store.  I  heard  her  say  to  Miss 
Chicago  :  "I  don't  believe  Bell  could  beat  these 

stvles." 

I  showed  thenv  a  picture  of  this  old  hall, 
taken  at  the  time  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Cornwall  and  york  were  here. 

It  was  verv  warm  while  we  were  in  Quebec, 
so,  in  order  to  bring  back  the  thought  of  cold 
weather  if  nothing  more,  I  showed  the  "  giris  ' 
the  picture  of  Holt  Renfrew  &  Company's 
great  fur  house,  on  Buade  street,  near  the 
Basilica,  taken  during  the"' Week  of  Sport .<." 
''  See  those  blocks  of  ice  at  the  edge  of  the 
sidewalk,  and  the  ice  pillars  ! " 

"  Oh  mv,  it's  a  pleasure  to  see  ice  even 
though  but  in  a  picture.  Say,  giris,  this  is 
that  fur  house  we  have  heard  so  much  about, 
let's  go  round  and  see  it,"  and  Miss  Francisco 
led  the  way,  as  she  usually  did.  When  they 
got  there  I  thought  they'd  never  leave.  A 
woman  is  in  her  element  when  she  can  "shop." 
They  said  they  had  never  .'-^en  so  many  e 
furs  in  one  place  before— and  I  believed  the^. 


"'.^afa^r 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


o'13 


Coats  of  arms. 
The   "gills"   became   such   Quebecers   that 
every  one  after  leaving  Holt's,  went    in    next 
door  to  J.  F.  Dobbins,  and  got  a  Quebec  coat- 


of-arms  and  a  lot  of  other  things  jewellery  to 
take  home  as  souvenirs. 

The  Old  Curiosity  Shop. 
Then  I  had  to  take  them  all  down  to  St. Stanis- 
las street,  to  visit  the  Old  Curiosity  Shop.  I'll 


The  Wandering  -Yankee. 


iiili  t, 


314 

never  forget  the  look  on  Gale's  face  as  the 
''Hi,is"  tiled  in  t(.  the  Shop  that  day-nor  will  1 
forget  the  surprise  of  the  -  girls '  as  they  saw 
the  thousands  of  curiosities  scattered  around. 
I  thought  Miss  Francisco  would  buy  out  tht 
place  "  to  t.ke  honie  and  give  to  the  nmseum 
and  tell  how  that  "They  canio   from  <>ld  Que- 

bee  " 

Again  we  bid  good-bye  to  friends  and  city 
and  left  for  Montreal,  wlu  re  we  arrived  next 

morning  at  0.:iO.  . 

This  mav  seem  a  long  description  of  a  tnp, 
but  there  are  trips,  then  there  are  other  trips; 
this  one  to  the  Saguenay  is  one  of  the  o  hers, 
a  I  to  do  it  even  a  passing  justice  vvould  re- 
nuue  far  more  thlin  I  have  given  it.  To  those 
4ho  come  to  Montreal  and  fail  to  go  on  that 
weird  river,  I  can  only  say— don  t. 

HOSPITALS. 

The  Doctor  and  the  ^'gii Is"  remained  another 
week  in  Montreal.      The  Colonel  and  I  showed 
them    about.       The    Do.-tor's  wife    manifested 
great  interest  in  the  subject  of  the  hospita Is- 
and     she     casually    told     me     that     she    had 
once  been  a  nurse  in  Boston.    She  was  greatlx 
surprised  to  ftnd  here  su.-h  an  excellent  system 
-and  she  said  (the  evening  of  th(>  day  I  show- 
ed her  around  among  them,  while  the  (Ndonel 
was  showing  the  "girls"  among    the    schools 
and  colleges)  that  the  system  was  really  excel- 
lent.      She  told  the  Doctor  of 

The  Montreal  General  Hospital 
situated  on  Dorchester  street,  near  its  eastern 


■r-«-..-r:'?iic», 


The  Wandcrm^  Yankee. 


Hi 


oio 


«'ii(l.  Sh,.  lijHl  fouiul  out  tliiU  it  (la tod  from 
away  back  to  l,Sir>,  wlicu  iinniipants  were 
<-oniiiijr  in  to  the  countrv  in  ^i-cat  nuiiihers  aud 
needed  asHiHtance— and  liow  that  tlie  Ladies' 
lienevolent  Society  assisted  tliem  and  set  };o- 
iiiH:  the  phm  that  resulted  in  the  };reat  hospital 
seen  to-day.  She  had  found  that  nearly  two 
hundr<'d  were  looked  after  in  the  hospital 
every  day,  and  between  seven  and  eij,'iit  hun- 
dred outside  patients  on  the  list  of  calls,  and 
that  the  hositital  is  sujjported  by  the  benevol- 
ence alone  of  the  people  and  tliat  all  creeds 
are  welcome. 

Hotel  Dieu. 

1  took  her  next  to  Hotel-Dieu,  out  Park  ave- 
nue to  Pine  Avenue,  on  which  it  is  situated. 

"  Yes,  Mrs.  Boston,  this  is  the  oldest  of  all." 
Then.  I  told  lu*r  the  part  taken  in  it  by  that  re- 
markable woman,  Mile  .Mance,  of  whom  I  have 
told  you  in  another  part,— also  of  tlu;  inteiest 
taken  in  the  jiresent  hospital  bv  that  great 
physician,  Sir  Wm.  H.  Hinj^ston. 

Koyal  Victoria  Hospital 
was  next  visited.  This,  Mrs.  Boston  pro- 
nounced one  of  the  finest  and  best  arraufjcd 
hosi»itals  she  had  ever  seen  and  was  greatlv 
ideased  to  hear  how  that  two  men  of  heart 
and  means— Lord  Strathcona  and  Lord  Mount 
Stephen— had  built  it.  "Why,  Ruben,"  she 
said  in  her  enthusiasm,  "  Montreal  has  men 
whose  works  are  so  genuinely  good  that  all 
the  world  should  know  them  !"* 

"  Well,  my  dear  Mrs.  Boston,  I  mean  to  try, 
in  my  little  way,  to  tell  all  the  world  of  these 


Mmi 


m^m  -^.iiVAw-  w.-^mmi 


316 


The  IVandcriiig  Yankee. 


mon,  for,  as  you  say,  they  should  bo  known,  as 
an  inspiration  to  otlu'i-s.  TIk'sc  men  do  real 
Hood.  Thov  may  not  {,'""<!  down  their  poor 
workmen  inorder  to  ac«iuire  millions  to  },nve 
libraries -to  cities  that  don't  want  them,  but 
they  give  where  gifts  are  of  benetit.  Yes, 
Moiitreal  has  men  of  real  woi-tli." 

Notre  Dame  Hospital, 

on  Notre  Dame  street,  near  the  CVM.  bridge, 
was  next  visited,  then  we  were  driven  out  to 

the 

Qrey  Nunnery, 

on  I>uri'hester  str^'et,  running  to  St.  Catherine, 
beyond  Guy  street.  We  also  went  out  Dor- 
chester to 

The  Western  Hospital. 

But  of  these  I  have  before  spoken. 
"  Mr.  Ruben,"  said  Mrs.  Boston,  'I  really  um 
delighted  with  Montreal.  I  had  known 
the  citv  in  a  vague  way.  I  thought  of  it  only 
as  a  commercial  town,  and  that  is  the  way  it  is 
generally  known,  but  to-day  has  showed  me 
the  other  side  of  the  city,  and  that  side  is  good 
—all  good,  and  I  shall  ever  think  of  it,  not  as  a 
commercial,  but  benevolent  Montreal." 

While  Mrs.  Boston  was  speaking  of  the  ho3- 
pitals,  the  "  girls  "  came  in.    Miss  Iowa  asked  : 

"  Did  you  visit  the  Civil  Hospital  ?" 

"  They  were  all  civil  ?" 

"  No,  I  mean  the  one  we  are  hearing  so  much 

about  ?" 

"  Oh,  I  see,  you  mean  the  Civic  Hospital  ?" 
"  Yes,  yes,  that  is  it.      Did  you  visit  it  ?" 


The  IVandcrhig  Yankee. 


"1 " 


"  No,"  said  I,  "  owing  to  lacic  of  limo  wo 
didn't  sec  it."  I  didn't  tell  lier  thsit  we  hu  ked 
a  generation  of  time, 

*'  Mr.  Rnben,"  said  Miss  New  Orleans,  one 
day  wlien  I  was  sliowing  the  "  girls  "  around 
old  Ville-Marie  seetion,  "if  I  remember, 

The  Two  Lemoynes, 

Jean-Haptiste  and  Pierre,  who  founded  our 
eity,  came  from  Canada,  and,  I  believe,  from 
]\rontreal.      Am  I  eorreet  ?" 

"  Yes,  and  I  tan  show  you  within  a  block  of 
where  we  stand  the  site  of  their  birthi)lace," 
and,  to  her  great  delight,  I  took  her  to  the  spot 
just  east  of  LMace  Royale,  on  St.  Paul  street. 
She  made  a  note  of  it,  and  told  me  what  I  had 
not  known  before,  that  these  men,  for  nearly 
tifty  years,  were  governors  of  her  State.    First 
one,  then,  the  other  of  the  brothei-s.    Miss  Chi- 
cago spoke  up  and  said  "  Yes,  and  some  of  the 
men  who  founded    <ities   in   our  conn+ry  came 
from  here  too— IMarcpiette,  Du  Luth,  (^adilac. 
The   two   former  had  cities  named   for   th(>m, 
while  Detroit,  :Michigan  was    founded    by  the 
latter."    It  seemed  a  real  pleasure  to  Miss  Chi- 
cago to  be  able   to    show,  that   if   she   didn't 
know  Canada,  she  did  know  our  own  history. 
Wlien   I   pointed  out   to   her  where  Cadillac's 
house  stood,  at  the  corner  of  St.  Lambert  Hill 
and  Notre  Dame— and  the  site  of  Du  Luth's, 
not    far   away,  near   Place   d'Armes,  she,  too, 
made  a  note  of  it.     It  was  now  my  turn  to  be 
proud,  and  I  had  them  go  down  to  the  Bonse- 
cours  Market,  where  I  said  proud-like:  "Here, 
on   this   site,  is  where  Sir  John  Johnson   held 
peace    conferences    with    those    noted    Indian 


*"^|j 


. ,  '  ."s-,:-^' *«[!f;'~.Mi"(«F»  "*•-# 


kES95SS?i 


*'^m»s^!tmim9 


318 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


waniofH,  Teeunisch  ami  lUaiit."      Then.  I  told 
them  how  that  Tccnmseh  ami    I    had  lived  at 
various    times  in  (Mark  County.  Ohio.  :^    i?«>«>d 
uianv  years,  but  not   very  ntany  miU's.  aparl  — 
and  how  that  one  of  my  ancestors  had  attend- 
ed a  peaee  conferenci'   in   SprinRtield,  Ohio,  at 
which  Tecumseh  was  the  },neat  chief.       "  The 
Indians  came  in,"  said  my  ancestor,  "  in  },neat 
„„„il„.i.s_w<^  made  them  lay  their   arms   oat- 
side  the  council  ^n-oumls.  but  Tecumseh  refus- 
ed to  lav  down  his  tomahawk  and  carried  it  in 
with  hiiu.    We  pr(»tested.    He  claimed  :  'This. 
„iv  pipe— I  keep  my  pip«'.'  at  which  he  tilled  a 
Iniwl  arranged  in-euiously.  lighted  the  tobaeco 
and  bejian  smokiu}.-  through  the  handle  which 
was  the  stem  of  the  pipe.    We  still  protested, 
when  he  deliberately  arose,  and.  with  all  the 
power  .>f  his  strong;  arm.  threw  it   far  outside 
the  line.  then,  as  deliberately  sat  d(.wn  ajiain 
and  said  '  There  is  my  pip*'.  ^'«'t  it  '.'  "     There  is 
a  just  pride  in  beinjt  even  li'iuotely  connected 
with  one  who  had.  even  so  remotely,  to  do  with 
a  brave  man— and  Tecumseh  thoujih  a  snvaKO 
was  a  brav«>  man  and  a  {,'reat  warrior. 

It  was  now  Miss  IMiily's  turn,  and  she  said  : 
"  I  ^mess  I  have  a  little  to  say  in  this  town  too. 
Hen  Franklin  lived  here  some  where." 

••  Yes,"  said  I.  "  ho  was  at  the  Old  ChAleau 
de  Kamezav.  as  was  also  <»ue  <»f  vour  jireat. 
men.  Charles  rarroll."  1  said,  directiii};  the  last 
half  of  mv  remark  to  Miss  I{;iltiinore— "  .\nd, 
1  continui'd.  "  f.»r  that  matter  all  of  us  minht 
t  ra.e  to  Montreal  men  of  note:  for.  Miss  New 
Y..rk  .lohn  .Tac(d»  Astor  and  Washinjiton 
Irvin"  lived  here.  Doctor,  (Jeneral  Mont^mn- 
erv    TbelieNe  vou  of  Boston,  make  a  claim  for 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


;;io 


the    (Jovcrnor- 


him — and,  and  who  claims  Iienodi<t  Arnold  ? 
Don't  all  speak  at  ?Me_What,  no  one  claims 
him  !"  "No,  '  n,  v,i^-  .lo  claim  the  honor  of 
honorin},'  Majoi  Andre;'  sai.)  Miss  New  York, 
proudly.  1  f,  iii.i  that  iie  had  been  from 
Tarrvtown,  on  i."  'J<'-Uou,  wheiv  Field  had 
erected  a  monnment  to  the  Major. 

Speaking  of  the  Old  Museum  de  Ramezay. 
The  Chateau  is  under  the  supervision  of 
some  of  the  best  people  in  the  city,  and  the 
rare  collection  of  the  old  in  jdctures,  medals, 
implements  of  peace  and  war,  bo()ks,  parch- 
ments, and,  in  fact,  everything  that  j;oes  to 
make  it  unique  in  Canada,  will  interest  the  an- 
tiquarian for  hours  and  days. 

OfBoere. 
PATliON.— His    Excellency 
General. 

PRESIDENT.— Hon.  :Mr.  Justice  liabv. 

VICE-PRESIDENTS.— II.  J.  Tiffin,"  Esq.; 
W.  D.  Li-hthall,  Es.j.,  M.A.,  F.R.S.L.;  F.  W. 
Campbell,  M.  U.,  Hon.  Treasurer;  Geor;,'<'  Dnrn- 
ford,  Em\.,  Recording  Secretary;  C.  A.  Har- 
wood,  Esq.;  Mr.  Justice  Sicotle,  Rouer  Roy, 
Esq.,  K.  C.;  Louis  Laber^*',  M.  D.,  Hon.  Curii- 
tor;  R.  W.  McLachlan,  Esc].,  Corresponding;  Se- 
cretary; J.  A.  r.  Reaudry,  Esij. 

LIBRARIAN.— (Jonzalve  Desauluiers,  Es(|. 

COUNCIL.— P.  O.  Tremblay,  Escj.;  Vicomte 
de  la  Barthe,  Ludfjer  Larose.  Esq.;  (}.  Lanjilofs, 
Esc}.;  S.  M.  Baylis,  Esq.;  H.  J.  Ross.  Escj.;  J.  S. 
Brierly,  Esq.;  James  Reid.  Escj.;  E.  Ohlen.  Es(i. 

ASSISTANT  LIBRARIAN.— Thos.  O'Learv. 

LIFE  GOVERNORS.— H.  Montajrue  Allan, 
Esq.;  K.  B.  Angus,  Esij.;  Hon.  Justice  Baby, 


,  i 


ill 


li 


320 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


i  iftl! 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


?,2\ 


Robert  Blckoidike,  Esq.;  Treffld  Bcrlhiannio, 
Esq.;  Sainuol  Ciirslcy,  Esq.;  Jiiinos  Coristiuc, 
Esq.;  E.  S.  Cloustoii,  Esq.;  James  Crathorn, 
Esq.;  Hon.  G.  A.  P  uininond,  M.  E.  Davis,  Escj.; 
Hon.  L.  J.  Forgot,  George  Hague,  Esc].;  J.  IJ. 
Learmont,  Esq.;  H.  H.  Lyman,  Escj.;  H.  La- 
porte,  Es(i.;  K.  W.  ireLachlan,  Escj.;  James 
Moore,  Escj.;  Jolin  T  .Molson,  Emj.;  Robert 
Meiglian,  Es(i.;  S.  H.  (\  Miner,  Esc].;  James 
Ross,  Es(|.;  R.  Wilson  Smitli,  Escj.;  H.  Sfike- 
man,  Esq.;  S.  O.  Sliorey,  Esq.;  H.  J.  TlHin,  Esvi.; 
H.  H.  Wolff,  Es«i. 

"  Mr.  Ruben,  yot.  promised  lo  show  us  wliere 
La  Salle  lived— ^tlie  discoverer  of  our  great 
river,"  said  .Miss  St.  Louis.  '•  Vos,"  joined  in 
Miss  Iowa,  "father  told  me  <o  be  sure  to  see 
that."  Then.  I  had  to  take  tlieni  all  down  to 
the  corner  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  I'aul  street,  and 
show  them  the  '•''  •  of  La  Salle's  town    house. 

They  all  de-  "  that   when  they  returned 

home  they  won.  .  that  they  now  had  a  mis- 

sion in  life—and  that  mission  was  to  teach 
Canada  as  it  is,  and  to  disjiel  from  the  minds 
of  all  our  i»eople  that  which  they  have  long 
known 


"fWXATU    .\.     IT   INNT." 


322 


The  JVamicring  Yankee. 


Hnb  tkt  lEni"  is  IRot  ^tt. 


Tmi  Twin  MouMTAiJiJ  "T"  _ 

for  tlie  siiuplo  ivanon  that  tliorc  is  an  "end" 
just  diHcovcMcd.       It  is  the  east  eml,  the  real 

and  onl.v 

Bout  de  L'Isle. 

When  I  was  at  Ste.  Anne,  they  caUed  that 
Uout  de  risle,  and  1  talked  about  it  as  thonp;h 
it  were  the  "  real  and  onl \ ."  but  Fitz  said,  one 
da.v.  when  1  asked  if  he  knew  of  any  place  I 
had  not  se«'n.  "  Yes,  we've  not  been  down  to 
IJout  de  rish>  y»t." 

"  Von  mean  uj)  and  I've  been  there  !" 
"  No,"  said  he,  "  and  it's  down,  not  up 
is  at  the  very  east  end  of  the  Island  I" 
"  Yes,  and  how  do  you  ^oi  there  ?" 
•<  I  don't  know,  but  1  saw  a  si^n:  '  Take  any 
ear  L'oinji  east  and  po  on  untU  you  avt  to  La- 
salle    street.'      At  this  street,  the   siKU    said, 
you  come  to  the 


It 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
Montreal   Terminal   Railway, 


I  ' 


;52;! 


S:«'t  into  ii  cMi-  and  sta.v  on  until  vou  ^^cf  liicir.'' 
"Well,  thal's  easy— let's  «o  at   once."     Yuy. 
sot  his  skctcli  Look  and  we  staitcd. 

At  J.asall"  street,  I  asked  "whoso  road 
IS  this?"  hut  the  man  with  the  tickets 
said:  "you  see,  Mr.  Kowley  inside,  there,  he  is 
the  Superintendant."  I  saw  Mr.  Kowh'v,  •«  in- 
side there,"  jrave  him  Ui.v  eard  and,  as 'is  mv 
nistoin,  ran  sijnare  into  another  coincidence.'^ 
"Do  .von  know  my  brother,  Roliert.  of  Lake 
Kdward  ?"  Say,  ivad  'Th,>  Yankee  in  (J„e. 
!)('<•,'  and  t-nd  about  'steen  pai-cs  of  the  fun  I 
bad  at  IJob  Howh'y's  ^reat  tishinj-  and  hnnt- 
in^r  resort  last  fall. 

"!><)  I  know  IJol)?  Will  I  ever  forget 
Hob  and  the  •  Week  of  Sports'  he  ^ave  me  ' 
Never,  I  conldn't." 

W«dl,  John  Kowley.  and  I  were  acquainted 
iit  once,  and  he  told  me  about  the  Terminal, 
Jind  how  that  our  own  well  known  CoNniel 
Jas.  McXauKht  is  <.f  this  Companv.  This 
fact  alone  not  only  warrants  the  suc.ess  of 
the  road  but  it  speaks  volumes  for  the  road 
ilHelf,  for  if  there  is  a  New  Y(uk  luan  who 
knows  a  j,'ood  propc  riy.  and  how  to  .levelop  it 
that  man  is  the  Colonel.  ' 

Mr.  ]>.  Murphy,  of  Ottawa,  is  tin-  I'resi(h'nt: 
Mr.  H.  H.  Melville,  „f  Uoslcm.  Vice  President 
;»Hl  Mr.  .1.  V.  Mullarkey.  <,f  Montreal! 
iw  the  uptodate  :SIanaKlnK  Director,  and 
with  Mr.  .lohn  Kowley  as  Superintendent, 
this  Montreal  Terminal  is  -ninfr  <,.,  ^J 
one  of  the  j^reatest  enterprises  ^  of  the 
Island.       It    now    runs     to    Bout     de    I'lsle 


ii 


;;24 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


with  a  braneh  to  "The  Chai>el,"  and  with  its 
nil)"  miles  shortly  to  be  laid  down  in  the  city, 
and  its  line  across  the  bridj^o.  to  be  built  at 
Hout  de  risle,  and  thence  to  Joliette,  it  will 
be  one  of  the  tiuest  trolley  systems  in  the  Do- 
minion. 

To  have  missed  this  important  feature 
of  Montreal,  would  have  been  to  have 
missed  not  only  a  most  delightful  out- 
iu};,  but  a  fact  without  which  the  book 
would  have  been  incomplete— (not  that 
it  is  complete— to  tell  all  of  interest 
in  Montreal  would  take  a  whole  library).  But 
1  mustn't  stand  here  talking  about  it  for  Fitz 
is  waiting.  "  Don't  be  in  a  hurry,  now,  Fitz,^  I 
must  tell  about  the  towns  on  this  line— we'll 
get  there  in  time  for  dinner  at  Bureau's,  so 
don't  rush."      We  start  at  Lasalle  street,  in 

Maisonneuve. 

in  which  are  located  a  large  sugar  factory,  wall 
paper  factories  and  many  others. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company 

have  recentlv  acipiired  several  hundreds  of 
acres  on  which  are  to  be  erected  the  largest 
car-building  and  workshops  in  America.  Thou- 
sands of  men  will  be  employed.  The  immense 
shops  of  this  company  at  Delorimier  avenue 
will  still  be  maintained.  This  railroad  is  be- 
coming one  of  the  greatest  in  the  world.  It  is 
yearly  reaching  out  into  new  territory,  opening 
up  the  North-Weat.  giving  to  vast  wheat  lands 
an  outlet  to  the  markets,  also  making  acces- 
sible the  hundreds  of  sq"""^  mill's  «>f  coalfields 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


325 


m  that  territory.  Great  credit  is  due  to  Sir 
Tliomas  Shaughnessy  and  to  Sir  William  Van 
Ilorue  for  these  vast  strides  of  progress.  \Ve 
in  the  States  have  no  conception  of  what  is 
being  done  up  here,  where  work  is  silentlv 
going  on,  building  up  a  Dominion  that  is 
destined  to  become  a  brotherlv  rival  to  our 
J)rogressiv(>  land, 
Next  we  come  to 

Longiie  Pointe. 

It  is  liere  that  occurred  the  great  tire  at  the 
lunatic  asylum,  a  few  years  since,  at  which  so 
many  inmates  were  burned  to  death.  The  asv- 
lum  has  since  been  rebuilt  and  greatfv 
enlarged. 

Two  nulcs  further  is  the  manufacturing 
town  of  ^ 

Pointe-aux -Trembles, 
Literal  meaning  of  which  is  •'  Trembling  point," 
from  a   legendary  earthquake.       The  French 
Protestant  College  is  here  located. 

A  short  distance  beyond,  we  see  a  spur  of 
the  road  running  off  to  the  h-ft.  It  runs  out 
to  the  Shrine,  or 


AMD 

Oh  OCR, 


The  Chapel, 

whicli  has  been  the  object  of  spe(.ial  attention 
of  His  Holiness  the  Pope.  It  is  a  duplication 
of  Notre  Dame  de  Lourdcs— and.  like  the 
great  Ste.  Anne  de  HeaupiY',  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, below  Quelle. ,  is  the  objective  point  for 
thousands  of  pilgr';,i«  dining  ijio  summer. 

.lust  b<'fore  rej-.  'lin  r    nie    terminus  of  the 
road  we  come  to 


1; 


^^m 


326 


m:. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 
Bout  de  L'Isle  Far!-:. 


the  most  complete,  and,  aside  from  Mount 
Itoyal,  the  largest  park  in  the  tity.  The 
next  stop  is  the  last,  at  the  very  end— Bout 
de  risle,  where  we  find  one  of  the  happiest 
crowds  of  merry-makers  we  have  yet  found  in 
any  of  the  suburbs. 

If  I  should  put  in  all  the  sketches  Fitz 
caught  that  afternoon,  this  would  be  another 
"Sketch  Book."  I  wanted  the  Twin  :\Ioun- 
tains,  Beloeil  and  St.  Bruno,  seen  far  across 
the  St.  LawitMice,  over  the  town  of  Varennes. 
Fitz  took  it,  then  went  over  to  get  those  jolly 
singers  from  JMttsfteld,  Massachusetts,  who 
were  enlivening  the  happy  crowd  with  music 
and  song.  The  one  facing  east  was  a  real 
artist. 

^^'hen  we  were  ready  to  return  that  evening, 
after  one  of  Bur<'au's  excellent  dinners, — 3Ir. 
Rowley,  who  had  in  the  meantime  come  down 
from  the  city,  said  :  "  Rube,  you  must  not  fail 
to  com '  to  the  '  La  Presse  '  picnic  to-morrow." 

"  '  Picnic '  ?  '  La  Presse  '?   I  fail  to  grasp  !" 

"  Why,  don't  you  know  that  every  Monday 
during  .July  and  August  that  the  great  news- 
I  aper  *  La  Presse,'  gives  a  picnic  at  Bout  de 
I'lsle  Park  ':" 

"  No."  '"Well  you  and  Mr.  Fitz  Maurice  come 
down  Monday  morning  and  you  will  see  a 
sight  worth  a  long  journey  !" 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


.^o 


27 


THE  PICNIC. 


"DoNT  Loose  Mk,  IIuhk." 

Well,  Fitz  and  I  were  there.     I  wish  I  could 
give  you  even  a  faint  notion  of  that  picnic  !- 
Iwenty  long  cars  packed  with  happy,  sinmnij 
flag  flying  childr. .,  all  "goin^  to  ther  picni^  !'' 

teay-if  you  are  not  busy,  come-go  out  with 
Fitz    and    me-^no    room'?    Well,  crowd    in 
stand  up-any  way  to   g^t   there-it  will  pay' 
jou  for  the  day.      At  the  Park  it  was  just  like 

T";TI^'''  ^T'  ^"^  ^^**^"S  fly  *^«  thousand 
caged  birds     Oh,  how  happy  they  were  !    They 

danced,  and  sang  and  played  ball,  gathered 
flowers,  climbed  all  over  good  natured  Bour- 
geau  and  ate  the  six  hundred  pounds  of  bread 
and  the  barrels  of  candy  which  that  Prince  of 
Good  Mayors-rochrane~had  furnished,  as 
this  was  Mayor's  Day. 

To  see  Bourgeau,  Rodier  and  Bourdon  distri- 


if 


328 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


Tki  Lowo  Aire 

Tmc  Jmo«t  or  TT 


S5-^ 


bute  thoso  barrels  of  candy,  like  as  to  fcetling 
two  thousand  cliickens,  was  a  sij^ht  !  No 
scrambling — no  pllinfif  on  top,  but  each  one 
takinjjf  what  was  his  or  her  share,  so  gently, 
was  as  much  a  treat  as  though  we,  too,  were 
children  getting  our  share. 

Just  as  an  aside:  If  those  children  could 
vote,  Cochrane  would  have  a  life  lease  on  that 
oHice.  Then,  to  think  that  the  children  of 
^lontreal  can  have  the  fun  every  Monday. 
Each  section  of  the  city  getting  its  turn.  No 
wonder  I  can't  get  through  telling  about  this 
up-to-date  or  a  little  head  city,  now  really,  eh  ? 
Every  one  went  home  singing  the  praises  of 
the  kind  hearts  that  plan  and  carry  out  these 
children's  "icnics. 

Don't  fi  !  io  see  Bout  de  I'lsle,  for  Bout  de 
risle  is  tiie  end  of  the  Island,  as  this  sketch  is 
of  the  book 

TIIE  END. 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


329 


iHbhenba^ 


nmsli  when  you  ended  ?" 

"Then  there  wouldn't  have  been  an.v  more 
U   .a\-and  1  ni  like  some  other  people.     I  do 

.ke  to  have  the  'last  word '-and  in  this  ,-ase 
I  -uldn  t  have  the  last  word  until  the  word 
^.nne  lou  icnow  when  down  an.onu  the 
Hchoo  s,  I  ottered  pri.es  for  th,.  In^st  lettr  on 
(unada  and  I  wanted  to  «ive  the  names  of 

The  Prize  Winners. 

And  even  now  only  two  places  eame  in  time 
10  s^.t  in  this  edition-Montelair,  New  Jersev 
and  Brooklyn,  Xew  York  ' 

Mr.  John  Huoh  Koss,  the  most  expert  exp.ut 
I    could    possibly     find,    has     ffone     c-aref  illv 
hrou^i     he  125  letters    from    Montc-laii,  and 
the       0    letters    from    Principal    McAndrew's 
School,  of  Brooklyn.       He  found  some  ot  the 
ettei^  so  full  of  correct  data  on  r..nada  that 
10  could  scarcely  believe  they  had  been  writ- 
<on  by  children  of  the  United  States.     II,.  was 
tair,  as  he  knew  none  of  the  writers.       I  ,,1.,,- 
niised  one  prize  to  each  of  the  schools  I  ex!iin- 
inod,  and  also  promised    to   print  the  winninL^ 
letter,  but  in  Montdair,  three  were   so  nearly 
equal  in  merit  that   I   must  jjivo  three  prices 
and  to  the  Brooklyn  Schoo],  two  prizes.    Then' 
asain    there  were  so  many  jjood    letters-and 
these  five  only  won  by  so  slight   a   margin  or 


m 


330 


The  IVandcring  Yankee. 


fraction  of  a  margin  that  it  would  not  be  fair 
to  print  any  one  letter  as  a  sample  of  the  best. 
Here  are  the  names  of  the   three   Montclair 
children:  Norman Wai-d,  aged  eleven;  Margaret 
Boyle,  aged  twelve;  and  Bertha  Champ,  aged 
fourteen   years.      T^ie  two  Brooklyn   children 
were  Chester  Griffin  and  John  G.  Fangeman. 
They  did  not  give    their   ages.      The  writing, 
composition  and  information  given  was  really 
marvelous  for  children  so  young,  and  it  quite 
compensated  me  the  loss  of  that  dinner  to  see 
how  great  had  been  the  improvement  since  the 
day  I  had  examined  those  schools.  Especially  is 
this  true  of  Brooklyn,  where  the  knowledge  of 
Canada  was  not  very  high.      Presto,  change. 
While  they  knew'  but   little  then,  the   letters 
written  me  show  that  they  have  paid  me  the 
high  compliment  of  studying  Canada  even   to 
the  minutia.    Montclair,  as  I  have  said  before 
knew  much   of   this   country,  but   the   letters 
show  that  they  now  know  far  more.      Yes,  I 
am  delighted  with  the  letters    and  will    have 
them  bound  into  books,  to  keep  as  reminders 
of  that  tour. 

Geography. 

In  that  tour  I  found  one  groat  error  in  the 
use  of  the  geographies.  Why,  I  saw  books  that 
contained  things  cut  out  years  ago.  They 
were  so  far  behind  the  times  that  I  was  sur- 
prised that  men  wh  jse  business  it  was  to  keep 
up  with  this  age,  could  choose  books  so  old.  I 
wrote  how  the  Colonel  had  advised  Parlia- 
ment to  get  out  a  geography  that  would  tell 
what  Canada  has. 

That    was    in    print    before     I     saw    the 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


mi 


New  Elementary  Geography— gotten  out  by 
F.  E.  Grafton  and  Sons,  of  Montreal.  I'm  glad 
I  saw  it  in  time,  as  now  I  can  tell  Parliament 
that  it  need  not  get  out  a  new  work,  as  this 
covers  all  points  in  Canada  so  thoroughly  that 
even  Parliament  couldn't  improve  on  it. '  It  is 
by  far  the  best  1  have  seen,  and  should  be  in 
every  school  that  wants  to  really  know  Canada 
as  it  is. 

Bube   Finds   Fault. 

"  Rube,  now  that    you    have  seen    much  of 
Montreal  have  you  any  fault  to  find  with  it  ?" 
"  Colonel,  I'm  not    a    fault-finder;    but  if  I 
were,  I'd  say  it  was  a  grievous  one  to  pay  so 
small  wages   as    in    many    instances  are  paid 
here.     Why,  I  know  of  girls  who  have  to  walk 
—can't  afford  to  ride— two  miles,  and  are  paid 
but  11.25    per   week,    by   rich   firms— some  of 
whom  go  religiously  to  church  and  pray  for  the 
Ihe  poor  heathen  at  a  distance,  when  the  '  poor 
heathen '    is   a  hurdred   times  better  off  than 
some  of  their  own  employees.     It  is  not  right, 
it  is  downright  wicked.      I  like  money,  but  I 
hope  never  to  love  it  so  much  that  I  cannot  be 
fair  to  my  fellow  beings." 

"I  wonder  Rube  that  some  of  the  good 
papers  don't  take  up  such  things.  They  would 
do  far  more  good  than  to  be  quarrelling  over 
creeds  or  '  the  right  way  to  be  good." 

"  Yes,  Colonel,  this  is  a  grave  subject.  The 
young  are  often  driven  to  crime  by  those  whose 
money  is  given  to  build  churches  to  lessen 
crime.  I  tell  you.  Colonel,  in  that  great  here- 
after, every  dollar  ground  from  the  poor  will 
have  to  be  paid  back  with  appalling  interest. 


The  JVatidcriug  Yankee. 


But  I  don't  dare  get  on  this  subject,  Colonel. 
I  fear  I  may  say  too  much  ;  for  I  do  feel  deeply 
for  those  who  have  to  struggle  for  the  pittance 
too  often  paid  them  by  those  who  live  not 
only  in  comfort,  but  prodigal  extravagance,  by 
reason  of  the  money  held  back  from  the  work- 
er, simply  because  the  necessity  of  the  worker 
compels  him  to  allow  it." 

How  to  Oo  to  New  York. 

One  daj',  shortly  after  my  return  from  the 
"  School  trip,"  the  Colonel  asked:  "  Rube,  how 
did  you  go  to  New  York  from  here?"  I  was 
so  surimsed  at  the  8imi)licity  of  the  question 
that  I  could  only  look  at  the  Colonel  and 
smile.  "  How  did  I  go  to  New  York  from 
Montreal  ? '  Why  ask  such  a  (luestion  when 
you  know  as  well  as  I  that  the  New  York 
Central  has  a  line  running  between  the  two 
points  ?" 

"  Well,  Rube,  you  make  so  many  odd  and  un- 
accountable moves  that  it's  hard  to  tell  how 
you'd  get  from  any  one  point  to  another.  I 
know  as  well  as  you,  that  it's  the  only  road  to 
take  when  you  can  get  it;  but  I  didn't  know 
that  you  would  have  thought  of  it." 

"  Thank  you  for  your  good  opinion;  but  I 
know  the  *  ways  and  means,'  as  well  as  the 
other  fi'llow,  and  he  always  takes  the  N.Y.C. 
whenever  he  wants  to  get  any  place  in  projK'r 
style  and  comfort.  The  trip  through  the  Adi- 
londai'ks  is  worth  the  whole  fare.  Speaking 
of  fare,  that's  the  only  objection  to  the  road, 


The  IVaudcriiig  Yankee. 


they  made  me  pay.  Wouldn't  even  give  me 
preachers'  rates." 

"  Yon  get  preachers'  rates!     That's  good  !" 

I  sometimes  think  the  Colonel  and  I  are  too 
well  acquainted. 

"  Rube,  did  you,  as  usual,  meet  a  lot  of 
celebrities  on  the  way  down  ?'' 

"Well,  no.  not  a  lot  of  them;  but  several, 
There  was  the  genial  Mayor  of  Inverness,  out 


.IKA\   (iKKAIiDV. 

in  the  Townships.  Uv  and  his  daiighter  were 
Roing  to  New  Y(»rk  to  tak«'  sfcamcr  for  EuroiM', 
as  the  St.  T.awrence  was  not  yet  open  for 
business.  Then  I  nn't  on*-  of  Mathews'  (Vlcbri 
lies,  .lean  (lerardy.  who  had  jusl  been  taking 
part  in  a  Montreal  conc<Mt.  Vou  know  of  him. 
He  is  one  of  the  greatj'st  of  cello  playei-s— 
as  w«'ll  as  a  good  f<'llow  to  travel  with.  You 
know  I  always  said,  the  pleasuiv  of  travel  is 
tho  p.'op!c  you  meet,  and  to  (ravel  as  om  nin 
over  ^'lis  road  is  the  iH?rfection  of  going.". 


li 


334 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


r 


He  Didn't. 

On  page  253  I  say  that  Richard  A.  Waite  de- 
signed the  new  Victoria  Bridge.  I  was  given 
the  wrong  information.  It  was  designed  by 
the  Engineer  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
Company,  Mr.  Joseph  Hobson,  the  man  who 
designed  and  built  the  great  iron  tubular  tun- 
nel at  Port  Huron,  which  as  a  fine  piece  of  en- 
gineering skill  was  even  greater  than  the 
bridge.  This  tunnel  is  over  6,000  feet  long, 
and  with  its  approaches,  is  about  three  miles 
in  length.  It  is  an  iron  tube,  20  feet  in  dia- 
meter. The  iron  work  of  the  bridge  was  mad*; 
by  the  Detroit  Bridge  and  Iron  Works.  It  is 
a  pin  constructed  truss  bridge. 

The  tourist  sliould  not  fail  to  be  driven 
across  the  Victoria  Bridge.  The  view  back 
over  the  City  and  Mountain  is  very  fine  in- 
deed. 


li 


The  Mountain. 
The  "  Mountain "  I  have  often  mentioned, 
but  have  not  described.  It  is  a  long,  oval, 
abrupt  at  the  east  and  running  gradually  west 
to  the  level.  It  is  back  from  the  river  some 
over  a  mile.  It  is  three  miles  long  and  about 
two  miles  wide.  Its  three  highest  points  are 
GOO,  730  and  739  feet. 

Build  a  Konument  to  the  Heroes. 
On  the  "  Ottawa  River  Trip,"  I  8i)eak  of  Ca- 
rillon as  being  the  point  at  which  Dollard 
made  the  heroic  fight  against  the  Indians. 
Hince  writing  that  sketch  I  have  had  the  good 
fortune  to  get  in  communication  with  Father 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  ;],•};•; 

John  C.  Bropliy,  of  St.  John  Seminary,  Brigh- 
ton, Mass.      He  has  made  a  long  study  of  this 
question,  having  searclied  out  all  the  data  p.*r- 
taining  to  it.      This  search   not   only  covered 
data  to  be  found  in  Canada,  but  extended  to 
the  archives  in  London,  and    his    conclusions 
put   CH)ncisely  are   these  :  "  The  reasons  which 
convince  me  that  the   battle   of   DoUard  Des 
Ormeaux  was  waged  at  the  place  on  the  Ot- 
tawa River,  now  called  Carillon,  may  be  sum- 
marized as  follows  :  The  battle  ground  (1)  was 
one  day's  journey  by  canoe  from  Ste.  Anne  de 
Bellevue,  (2)  at  the  foot    of    the    Kapids,  no 
portage  having   been   made,  (3)  at  the  •  ^ndez- 
vous  of  the  Iroquois,  naturally  after  the  last 
rapids  had  been  run.  These  details  lit  Carillon 
and  Carillon  only.      The  exact  spot  where  the 
old  fort  stood,  cannot  be  determined  at  pre- 
sent.  I  hope  to  discover  among  the  first  maps 
made  of  the  river,  this  spot.      The  main  point 
to  determine,  however,  was  the  place,  and  I 
am  fully  convinced  that  Carillon  is  where  was 
fought  the  battle  that  saved  Vilh'  Marie." 

Again  I  urge,  children  of  Canada  build  for 
this  youth  a  monument.  Already  the  children 
of  my  own  country  say  they  too  want  to  help 
to  build  it.      All  who  love  heroism  may  help. 


33G 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


'Rube's  artists. 


'A 

} 

^^ 

" 

.    \^) 

I 

>^( 

'I 

'S^ 

w 

When  tli(»  "fiiHw"  \vc'i<'  licrc.  Miss  Cincinnati 
asked  ono  day  :  "  Mr.  Kuben,  who  is  going  to 
illustrate  .vour  book?" 

"Ask,  rather,  who  isn't!" 

''  Why  are  there  so  many  artists  ?"  Then  I 
told  Iier  of  (lie  various  ones  who  were  at  work 
on  it  : 

Mr.   Henii  Julien. 

"There's  Henri  Juli'  n,  one  of  the  best  black 
and  white  artists  in  the  country,  and  by  the 
wav,  a  man  whose  life  story  would  fill  a  book. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


He  was  born  in  Paris,  came  to  America  when  a 
child,  In  1806,  he  was  in  tlie  Fenian  Raid;  in 
1870,  or  thereabonts,  was  one  of  the  Moan  ted 
Police  who  brought  under  subjection  th"  lu- 


ll en  lii  .lUMKN. 


(Ily  A.  (!.  Uiiuey.) 


dians  of  the  North-West.  In  lS8r.,  he  was  in 
the  Kiel  Kebellion,  ostensibly  as  an  artist,  but 
did  his  part  in  pntting  it  down.  lie  knew 
Kiel  well,  even  before  that  time.     \\\n  wonder- 


338 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


fill  riding,  wliicli  he  learned  on  the  plains,  made 
of  him  a  fast  friend  of  William  Cody 
("Buffalo  Bill").  He  has  always  taken  an 
interest  in  military  affairs,  and  is  a  life  mem- 
ber of  the  noted  De  Salaberry  Guards.  He  is 
the  champion  barbott  fisher  of  Canada,  and 
friend  of  the  celebrated  author  and  flsher, 
E.  T.  D.  Chambers,  of  Quebec.  He  is,  more- 
over, a  violinist  of  much  ability,  and  an  actor 
as  well  as  artist.  It  is  his  artistic  worth, 
however,  that  has  gained  for  him  his  fame. 
He  has  been  offered  a  fabulous  salary  to  go  to 
New  York,  also  an  offer  from  Australia;  but 
he  loves  Canada  too  well  to  be  tempted.  I 
might  go  on  and  tell  how  that  he  refused  a 
nomination  for.  member  of  Parliament  and 
many  other  honors;  but  he  is  modest  and  may 
not  want  me  to  tell  you  too  much  !" 

"Well,  he  certainly  is  a  versatile  genius." 
said  Miss  Francisco. 


Mr.  A.  O.  Bacey. 

"  Next,  Mr.  A.  G.  Bacey,  who—"  "  Hlustrat- 
ed  *  The  Yankee  in  Quebec '  for  you,"  broke  in 
Miss  Cincinnati  —  "  And,"  added  Miss  New 
York,  "  has  made  both  sides  of  the  sea  laugh 
over  his  *  Englishman  In  Canada,'  which,  by 
the  way,  has  done  more  toward  taking  out  of 
the  minds  of  the  world  the  notion  of  *  CoM 
Canada,'  than  anything  ever  printed. 

"  Some  one  sent  me  a  copy  of  those  cartoons, 
and  I  don't  know  why,  but  it  changed  my 
whole  notion  of  this  country.  If  the  Gov- 
ernment should  send  out  a  million  copies  of 
those  cartoons  it  would  do  more  good  than  all 


The  IVaiidcriiig  Yankee. 


339 


the  prosy  volumes  they  could  print.      People 
think  of  Canada  as  cold  and  bleak— those  car- 


A.   G.    RACEY. 


(By  K.  O.  MathewB.) 


toons  would  laugh  away  that  thought  and  the 
world  would  soon  think  of  Canada  as  we  find 
it— a  country  full  of  resource,  and  enjoyable 
beauty." 

Mr.  B.  O.  Mathews. 

"  Then  there's  R.  O.  Mathews,  one  of  the 
coming  artists  of  Canada.  He  is  probably  one 
of  the  best  in  his  line— and  his  line  is  in 
*  Celebrities,'      He   has  characteristically  pic- 


340 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


tUHMl  more  noted  actors  and  mnsicians  than 
any  artist  in  Montreal.  His  fortlicomin}:  boolc 
of  'Celebrities'  is  awaited  with  nnich  interest.  I 
pi-edict  that  the  time  will  come  when  *  R.G.M.' 
on  a  picture  will    ensure   that   picture   beiDj» 


H.    (i.    MATHEWS. 


(By  H.  Julien.) 


hnnj;   ainonjj;     the  choice    collections  of    this 
couuirv." 

"  Mr.  Kuben,  you  surprise  me,"  said  Misa 
Philadelphia.  "  You  are  continually  tellinj?  us 
about  artists,  sinjijers  and  men  of  worth  in 
uuiuy  lines.     Why,  Canada  isn't  at  all  what  I 


The  IVandcrin^ir  Yankee. 


341 


thoufrhi;  it  was.     It  is  dimMvnt  in  every  wav! 
Are  any  more  of  ^voui-  artists  Canadians  ?" 

Mr.  John  Hugh  Ross. 

" '  More/  ?  why,  if  my  boolv  juoves  of  wortli, 
I  must  tl.ank  Jolm  II„frh  Roh^  fov  it,  and  he  is 
another  Canadian." 

"  How  odd  !"  said  Miss  New  Y«uk.  -  Do  yon 
know  that  we  have  a  John  l£„jrh  I{<,ss.  Ho  is 
the  artist  wlio  mad('    '  The    Wild    Flowers  of 


JOHN  Huciii  lioss. 

America,'  the  finest  work    ever   done    in    any 

'T*7. \?''''^  ""'*•"    "  ^'*'«'"  «'«"*  ^^"  the  ,dri;, 
Ihat  IS  the  most  perfect  book  of  flowers  '" 
"^^«'li,  hulies,"  said  I,  "it's  too  bad  to  take 
away  from  '  us,'  this  artist  of  whom  vou  are 
HO  proud;  but  I  must  do  it.     John  llujih  lioss. 
the  man  who  did    that  j?reat    work,  is    not  a 
Yankee,  but  u  Montreal  man,  and  the  one  who 
has  so  greatly  JnWped  me  in  making  mv  maps 
and  pointinji  out  to  n,e  what  is  rcallv"  worth 
seeing  m  this  city." 


342 


The  IVandcriug  Yankee. 


1 1 


"Oh,  that  can't  be— everybody  at  home 
thinks  he  is  one  of  our  artists." 

" '  Everybody  at  home'  must  at  once  lose 
liim,  for  he  is  a  Canadian."  But  they  could 
hardly  be  convenced — as  they  had  long  thought 
of  him  as  "  ours." 

"  Do  you  remember,  ladies,  the  book  that  we 
saw  at  the  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  showing  the 
pictures  of  the  old  residences  and  buildings  of 
Montreal  ?  Well,  that  was  t'ie  work  of  this 
same  artist.  In  that  work  he  han  saved  for 
time  the  *  old '  of  Montreal,  which  would  have 
been  lost  but  for  him.  The  accuracy  of  this 
man  is  marvelous.  His  home,  at  G13  Cadieax 
street,  is  a  very  museum  of  valuable  data.  I 
never  wanted  f oi;  a  rare  bit  of  information,  but 
he  could  find  it  for  me.  He  is  a  designer  as 
well  as  an  artist.  Here  is  the  key  to  the  back 
ground  of  the  picture  for 

Titled  Montreal, 

which  he  designed.  It  is  an  illustrated  st^ ;  7 
without  words.  At  the  top  you  see  T  J 
Strathcona  and  Lord  Mount  Step'^^^n.  Tc  me 
left  of  the  latter  is  Mount  Stephen,  a  peak  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  named  for  him.  To  the 
right  of  Lord  Strathcona,  is  Mount  Donald, 
named  for  him.  Between  the  two  is  the  Royal 
Victoria  Hospital,  the  gift  of  the  two.  Be- 
neath is  seen  Mount  Royal,  which  is  part  of 
the  title  c'  "sen  by  Sir  Donald  A.  Smith,  when 
he  was  mu^e  a.  peer — '  Strathcona  and  Mount 
Royal' — cut  into  the  mountain,  is  old  Fort 
Garry,  at  Winnipeg,  with  which  Lord  Strath- 
cona was  so  long  connected. 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


343 


344 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  Sir  Tait  and  Sir  Lacoste  are  of  the  Law— 
beneath  them  is  the  seat  of    law  in   the  Do- 
minion—the Parliament  Building  at  Ottawa. 
Sir  Wm.  Kingston  has    long  been   connected 
with  the  great  Hotel  Dieu  Hospital— see  that 
building  beneath  his  picture.      Sir  Van  Home 
and  Sir  Shaughnessy  are  at  the  V„>ad  of   the 
railways  of  Canada— to  the  left  of  the  former 
is  seen  Windsor  Station— to  the  right  of  the 
latter  is  Place  Viger  i-tiition,  and  beneath  the 
two  is  the  great  bridge  at  Lachine.      Typical 
throughout.    Here  is  another  specimen  of  his 
versatility.    A  party  of  us  went  out  on  a  fish- 
ing pT?d  camping  excursion.      The  first  night 
out  we  camped  on  a  stream,  and  fish  was  not 
o-trything  we  fo«ind  in  that  locality.       The 
man  from  Jersey  said  it  made  him  think  of  his 
dear  old  home.    We  sang  songs  till  late  in  the 
night.       We  sang  the  Canadian  Boat  Song. 
The  next  morning  the  man  from  Jersey  said  he 
had  dreamed  that    song  all    night   long,  had 
dreamed,  not  so  much  the  words,  but  the  notes. 
When  I  asked  Ross  to  illustrate  that  dream  he 
gave  me  this,  and  the  man  from  Jersey  said, 
*Ah,  how  true  to  life!'     Yes,  ladies,  we  would 
gladly  claim    so  versatile  a  genius." 

"  The  great  popularity  of  '  The  Wild  Flowers 
of  x\merica '  may  be  known  when  I  tell  you 
that  as  many  as  ten  million  sets  were  sold," 

Mr.   George  M.   Leonard. 

''  Have  you  no  Yankees  at  all  on  your  list  ?" 
asked  Miss  Baltimore. 

"  One,  only,  and  he  is  a  native  of  your  city, 
George  M.  Leonard." 


:^r^^«F 


iUR^  ilitr< 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


345 


^    i^ 


Ji^!ii 


346 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"That's  another  familiar  name,"  said  Miss 
New  York,  «  but  I  won't  claim  him,  lest  you 
say  he,  too,  is  a  Canadian.  There  was  one  of 
that  name  on  the  New  York  Press.  I  used  often 
to  see  his  pictures,  and  quite  enjoyed  his  origi- 
nality." 

"This  time  you  are  right.  He  is,  the  same 
artist  you  remember  as  on  the  Press." 


GEORGE   M.   LEONARD. 

"  Where  is  lie  now;  come  up  to  Canada  ?" 

"  No,  he  is  in  Hacken8a<*k." 

"  Hackensack  what  ?"  (Miss  Iowa  asked 
this,  the  rest  all  knew.) 

"  Why,  the  only.  There  is  but  one  Hacken- 
sack, in  all  the  world,  and  it  is  in  New  Jersey, 
and  there  young  T^rf^onard  has  his  studio,  lie 
is  not  only  an  illustrator,  but  does  good  work 
in  oil  and  water  colors." 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  347 

Mr.  James  PitzMaurice. 

nie     j^it^    yo„  j^j.^,  always  giving  us  ^»      Sho 

Homd.ow  ran  to  slang-regardle's ;      '  '' 

ii«'  IS  a  clever  young  English  artist    who 

- Hs^Fi/ V'  '^^  '^^^^^*  ^^^  a^numb^r  of  'yea^: 

ou'm^^  ^"«  ^""  "^'-;  but  hi  has 

he    rtn^wn  f      ?  ^''  '-'^"''^  '^•*^'  bj  which 

f.J%'^"^^"  ^'■''•»  ^'^r«  to  Vancouver.      Ho  is 

l^ke  Juhen  .n  that  the  wild  life  of  the  prair  e 


JAMES   FITZMACIilcE. 

round  him  bv  acculent,  and  soon  learned  his 
nb.hty  as  a  ready  sketcher.     A.Nhen  vou  see     s 


348 


The  Wandering  Yankee. 


"  How  does  he  sketch  ?"  asked  Miss  New  Or- 
•  leans,  who  had  made  great,  but  fruitless  effort, 
to  carry  away  Canada  in  her  sketch  book. 
"  We  go  out  on  a  trip,  I  see  what  I  want  and 
say: '  Fitz,  I  want  that'— and  next  day  he  gives 
it  to  me— so  much  like  what  I  saw  that  I  can  In- 
stantly recognize  the  place  or  person— and 
that,  too,  from  memory  only.  He  seldom 
takes  a  note, — carries  it  all  in  memory— oh,  I 
tell  you,  Fitz  is  clever." 

"  He  must  be  !"  replied  the  wanted-to-be- 
artist,  «  Why,  I  can't  even  now  tell  what  I've 
sketched.  Can't  tell  whether  it's  a  Canadian 
habitant  or  one  of  our  levee  darkies  i  was  try- 
ing to  draw;  and  yet  I  was  looking  at  the  ob- 
jects in  point  all  the  while.  A  whole  book  full 
of  things  and  people  that  might  be  taken  for 
anything  in  the  world  but  for  the  things  I  was 
looking  at." 

"  No  use  to  try,  Miss,  unless  one  have  talent 
—then  one  don't  have  to  try,  it's  natural— and 
when  one  is  natural  then  one  is  a  genius.  Fitz 
don't  have  to  try." 

"  Fitz  has  recently  been  added  to  the  staflf  of 
The  Moon"—"  Oh,  girls,  how  nice,  he's  going  to 
be  the  '  Man  in  the  Moon  '  "—and  Miss  Iowa 
seemed  real  happy  because  she  said  that  *  Fitz' 
seemed  '  one  of  us,'  'Cause  he's  western,'— 
I  had  to  tell  her  that  this  particular  Moon 
wasn't  the  other  Moon.  This  one  is  that  great 
satirical  weekly  that  is  bound  to  make  a  regu- 
lar Life  success  here  in  Canada.  It's  a  new 
Moon,  but  a  very  full  Moon— full  of  just  what 
Canada  has  long  needed  in  a  weekly.  You 
may  know  how  wise  is  the  management  from 


The  Wandering  Yankee.  349 

ntfl?"^,/^^*  ^''^^^^  '^  ^^«  t^ken  two  of  my 
artists,  Racey  and  Fitz  Maurice  " 

The  "  girls  "  seemed  delighted  witli  the  pros- 

artists  I  wonder  what  they  will  say  of  Mr. 
Ruben's  opinion  on  what  they  knew  of  the 
history  geography  feid  ice  "  of  Canada.  To 
be  real  fair  to  them,  however,  I  will  say  that 
hi  the  time  they  left  the  Dominion,  they  knew 

fn^  7Z  *''''n^^'"  *'"^  '^'^''    '^'^'^  ^«  noth- 
ing  that    will     so    quickly   and     materially 

change  wrong  notions  as  travel,  and  few  coun^ 

tries  there  be    about    which    more  change  of 

«  */r,?  ''  T^^^    *^^"    ^^»^^^-      80,    dear 
girls'  of  all  the  schools  of  the  United  States 

Lf«.  'i..^    ^f  convinced  that  you  will  enjoy 
the  "righting,"  you  need  but  to  read  of  the  fun 

^^'to^ii'^;;^^^^-'^^-'"-^"--^^^^^^ 

THE  WANDERING  YANKEE. 


THERE  ARE  OTHERS. 


i',  dea.-  reader,  you  have  found  any  pleasure  in  my  wanderings,  I 
would  be  delighted  to  have  you  go  with  the  Colonel  and  me  on 
ihose  hapr  go  lucky  trips  we  took  in  and  about  Quebec,  of  which 
I  have  told  in  "  The  Yankee  in  Quebec."  Some  of  the  great  men 
of  the  world  have  said  they  were  pleased  with  my  story  of  the  Old 
Capital.  Roosevelt,  Lord  Dufferin,  Lord  Strathcona,  Senator- 
Proctor  and  many  others  have  written  personal  letters  of  com- 
mendation, while  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales,  through  Sir 
Arthur  Bigge,  have  kindly  mentioned  the  book,  and  the  pleasure  it 
gave  them. 

And,  while  speaking  of  books,  "  My  Friend  Bill,"  has  been  com- 
mended almost  extravagantly.  One  m.ra«ne  ('  The  Book  World') 
^aid  of  It  :-"  It  is  as  pure  in  tone  as  Holmes'  Breakfast  Table 
Ser.es,  and  as  tender  ..  the  choicest  parts  of  Charles  Dickens' 
writings.  It  is  the  best  book  of  light  fiction  we  have  ever  read  " 
Wm.  Jennings  Bryan,  in  the  "Commoner."  says:  "My  Friend 
BUI      IS  a  great  story  with  a  purpose." 

An  editor  of  a  great  daily,  speaking  of  it.  said  :  "  There  is  a  vein 
of  ger  ane  humor  running  through  the  book,  and  with  all  it  is  so 
full  of  sweet  homely  touches  that  we  feel  it  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  every  young  man  in  the  land.  It  would  be  to  them  an  inspira- 
tion. The  book  is  so  fascinating,  jt  is  hard  to  lay  it  aside  when 
once  ,t  IS  begun.  A  child  could  enjoy  it-while  a  member  of  our 
family,  eighty-four  years  old,  has  already  read  it  twice  through. 
We  would  feel  that  we  had  done  the  world  a  favor  if  we  could  ^y 
that  which  would  make  readers  for  '  My  Friend  Bill.'  " 

But  what  to  me  is  more  pleasing  than  the  letteri  of  the  great 
are  the  onea  written  me  by  those  whose  lot  in  life  has  not  been' 
BO  rosy.  To  have  them  write  :  "  Your  story  has  made  my  life  hap 
pier"  IS  far  sweeter  than  high  commendation  of  it,  as  a  literarv 
production. 

Should  you  not  be  able  to  find  "  The  Yankee  in  Quebec  "  or  "  Mv 
friend  Bill "  at  your  booksellers,  they  may  be  had  from  the  Emei- 
^on  Press,  of  120  Liberty  street.  New  York,  and    132    Peel    street 
Montreal. 

"  The  Yankee  in  Quebec,"  262  pages,  illustrated  :  by  mail.  pap. , 
bound,  M  cents;  cloth,  8U  cents. 
"  My  Friend  Bill."  340  pages,  illustrated  :  by  mail,  in  cloth,  »1.1(> 


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